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MEMOIR

OF

RICHARD WILLIAMS,

SURGEON :

OATECHIST TO IHE PATAGOXIAX JHSSIOXARY SOCIETY IN TEEEA DEL FUEGO.

BY

JAMES HAMILTON, D.D.

ACTHOR or "life IS EARNEST." "tHE MOCNT OF OLIVES." " ON THE WILLOWS." "THANKFULNESS." "LIFE OF LADY COLQUBOUN." "royal PREACHER." "tHE LAMP AND THE LANTERN," ETC.

NEW YORK: EGBERT CARTER & BROTHERS,

N o. 2 8 5 B R O A D W A Y. 185-^.

'v-/

PEEFACE.

Had the engagements of the Rev. WilHam Arthur allo^yed. him to undertake the compila- tion of the following Memoii', the public would have received from his hand a missionary biography as instructive, if not as excitiiig, as The Successful Merchant. But when Mr Arthur felt constrained to decline the task, the present Editor ventured to attempt it, in tlie belief that, under the most ordinary treatment, the materials placed at his disposal could scarcely fail to be useful.

The circumstance that Mr Williams belonoed to a branch of the evangelical church entirely distmct from his biographer's denomination, has not been felt as any emoarrassment in the progress of the work. A man does not repu-

VI PREFACE.

diate his birthplace when he receives the " freedom " of other cities ; and the second home which the Anthor has found in manv a Christian community, has not lessened his affection to his own Mount Zion. On the other hand, literary trusteeship is surely con- sistent with ecclesiastical integrity ; and that writer must be very distrustful of his own sense, or his own honesty, who is afraid that the one will interfere with the other.

For ample details regarding the Patagonian Mission, and for an account of Captain Gar- diner and other ipembers of the expedition, the reader is referred to Hoj^e Deferred, not Lost; a Narrative of Missionary Effort in South America, by the Rev. George Paken- ham Despard, Honorary Secretary of the Pata- gonian Missionary Society. To Mr Despard the best thanks of the Editor are due, for repeated and kind communications during the preparation of the following pages.

CONTENTS.

PAOR

CHAPTER I.

EARLY DAYS

CHAPTER II.

THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS ^

CHAPTER III.

CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS . • • 31

CHAPTER IV. 49

CHAPTER V.

THE MISSION

THE VOYAGE . ~ ^^

CHAPTER VI.

90 FUEGIA

VUl CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

FIRST TOILS , 121

CHAPTER VIII.

NEW TRIALS 153

CHAPTER IX.

SICKNESS AND FAMINE 199

CHAPTER X.

COXCLUSION 2*7

CHAPTER I.

Eemember not the faults

Aud frailty of my youth : Ilemeiiiher not how ignorant I liave been of thy truth.

Nor after my deserts Let me thy mercy find : But of thine own benignity, Lord, have me in thy mind.

Psalm XXV. 6. — Sternhold.

The Sabbath was too often spent in the study of Virgil and Horace. But the later hours of his evenings, which were not dedi- cated to amusement, seem to have been laudably employed in storing his mind with classical aud general knowledge. — Memoirs of Dr Claudius Buclianan.

KicHARD Williams was the second son of Mr Rice Williams, of Dursley, Gloucestershire, and was born there on the 15tli of May 1815.

From the first he evinced great tenderness of feeling ; and very early, he exhibited that ardent and affectionate disposition which distinguished liim through life. But as he grew from infancy to boyhood, there were frequent outbreaks of a passionate temper, and his strong determination n mounted to obstinacy. He gave no indication of piety ; but in the transparency and truthfulness of his character might be perceived the germ of future excellence. For if little can be hoped from a childhood where deceit is the constitutional sin, it is seldom that the boy attains to nothing noble, who, like Washington, " cannot tell a he."

Richard's first school was in Yorkshire ; but he was soon brought bac]c to Dursley, and placed under the care of the Rev. John Glanville, now the much-esteemed minister of Kingsland Tabernacle,

4 EARLY DAYS.

near Bristol. Mr Glanvillo says, " I watched liim closely, inasmuch as I thought I saw something in him which seemed to distinguish him from the mass of common boyhood. This induced me to give special attention to him, and, as far as I was able, to bring out and direct his powers. There was a character about him, even then, which indicated

good in the future He had mind, — not very

well balanced, nor always easily controlled, but inquiring, earnest, persevering, and determined to improve. He was diligent and painstaking in whatever engaged his attention or suited his tastes. His quickness and thoughtfulness shewed that he had abilities, which only required to be guided into a proper channel, to make him a useful man. Ho was intended and educated for secular employ, and he had an encouraging prospect before him, and many facilities for obtaining worldly prosperity. But he soon manifested a distaste for business ; it was too monotonous and mechanical ; he wanted somethino; more exciting and intellectual. I was called upon to use my influence with him for the purpose of urging him to throw his energies more fully into the duties of his trade. This 1 did, both by writing and speaking ; but it was of no use : he would be a doctor, and not a plane-manufacturer. All the money he could procure, and all the hours he could spare, were given to studies bearing on the medical profession. At length, he resolved to leave business, and sacrifice the solid gain for what

EARLY DAYS.

appeared to his friends the doubtful success of a professional course ; and, in directing his attention to surgery, he had to encounter many difficulties, and to work against all sorts of disadvantage."

We have alwavs regarded it as the heroic inci- dent in the history of the lamented Dr Hope, of London, that, with a strong repugnance to medical studies, but in deference to a father's wishes, ho not only selected medicine as his pursuit, but prose- cuted it so vigorously as to distance all his coevals. Gladly would we have recorded the converse achievement in the outset of our own hero's career: for we know not any finer feature of character than jin intense dutifulness, nor any sublimer incident than the self-sacrifice to which dutiful feeling has ])rompted. At such noble acts of self-conquest we shall not arrive till somewliat later in this narra- tive ; and meanwhile we must describe the subject of our biography as he was, and which is much the same as other ardent and impulsive young men have been.

An uncle in Westminster- had acquired a reputa- tion in making carpenters' planes, and his thriving business he bequeathed to his nephew, on condition tliat the profits of the first ten years should be shared witli his sisters. It was a kind arrangement, and gave the young man a good opportunity to make his own fortune, and to provide for his father's family. But he had other aspirations. His oWcr brother voyaged betwixt England and

b EARLY DAYS.

India as the surgeon of the Walmer Castle and the Oiven Glendower; and Richard, too, must needs be a surgeon. In his medical mania it is Hkely that he was haunted by the brilUant precedent of the Hunters, and, with youthful enthusiasm, he would recall the example of the young journeyman who quitted the carpenter's bench to become the prince of anatomists, and the collector of a world-famed museum. But Rheece and Richard Williams were not destined to repeat the romance of William Hunter and his brother John. Rheece died at Madras, a generous and noble-hearted young man ; and for Richard, God had provided some better thing than scientific reputation.

This professional bias was aided by a strong turn for letters. Our friend delighted in reading books, and sometimes dreamed of making them. And in a learned pursuit he doubtless reckoned on a large amount of literai'y leisure. This is frequently a mistake. A clergyman without a congregation, a barrister without briefs, and a physician without patients, have abundance of leisure ; but, in that case, there is great danger of their ceasing to be literary. On the other hand, a minister who enters heartily into his work, a lawyer or a doctor who prospers in his practice, has as little time to spare for his own special likings as a manufacturer or a merchant; and, when the daily demand on his energies is answered, we question if he will retain an equal amount of zest and spirit. In other

EARLY DAYS.

words, should any of our readers be employed in makint; planes, or in selling or using them, and should they at the same time be sighing after better opportunity to read great authors, — we know not any road more royal than their present calling. Most likely, even now it allows them an hour or two for mental improvement or intellectual relaxa- tion ; and, if they are diligent in their business, there is no more legitimate way of employing their savings than in purchasing instalments of leisure for their favorite pursuits.

By great exertions, Mr Williams accomplished a medical curriculum. He studied at University College, London, and at the London Hospital; and having been initiated in the practical details of his profession by a cousin in Oxfordshire, he Avas able to pass his examination in May 1841, when twenty- six years of age. For some time he acted as assist- ant to various medical gentlemen at Norwich and elsewhere ; and, eventually, his brother-in-law and sister, Mr and Mrs Hill, being resident in Burslem, Staffordshire, sent him an invitation to come and settle beside them. That invitation he accepted; and, by the success with which his first cases were treated, he soon attracted notice, and became a popular practitioner, with extensive employment. For, with an irreproachable character, passionately addicted to the noble science which was now his calling, carrying a prepossession in his pleasant countenance and gentle manners, prompt, punctual,

8 EARLY DAYS.

and affectionately interested in his patients, and, in a profession humane and generous beyond all others, distinguished by his liberality and dis- interestedness,— it is not wonderful that he soon became a favorite, and saw opening before him a field of abundant occupation.

During all this interval, however, there was no religion in his virtue. Warm-hearted and manly, he was not devout; and, amidst all his solicitude for the bodily health of his neighbours, the salvation of their souls or of his own had never cost him a thought. With an ardent and enthusiastic temper- ament, he had no love for his heavenly Friend, and no sympathy Avith that philanthropy which seeks the eternal welfare of its objects.

One Lord's Day, a friend returning from public worship called on him, and found him in his surgery reading a newspajicr. His friend asked him if this were a right employment of God's day. There was something of rebuke in the reply : " Were mv mind, like yours, satisfied that Christianity is true, I would embrace it with all my soul, and I would live accordingly." Ilis visitor felt that he was sincere, and could only regret that, to a nature so energetic, and, in many respects, so ingenuous, the gospel was nothing more than a cunning fable or a cabalistic formula.

CHAPTEE II.

f I]C ^(ginning ,of gclfcr gaiis.

Have mercy, Lord, on me. As thou wert ever kind ; Let me, opprest with loads of guilt, Thy wonted mercy fiml.

Wash off my foul offence, And cleanse me from my sin ; For I confess my crime, and see How great my guilt has been.

Psalm li. 1, 2, 3. — Bvady and Tate.

When the Lord Jesus first revealed himself to me, he did not reason with me about truth and error ; but he attacked me like a warrior, and felled me to the ground by the power of his arm. — Van- der Kemp.

The most eventful date in a human history is the commencement of its heavenward career ; and, provided it is really to the Better Country that tlio pilgrim is travelling, it is immaterial whether hope or fear had the greatest influence on his outset, " Wherever it begins, every conversion ends in Christ. Some, like Matthew Henry and Henry Martyn, may have made the transition, they scarce know how : but all agree to approve of God's "way of saving sinners by Jesus Christ alone ; all desire to advance the glory of God their Saviour ; all regard Clirist's yoke as easy, and his burden as light ; all combine to mourn for sin with deep and godly sorrow ; all arrive, sooner or later, at a good hope through grace concerning their own personal salvation ; all profoundly revere the statutes and ordinances of their Lord ; all desire to spread the savour of his name ; all long and pray for the day

12 THE BEGliNNlNG OF BETTER DAYS.

Avhen they shall be perfect in holiness, even as their Father who is in heaven is perfect." *

No contrast can be greater than between a Christianity thus practical, and the ordinary course of the world. Such a contrast was now about to be exhibited in the character of Mr Williams; and, from a paper in his own handwriting, we are ap- pi'ised of the circumstances in which it originated. These are so peculiar, that some may think it would have been wise to suppress them. But on the principle of allowing the subject of this Memoir to be, as much as possible, his own biographer, we could not ignore facts which he has detailed so fully. They have their own significance. They harmonise with the eager temperament and lively imagination of the writer. They are not without their import as a contribution to spiritual patho- logy. Nor should the value of the result be affected by the anomalies of the process. The last three books of The Course of Time were writ- ten in the inspiration of a hectic fever, and Kuhla Khan was composed in a dream ; but they are fine poems, notwithstanding. And, even allowing that a good deal of the morbid and visionary may have mingled with higher processes at this juncture of Mr Williams's history, the result was a sober and healthful reahty. That result was, a disposition so devout and benevolent, a life so holy, a spirit so

* Lights and Shadows of the Life of Faith. By the Rev. W. K. Tweedie, Edinburgh.

THE BEGINNING OP BETTER DA.YS. 13

self-sacrificing, that, whatever circumstances may have attended its commencement, every Christian will feel that God himself was its Author.

Mr Williams's mind was marked by a certain fervid exuberance. However charming in personal intercourse, with a fluent pen this fulness of emo- tion is apt to produce redundant writing. For the sake of our readers, we shall, therefore, take the freedom of shortening the paragraphs, and omit- ting expletive words and unimportant sentences. Were we editing a British classic, we should not venture on such retrenchments ; but in the present case, we feel that our responsibility is for the author's sentiments and statements of fact, and that condensation is not a licence, but a duty. With this preliminary remark, we proceed to give Mr Williams's narrative of the singular illness which issued in his conversion.

" I bless God that ever I was afflicted. Not only do I date my conversion from my illness, but I believe that this illness was designed for my con- version. It was a seizure more remarkable than any of which I remember to have heard or read ; and, apart from the inward working of the mind, it presented a series of extraordinary symptoms, which seem to defy solution. Myself a medical man, and for many years accustomed to witness disease in every form, I have been able to explain,

14 THE BEGINNIJ^tt OF BETTER DAYS.

to some extent at least, almost every case ; but for the cause of my own illness, and for the explana- tion of its strange symptoms, my knowledge and means of judging fall far short. But whether mere natural causes occasioned all the bodily sensations or not, scarcely signifies : the mental changes, I am fully assured, were altogether the work of God.

" At the very outset, I should acknowledge that I had no previous belief in the truth of Chris- tianity. I viewed it sometimes in one light, some- times in another. I regarded it, for the most part, as an absurdity. At its many votaries I wondered, and their understandings I looked down upon as strangely deluded. I could not comprehend how a God should die, nor even bring my mind to admit that an atonement was necessary. The works of infidels, however, I always read with dissatisfaction or disgust ; and any scurrilous at- tack on the faith of others I should have been ready to oppose. But into the truth of the matter I never thought of inquiring ; and, as far as my perusal of it went, the Bible was a mere lumber- book. Science, literature, and my profession, were my whole delight ; but the truth or falsehood of Christianity I felt it no part of my business to examine.

" Of natural religion I had something in my heart. Many a time have I lifted my eyes from nature up to nature's God, and have adored his

THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS. 15

excellency as revealed in his beautiful and mag- nificent works. I knew myself to be a creature sprung from God ; but I never dreamed that I was a creature accursed before him. I knew God to be infinitely just ; but I never feared that that justice would consign me to eternal misery. I knew that I oftentimes acted contrary to my con- science ; but I believed that intellectual enlighten- ment and the mere force of reasoning could carry human nature to perfection, and place it far above the control of passion. I deified human nature as capable of transcendent virtue, and absolutely denied its innate corruption. I hoped that the soul was immortal, but could never feel convinced that it was so ; but as to everlasting; torments, — I viewed the doctrine as sacrilege and a defama- tion of the justice of God. The existence of a devil I believed no more than any other bugbear.

" The only instances when confidence in my own opinions has been altogether shaken, were, I well remember, moments when, without an assig-nable reason, I have awakened from sleep, and an inde- scribable awe and terror have seized on my soul, filling it with undefined apprehensions of the future.*

* To such lucid moments does Jane Taylor refer, in lines not the less poetical because of their simple truthfulness : —

" And yet, amid the hurry, toil, and strife, The claims, the urgencies, the whirl of life, — The soul— perhaps in silence of the night — Has flashes, transient intervals of light ;

16 THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS.

" Such is a slight picture of ray state of mind pre- Tious to my illness. Up to tlie moment when it seized me I had been engaged in the active duties of my profession. I had visited many patients, and during the evening had felt fatigued and lan- guid, and anxious to seat myself comfortably in my arm-chair. A little after ten o'clock I saw the last of the persons waiting for me, and instantly I felt myself severely unwell. I Avent up-stairs, and threw myself on my bed. In a few minutes I felt in- expressibly ill. The first sensation was an amazing weight on the chest, with difficulty of respiration; the carotids of my throat striking like hammers on my head, and a feeling as though torrents of air were rushing into ray brain, and the head were

When things to come, without a shade of douht,

In terrible reality stand out.

Those lucid moments suddenly present

A glance of truth, as though the heavens were rent ;

And through that chasm of pure celestial light.

The future breaks upon the startled sight ;

Life's vain pursuits, and Time's advancing pace,

Appear with death-bed clearness, face to face;

And Immortality's expanse sublime.

In just proportion to the speck of time :

While Death, uprising from the silent shades.

Shews his dark outline ere the vision fades ;

In strong relief against the blazing sky

Appears the shadow as it passes by.

And though o'erwhelming to the dazzled brain.

These are the moments when the mind is sane;

For then, a hope in heaven — the Saviour's cross.

Seem what they are, and all things else but dross."

Ei^sfn/s in lilii/me.

THE BEGINNINGS OF BETTER DAYS. 17

itself expanding. Tlie agony became insupport- able, and I knocked for some one to come to me. Meanwhile my mind acquired a wonderful vivacity. Thought upon thought came pouring in with a dis- tinctness of apprehension, enlargement of view, and faithfulness of memory, such as I never before experienced. A power to comprehend my personal identity, and to understand my relation to time and eternity, was wonderfully given me. The passing moment seemed without beginning or end. I felt as though immortal faculties, immortal relations, were beginning to be recognised. The thought began to stagger me, that the hand of death was grasping the cords of life. With the thought, dark- ness— thick, palpable darlcness — gathered on my _ soul. A mountain load seemed to crush my breast. It was girt as with bands of iron. My heart felt too big for its wonted space. A horror of anguish filled my whole being. Unnumbered sins sprang up before my astonished conscience, and Death in his terror rose up to my gaze. 'Look where I would, there was no hope. One wide, unbounded ocean of dismay and terror, lashed with tempestuous bowlings, roared on every side ; and the thought of an offended God pierced my soul with madness and despair.

" In this state I lay for hours. Meanwhile my sister, alarmed by my knocking, had come and found me speechless. Others of my friends Avere sent for, then medical attendance. Recourse was

B

18 THE BEGIISMNG OF BETTEK DAYS.

had to remedial measures ; but I still grew worse. The night passed, and the morning found me the same. A painfully vivid consciousness of every- thing going on around me added greatly to my distress. The first faint glimmer of light that broke into my soul was when the name of Jesus was uttered. With the very thought of that name the hope of mercy was allied, and like a drowning man I clung to that hope. In the agony of my soul I called upon that name ; and in the mean- while, finding that one of God's servants (Mr M., senior) had entered the room, I felt a new hope, as if the very presence of a man of God was a source of safety. He bade me look to Jesus. With the very bidding, I felt an infinite joy in so doing. Faith in that holy name rapidly gained the ascen- dant. My darkness was turned into light, and in a short time I felt a sweet sense of the pardoning mercy of God. After this I grew better and better, and all my symptoms remitted, till I felt nothing except the languor resulting from the violence of ray previous sujfferings.

" Towards the evening, however, a relapse took place, with phenomena essentially different. Be- ginning with the same contraction of the chest as before, there followed tetanic spasms — a violent jerking of the upper part of the body from side to side, interrupted by quiet intervals, sometimes by a complete rigidity of the neck and spine. So sensi- tive was I to touch, or to the impression of a breath

THE BEGIXXING OF BKlTliR DAYS. 19

of air, that the approach of any one evincuig i\n intention to disturb me would tlnow me into con- vulsions; and, suspecting tetanus or hydrophobia, the three medical attendants inquired whether I liad been bitten by a dog, or had sustained any mechanical injury. Witli short intermissions, tliis state of things lasted for successive days, till my strength was nearly exhausted. Towards the close of the fourth day, and during the succeeding night, ray eyes were upturned in their sockets ; I retained not the slightest power of voluntary breathing ; I was incapable of speech ; and the attempt to swallow a drop of water brought on spasms which threatened suffocation.

" During all this period I was possessed of per- fect consciousness ; nor had I any pain. The only ])ainful sensation was the impossibility of resisting the convulsive movements of my body, and the fear- ful constriction of my chest. At first I was, as it were, a mere spectator and observer of the symptoms — thinking, and even reasoning upon them ; and when abstracted from their consideration, T felt that I could cahnlv meditate on God's mei'cies. I had no painful conflicts about my state, but a settled serenity — a tranquiUity for which I could scarcely account, unless from the conviction that my salvation was sure. But during the last night of this stage, I experienced wonderful evidence of a world to come. My friends were assembled at various dis- tances around my bed. The curtains were drawn,

20 THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS.

and a candle yielded its obscure rays. I heard the sobbings of my relations. I knew that they looked on ray life as fast fleeting. I was myself convinced that I should not recover. I had pictured my body carried to the grave, and had marked in my mind's eye all the attendant circumstances. Mentally I had taken leave of earth, and I lay in perfect jieace, assured of my salvation. A dead silence now reigned around ; and as I w^aited the moment of my final change, it was an intense and deeply absorb - in a' thouo-ht that soon the great scene would be revealed. Whilst lying thus, I thought I heard a gentle knocking. My soul started in expectation. Inwardly I exclaimed, ' I come. Lord Jesus I' Re- lapsing into quietude, I felt all but dismissed. It had the effect of so far arousing me, that I got ]uj\ver to speak, and called to my kindred, who came around me in surprise and anticipation. I took leave of them. I told one to be watchful, and spoke to the others, till power of speech again for- sook me. As I lay, I drew my hand to my breast, to examine its beatings. I felt they were small and weak, and I was content, for I should soon be in an- other world. I was even anxious to die ; for I fe red lest, living again, I might lose what now seemed so sure. Then it was that a new order of feelings canje over me. I had the most extraordinary sense of the bodily presence of the Power of Darkness standing by the side of my bed ; not that 1 imagined that I saw anvtbing, but I felt as if I could l.avo

THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS. 21

put my hand on tlic very spot wlicre he stood, an I I shrank from that side with horror and loathing. But, blessed be God ! on the opposite side stood, equally revealed to ray spiritual senses, the Power unto Salvation, the very embodiment of love ; and to this I turned as to a refuge. I shrank from the Evil One, and poured out my prayers to Christ, whoso protection was evident to me. Thus I lay, when, all of a sudden, the most brilliant light darted into the room, and filled me with astonishment. Now, I thought, the time is surely at hand. God is visibly making manifest his approach. Quickly will the angels of God be descending, and I shall behold my Redeemer. By the vigor thus imparted I was enabled to sit up in bed, and with a feeling like that which Lazarus might have experienced, conscious of a supernatural Presence, I called out to my friends, ' Did you not see the hght ? ' Next minute the impression came over me tliat I was yet to live ; and at the same time, inspired with the certainty of knowing vvdiat I ought to take, I told my assistant to bring me forty drops of the tincture of opium, and twenty drops of the muriated tinc- ture of iron, and to repeat the dose every twenty minutes. After taking the first dose, I continued sitting in bed, feeling as though entranced ; and, what is singular, my arms, when extended at an early part of the evening, had remained so, evincing the cataleptic state. 1 took the second dose, and lay down. These doses, so large that my assistant

22 THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS.

after\yards wondered what could have possessed him to give them, were the means of my recovery. After a miserable interval, during which the body seemed to be sinking into corruption, and the mind itself seemed to have lost all power of joy or sorrow, hope or fear, a profound sleep closed my eyes. It lasted upwards of twelve hours, and, awaking as from a dream, there remained no trace of my former state, except extreme debility. I never had the slightest relapse, but made rapid progress in recovery."

An interesting volume was lately published, in which a Christian scholar recalls the workings of his mind during a long period of derangement ; * and we believe that both science and religion arc eventually served by accurate statements of cases in which moral and physical phenomena uiingle. We are too ignorant of pathology to be able to explain all the symptoms which Mr AVilliams has so vividly described ; and it would be very presump- tuous in us to profess to account for those sensa- tions which the patient, himself a medical man, modestly acknowledges as beyond the range of his own experience or reading. Yet there are one or two circumstances of which an ordinary spectator may possibly judge as accurately as the patient himself, with all his professional training.

For instance, it was at the close of a laborious

* Autobiography of the Rev. William Walford. Edited by the Rev. J. Stooghton.

THE BEGINNING OP BETTER DAYS. 2'-\

day, and ^vhen excessively fatigued, that Mr Wil- liams v.-as first seized with those singular sensations in his head, and with the brilliant accompanying ideas. Now, to say nothing of any intermediate cause, such as determination of blood to the brain, we know that excessive application or exhaustion is not unfrequcntly followed by similar odd sensa- tions. Dr Moore mentions Dr Isaac Watts, who, after great exertion of mind, thought his head too large to allow him to pass out at the study door ; as also the case of a gentleman who, after deliver- ing a lecture at the College of Surgeons, said that his head felt as if it filled the room.* With Mr Williams, the sensation was " as though torrents of air were rushino; into his brain, and the head itself expanding." Nor do we suppose that it is at all uncommon for nervous exhaustion to be followed by such cataleptic seizures as Mr Williams expe- rienced, when his eyes were fixed, and when he had lost the power of speech, as well as voluntary respi- ration.! The " inspired certainty " with which he

* Tlie Power of the Soul over the Body. By George Moore, M.D. Fourth edition, p. 2G4.

f To our lay ignorance, the most perplexing complication of this illness is the tetanic access which marked the second stage. Per- haps some light may be thrown on it by the following case detailed by Dr Joseijh Williams, who describes the patient as suffering from cerebral irritation, mixed up with hysteria and violent tetanic spasms. " She declared the pain was so great that she should go mad. Alarmed at the tetanic symptoms more especially, I examined carefully the thumb and fingers, to ascertain if these had been in- jured ; inquired minutely if she had lately pi-icked her finger, or

24 THE BEGINNING OP BETTER DAYS.

prescribed for himself the tonic opiate, need not surprise us. Suggested by some constitutional craving, invalids often fancy that if they could only obtain a given antidote, they would instantly be well. And they frequently are right. Sometimes the specific is a strange one, and would not readily have occurred to a man of science. In the present instance we presume that science would have coun- tersigned the patient's prescription, had it only known all the circumstances ; but then it must be remembered that in the present instance the patient liimself was a doctor.

" Intense mental conceptions so strongly im- pressed upon the mind as, for the moment, to be believed to have a real existence," are amongst the most frequent spectral illusions.* As coming near this class, we must regard that "extraordinary sense of the bodily presence of the PoAver of Dark- ness standing by the side of his bed," which filled the imagination of the patient towards the close of his illness, as well as the brilliant light which fol-

received any blow or fall, stating to the friends that I had never seen such symptoms but where a nerve had been irritated. Ex- amined the mouth ; the teeth perfect, undecayed; but still dissaiis- fied, I took out my pencil-case and gently struck each tooth ; on tapping the second siiperior molar of the affected side, great pain tsnsued, and on repeating this it was increased." On removing the tooth it was detected that pus was pressing on the pulpy portion of the nerve ; and thus incipient mania was cured, and the life of the patient was saved. — See Williams on Insanity, p. 260.

* See Hibbert on Apparitions. Abercronibie on the Intellectual Powers, part 3.

THE BEGINNING OP BETTER DAYS. 2.')

lowed. To bystanders no light was visible, no presence was palpable. Unlike the voice and the light on the road to Damascus, which the specta- tors heard and saw, these manifestations were con- fined to the individual's own mind.

Still these ideas were substantially correct. Disease might embody them in forms too material ; and yet they were truths. It was true that sins unnumbered stood chargeable against one who had hitherto lived without God in the world. It was true that God Avas offended, and death was coming. It was true that boundless dismay and terror environed tlie Christless transo-ressor. The name of Jesus had no more effect in tranquillising the conscience and kindling hope than that blessed name should ever have. And the instinct which shrank from the Power of Darkness and cried to Jesus for protection, was itself a token that a new life was dawning. There might be nervous excite- ment, but there was also a spiritual awakening. There might be morbid sensations; but the per- vading conviction was scriptural, and the conse- quent change of thought and feeling was perma- nent. That change we shall leave Mr AVilliams to describe.

" It was on the fifteenth day of September 1846 that I was taken ill. It is now September 1847 Avhen I am writing this. The delio-htful feelino-sof the first few days of convalescence I remember well. Joyfully exulting in the interposition of

26 THE liKGINXlNG OF BETTEll DAYS.

Divine Providence and mercy, which had brought me out of thick darkness into tlie glorious light of truth, 0 what a heaven flitted through my soul ! Holiness with its celestial gilding seemed to tinge every object around me. The world was no longer the same world; its people no longer the same beings. Myself and my fellows I no longer re- garded as creatures of a moment's duration, but I saw eternity impressed as a seal on the whole genei'ation of men. The universe was no longer a confused assemblage of indistinct parts, moving towards a gloomy terminus, but, as far as the Divine purposes were concerned, a bright whole of uniform perfection, and the entire expanse filled with love, unbounded love. God himself seemed to move everywhere. All was joy to my soul. I looked on myself as a brand plucked from the burn- ing, and rejoiced in the sure hope of salvation. Jesus Avas most precious to me — my glory and in- finite joy. The Bible, hitherto a sealed book, was now a river of water to my thirsty soul. I was astounded with its contents. As I turned over its pnges, wonder upon wonder ravished my delighted heart. I felt that I would care to live only for the sake of reading it. It was a glorious hght. At times its heavenly rays would subdue me into a mellow and peaceful benignity ; at ethers, rouse me into ecstatic bliss. Everywhere was the autho- rity, the love, of God recognised. Its power to command mv obedience was as the thunder-clad

THE BEGINNING OP BETTER DAYS. 27

arm of Omnipotence; and its pleadings for holi- ness were as the gentle whisperings of love, . to which my heai't, my mind, my soul answered assent. How I wondered at my former dark- ness! How amazed did I feel that the precious light had so long shone in my way, and I never had perceived it ! I resolved to make it the absolute rule of my life.

" These first days were as though they had been a foretaste of heavenly peace. Never shall I forget mv first mortification at finding that sin still existed within me. There had been no actual com- mittal of an oftence that my conscience charged me with; yet a sudden and unexpected change had' come over me. There was a cloudiness in my mind ; my faith Avas dim ; my heart had ceased to exult. It was as though all had been a bright and glorious dream, and I had now awakened to the stern realities of a cold and miserable world. Alas, the bitterness of that moment ! I strove to recall my hopes — they seemed delusion. I read my Bible — the bright revealing light which had heretofore almost made the very print more clear was gone ; and, although I still knew it to be the Word of God, the page had ceased to enkindle rapture or inspire emotion. I knew not how to account for this state. I had believed that the work of chano-e and renovation had been completed, at least carried to so liioh a deo-ree that it was im- possible I could wilfully si.n against God again. I

28 THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS.

abhorred the thoug-ht, yet lierc I was in davkness, and sin palpably abounding in my heart. How sad was the sight of myself! It was the first glimpse at the inherent corruption and original depravity of my heart. It was the first of a series of painful but important lessons which convinced me that God had only hitherto instructed me in the first prin- ciples, and laid the foundation for my faith ; but that the Avork of grace had to be carried on, and an absolute change of heart cifected, by many a severe and fiery ordeal.

-" In the course of weeks, I was enabled to take a trip into North Wales ; here my connexion with 'the world was first re-established. All the avoca- tions of man, that were apart from his religious duties, appeared to me to have vanity legibly stamped on them. On my route I stopped a short time in Liverpool, but the bustle and commotion excited no pleasurable sympathy ; for I felt that it all was vanity. The whirl, the din, the confusion, all told me of the world's spirit ; and in the coun- tenance of the busy throng I could not -read one expression in unison with my own feelings, or which came home to my heart. At Beaumaris I abode at a commercial liotel, and there, in the presence of the usual visitants of an inn, I took out my Bible, glorying in the thought that I was thus unfurling Christ's banner. One of the company entered into conversation, and boasted of his reli- gious acquisitions, and of the high position he held

THE BEGINNING OF BETTER DAYS. 29

in the church to which he belono-ed as teacher and deacon. But gradually he drank to inebriation. I was glad to find a room to myself, and in dejec- tion to ponder over this first instance of a false professor.

" My stay in North Wales, especially my visit to Llanberis and Snowdon, afforded my mind the healthful occupation of contemplating and adoring God as revealed in his works. To me the God of nature and the God of revelation now were one, and I began more sensibly to feel the relation wherein we stand to God by the conjoint link of creation and redemption. Hoav glorious to know that a pathway had been opened for the rebellious sinner to the favor of the great Etrrnnl, whose hand had formed the miglity fabric of the universe, and who had given the being and life we enjoy, but from whom I had so long been severed, and to whom I had never felt my relation, nor acknow- ledged my obedience! But the great Eternal was now the Lord my God ; and I, the creature of his hand, could, through the Redeemer, look up and believe that the Power which guided the planets in their course would direct me in all my ways, and preserve me by his providential care. I felt that he had first loved me. I felt that God so loved the world as to give his only begotten Son, that Avhosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. I felt that it is the First and the Last who there expresses his care for all the

30 THIi; BEGINNING OP BETTER DAYS.

family of man, including myself, a worm so insigni- ficant. At that mercy I could only wonder and adore, and, with faint conceptions of his love and grace, I could but humble myself before him."

CHAPTER III.

Cfirisliaii (t.VDcricnrc Hiiir HstMness.

Mercy and Trutli, that long were miss'd.

Now joyfully are met ; Sweet peace and righteousness have kiss'd, And hand in hand are set.

Truth from the earth, like to a flower.

Shall bud and blossmu then ; And justice from her heavenly bower

Look down on mortal men.

Psalm Ixxxv. 10, 11. — Milton.

I fear that much of my backwardness in spiritual matters may be imputed to my overlooking so much the work of the Spirit of God in the plan of salvation And oh ! how important is His work ! To open the eyes, enlighten tlie understanding, soften the heart, remove prejudices, " shed abroad the love of God abundantly in the heart," to "witness with our spirit that we are the sons of God," to " help our infirmities," to "seal us unto the day of redemption." — Rev. J, Macdonald of Calcutta.

There is such a thing as a denominational zoology. There is a certain temperament, there arc certain mental tendencies, from Avhich, if a man is not con- tent to remain a Presbyterian in Scotland or an Episcopalian in England, it may be predicted which other section of the Christian community he will join. The Wesleyan body is the great absorbent of warm hearts and fervid spirits. In the fre- quency of its devotional meetings, in the frankness and unreserve of its Christian intercourse, in the vigor of its responses and the soaring rapture of its hymns, and in the benevolent vivacity which finds a post and an employment for every member, it meets • many cravings of the young and ardent convert. Is he crying, in the gladness of his soul, " Sing aloud unto God our strength : make a joyful noise unto the God of Jacob " ? Alike in the cathedral and the conventicle, he is apt to be depressed by an organic solo or a rueful dirge ; but escaping to the Metho- dist meeting, he finds their " glory " all " awake : "

c

34 CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS.

they are "taking the psalm, and bringing the pleasant harp AYJth the psaltery, and blowing up the trumpet," and with exulting rivalry, " young men and maidens, old men and children," are praising the Lord. In the eagerness of first love is he exclaiming, " Come and hear, all ye that fear God, and I wull declare what he hath done for my soul ! " Bui nobody will stop to listen ; and so, for an audience he is driven away to the love-feast or class-meeting. In the exuber- ance of a newly-awakened zeal, would he like an outlet for his energies, a field of Christian activity ? In the sanctuary which he has hitherto frequented he feels himself a cipher, lie has never been in- vited to engage in any scheme of usefulness, and, except the neat and noiseless sexton who bows him into his pew, no one seems to know him. But he has not worshipped three Sabbaths with the Metho- dists when he is recognised and accosted, and three months have not passed before he is installed in the Sunday-school, or, with a bundle of tracts and a rov- ing commission, is sent out into the highw^ays and hedges. The portrait of the great founder on the wall, a box for Wesleyan missions on the mantel-shelf, placards of the next anniversary in the shop win-- dow, the occasional dropping in of a brother during the day with friendly inquiry as to his health of soul, hearty hand-shakings at the evening prayer- meeting, and a vesper stanza from the consecrated hymn-book, all betoken the activity, the brotherly- kindness, and the cheerful piety in the midst of

CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS. 35

which the young Theophilus has found his ecclesi- astical habitation and his congenial home.

The society which has yielded a logician so acute as the younger Treffry, and a systematist so masterly as Richard Watson, to say nothing of a scholar so erudite as Adam Clarke, — such a so- ciety cannot be reproached with the lack of Biblical or theoloo-ical learning. Nevertheless, the lovers of metaphysical divinity and Scriptural exposition will not be apt to join a community whose migra- tory ministers and perpetual excitement make it a church upon wheels. Wesleyan Christianity is emotional and experimental; it has no attraction for severe reasoners and abstract speculators ; nor is it adapted to spirits sedate or sombre. Its ready-made materials are the men of feeliiig; the sanguine, the impulsive, and enthusiastic natures, whom the grace of God makes the best evangel- ists, and the -^kind, humane, and homely natures whom the same grace converts into the salt of our English factories, the living epistles of such rural neighbourhoods as are blessed with their pre- sence. And although the predominance of the emotional element in Wesleyan membership is not without its inconvenience and its perils ; although it aggravates the task of the governing body, and renders periods of internal commotion vehement and almost volcanic ; still, in the normal state of the society, it gives a peculiar animation to the services of its sanctuaries, and an inton?;ity to its

36 CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS.

missionary zeal, far beyond the proportion of most of the other Christian communities ; and from what we know of his ardent temperament, we cannot wonder that the Wesleyan Society was the chm'ch which, after his conversion, Mr Williams joined.

The last chapt^ left him on a tour of North "Wales. A short journey re-established his healths and he returned to Burslem to receive a warm wel- come from former patients and friends. We shall now resume his own narrative : —

" I sought to become connected with the visible Church of Christ. Previous to my ilhiess I had for nearly twelve months attended divine service at the Wesleyan chapel, owing to the esteem I entertained for the abilities and eloquence of the ministers then laboring in the circuit. But I never looked on myself as a Methodist, nor pro- fessed to belong to any church. Jn my early years I had with my parents attended the tabernacle of the Independents, and as 1 grcAv older I occa- sionally went to tlie Established Church. When a student in London, except when some popular clergyman attracted my notice, I generally ab- sented myself entirely from public Avorsliip, In those days I should have scorned the thought as an insult to my understanding, liad it been sug- gested that I might some day join the Methodist Society. For them, of all sects, I had the greatest distaste, and they were a by-word and a I'cproach in my mouth. However, from m.any opportunities

CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS. 37

of judging of one individual amongst them — the same who proved such a friend during my illness — I had arrived at a much more elevated opinion of Christian integrity and worth than I had ever entertained before ; and now gratitude as well as high respect bound me to the Wesleyan Church through him. Besides, their fervent zeal for the cause of God was attractive to my now roused feelings. I desired that every creature should rejoice in the glorious tidings revealed to myself, and could have wished for a trumpet tongue to echo salvation over the length and breadth of the earth.

" Accordingly, on the 29th of November 1846, I presented myself at one of the class meetings, the leader of which was my already tried friend, and received a ticket on trial The minister was pre- sent that evening, and, besides giving expression to that presence of God which he enjoyed in his own soul, he addressed interrogatories, counsel, admoni- tion, and encouragement to each one of us. With our veteran leader I was delighted ; such was the honest truthfulness of all he said, and such the evidence he afforded of living in very near com- munion with God in Christ Jesus. However, there were feelings in my breast which I little expected to find there. That pride which depreciates the understanding of others and exalts our own, and which so abounded in my secret thoughts and actions before my conversion, I found sensibly

38 CHRISTIAN EXPEEIEXCE AND USIJFULNESS,

existing now. I tried to conquer it, but it was not yet overthrown. It was the intrenched fortress of the enemy, from which he could issue at any unguarded moment, and lay waste my peace of mind. Many have been his triumphs. Many a time has he taken me captive at his will ; but I feel that I shall be more than conqueror through Him that loved me, and shall finally sing the glories of Him that giveth us the victory.

" As I became better acquainted with the society, I found that its doctrines and organisation wonder- fully coincided with my daily-increasing knowledge of the Scriptures, and with the teaching wliich God's Spirit imparted to me. I found it was God's will that I should be associated with one individual who served God in spirit and in truth ; but, alas ! how immeasurably distant was the period when I could hope to be thus fervent in spirit, serving the Lord ! Day by day I found fresh evidence of the depravity of my evil heart. I certainly felt an earnest desire after righteousness ; but my religion, I soon per- ceived, was too much characterised by fits and starts, too much influenced by circumstances and occasions. It was too much a religion of emotions and feelings ; and in the brief space of a single day there were intcrA^als of negligence and apathy, when worldly avocations darkened my mind ; and when the hour of prayer arrived, the burden of my sins bore heavily on my heart.

" The most striking instance of the revcalment of

CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS. 39

mj'self, in all ray spiritual destitution, occurred some months after my conversion. For some time there had been a fearful conflict going on — desires to do the will of God, on the one part, and yet a total incapacity to make good my intentions. I perceived an increasing helplessness — a powerlessness and in- ability to maintain a single resolution. The family devotions I had instituted I felt absolutely inade- quate to perform. My prayers were without fer- vency. I could scarce find language for the most ordinary sentiment, and I was utterly ashamed and confounded at myself. The profession of religion in such circumstances seemed impossible, and I was dispirited at the prospect of attending my class, where I could only expose the poverty and listless- ness of my mind. I was ready to despair, and give up the whole. The secret of it all was not then known to me. I had yet to learn a most important lesson, which was, that I had been hitherto trusting to my own strength, and had not recollected how, without the aid of God's Holy Spirit, I could not perform one duty aright.

" For weeks — I may say for months — it continued thus. Various temptations came in my way, and I felt that I had repeatedly sinned against God. My soul became darker and darker, and in deep trouble I groaned and wept over my sad condition. Doubts assailed mo as to the truth of all ; but these I re- pelled with amazement and horror. There was still an inward sincerity of heart in seeking after

40 CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AKD L'SEFULNESS.

God ; and liour after hour, on my bended knees, did I seek his help, but without any perceptible progress in inward holiness or spiritual enlighten- ment.

" The climax of this condition was attained on a Sunday night. I had spent part of the Sabbath carelessly, and my conscience was heavily laden with sin. My household had retired to rest, and I was left alone. I was disposed to follow their example, hut I was not prepared to commit myself in prayer to God. I felt no inclination for it ; but to go to bed without prayer was impossible. I therefore sat down and tried to read. However, my thoughts would not permit me to go on with the book, and I was compelled to desist. I was now sitting in what I may term a sullen moodiness. There was a heavy weight on my heart, and a terrible darkness began to throw its shadows around me. I began to be alarmed at my position ; I was staggered at my callousness and insensibility. My convictions I retained in full force, but I felt that I was without religion. God seemed at an infinite distance. An abyss of darkness intervened between him and my soul. The thought that I was forsaken by the Spirit of God, and abandoned to a reprobate heart, took possession of my mind ; and, looking to the future, I saw how different were now my hopes and prospects. I lay full length on the hearth-rug, in absolute despair. At length I tried to pray, but my lips refused their office : pray I could not. I

CHRISTIAl^ EXPERIEXCE AND USEFULNESS. '41

felt that I had now a real foretaste of hell, for I was without God and without hope. Hours rolled away, and I loathed myself, and abhorred the pic- ture of my own heart which I now beheld. I made renewed efforts at prayer, and determined that, if I could express no more, I would repeat the pub- lican's petition, ' God be merciful to me, a sinner.' I did so. Though it was the depth of winter, the morning's light broke in whilst I was still engaged in fervent supplication. I acknowledged my guilt ; I pleaded the blood of Christ shed for me ; I sued for mercy ; but no consolation was afforded, and, quite exhausted, I retired to bed. There I renewed my prayer, and while so doing I fell asleep. Shortly after, I awoke, and, kneeling by my bed-side, I be- sought the Lord for a ray of heavenly light. Still without a satisfactory sense of God's love, I rested again for a short time ; and, on awaking, a flood of holy joy and peace burst in. God was present to my soul, and his love was manifest to a degree more rapturous than I had ever before experienced. I praised, I adored, I blessed my Redeemer.

" From this time I began to understand more fully, or rather it was now that I began to under- stand at all, the nature of the human heart in its unregenerate state, and what are the glorious changes to be expected from redeeming grace. I perceived what a vitally important part in the work of redemption pertains to the Holy Spirit, and that every change, and each step in the way of holiness,

42 CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS.

is effected by his agency ; and this, too, in com- phance with an earnest desire, and in answer to fervent prayer. A most abhorrent picture of my- self had been set before me, and I felt that it was just what I should be were the Spirit of God ivith- drawn. Hence there was nothing for self-righteous- ness to build upon, and all pride was utterly con- founded. The glory of my salvation belonged only to the Redeemer — to God manifest in Christ Jesus ; and every grace was furnished through him, and imparted by the Spirit of Grace. To me no- thing remained but humihty, and prayer, and praise. Self was prostrate ; Christ was magnified. Hitherto I had believed in Christ, but now I began to see what faith in Christ really meant. It was no lono-er the mere belief of assent, but the behef of trust ; no longer a dead, but a living and work- ing faith. I had now no remote nor indefinite object to attain, but an immediate advantage to pursue. Glorious as was the thought of an ulti- mate salvation, it could scarce afford an impulse so quickening as the conviction that holiness of heart and the peace of God might be obtained in this life, and an absolute change of being be even now effected. Here was scope enough for all diligence, and for the fervency of prayer.

" For clearness I shall repeat the knowledge I now gained. I had fancied that in the change wrought upon me at my conversion, the vile con- dition of my heart would have been altogether

CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS. 43

amended and rectified ; and I anticipated nothing but purity of thought and conformity to God. Disappointed in this, I began to doubt if the change I had undergone were sufficient, and when I found that sin had still dominion over me, I was almost tempted to mistrust the power assigned to rehgion. But when I knew my heart better, I perceived that I had never been truly self-abased, nor brought into a subjection to God sufficiently lowly. But now that I knew that the very essence of my nature was sin in God's sight, in that very discovery there was laid the foundation for building a holy temple unto God. I now felt an enmity to the flesh which warred against the spirit, and I could now with delight and comfort seek the aid of God in the contest. The light of his counte- nance shone upon me; his Word grew precious to me ; and with the knowledge that his Spirit helpeth our infirmities, I trust to set about the work of ordering all things rightly in his sight more seriously than ever."

The grace which he coveted was granted, and the career of Mr Williams was henceforth marked by warm and consistent piety. In his profession more popular than ever, and, owing to his humane and disinterested exertions, in great request among the poor, he often seized the opportunity to urge on their attention the interests of their never-dying souls. His faithful counsels and exhortations were frequently crowned with success ; and long before

44 CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS.

he liad thoiio'hts of laborino- abroad, he had be- come a medical missionary at home. In the year when Burslem was visited by cholera, the success of his treatment entailed on him an enormous pres- sure of employment ; but, even amidst all the toil and hurry of that anxious season, he found time to pray with the sick, and to point them to the Lamb of God who taketh away the sins of the world. In his manner there was something very softening and assuring, as well as very impressive ; and in re- peated instances he had reason to hope that his " labor was not in vain in the Lord." Several de- parted declaring that their only confidence was in the merits and mediation of that Saviour to whom he had directed their dying eye ; and in the memory of many of his patients he still lives as the good physician who strove so earnestly for the cure of " all their diseases."

One field of his usefulness must not be forgotten. He was in the habit of visiting the barracks at Burslem, and distributing tracts to the soldiers. In two instances, at least, he succeeded in re- awakening religious impressions; and the men whom he then induced to join the Wesleyan Society still maintain their steadfastness, With one of them, after he left Burslem, Mr "Williams kept up an aftectionate correspondence; and we may transcribe a few sentences from the first of his letters : —

CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS. 45

" BuRSLEM, April 26, 1850.

..." Remember, nij brother, that it is a matter of very httle consequence what form om' trials take. To the ungodly, afflictions are indeed vexations; but although to the Christian they are grievous, yet they are cheerfully to be submitted to, rejoicing that we are counted worthy to suffer as sons, and that our heavenly Father chasteneth us for our profit. The Lord give us more faith and love ! Seek, my dear brother, ever to have fellowship with God the Father and God the Son in the Spirit, and let the thought of such amazing privilege raise and ennoble your affections, whilst you grow indifferent more and more to worldly hopes and worldly fears. Set all your affections on things above, and declare in the face of all men that here you are but a pilgrim and sojourner, as were all your fathers in the faith before you. When you find your heart oppressed, bethink you of the glorious reward Christ will give to all his tempted but faithful followers, Avho shall all come to the place of their rest through much tribula- tion.

" The Lord bless you, my dear brother. You must endeavour to beat up recruits and enlist them into the service of the great and glorious King of kings, the blessed and only Potentate. Shew every man who doubts your being appointed on such service the sign-manual of your Captain him- seK, — ' The Spirit and the Bride say. Come ; and

46 CHRISTIAN EXPEKIEKCB AND USEFULNESS.

let him that Jieareth say, Come.' You have heard and received the words of eternal hf "e : therefore take up your cross, follow your crucified Master, and share his reproach and sufferings.

" From your sincerely affectionate brother in the Lord, i^-^ " E. Williams,"

On the principle indicated in the close of this letter Mr Williams was already acting. He opened rooms in several neglected districts of the town, and as many as could be induced to attend he exhorted with much power and tenderness to flee from the wrath to come. A marked impres- sion was often produced ; and an eye-witness informs us that from these labors " a few of the most useful men have been raised up, and are following his way of kmdness to the souls and bodies of their neighbours."

Mr Williams was thus gradually drawn into the work of a home missionary. Ho enjoyed it ex- ceedingly. It Avas an outlet for all the energies of his eager and benevolent nature, and the impres- sion frequently produced was a delightful recom- pence, and cheered him to proceed. He began to feel that in such labors he would fain " spend and be spent ;" and belonging to a community in which evangelistic effort has been an almost invariable result from personal piety, it is not wonderful that his thoughts bciran to be directed towards the missionary enterprise. Just as his thorough-going

CHRISTIAN EXPERIENCE AND USEFULNESS. 47

enthusiasm at a former period had forced its way from the workshop to the college, so now tho same fervor, intensified and consecrated, was urging him out into the field of the world ; and, although in a quarter little expected, a door was about to open.

CHAPTEE IV.

Cii'

Shine, luiglity God, ou Britain shine,

Witli beams of heavenly grace ; Reveal thy power through all our coasts.

And shew thy Kiuiling face.

When shall thy name, from shore to shore,

Sound all tlie earth abroad, And distant nations know and love

Their Saviour and their God 1

Psalm Ixvii. 1-3. — Watts.

If the love of Christ, above everything else, does not constrain us to engage in the missionary work, surely, instead of finding happi- ness, of all persons we shall be the most miserable.— (ro?-cZon. Hall.

D

There was a Christian officer of the British Navy, whose attention had been especially directed to the South American Indians. He was peculiarly pre- possessed in favor of the Araucanian tribes in Bolivia and La Plata, and at great personal hazard he undertook repeated journeys of exploration among them. His object was to discover an open- ing for the introduction of the gospel; but he found them so suspicious of strangers, and on every side so hemmed in by Spanish Popery, that he was shut up to the conclusion that little could be effected till the local governments became more tolerant, and a better understanding was estab- lished betwixt the independent Indians and their white neighbours.

However, one region appeared more practicable. This was the extreme south of the American main- land. There were no Romish priests in Patagonia, and scarcely any commencement of European set- tlements. The Patagonians were a race of good capacity; and should the trutb once find a lodg.

52 THE MISSION.

ment amongst them, it was hoped that it might be thence transmitted to the northward, without need- ing to cross the barrier which Popery had thrown around the coast.

Full of his benevolent project, Captain Gardiner came to England. He succeeded in indoctrinating with his views a few friends, and inspired them with a measure of his own enthusiasm. So intent was he on the execution of his plan, and so secure of its ultimate success, that he was willing to de- vote to it not only his life and his property, but he proposed to take with him his wife and family, and estabhsh his future home in Patagonia.

Meanwhile, a small committee was formed at Brighton, with Sir Thomas Blomefield as the treasurer; and in December 1844, Captain Gar- diner, accompanied by Mr Hunt, a missionary catechist, set sail for Cape Gregory. But the experiment failed. The inveterate thieving pro- pensities of the natives, and the daily increasing risk of violence, rendered a longer sojourn on shore impossible ; and after a month of anxiety and dan- ger, the Captain and his companion were glad to take refuge on ship-board, and return to England.

What he had experienced at Cape Gregory, convinced Captain Gardiner that it would not be safe for any missionary party to put itself entirely in the power of the natives. And, therefore, he proposed a scheme which he hoped would secure them in case of danger. He recommended that a

THE MISSION. OO

decked boat should be provided, into which the missionaries might retreat when needful; and, as farther researches had led him to prefer Tierra del Fuego to the Patagonian mainland, in this vessel they would be able to follow, from island to island, the migrations of the restless inhabitants.

Early in 1848 a trial was made ; but so imper- fect were the means at the disposal of Captain Gardiner, that he found it impossible to persevere. Accordingly, he again returned to England, nowise daunted by his repeated disappointments, and con- fident of triumph could he only command the requisite appliances. But two apparent failures were trying to the zeal of his most sanguine sup- porters, and the mission Avas not of that magni- ficent kind which lays hold of romantic sympathies. There was little attraction in a few dim and oozy islets away at the world's end ; and, to many, the very name of a "Patagonian" mission suggested a sort of pious Quixotism. Besides, it was not un- fairly argued. Why waste the Church's resources on a handful of savages, when the millions of India and China have such a prepollent claim ?

But the South American Indians had seized the imagination and the heart of Captain Gardiner, and he would allow his friends no rest till they gave him a fair and final opportunity. Far away as Fuegia was, and few as were its hungry bar- barians, he could plead their relative importance. Guiana excepted, of all that mighty continent no

54 THK .MISSION.

other spot was accessible to Protestant missions. It was the Gibraltar of the South Pacific, and it was of no small consequence to our mariners to people with friendly occupants the Straits of Magellan and the coasts in the rear of Cape Horn. Above all, it was the only avenue attainable to the vast tribes of the interior — the tenants of the Andes, and the fierce nomads of the Pampas ; and as Popery had closed the main gates against the gospel, it was of paramount urgency to seize and keep open this postern.

The representations of this heroic evangelist again produced their impression, and his own self- devotion was more affecting than any argument. He put Ills life into the venture ; others gave their money ; one lady contributed a thousand pounds; a neAV committee was constructed; meet- ings were held ; circulars were issued. Two launches, twenty-six feet long, were built, the one as a floating mission-house, the other as a store- ship and magazine, with two small boats as tenders. An advertisement was inserted in the rehgious newspapers inviting catecliists to join the expedi- tion ; and for the manning of the boats, a few suit- able seamen were selected.*

* A full account of these proceedirigs will be found in the " Nar- rative of Missionary Effort in South America," by the Rev. George Pakenham Despard, B.A. For many interesting details the editor is also indebted to an obliging communication from Archibald Tucker Ritchie, Esq., of Liverpool, Mr Pakeuham's able and ardent predecessor in the Secretariat of the Patasonian Missionary Society.

THE MISSION. 55

It was to this advertisement that tlie eye of ]\Ir AVilUams was providentially directed, and he answered it in the following letter addressed to Captain Gardiner : —

" BuRSLEM, May 17, 1850.

" Sir, — Having observed in the Watclnman of the current week an advertisement for a lay mis- sionary to Tierra del Fuego, I beg leave to request farther particulars in reference to the mission, and to be furnished with specific information as to the qualifications required in the individual presenting himself.

" The advertisement has struck me as present- ing a singular opportunity of realising hopes which have been long indulged, — namely, of devot- ing my whole life and services to the cause of God. AYere I to engage in such a duty, it would not be because of any necessity to seek a livelihood, as I am already provided with a profession, and in the enjoyment of an income therefrom adequate to my necessities and wishes. Indeed, if I sought for an engagement in connexion with such an arduous enterprise, I should do it with a full consciousness of its requiring a sacrifice of all worldly and tem- poral good, sincerely reckoning all such loss to be gain, and, I hope, ready also to put even life in jeopardy that I might serve Christ, and be in his hand an instrument, however humble, to adA-ance his dominion.

56 THE MISSION.

" I Avill just state a few particulars concerning myself: —

" I am, I humbly trust, a converted man, having received the grace of God which bringeth salvation, little more than tnrce years, — previous to whicli I had been a sceptic and deist.

" I belong to the Wesleyan Methodist commu- nion, and am a local preacher and class leader. From the time of my conversion, and with an ardent desire to promulgate the truths which so deeply aifected my own heart, I have been acting on the principle of a home missionary, convening the poor together, and exhorting them to receive Christ ; and God has acknowledged and blessed my labors to the conversion of some, if not many, souls.

" My profession is that of surgeon, which I have been practising in this town with, I believe, credit, and the esteem of my fellow-townsmen. I am single, and just arrived at my thirty-third year. I may add that I have been in practice on my own account for nearly five years."

This letter was favorably received. The com- mittee satisfied itself as to Mr Williams's personal worth and general qualifications ; and, having passed satisfactorily an examination in theology, he was appointed, along with Mr Maidment, a cate- chist in the Fuegian Mission.

In taking this step, Mr Williams relinquished a

THE MISSION. 57

good income, and postponed for a long period some cherished prospects. Nor was it a slight trial to his tender and affectionate spirit to part with so many loved friends and relatives. But happily, after his services were accepted, so short a period elapsed till he found himself on ship-hoard, that there was no time for protracted partings or sorrowful musings. Before he could dispose of his practice, or go to bid farewell to some of his near- est kindred, the time of embarkation had arrived, and it required his best speed to reach Liverpool before the saiHng of the Ocean Queen.

CHAPTEll V,

The storm is changed into a oalm

At His command and will ; So that the waves, which raged befji.*.

Now quiet are and still.

Then are they glad, because at rest,

And quiet now they be : So to the haven He them brings,

Which they desired to see.

Psalm cvii. 29, ZQ.—Scotch Version.

These difficulties are nothing in reality. He that has an object in view so exciting as the acquisition of ability to preach Christ to the heathen, plods along without one thought of weariness or inconveni- ence ; loving to tread the rough furrows, because he sees them strewn with the promise of many a sheaf. — Rev, William Arthur.

The partings were mostly over beforehand, and the tranquillity and content of its autumn were filling the air of England on the day when the pilgrims left it. And the peace of God was keep- ing their minds. Mr Ritchie, the early and ardent promoter of the mission, and a few other friends, accompanied them to the ship, and, from the cheer- fulness of the voyagers, augured the best for the success of their expedition. They considered their preparations complete, and with hearts strong and hopeful, they bore away down the Mersey.*

* From Mr Ritchie's communication, already mentioned, we may- give the following particulars of the last hour at Liverpool. Captain Gardiner had not yet reached the vessel, which was already warping out of dock : " I endeavoured, however, to improve the precious mo- ments by carrying on a conversation from the wharf with our friends on the poop-deck, who were dressed in their sea-going garbs, and pro- tected from a hot September sun by broad-brimmed ' sombreros.' They seemed full of hope, and animated by a high and holy zeal for the great cause on which they were about to proceed ; and, judging from their healthful animated looks, they were as well adapted as any men ever

62 THE VOYAGE.

During the voyage, as well as afterwards in the place of his destination, Mr Williams kept a copious journal. This companion of his wander- ings, and confidant of all his musings, has survived many perils, and been sent home to its author's family. From its daily records we gather the following account of the voyage : —

" Saturday, September 7, 1850. — Came on board the Ocean Queen at eleven a.m. At noon hauled out of the Brunswick Dock Basin, and taken in tow by steam-tng.

" Fairly on board and standing out for the wide ocean, how varied were the emotions felt ! But the one above all others was a sense of joy at the cer-

were for tlie fatigues and privations which stared them in the face." " When Captain Gardiner aiTived, I particularly rememher asking him, with that frankness which became our intimacy, for how long a period he considered the provisions he was taking would serve the party ; to which he replied, ' About six months after arrival, even allowing we catch no fish nor kill any game.' I expressed my re,£;ret that he had not taken a twelvemonth's provision at once, especially when he was aware of the difficulty, if not impracticability, of hereafter landing any at the mission, — owners not wishing to allow their vessels to deflect from their course, to touch at so dangerous a coast as Tierra del Fuego. On this he gave me explanations, — based on the state of the funds of the Mission, the certainty of damage by wet and damj), and the exposure to robl)ery by the natives, — which, no doubt, were perfectly satisfactory to himself, and must also have been so to me, for I thouglit little further oa the subject. Shortly afterwards, about noon, the Ocean Queen was warped through the gates, and, following her tug-stcamcr, swam nobly down the vassal river, amid cheers from tlie pier-head, much augmented by the numerous friends of the San Francisco nnij;i-ant.s, and tlie response from on board, un- til ntlonc'tli sho was; h.'^t in the haze."

THE VOYAGE. b^

taiiity of now being actually engaged in the great work of making known the Saviour of the world, and that, too, to a poor benighted people — a race of savages.

" JSTow for the first time I saw those who were to be my companions in the work of faith. These I found (besides Captain Gardiner) consisted of my fellow-catechist Mr Maidment, Joseph Erwin, ship- carpenter, and our three boatmen from Mouseholc, near Penzance, — John Badcock, John Bryant, John Pearce.

" The vessel is bound for San Francisco, Cal'- fornia, being 568 tons burden, commanded by Captain H. S. Cooper, and carrying, besides our own party, a lady and gentleman from Liverpool, with their children and two servants, and four German Jews.

'•' Sunday, September 8. — Captain Gardiner con- ducted services in the cabin, morning and night ; but I could not venture to be present, — as yet un- able to bear the motion below.

"I have much enjoyed the day, and felt much of the goodness of God whilst pondering on my situation. Ilowevei', I can scarcely realise the actuality of my position and this novel change so suddenly brought about. — My poor dear friends !

" Thursday, September 12. — I have now had time to see something of my associates. The more I see of Captain Allen Gardiner, the more I admire his character. Day by day he opens up before nic in

64 THE VOYAGE.

some new and pleasing light. I am sure he will gain not only on my esteem, but also on my aft'ec- tions. Every morning he reads a chapter and ex- pounds it, and then prays. In the evening I or my fellow-catechist read the Scriptures and pray. I am greatly pleased and derive much edification from the enlightened and truly spiritual character of the Captain's observations on the Scriptures, and the unction which accompanies his prayers.

" One of our boatmen, John Pearce, is ill with continued fever, contracted before he left home, where fever was prevailing. He felt indisposed for a day or two before he came on board. May God preserve him to us, and enable me to act judiciously in the treatment of his case !

" Tuesday, September 17. — Lat. 39° 52', long. 18° 8^ Wind directly aft; sea very smooth; weather exceedingly fair and quite warm, so that we need only light clothing. The nights, too, are very beautiful. As things now are, a sea life is really very delightful. We expect to be off Madeii-a in a day or two, and have already a foretaste of its balm-breathing atmosphere and sunny clime.

" Our boatman, John Pearce, is happily much better ; and now, thank God, there is every hope of his speedy recovery. And what is very pleasing, there is ^no appearance of the fever spreading tu any others on board.

" We have been now ten days at sea. I begin to realise the fact without so much maziness and

THK VOYAGE. 65

wonder as I felt at first. The cliangc from iny accustomed avocations to a voyage for a distant land was so abrupt and sudden, that it was impos- sible not to feel occasionally startled at tlie newness of my position. Being unable, owing to the short- ness of time, to dispose of my practice, I was en- gaged up to the day of my leaving Burslem, with- out having so much as the opportunity of visiting absent friends, from whom I had already been separated for years past.

" When I reflect on the circumstances with v.'hich I had to contend in entering on this engage- ment, I feel how great a cause I have for thankful- ness to the grace of God which has sustained me, and enabled me to keep faithful to my purpose. Scarcely four months elapsed between my first hearing of the Patagonian Missions and my em- barkation. Settled in practice upwards of five years, Avith a large connexion, many friends, and some strong ties, to dissever myself from long-formed associations, and to settle all my affairs in so short a time, presented difliculties that at times seemed insuperable. However, from the moment of pledg- ing myself to the work, I had a firm confidence that I should be able to overcome every obstacle. But when the time of my departure drew near, and when, after every effort, my affairs were as far from settlement as ever, a fear for the first time crossed my mind as to Avhether it was really God's will that I should go. One morning, I awoke with

66 THE VOYAGE,

a feeling of sadness, which deepened upon me. And yet I saw that I. could never again be happy if anything prevented my going. I saw that I could never be the same man, nor look forward to a career of usefulness equal to the past, trifling as that had been. This state of mind continued till the evening of the second day, when suddenly light shone in upon my mind, and comfort and consolation filled my heart, I saw that I had been suffering from the tempter, but now God had restored his energizing grace and strength, and I resolved that nothing short of illness or death should prevent my going forth in his name. My friends who had greatly rejoiced at the momentary hope of my not leaving them, had now the sad disappointment of seeing me more firm in my purpose than ever. I felt for thee, my poor dear Annie, when I was necessitated to check again all thy rising hopes that thy brother would not leave thee. The flush of exultation was on thy cheek, the triumph of thy heart sparkled in thy eye, when 1 was obliged again to tell thee, * It cannot be. No : I must go. It is the will of God. Annie, I must go.' May God comfort the kindest and most tender-hearted of sisters that ever brother was blessed with 1 God comfort and sustain thee, Annie !

" I shall not readily forget the evening of my leaving Burslem. Though sad to part with so many dear old friends, yet to see such an assem-

THE VOVACiB. 67

blage of Christian brethren, each with a tear in his eye and a prayer on his lips, to wish me God speed, was sweetly touching to my heart. I do not forget you, my beloved friends. How happy is the thought that on so many praying lips my name will often find a place when the Holy One of Israel is sought in fervent devotion !

" Wednesday, Sept. 18. — Everything is so agree- able, that at present our voyage is like a pleasure trip. On deck, where we remain for the most part of the day, enjoying the warm sunshine and the fresh balmy breeze, witli a clear sky and the deep blue waters, with the ship steadily stealing away, and all clean and orderly around us, cheer- ful countenances and pleasing associates, — there seems scarce any thing awanting to contribute to our enjoyment. I have felt real happiness this day. Nothing has occurred that could make it otherwise. There has been communion betwixt my soul and God the whole day long. I have liad the Scriptures in my hand, reading and meditating the greater part of the day ; and the Word has been applied by the Spirit of Truth with refreshing power to my soul. I have been drinking of the river whose waters make glad the city of the living God. Now thrown entirely on the Lord, in body, soul, and spirit given up to God, seeking to draw nigher and closer unto Him whom I love and in whom I am chosen, aspiring after more of the precious influences of the Spirit of grace and love,

(38 THE VOYAGE.

desiring to be perfected in the knowledge and love of Christ, I have this day felt that God is willing to "give me far more abundantly than all I can ask or think. His banner has been spread over me, and the presence of Christ fills my heart with joys that are unutterable.

'"' This evening I commenced a class meeting, Erwin and the boatmen joining me. The Lord was graciously present to bless. I was much pleased with the simplicity and earnestness of their experience. Poor Erwin, who has not yet found Christ as his Saviour, was much affected, and, I believe, is not very far from the kingdom of God, May the Lord help him speedily to step in into the glorious hbcrty of the sons of God!

" Thursday. Sept. 19. — I am deriving much p-ood from witnessino- the Christian character exem- pliticd so strikingly in the person of our beloved Captain [Gardiner]. Truly he is a man of God. There is a devotedncss to God manifested by him delightful to witness ; a fervent piety with great simplicity of deportment, a high tone of exalted greatness of soul, with the absence of all pride or self-elevation. His mind is evidently deeply im- bued with the Word of Life. I sink utterly into nothingness by comparison with him. I esteem it a great privilege to have such a living example set before me. Hitherto I have had to struggle on unaided by man in my efforts to gain the mastery over an evil heart of unbelief. Now I feel I shall

THE VOYAGii. 60

derive great help and encouragcraent from seeing one far advanced in the way of hohness exemphfy- ing the graces of the Christian character. He has made me a present of two works written by him — Travels in Africa, and A. Voice from South America.

" Saturday, Sept. 21. — Had our last view of Madeira at noon, distant from us about fifty miles. A lovely day, — the thermometer in the cabin rang- ing above summer heat, — in the sun very hot. To- day I had occasion to go to the forecastle to attend on two of the sailors who were confined by sick- ness. This gave me an opportunity of talking to the men, and I had a long conversation with them, and endeavoured to impress their minds, by God's help, with thoughts concerning their own salvation. They hstened respectfully. Since coming onboard, I have been much affected by feeling myself pal- pably surrounded with wickedness on all hands. Happily the position is quite novel ; for, although I have been ever moving among the worldly and the profane, yet I have been able to retire from amongst them into the' seclusion of my own or some other quiet home. But now the harsh sound of vice reaches my ear all the day long, and I feel I am indeed a stranger and a pilgrim here. I bless the Lord that I look not for an abiding place, a continuing city amongst men, but that I am travel- ling with a consciousness of its being the wilder- ness, and looking forward to the rest which God

70 TUK VOYAGE.

hath prepared for his people. 'Twerc a sin against God to expect or seek a rest here in this world. Here we must labour and lay up our treasure with God. Here we must toil and patiently endure the burden and heat of the day. Here we must wage our warfare, and fight the good fight of faith. ' Behold, God will come with a recompence.' I will look forward and hasten unto the day of his appearing. I bless and praise God that I feel the Lord most graciously helping me, strengthening me, enlarging my faith, inspiring me with hope and confidence, and giving me sensibly to feel the tokens of his love. The sunshine of God is in my heart, — it feels the love of Christ.

" I do desire to glorify God. I long to love God with my whole soul. I seek and earnestly desire to have my every thought directed to the Lord. I truly wish for nothing the whole earth contains. I ask for nothing but grace to love God with all my heart, and mind, and soul, and strength, and, accep- ted of him, to be laid out and be spent in his ser- vice, to his honor and glory. With the world I have done, — with all its interests and pursuits, as far as feeling more attachment to them than as things with which, vfhilst it pleases God, I am for a moment connected. But my treasure and my heart are both in heaven. Grant, 0 Lord, that I may truly love tlice ! Gold is my heart toward thee ; 0 give me thy love ! Lord Jesus, hear and answer tliis my praycj. !

THE VOYAGE. 71

" Ah, my dear, — my beloved friends, how many have been your anxious thoughts ere this ! 0 may the Ahnighty God, who blesses me with his peace, and gives me to taste the sweet consolations of Christ, bless you also, and keep your hearts from all doubts and tormenting fears ! I am safe from all harm and secure from all evil in his hands. I wish I just could tell each one of jou. so. God bless you all. — The moment for our meeting to- gether in prayer has just arrived.

" Monday, Septemher 23. — Yesterday — the Sab- bath, we had a very delightful day. In the morning Captain Gardiner conducted the service, and read a sermon ; in the evening Mr Maidment. These ser- vices Avere held in the cabin, and there was a large muster of the ship's company present, and a pre- cious opportunity was afforded for sowing the seed of life. But I fear the opportunity was somewhat lost, for the reason that the discourses were not suitable and adapted to the minds of these poor ignorant men. I felt this at the time, and deter- mined to prepare a sermon for the next Sabbath evening, in dependence on Divine help.

" This evening I went forward to the forecastle in company with Mr Maidment. We found most of the bailors present, nothing being doing on deck, as there was a perfect calm. They had just concluded a very jovial song v,rith a boisterous chorus; and a party of them were engaged with cards. T treated them as u^Nitly a'? possible, and

72 THE VOYAGE.

as I have had an interview with many of them indi- vidually before, I managed to work my way pretty smoothly. The card-players, however, were very intent on their game, and tried to evade our notice. At length I asked them if they would allow me to pray with them, to which they consented. I had great liberty and access to God, and the men after- wards thanked me, and seemed to think I had done them a kindness. May the Lord bless the effort, made in his name, to their good !

" Wednesday, October 2. — Lat. 13° bT, long. 26° 35'. Light winds, and very hot. All the Jews ill with fever. Mrs T likewise ill. Ex- tracted a tooth for Captain C. Now that there is absolute need of my aid, I feel a high degree of gratification that I am able to afford assist- ance, and feel the value of my profession more, I think, than I ever did. What a pleasure to prac- tise medicine irrespective of pecuniary considera- tions ! How much more pleasurable to do good for its own sake, and to relieve the sufferings of our fellow-creatures, and to have our reward in the pleasure of doing so, than to connect therewith the gain of money ! Would circumstances have allowed it, I should willingly have practised without mak- ing any charge. How often did I regret that I had an expensive establishment to keep up, and wished it was but a cottage, and that I might prac- tise as a poor man amongst the poor ! I never desired to increase my connexion amongst the

THE VOYAGE. 73

more respectable ; for so much unnecessary for- mality was required by them, and with them I had not the same privilege of addressing them in the language of affectionate concern, or of offering spiritual advice to their souls. The poor have genei-ally some consciousness of their spiritual as well as temporal destitution, and they are more frequently accessible to a kindly intended act of Christian philanthropy. But the rich and the respectable feel that their worldly position entitles them to consideration, and they expect that defer- ence should be paid as well to their opinions as to their rank ; hence, they are offended by any dis- play of a disposition to teach and instruct them. 'Thou wast altogether born in sin,' is their lan- guage, 'and dost thou teach us?' In the happy change now presented to me in prospect, may God grant that I may live unweariedly employed in doing good, and enjoy the sweet charm of a life spent in beneficence to others, and those others a race of beings who have scarcely ever felt the Sow- ings of human kindness toward them ! O Jesus, blessed Saviour, let these poor heathen, to whom thou art sending us, taste of thy precious love, and know thee in the riches of thy infinite mercy! Darkest and most wretched of the human race, my precious Saviour, it will be a fit occasion to serve thee, in displaying thy goodness to ransom vile man in his utmost degradation, and thy wil- lingness that not one should perish, but that all

74

THE VOYAGE.

men should be saved. Lord Jesus, it is thy will these should behold a great light shining forth from th}^ presence in their darkness. 0 let thy Spirit of grace go in advance of us, and dispose their hearts to receive thy truth !

" Thursday, October 3.— Bless God ! I feel the Lord is good and gracious to my soul. He is drawing me by the cords of his love. Jesus is be- coming more and more pi'ccious ; my he*art feels more true interest and delio-ht in hhn. I more clearly feel now, what, for a time, I failed to expe- rience, that even when my heart would withdraw from the Lord, at a time when doubts and evil thoughts were suggested— that then, as at all other times, Jesus is waiting to hear our cry for help. When perplexed by a sense of the evil of my heart, struck with its hardness and insensibility, impressed with its base ingratitude and forgetful- ness of God, and horrified with the vile thouo-hts injected into my mind, — how often have I kept my eye fixed on my condition, until I could scarce lift it up to God, and with a weak faith have hesi- tated to approach my beloved Lord ! But now I happily know that, — feel what I may of the work- ings of evil within, however strong the evidence of my own baseness, — so far from keeping me from applying to Jesus, this is the greater reason for my instant looking up to him as 'the Lord my Righteousness.' I bless God for a hveher trust in the atonement of the blood of Christ, and for a

THE VOYAGE. 75

more assured trust in Jesus, as my ever-willing, ever-able, and ever-present Saviour. How does my heart cleave to thee, my Lord !' Assuredly whilst I have hold upon thee, my ransom and plea, my surety and trust, my hope and my joy, my portion and my only love, all is, all will be well.

" Wednesday, October 23. — Crossed the line at about three a.m.

"Friday, 25. — Left off smoking and taking snuff. Gave my tobacco and meerschaum to Erwin, my canister of snuff to the captain."

The foregoing extracts give a pleasing impres- sion of the writer. They bring out his tender affection for his friends, the humanity and kindli- ness of his nature, and that delightful disposition which makes the most of the present and hopes the best for the future. They also evince his habitual watchfulness over himself, and his firm faith in a Divine sanctifying agency ; and they glow with that adoring affection to the Saviour which is the surest sign of piety, and the richest source of per- sonal excellence. We think they can scarcely fail to edify the reader and endear the writer.

But amidst these records of Christian experience, some may regard the homely details of the follow- ing passage as a dreadful descent. We have no such feeling. It is in such contests that the reality of men's faith and the value of their " fi-ames " aro tested. And the Christianity, however rapturous,

76 THE VOYAGE.

which has never renounced a besetting sin, nor conquered a bad habit, is too hke the patriotism which is confined to toasts and national melodies, or the fihal piety which, offering fond words and embraces in lieu of solid services, tries to be at once dutiful and self-indulgent. Mr Williams was honest. He believed that it was God's will that he should give up a certain gratification ; and, though some would have tried to evade the sacrifice, though they w^ould have offered confessions of their own weakness or high-flown protestations of their general devotedness, in lieu of this particular obedience, it was not thus deceitfully that he dealt with his heavenly Father and with himself.

Nor should we be sorry if Mr Williams's ex- ample should find imitators amongst our readers. It is true that Dr Parr and Robert Hall were smokers. It is true that many good men are fond of the " naughty foreign weed," and that Halph Erskine " spiritualised " it. And it may be true that under its influence the spirits are serene, the temper mild, and the entire man in a state of comfortable self-complacency. But w^e prefer the temper which is independent of tobacco ; and Ave fear that in its self-complacency there is some- thing illusive. At least we have known friends who, under its influence, fancied themselves far up Parnassus, but when the fog cleared away it proved only a spur of tlie luuuntain : and al- though, among our college companions, we reuiem-

THE VOYAGE. 77

ber clever men who smoked, whilst their duller neighbours studied; and altliough, in the mist of the meerschaum, they used to espy gigantic figures, which they hailed as their own glorious future; now that the " morgana " has melted, there is a sad contrast betwixt the cloudy colossus and the slip-shod original from which it was projected, and into which the stern day-light had resolved it again.

At all events, a minister, and much more a missionary, should deem himself a soldier, and the less dependent he is on these time- wasting enjoy- ments, the more lightly will he march, and the more ready will he be for instant action. Besides, a soldier must endure hardness. It is good for a man's Christianity to be the victor, even in such a contest as the battle with tobacco. Every success makes him a stronger and a happier man; — yes, and a great deal richer. In this warfare there is always prize-money. And if the reader is a lover of books, or if, with a most benevolent heart, he is always lamenting his empty hand, let him attack and spoil this enemy. The cigar-case will soon fill a handsome book-case ; and were the snuff-box of the British churches converted into a box of charity, it would maintain all our missionaries, and would soon pay the debts of our chapels and schools.*

* For smoking, chewing, and snuffing. Great Britain pays a ycai-Ty bill of seven millions. Docs she spend as much on books oi- bene- volence ]

78 THE VOYAGE.

"Saturday, Oct. 26. — S. lat. 6° 34", long. 32° 14". This has been a day ever to be remembered. The lio-ht of the Lord's countenance has broken upon me, after having severely felt that clouds of darkness were around me. For more than a month before leaving England I had given up the practice of smoking and taking snuff. The former habit I had practised for seven or eight years ; the latter only occasionally ; in fact, it was in consequence of leaving off smoking that I had recourse to a pinch as an occasional substitute. At various times I have been under strong impressions that I ought to leave it oft', and have felt dissatisfied with myself for the self-indulgence. But the cravings after it were become so strong, and the will of the flesh so urgently demanded it, that it was no easy task to overcome the propensity. There is a charm in tobacco powerfully beguiling to the senses. Whe- ther this arises from its sootliing and sedative quality, or from its being generally associated with self-indulgence — serving as a plea for idleness, and for a general relaxation of the whole man, body and mind — certain it is, that tobacco has a power of enslaving its votaries to a remarkable degree. No one has ever been more enslaved than I have been; yet many times has my conscience smitten me, and frequently whilst in the act of smoking I have been obliged to lay the pipe aside. At times I thought I would leave it oft' altogether. Accordingly, I have given away or burnt the stock

THE VOYAGE. 70

of tobacco I had in hand, broken m j pipes, and for days essayed to do withont it. What cravings — • what a sense of bereavement have I felt ! None but an old smoker can have any idea of my miser- able longings. I have envied the hodman and the meanest person Avith his short black pipe. The very perfume was a treat — to inhale it a respite. Vain were the efforts thus made. A toothache, some bodily disease, or the persuasion of others, induced a renewal of the habit, and its bond be- came stronger than ever. But the fiat had gone forth, ' Crucify the flesh with its affections and lusts ; ' and, blessed be God, there was One in mo greater than all that were against me. Conscience became more and more severe upon me. At length I resolved to leave it off, and happily suc- ceeded without experiencing any uncomfortable effects. This was six weeks before leavino- Eno-- land. During that time I kept firm my resolution, though, in lieu of smoking, I had recourse to snuff". Some of my friends, who thought I was going to unnecessary lengths of self-denial, would put up for me, amongst the equipments for my voyage, both tobacco, cigars, and a canister of snuff, and tliey made me promise to purchase a meerschaum. "Well, I thought, circumstances may possibly bo such as to render it desirable to have them; so I yielded to then' wish. On board I could not resist the temptation of taking a cigar — sucli was my weakness; giving them freely away, and smoking

tSO THE VOYAGE.

tliem daily, my stock was soon exhausted; but all the cravings for tobacco were re-acquired. I took to the meerschaum, but with the indulgence came the condemnation. My conscience would not allow me to continue ; so I gave the canister of snuff to the captain of the ship, and reserved only a small quantity. Captain Cooper likewise had my meer- schaum, on condition of my not requiring it again. Three or four days passed without having recourse to him for it, but never did I suffer such craving after it. My stomach became affected, and my spirits so depressed, that I was compelled to ask for it again. With a sense of great bodily rehef and comfort, I smoked it ; but, alas ! my condem- nation was great. Hurriedly opening a book in my hand, the question of the Psalmist was pre- sented to my eye, ' Lord, who shall abide in thy tabernacle ? who shall dwell in thy holy hill ? He that sweareth to his own hurt, and changeth not.' These words were applied to my mind most for- cibly. I was condemned. But now 1 saw my duty : and, suffer what I might, I resolved to give up the practice in all its forms. Having sought mercy and forgiveness with the Lord, and his grace to helj) me, I gave away, in good earnest, all my tobacco, my pipe, and my snuff-box, and I threw overboard the small quantity of snuff 1 had reserved. Thus a complete riddance was effected. " Friday, November 1. — This day has been a most happy one. Never, I think, did I enjoy

■V

%tLE VOYAGE. 81

sweeter peace, nor feel a love so ardent and per- sonal towards God my Saviour. The years of my life have rolled before me, and the various epochs and cl^aracteristic phases thereof have presented themselves to me in a new and strikino- lio-ht. The way of God with me, and his gracious dealing, in leading me through all the stages of my career, have exhibited instances multiphed indeed of in- finite goodness, mercy, and love. But as yesterday I was the companion of schoolboys, drinking deep of the spirit of wonder, and opening up new worlds at every turn of my path, counting on the future of this life as an indefinite period, and on the scenes of this world's labors as an expanse with- out limits. Then manhood arrived. Ambition led the way — a desire to live among the names that die not, and to devote my life to the pursuit of knowledge. The hand of necessity, as it then seemed, but truly the hand of God, urged me on from one point to another, and never at any period of my life have I taken up a position as the result of my own forethought and determination. Even when blinded through the ignorance that was in me, I was led by a way that I knew not. And now I behold myself in a new scene, and my heart rejoices to acknowledge the goodness and love of God in eventuatino- this. A beautiful thought filled my mind this afternoon, and swelled it to a i-apture of joy. It was this : Come what will, — change and change as circumstances may, yea,

I"

82 THE VOYAGE.

come death itself, that last great change — still con- sciousness will not be interrupted. That consciousness Avhicli identifies with the being that now thinks and feels, the being which years ago played in childish gambols, will bear onward a living remembrance of the past whilst it enters the scenes of eternity. AVhat, then, is death ? It has lost its sting. I feel no fear of it. I feel that nothing can hinder the enjoyment of existence, — the continuous conscious- ness and immortality of that within me, — the soul that has eternal life in Christ. How contented, therefore, am I with my state ! and, by the grace of God, I trust to exult in tribulation, rejoicing in hope of the glory of God. It was with a joyful sense of this truth, and in the perception of God's love in thus calling me to eternal life, that my soul became full of love to Jesus my Saviour. From the ground of my heart I praised him. Glory be to the Lamb of God for ever and ever ! My soul rejoiced at the thought of an endless existence, be- cause I could then everlastingly love my Saviour, and glorify God in him. Life everlasting was in- finitely desirable and precious, for such a reason and upon such terms. 0 Lord Jesus ! thou hast broken in upon my soul in the light of thy OAvn revealing Spirit, shedding thy love abroad in my heart. My heart and soul cry out unto thee, and tell thee I love thee ! "

From a letter written by Mr Williams to his friend Mr Jones, and dated November 5, 1850,

fe.

THE VOYAGE. 83

■we give a few extracts. It not only gives a resume of the voyage thus far, out it introduces us to the companions of our missionary :—

" Our voyage has hitherto been a very fair one : we have no rouo-h weather. We were for a con- siderable length of time delayed by variable winds and calms as we approached the Line ; but as far as weather is concerned, this lias been our prin- cipal trouble. I felt the heat greatly. Our berths at night were more like ovens than anything else. "We have had the fever prevailing greatly among us ; three of our men — the boatmen — have had it, besides five or six others ; and although I have had some ground for anxiety, yet, thank God, all have recovered remarkabl^^ The Lord has been our keeper. He has stayed the pestilence. Unto him be the praise.

" AVe expect to make our destination in about three weeks. On getting there, our intention is, -^ in the first place, by the help of the crew, to dig an entrenchment around the site of our future residence, and inside of this to raise up high walls all round. This on a small islet, just big enough for the purpose, situate betwixt Picton Island and Garden Island, close to them both. The vessel, which has been rather leaky, it is intended to over- haul when we get to Picton Island ; and it is pro- bable that she will therefore stay with us a week, if not longer. As soon as she leaves, it is our in- tention to start also on a cruise of discovery, going

84 THE VOYAGE.

for that purpose to the north--west, into Beagle Clianncl, and to the west of Navarin Island, and among other places to Woolja, the place where Jemmy Button, a Fuegian taken to England by- Captain FitzRoy, Avas left on his return from Eng- land, after three years' absence. If we can make him out, doubtless it may prove very advantage- ous to us. At all events, we mean to purchase,* if we can, two lads about ten or twelve years of age, and take them back with us, and from them acquire the language. Our cruise may perhaps last two or three months. This, however, is uncer- tain. We are well provided with boats, having two very large ones with us, besides two gigs to attend on their seniors. We are well supplied with provisions.

" Captain Gardiner is much what I expected him to be. For indomitable perseverance he is unquestionably to be ranked among men of the first class, and his life is that of an exact and strict disciplinarian. As a Christian, he is devout and unaffected, and most sincere. I am indeed far, fiir short of him. 1 am more conscious of my defects since I have been able to compare myself with him. I see that I am a mere vacillator and weak believer, in contrast with his stability and strict in-

* Of course Mr Williams only means that it was intended to bor- row the children from their parents for a certain time, making the parents such a present as would secure tlieir consent. A button was the consideration for which Jemmy's parents made him over to Captain FitzRoy.

THE VOYAGE. 85

tegrity. I. am greatly pleased with all my com- panions. Mr Maidment, my fellow-catechist, is an amiable, kind, and worthy man ; and one becomes more attached to him, and respects him more, the more you know him. He is very sincere and humble, and I fully believe a child of God. Our three young men, having been much afflicted, have exhibited their different characters strikingly. Poor Bryan, who was worst, has shewn a very meek and patient disposition, full of resignation and a simple-hearted lov« to Christ. Badcock, Avho is the eldest and biggest of the three, is, I am persuaded, the subject of divine grace. He, too, is remarkably meek, but there is a somewhat timid or nervous cast of mind in him. John Pearce is a rough, just, honest, and upright man, but with a little touch of independence of spirit which, subdued by grace and properly directed, will rather prove an advantage. Erwin, our ship-carpenter, is the most dapper, sprightly, and excellent fellow I have met for a long time. He is a summary of good quali- ties, good sense, kind disposition, unassuming de- portment,— and useful for all purposes; just the man we want to help and comfort us in all exigen- cies. Every one of them has had to encounter gr^at objections and many persuasions not to go on such an enterprise. But God provides all. Ho is with us. How delightful is his service ! How do I rejoice that it is my calling to declare Christ, to publish such glad tidings to a poor abject race !

80 THE VOYAGE.

llojoico Avith me, brother Jones, whilst in the words of Mar J I would saj, ' ]My soul doth magnify the Lord, and my spirit hath rejoiced in God my Saviour.' "

Returning to the Journal, under " Thursday, November 28," we find the following entry : —

" To-day, at about eight o'clock in the morning, we passed the Straits of Magellan ; and, having had a splendid breeze all day, we are at this time ■ — -ten P.M. — considerably advanced toward the Strait of Le Maire, which we hope to pass through to-morrow. We are now happily bringing our voyage to a close. To-day the sun has shone very brilliantly, and this evening it has poured a bril- liant flood of lio-ht around us. Its setting was as fine a scene as anything we have witnessed during our voyage, and has greatly cheered us, taking it as an earnest that we shall not bo altoo-ether wanting bright days and sunny visitations, and likewise deemino" it in our fancies as a welcome paid us by Fuegia's luminary.

^'Friday, November 29. — To-day at half-past one A.M. we first had a sight of the mountains of Ticrra del FuGgo. At that time I heard the chief mate awake the Captain, and inform him of the fact. I was singularly impressed with the idea that we were in danger. The thought crossed my mind several times, but without affecting me with any anxiety, but inducing mo to call upon the Lord with reliance and trust upon him. I had no

THE VOYAGE.

87

ground whatever for the surmise at the thiie, heai'- iiiD' no intimation to that effect, and I was surprised when I afterwards learned from the second mate, that in consequence of the men not keeping a good look-out, we had well-nigh run ashore just at that time.

" At about half-past four, Captain Gardiner awoke mc, and told me the land was well in sight. I arose and went on deck. There was Tierra del Fuego, sure enough ; its snow^-tipped mountains w'ere looming through the vapors of the morning sky, and the land of Fuegia threw a faint cold smile upon us, and greeted us with a rough, but, doubtless, a hearty shake of the hand; for truly enough we shivered, if not at the sight of it, yet, with cold. At eight o'clock we were off the entrance of the Strait of Le Mairc ; but the wind being adverse, \\e could not take advantage of the tide Avliich set at that hour. Consequently, we had to lie off, and beat between the two coasts of Staten Island and the mainland. We had thus abundant opportunity for seeing this remarkable land, particularly Staten Island, and likewise abun- dant experience of the extreme disagreeableness of our proximity to the Strait of Le Maire. The swell from the ocean here rising in opposition to the tide-race produces a scene altogether novel to us ; the sea seems literally alive ; its commotion is extreme. Abreast the land in particular, and extending two or three miles out, or more, there

88 THE VOYAGE.

is the appearance of innumerable breakers, and the white spray dashes its waters about in the wildest manner. The wind blowing strong from the S.E., we rolled about, owing to it and the tide-race and swell combined, far more than we should have done in an ordinary gale. At three o'clock we hoped to have an opportunity again, it being ebb-tide, to pass through ; but though Ave tried, it was impossible, the wind continuing un- favorable. We have thus during the day, it being now nearly eleven p.m., had ample experi- ence of Fuegian weather. If we must take it for a sample, it is certainly none of tlie best ; — sudden puifs of wind, with ominous gathering of dark clouds, and a chilly aspect of the whole heavens, with a conviction seizing your mind, that you are going to have a snow-storm, which apprehension is converted into the slighter infliction of a thin driv- ing but sharp sleet, or, as I expect we may yet lind, into a thumping hail-storm ; and then the mist on the mountains clears up, and exposes a few glimmering rays of the sun, burnishing their sides of snow.

" In excellent keeping with the rough and win- try climate is the aspect of the land. Words can never do justice to its frowning, wild, and wintry character. Staten Island must certainly be un- equalled in this respect. It is a place of dreariness and of forlorn solitude, par excellence. Its bare, broken, jagged, turret-like hills, present the i^lca

THE VOYAGK. 89

of an iiniTiCnsc lortrcss, erected by uature herself on her own grand scale, and designed to imprison an unmolested solitude ^Yithiu its ■walls, and to frown back all attempts on the part of man to disturb her here. It is no wonder that it never has been inhabited. It seems from a distance as though it were clad in some hard and impenetrable covering, saving the snows on its ridges and slopes, of one uniform russet brown colour.

" I have not felt disturbed bv any means. This I must attribute to the grace of God only, and to no resolution or constancy of my mind; for who can dchght more than I in sunny scenes? But, praise God, I feel I can well forego all earthly joys, if the Lord will graciously vouchsafe to bless my soul, and endow me with the riches of his grace. I was greatly strengthened while in prayer this morning. At this the uttermost end of the earth, and where there is less in climate, land, or people, to cheer the mind, than at almost any other spot of the world, if God has a work for me to do, and his blessing rests upon me whilst engaged therein, then God's lioly will be done in me and by me, let the circumstances surrounding, or the events awaiting me, be what they will. At the time of writing this it is blowing hard, and the thermometer in the cabin, shut up around me, stands at 52°. I am indeed glad to wrap up now.

" Saturday, November 30. — Our tweh'tli week at sea. At four o'clock this morning, our sliip

90 THE VOYAGE.

having worked about all night, with a strong head wind from the S.S.W., we were in the same posi- tion ; and our bearings off Cape San Diego, at the entrance of the Strait of Le Maire, were much tlie same as they were yesterday morning at eight o'clock. Wind and tide against us had beaten us back from all attempts hitherto made to enter the Strait; but now, taking advantage of an ebb-tide and a strong wind, the Captain carried on a heavy canvas, and finally about mid-day we got througli the Strait. It Avas a hard contest, and we did but just escape the lee-shore of Staten Island, as we weathered Cape St Bartholomew. All the day long we have continued to beat about under sino-le-reefed topsails, having, especially during the night, very violent squalls and a tremendous sea, shipping- heavy seas on our poop. What with the extreme gloom of the weather, snow, sleet, hail, and rain, and foo-s, intermixed with a drivino- cold S.S.W. Avind, bloAving hard, with the dashing of the billows over us, and the rolling and pitching of the vessel, our position Avas by no means agi'eeable. Such Avas the pitching and constant motion of the vessel, that it induced a momentary attack of sea-sickness Avith me, whilst my poor friend Mr Maidment sufl:ered very severely, as indeed he has done throughout the voyage whenever the Aveather has been rough.

" The following day, Sunday, Avas passed beat- ing about, Avith much the same Aveather prevailing,

THE VOYAGE. 91

the thermometer in the cabin standing most of the day at 42° and 44° Fahr.

" Surely Fiiegia is the land of darkness, the country of gloom, a scene of wild desolation, both land and climate agreed as to character, the one frowning and desolate, the other black and tem- pestuous. A few, and only a few, cheering smiles has the sun beamed upon us, and the cold snows upon the rough masses of Staten Island put on an unnatural appearance, and looked more and more pale under the reviving influences of the light. If such the land, and such the climate, we have reason to expect the people will not fall short of congruity with either. Well, and how do I bear up under these not very flattering prospects? Have I had my expectations pointed to such an agreeable picture ? What shall I say ? I will own the truth. I have not been ignorant of the fact, that such was the character of the reoion to which I was bound. Captain FitzRoy, and especially Mr Darwin, in his ' Journal,' had made this sufficiently clear, yet I certainly had not in any degree realised it. How different is the acquaintance wo get by reading, from that which we acquire by personal experience of things ! In our parlours at home wo do not shiver at the cold scenes we read of, but rather enjoy by contrast our present com- forts. It is singular that amidst all the working of my mind in connexion with this great undertaking,

never contemplated it in the character of one oi

92 THK VOVAUE.

great suffering and great trial. I was not ignor- ant that such it would assuredly prove itself to be, but I troubled not myself with the thought- of it. I have all along felt that it was required at my hand to make the sacrifice of everything to God ; but I have had some such feelino; as was suffo'ested by Abraham to his son Isaac, when he was on his way to the altar, with the wood on his back whereon he should be offered, that thouQ-h thus palpably going to the fiery ordeal, yet God w^ould provide for himself a lamb for the sacrifice. The truth is, I could in anticipation cast all my care so entirely upon the Lord, that I took no other care but to ascertain that it was his will that I should thus serve him, assured that in the hour of my need he would strengthen my heart, and be with me to sustain me. Have I then been taken unawares ? No. Have I been disappointed ? No. The hour has come ; and though I have never painted to my mind all that I should have to encounter, yet I am not any the less unpre- pared for the trial, because I have not to grapple with it in my own strength, nor to prepare myself for the encouutci'. I verified tliis yester- day (Sunday) morning in a remarkable manner, whilst engaged in reading the 12th of Romans. God's Holy Spirit engaged my soul in fervent prayer for grace to help me. I was led to offer up my body as a living sacrifice unto God, and with my whole heart consenting, with my entire will

THE VOYAGE. 93

prostrate and subjected to the will of God, that I might prove what is His good, and acceptable, and perfect will. I surrendered myself into the hand of the Lord Jesus, with so complete a trust in him, and love to him. as it was indeed delio-htful to feel; and how shall I praise the mercy and grace, and condescendiuo; (goodness of God ! I felt a sensible manifestation of God to my soul, accepting my ojffer. My heart was broken by a sense of God's love, that streamed in upon it, and my tears and upheaving breast idone could speak my gratitude and praise. Praise, praise to the Lord !

" To-day, Monday, December 2, after a some- what more favorable nio;ht, though making but little headway, at eleven o'clock we were off Cape Hall, Cape Good Success bearing north (true), and we now expect to weather Cape Pio, and tliis after- noon make Picton Island.

" Tuesday, Decemher 3. — Made httle advance upon yesterday, the wind being right ahead.

'•' Wednesday, December 4. — Since Monday, we have been making laborious efforts to weather Cape Pio, in Slogget Bay, but until this evening we have been unsuccessful, the wind blowing right ahead, and wearing ship and tacking about being both in vain. This evening we have, however, succeeded, and but for hazv weather we mi2;ht soon have our anchor down. Each day lias been cold and squally, with hail ani sleet and ruin ; the sun has only occasionallv been visible : at sunset he has been

94 THE VOYAGE.

most conspicuous, and last evening it -vyas as splen- did and brilliant a sight as any we have witnessed durino' the vovage. The land alono- the shore has still the same general characteristics, bold and mountainous, dark and frownino". The men have been sadly harassed at their duties ever since we hove in sight of this land of storms. Exposed to drifting snow squalls, and huge seas like cascades pouring their volumes of water upon them, their plight has been really pitiable, and they, as well as every one else, have been anxiously expecting to get to Banner Cove. But if all the rest have felt the disappointment, I have reason to bless God. Yesterday and to-day, but more especially to-day, have been the brightest for spiritual enlargement and joy in God of any I have known since I have been on board. Graciously, indeed, has the Lord blessed me, taking away every doubt, removing every fear, confirming my hopes, and strengthen- ing my heart. By his grace I have been able cheerfully and willingly to subject myself into an entire obedience, and to yield myself up to him, for him to do with me whatsoev'^er it pleaseth him. I have seen clearly that all has been ordered of God, and that he will abundantly crown the Avork with success. Plainly have I seen that he who said, ' And this gospel of the kingdom shall be preached in all the world, for a witness to all na- tions, and then shall the end come,' hath required it at our hands, to plant his gospel in this the

THE VOYAGE. 95

uttermost end of the world. And, blessed be God, I have experienced sensibly this day that I am a son of God — the Holy Ghost witnessing and shed- ding abroad the love of God in my heart. Sweetly have I realised that I am one v.-ith Christ, and have the Spirit which raised up Christ from the dead. Now do I feel how merciful the Lord is, and how tender is his compassion; and now am I able, in some poor degree, to comprehend with all saints, what is the love of Christ, which passeth all know- ledo'e. IS^ow do I feel that the Lord has blessed me, and prepared me for liis work, giving me the whole armour of God. Now I can rejoice with joy unspeakable and full of glory. Now can I say that the peace of God, which passeth all understanding, keeps my heart and mind ; and that

" Not a cloud doth arise To darken my eyes.

" Thursday, December 5. — At eleven o'clock this morning, we cast anchor in Banner Eoads, having by the mercy of God arrived safe at our des- tination. The whole of last night was foggy, with a heavy drizzling rain, and the wind still ahead. The Captain made short tacks, and with scarce any possibility of telling whether we made any pro- gress, or how we were moving. When about tour o'clock it became clear enough to see, our position was happily and providentially found to be greatly in advance of our expectations, Avith every certainty of continuing to make way to our anchorage groimd.

96 TUB VOYAGE.

About nine, whilst drifting on past Picton Island, we observed lying off Garden Island three canoes, which presently put off to us, each one containing a Fuegian and his family, more or less numerous. In each there were two women and children, in one an infant at the breast, in another a poor decrepit old man. Whilst scarcely discernible with the naked eye, we heard their stentorian voices, shouting ' Yammer schooner ' [Give mc] : — amazing indeed is the power of their voice. As they severally hove in sight, they gesticulated and shouted with every wild and remarkable expression, one man in par- ticular being very garrulous, and full of vivacity. The impression they made on my mind, as they became distinctly seen, first by the telescope and afterwards by the naked eye, is one which can never be effaced. It seemed incredible they could be human beings. You observed a lop-sided strange \incouth tiling on the water, not to be called a boat, and not realising our ideas of a canoe, but so deep, that just the heads of the Fuegians could be seen in it. As these dark masses of hair, like so many mops, drew nearer, we were able to discern the features, which were, indeed, surprising to us. On a nearer inspection, however, I could trace in many of them, indeed I may say in all, the lineaments of the noblest humanity, and features expressive of benevolence and generosity, though, as it were, buried deep in deplorable ignorance and abject want. One woman had a remarkably prepossess-

THE VOYAGE. 97

ing countenance, very open and cheerful ; so also had one of the men, and he often in our after inter- course laughed heartily. I had taken some comfort to my mind, from the favorable aspect wliicli the islands around us, particularly Picton and Garden Islands, presented ; but now my lieart swelled with emotion, full of pleasure and satisfaction that our errand was for the purpose of imparting benefits so great and so much needed to these poor crea- tures. I hailed the prospect with a degree of rapture."

Such was the cheerful spirit with which Mr Williams surveyed the field of his destined labors. But he made its acquaintance under great advan- tages. Being December, it was the Antarctic midsummer ; and, like the climate, the natives wore their best faces. They wanted food and trinkets from the strangers; and as long as their visitors remained on ship-board they were safe from tricks and violence. — But, before proceeding with the narrative, it may be well to introduce the reader to the place and the people. Wo shall thus better understand how arduous was the task which these pious pilgrims had undertaken, and shall be able to sympathise more fully in the great fight of afflic" tions which they were soon to pass through.

CHAPTER VI.

Cil

Th' eternal Monarcli from on high Cast on the sons of earth his eye, If haply some he yet might see True to their God, from error free.

He look'd ; but ah ! not one could find To virtue's Heaven-taught rules inclined ; Each, led from wisdom's path astray. Pursues the tenor of his way.

Psalm liii. 2, 3. — Memck.

What renders it much more diflScult to convey divine truths to the understandings of these Indians, is, that there seems to be no founda- tion in their minds to begin upon. Besides, their inconvenient situa- tions, savage manners, and unhappy method of living, have been an unspeakable difficulty and discouragement to me in my work.— David Brainerd.

The outline of South America may be compared to a paper kite ; and, like a kite, there is attached to its apex a jointed tail, of which Fuegia and the South Shetlands are the only fragments seen above water. In other words, the mighty wall of the Andes is broken through by the sea, and the inundated valley forms the Strait of Magellan ; and, after a feeble re-appearance in the Fuegian archipelago, the cordillera is lost in the ocean.

As seen on a school-room map, this Tierra del Fuego is a dim islet, deriving its chief importance from its famous headland. Capo Horn. On a nearer inspection, however, this nebulous patch resolves into a cluster of islands,— one very large, with a croAvd of smaller attendants to the west and south ; and, far from the mainland, stands the kerbstone of the New World, — Cape Horn with his surf-beaten pyramid.

Though only tlic fag-end of America — a mere caudal vertebra of the Andes — if wc had it ia

102 l^UEGIA.

Europe, Tierra del Fuego would be a country of some consideration. Its second-rate islands are larger than the Isle of Wight or the Isle of ]\Ian, and the surface of its mainland is equal to the Low- lands of Scotland. Its climate, however, renders it one of the most dreary and inhospitable regions on the face of the globe. In a latitude correspond- ing to Edinburgh, the sky seldom clears, and ihe rainy squalls of the summer are the only relief from the sleet and snow of the winter. A calm sunshine is a great rarity. If we imagined the mountains of the Hebrides rising to a height of six or seven thousand feet, with glaciers coming down to the sea, and a warm tide constantly flow- ing at their base ; and if, moreover, we could bring the north polar ice into as low a latitude as the An- tarctic ice descends — our own Western Isles would be the counterpart of Fuegia. The warm vapor of the ocean would then be perpetually condensing on the frost of the hills, and clouds and showers would blot out from Mull and Skye their occasional days of clear weather. Even then, however, our Western Isles would be halcyon nests compared with this stormy archipelago. Nothing save a rampart of mountains, a mile or two in height, extending from the Cape Ycrdes to Campbelton, damming up tlie winds, and forcing ihcm to rush through a few funnels on the Sound of Jura, could give our Northern Ilcniisphcre a fac-siniilc of a Fucgian willkvaiv. This ferocious wind is capable

FUEGIA. 103

of overturning- almost any obstacle ; and, like grass in a swathe, not only branches but whole trees will sometimes be found piled up at the mouth of a gully where its rough sickle has passed.

Notwithstanding its boisterous summers and its perpetual storms, the average temperature of Fuegia is as high as Quebec or Montreal; and perhaps we have in London days as cold as any which occur in Hoste or Navarin Islands. The rano-e between the extremes of heat and cold is small, and this comparative equability, along with the abundant moisture, is favorable to certain forms of veaetable life. In most districts of Britain the Fuchsia is a conservatory plant ; but in Devon- shire and in the Isle of Bute it grows luxuriantly in the open air, and in winter wants no shelter. Fuegia is one of its native lands, and there, along with its equally delicate companion, Veroiiica de~ cussata, it becomes a tree with a trunk half a foot in diameter. The potato is indigenous on the adjacent mainland, although we do not know that it has been found in these islands, where celery, a species of currant, the berry of an arbutus, and a fungus, are the only esculents. The characteristic veo-etation is two sorts of beech-tree. One of these {Fagus hetuloides) is an evergreen ; the other {Fagus Antarctica) is deciduous. The latter species is more hardy, and can scale the mountain- sides to a higher platform than its glossy -green companion ; so that in winter a zone of leatless

104 FDEGIA.

trees is seen at a lofty elevation, succeeding to the verdure of the forest. Except veliere discouraged b}^ the thin granitic soil, these beeches occur every- Avhere ; and, except Avhen stunted by the winds, they attain a goodly size; and one trunk is mentioned seven feet in diameter. But any tourist who expects a repetition of our own Buckinghamshire in the forests of Fuegia will be wofully disappointed. Our woodland scenery owes all its charm to its park-like variety, where clumps of many kinds occur ; and where, from the sylvan labyrinth, you easily emerge on smooth pastures and smoking* hamlets. But it is a very different thing to land from a boat direct in the tliicket, and after struggling to the top of a Mount Tarn or a Mount Buckland, to look down on an expanse of silent greenery, only broken by shipless arms of the sea ; and any one who has spent many weeks among the pines of the Black Forest or the Arbor Vitse SAvamps of the Mississippi, will understand what an incubus on the spirits a monotonous vegetation becomes. In Tierra del Fuego the only varie- gating incident is " the bursting of the leaf and flower-buds of the deciduous beech from their resinous gummy scales ; when a delightfully fra- grant odour pervades the woods ; " * and the explorer may be occasionally rewarded by coming on a Winter's Bark or some less usual tree.

* Hooker's Flora Antarctica, p. 348.

FUEGIA.

105

Land animals are few. Even insects are rare ; rnd such flies and beetles as occur, are inconspi- cuous and uninteresting creatures. Like Ireland, Fuegia is exempt from serpents, and even frogs have been expelled by its St Patrick. " The gloomy woods are inhabited by few birds ; occa- sionally the plaintive notes of a tyrant fly-catcher may be heard ; and more rarely the loud strange cr^ of a black woodpecker. A little dusky- coloured wren hojDS in a skulking manner among the entangled mass of the fallen and decaying trunks. But the creeper {Oxyurus Tupinieri) is the commonest bird of the country. Throughout the beech forests, high up and low down, in the most gloomy, wet, and impenetrable ravines, it may be met with. This little bird no doubt appears more numerous than it really is, from its habit of following, with seeming curiosity, any person who enters these silent woods ; continually utterino; its harsh twitter, it flut ers from tree to tree, within a few feet of the intruder's face. In the more open parts, three or four species of finches, &c., and several hawks and owls, occur." * Most curious of all is the existence of a humming- bird {MelUsuga Kingii) on the shores of this wintry realm ; and which, even amidst the showers of snow, has been observed flitting about in search of the msects, equally hardy, that lurk in the blossoms of

* Darwin's Voyage round the World, chap. xi. — one of the most charniing and instructive journals ever published.

106 FUEGIA.

the Veronica and Fuchsia. The most important quadruped is the guanaco or llama, that useful compromise between the sheep and the camel, so characteristic of the South American mountains. It is found on Navarin Island, and on the main island, or, Tierra del Fuego proper. In summer shy and vigilant, the want of pasture drives it in the winter down to the valleys, where its slender legs slump into the snow, and make it an easy capture. Two species of fox occur, and these, with a few small rodents of the mouse and bat families, complete the inland zoology of this inhospitable region.

But the waters largely compensate for the life- lessness of the land. With its colossal sea- weeds, Fuegia might well be the paradise of fishes. To say nothing of many beautiful varieties which are dredged up from the rocks or washed ashore by the tides, these coasts are the head-quarters of the Lessonia and Macrocystis, the two giants of the ocean Flora. The former is an arborescent sea- weed, with a trunk of concentric layers so timber- like, that Dr Hooker mentions a captain who employed a boat's crew two days collecting the incombustible stems for fuel. The Macrocystis, instead of a trunk as thick as an ordinary cherry- tree, is moored to the rock by a tough but slen- der cable, which, rising to the surface, breaks into leaves, and then streams along a luxuriant tangle for several hundred feet. The Victoria water-lily requires a tank and hot-liousc for its special accom-

FUBGIA. 107

modation ; but a prime Macrocystis would need a tank a hundred feet deep, and as long as West- minster Abbey. In general, however, its cable is only a few fathoms long, and as its streamers wave over every inundated rock, it is at once the buoy and the !>reakAYater of these dangerous chan- nels. The " moored kelp " warns the mariner of a sunken rock, and if in stormy weather his little vessel can only get to leeward of its floating acres, he may set the wildest sea at defiance.* In this way has Providence not only supplied the means of safety in the very midst of danger, but, by the same arrangement, he has prepared a source of sub- sistence for this land of famine. These gigantic sea- weeds are the home and the pasture-field of count- less mollusks and crustaceans. The leaves are crowded with shell-fish. The stems are so encrust- ed with corallines, as to be of a white colour. And '•' on shaking the great entangled roots", a pile of small fish, shells, cuttle-fish, crabs of all orders, sea-eggs, star-fish, and crawling nereidous animals of a multitude of forms, all fall out together." f To such a well-stored larder it is not wonderful that shoals of fishes should resort, foi-saking for it brio-htcr but less bountiful Avaters ; and in the wake of these fishes come armies of seals and

* For beautifal figures and many interesting particulars regarding tliese and the other Algic of Fuegia, tiic i-eader is referred to I>r ILioker's isiaguiticcnt work, the " Flora Antarctica."

t Darwin.

108 FUEGIA.

clouds of sea-fowl. Among the latter are shags, petrels, ducks, red-bills, sea-pigeons, geese, steamer- ducks, and penguins. Of these many species have their breeding-places on the cliffs of the desolate islands. With their black coats and yellow waist- coats, the substantial and yeoman-like penguins take up their abode on the grassy fiats ; and in the month of January, that is to say, at their mid-summer, a braying quack may constantly be heard from morning to evening, inviting to dainty morsels their fat and solemn fledglings, — a dinner-bell which is never silent in the populous " penguinery." Not improbably with sinister designs on the infant penguins, the sea-lion is fond of a Avalk among the tufts of tussac, and, along with the sea-otter and the porpoise, this tyrant of the Southern Ocean is the great terror of the larger fishes. Predaceous as are the habits of so many of these creatures, it is interesting to contemplate the skill and profusion with which a sea so unpromising is peopled. All are ultimately dependent on a seemingly worthless sea-weed. That fucus cherishes the worms and polypes, the crabs and corallines, which feed the fishes ; and these, in their turn, sustain legions of cormorants and penguins, of seals and porpoises, as well as the less dexterous human fishery on the shore ; so that Mr Darwin is probably correct in his surmise, that the felling of a tropical forest would not be so f;ital to animal existence as the destruction of this gigantic " kelp." " 0 Lord,

FUEGIA. 109

how manifold are thy works ! in wisdom hast thou made them all : the earth is full of thy riches. So is this great and wide sea, wherein are things creeping innumerable, both small and great beasts. These wait all upon thee ; that thou may est give them their meat m due season. That thou givest them they gather : thou openest thine hand, they are filled with good."

The inhabitants of the Fuegian Archipelago have sometimes been called Pesherais, from a word which some of them are constantly using. In the classification of the Human Families they have been named " the Ichthyophagi," or Fish-eaters of Tierra del Fuego.* Of course they are South American Indians, and they belong to the Arau- canian division of the great Andian race. They are not only the nearest neighbours, but are un- doubtedly of the closest kindred, to the Patagonian inhabitants of the adjacent continent ; but they are intellectually and physically inferior to these stately specimens of mankind. Many of them have trunks proportionate to a six-foot stature : but their indolent squatting existence has dwarfed their extremities. Their colour is something be- tween dark copper and brown. Captain FitzRoy compares it to " very old mahogany." j But owing to the wood-smoke with which they are

* See Pricliard's Natural History of Man, Second Edition, p. 450 ; and Prichard's History of Mankind, vol. v.

t. Yiya.c<^s of tho Arlv.^Titnre ni^d T?.'^n£;lp, vol. ii. p. 137.

110 PUEGIA.

saturated, the oil and blubber with which they are smeared, and the earths, white, red, and black, with which they are painted, it is difficult to ascer- tain exactly a Fuegian complexion. Like their bodies, their heads are large. These heads are oblate spheroids, with long jet hair hanging straight down on either side, but cropped away over the brow. The forehead is very low, but, like the face, it is broad. The black eyes are oval, drawn to- wards the temples, and have usually an expression of simple good-humour. The nose is not handsome : flat and thick, with large nostrils, it is concave in profile ; and it is well supported by a mouth of great width, which closes in a straight line, and opens in an ample ellipse. The beaux of the antipodes do not fancy long beards, and what little hair shews itself on the chin or the eye-brows is usually extracted with tweezers made of two mussehshells. As already mentioned, from constantly crouching in their huts and canoes, their legs are crooked and stunted ; but still, they are by no means deficient in agility, and, in trials of strength, some of them were more than a match for an English sailor.*

Their clothing is scanty. By the same provi- dential arrangement which coats the whale in frozen seas with oil, the Fuegian is fortified

* For a minute description see a paper by Mr Wilson in the appendix to the 2d vol. of tlie " Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle." Portraits of Fuegians may be seen there, and in the folio atlas of plates to Cook's Last Voyage.

FUBGIA. Ill

against his inclement sky by an abundant develop- ment of tlie adipose tissue; and though his sea- otter or guanaco cloak is sometimes scanty, in ad- miring his hardihood, we must not forget that inside his skin he wears a thick under-clothine; of non-conducting fat. Hence these islanders some- times exhibit feats, the recital of which is enouo-h to make us shiver. In the coldest mid-winter they may be seen diving for sea-eggs ; and it was on a dark night, when the thermometer was at 28°, that some of them swam from the shore, and, from its moorings alongside, cut away the ship's boat of the Adelaide.

Nothing can be more wretched than their habi- tations. When a family lands from its canoe, the first care of the women, who are the only workers, is to build a house. For this purpose they cut down twenty or thirty trees, and arranging them in a circle, with the narrow ends resting on each other, like the sheaves in a shock of corn, they tie them together at the top, putting a little thatch or a few skins on the windward side, and leaving one entrance toward the sea and another toward the forest. There they kindle a fire, and there they huddle together night and day in stormy weather ; and there they tarry till they have devoured all the food of the district, and it is time to seek an- other settlement.

They are not without a taste for ornament, nor arc thcv (Mitirrly drvoid of ingenuity. Tliey

112 PUEGIA.

usually adorn their hair with a fillet of sinewy threads, elaborately and not inelegantly plaited ; and on great occasions this fillet is pranked out with birds' feathers or bits of red cloth obtained from the sailors. They are fond of bracelets and necklaces. These they make from shells or the small bones of animals ; or, failing beads and but- tons, from little chips of crockery. When shells are used, they are drilled so neatly that the process must require both skill and care. The Spanish voyager Cordova speaks Avith admiration of a sort of jar or basket which he found amongst them, entirely formed of bark, and with the bottom so accurately sewed in, that it could carry water without leaking.* But, crazy as they are, their canoes are perhaps a still more wonderful specimen of needle-work. These also are composed of the bark of trees. The main bulk may be the bark of one single beech ; but in order to complete it, a great many patches and a large amount of stitch- ing are requisite. With grass for oakum, and clay for pitch, and with thongs instead of nails, the builder soon finishes a boat which, after its own fashion, is a triumph of naval architecture. As long as it can carry paddlers as well as pumpers, it is considered sea-worthy ; but as soon as it requires all hands to bail it, they think it time to abandon it, and a new one is built or stolen.

Although their comforts aio so few, they are

* Cordova's Voyage to the Straits of Magellau.

FUEGIA. llo

well provided with offensive weapons. They have spears, and bows and arrows, and shngs which they use Avith such precision as nearly to equal in effect an ordinary musket. Besides, many of them are furnished with the Patagonian bolas — a chain- shot of formidable character. It consists of two round stones, covered with leather, and fastened to the two ends of a string about eight feet long. One stone is held in the hand whilst the other is whirled round the head till it has acquired sufficient velocity ; and then both are hurled at the object. Should it strike the legs of an ostrich or guanaco, it instantly twists tightly around them and holds the creature in fetters till the huntsman comes up.

Yet, with all his weapons, it is a scanty subsist- ence which the Fuegian secures. The sea around him is teeming with food, but he has neither net nor angle ; and it is only Avhen he is lucky enough to spear a rock-salmon, or when he can get a suffi- ciency of a little simpleton fish which allows itself to be spirited out of the water by a baited but bookless line, that this Ichthyophagous Indian de- serves his name. But if he is not a clever fisher- man, he is a cunning bird-catcher. In his fowhng excursions he is attended by a knowing little dog, half fox, half terrier ; and, if it is a moonlit night, the sportsman may be descried on the beach near the roosts of tlio sea-birds, and waiting till his four- footed accomplice returns witli a dead duck in his jaws," whicli lie instantly doposits at his master's

114 FUEGIA.

feet, and then scampers off in search of another. This ^well-trained retriever, though an assiduous barker at home, has the sense to carry on tliis sport in the deepest silence ; and the sleeping spoon-bill is jerked from his perch without ever dreaming of danger. They have also a plan of their own for catching petrels. Having first se- cured one with a string to his leg, they lower hira into any crevice where petrels are known to breed. The old birds are indignant at the stranj^er's intru- sion, and fall on him with such blind fury that they allow themselves to be drawn out of the hole, when they are instantly transferred to the fowler's basket. But birds are not always to be procured, and even sea-eggs are not attainable in stormy weather. For a great period of every year these poor islanders are entirely dependent on mussels, limpets, and similar shell-fish ; and, every time that the tide retires, tlie whole population is spread over the shore, rummaging for this sorry subsist- ence. Low-water is the meal-time of the dogs, as well as their masters ; and it is amusing to notice the adroitness with Avhich these sharp-witted crea- tures detach the unwary limpet from his moorings. As soon as this pasture is eaten up, these nomads of tlie beach launch their canoes, and paddle off in quest of new supplies. Sometimes they are so lucky as to discover a stranded whale or a dead sea-lion ; and, however " high " such venison may bo, it is always welcome, and imparts a sudden

PUEGIA. 115

plumpness to the fortunate finders. Of course, such prizes are rare ; and, hke most savages, the life of a Fuegian is an alternatidh of occasional feasts with long intervals of famine. In the des- peration of hunger it is fearful to think of the expedients to which he is occasionally driven. There can be no doubt, however, that these In- dians are cannibals, and that when other subsist- ence ftiils, " they kill and devour their old women before they kill their dogs." Those who fall in battle are in like manner devoured by the victors.

The intellectual capacity of these savages is, probably, small ; but their powers of mimicry are amazing. A long English sentence deliberately red they will repeat with the utmost precision ; and grotesque attitudes or grimaces many of them can reproduce with a comic gravity worthy of Listen or Matthews. Shameless greed and syste- matic thieving are universal vices. As soon as a canoe comes within hail of a ship, the well-known cry, " Yammer schooner " (Give me), is set up, and at everything given them they clutch and stow it into their basket without one look or utterance of gratitude. Nothing escapes their httle glancing predaceous eyes; and, but for the utmost vigilance, nothing would escape their active fingers. Once and again they proved too cunning for the watch of a man-of-war, and succeeded in abstracting valu- able boats belonging to the surveying expedition of the British Admiralty ; and when a native gentle-

116 FUBGIA.

man Lad been paying a visit on board, before he returned to his barge, it was thought no breach of etiquette to examine his cloak for tea-kettles and other trinkets. As Mungo Park experienced in Africa, traces of gentleness and tenderness may be found among the women ; but the mercies of the men are cruel. On the slightest provocation, the roguish simper can be exchanged for a scowl of fiendish ferocity ; and when exasperated, or brought to bay, they fight with more fury than wild beasts. The men are surly tyrants ; the women are laborious slaves. The softenino- infiu- ence of the domestic chai'ities is scarcely known ; and an incident related by Commodore Byron shews the fearful moroseness to which depraved humanity sometimes subsides.*

Of the religious belief of these savages little is known. Their divinity appears to be a great black man, who frequents the dim trackless woods

* " Our cacique and Lis wife liad goue off in their canoe, when she dived for sea-eggs ; but, not meeting with great success, they re- turned a good deal out of humour. A little boy of theirs, about three years old, whom they appeared to be doatingly fond of, watch- ing for his father and mother's return, ran into the surf to meet them : the father handed a basket of sea-eggs to the child, which being too heavy for him to carry, he let it fall ; upon which tlie father jumped out of the canoe, and catching the boy up in his arms, dashed him with the utmost violence against the stones. The poor little creature lay motionless and bleeding, and in that condition was taken up by the mother ; but died soon after. She appeared in- consolable for sometime; but the brute, his father, shewed little conccm about it." — NarruUvc of the Hon. John liijron, 1768, page

iiy.

FUEGiA. 117

of the interior ; who is very malignant and power- ful ; and who knows everything that is done or spoken. They are very superstitious. They have great faith in dreams. They will not for any con- sideration allow a stranger to cut off a lock of their hair ; and they think it extremely unlucky to kill the young sea-birds. " Oh, Mr Bynoe, very bad to shoot little duck — come wind — come rain — blow — very much blow," was the solemn remonstrance of one of them to a gentleman who had killed some very young ducklings as zoological specimens. They never speak of the dead. When a boy, hereafter to be mentioned, was questioned about his dead father, he was very unhappy, and refused to answer : " jSTo good talk ; my country never talk of dead man."

Embruted as are these savages, they are not sunk beyond recovery. Through the mercy of our God, there is at this moment on the earth a power well able to cure the worst Avoes of Fuegia. True, they are not an inviting race ; but they are none the less a fac-simile of our British forefathers. Sir James Mackintosh was born in a northern latitude exactly corresponding to Cape Horn in the south, and his ancestors lived in a hut without window or chimney, with a fire in the centre of the floor, with a pile of mussel-shells at the threshold, and with smoked fish and deer's flesh hanmno- from the rafters; and when they wished to cross an arm of the sea, they waited for a day of calm

118 FUEaiA.

weather Avhich would not endano-er their wicker coracle. The ancestors of Davj and Newton lived in forests almost as sombre as the beech-woods of Narborough's Land. Thej wore cloaks of bull or badger's skin, like the otter or guanaco robes of Navarin Island ; and they anointed their persons, and pipeclayed their faces, in a truly Fuegian fashion. The ancestors of Wesley and Wilberforce worshipped a devil, and were glad to propitiate his wrath by flinging their infants into the fire. But Christianity has wrought for Britain the best of miracles. If it has not brightened the skies and converted these islands into new Ilesperides; it has shed a balm into the moral atmosphere, and it has transformed the population. It has made us, as a people, honest, hard-working, and humane. It Las made a future existence a familiar idea, and it has made the Most High a not unfamiliar presence. It has given us tastes, aspirations, and affections, which a nation of atheists or pagans can never know. And whilst all this has been effected with only a small per-centage of practical religionists in our population, and, we may add, with only a small per-centage of Bible Christianity in our practical religion, it has done enough to teach us that the only thing needed to make any land " a delight- some land," is the gospel in ascendancy.

In the year 1831 there were three Fuegians in England. They were brought to this country by Captain FitzRoy, K.N., and the hope was enter-

PUEGIA. 119

tained that they might learn our language, and acquire the habits of civilisation, so as to introduce them, on their return, among their own compatriots. One of them was a full-grown man, York jNlinster, a gruff and surly felloAV, who could never bo in- duced to learn anything. Jemmy Button was a good-natured boy of no great capacity ; and Fuegia Basket was a rather pleasing and very intelligent girl. Considerable interest was felt in these visi- tors from the antipodes, and even the king and queen expressed a desire to see them. They were accordingly taken to the palace, and were received with all the gentle kindness so characteristic of Queen Adelaide. Captain FitzRoy consigned them to the care of a schoolmaster at Walthamstow ; and after a few months, accompanied by Mr Matthews, a missionary, he carried them back to their native isles. It may be questioned whether their resi- dence in England was sufficiently long ; and it is likely that, had a selection been practicable, more promising pupils might have been found than York Minster and Jemmy Button. At all events, the ex- periment was very unproductive. On landing in their own country, York Minster married Fuegia Basket, and being a powerful, resolute man, it is pos- sible that he may have been able to preserve from his rapacious neighbours the implements and manu- factured articles with which he was freely supplied But poor Jemmy was soon victimised. His goods were stolen, and his little garden was trodden down ;

120 FTJEGIA.

justifying his verdict, " My people very bad ; no sabe nothing ; my people very great fool." And as the violence of the people forced Mr Matthews to return on board, there is too much reason to fear that, left to themselves, his scholars would soon relapse into the surrounding barbarism.

CHAPTER VII.

iirst IqHs.

M7 wanderiugs thovi hast mimbered ; Even every tear mine eyes have shed Thy vial holds ; All in the folds Of thy large volume read.

Fsalm Ivi. 8. — George Sandys.

If our lives are preserved, and our attempt prospered, we shall next New Year's Day be in India. We shall no more see our kind friends around us, or enjoy the conveniences of civilised life, or go to the house of God with those that keep holy day; but swarthy coun- tenances will everywhere meet our eye, the jargon of an unknown tongue will assail our ears, and we shall witness the assembling of the lie'atlien to the worship of idol gods. We shall be weary of the world, and wish for wings like a dove. We shall probably experi- ence seaons when we shall be " e.weeding sorrowful, even unto death." — Dr Judson.

When Dr Judson wrote to his future wife the words just quoted, he did not know how terribly the prognostic would be fulfilled. He did not fore- see the perils of the Burmese war, and the unima- gined horrors of the death-prison at Kangoon. And it is well for us that there is no Agabus to reveal the tribulations through which each must pass to the Kingdom, or to set fully before us the dangers and hardships which attend a new under- taking.

Il>was with a cheerful eye that Mr Williams and his comrades surveyed the scene of tbeir projected campaign. But, as we have already said, they saw it to advantage. It was midsummer ; and, as long as the ship remained in sight, the natives wore their summer faces, and appeared mild, and almost friendly. The voyagers arrived in health and vigor ; and, in the excitement of strange circum- stances, the perils and difficulties of their under- taking were materially disguised.

124 FIRST TOILS.

It was on the 5th of December 1850 that the Ocean Queen cast anchor in Banner Roads ; and, resuming Mr Williams's Journal, we shall now trace the first proceedings of the missionary pil- grims.

" December 5. — At noon we proceeded in the sliip's gig to a small island called Dothan, lying betwixt Garden and Picton Islands, Captain Gardiner had fixed on it as the site of our intended dwelling-house, tl linking it capable of being made peculiarly secure from its position and shape. Here wo read an appropriate psalm, and oifered prayer, and sano' the doxologv. The natives had followed lis, and they stood gazing with wonder whilst we were so engaged. One passed into the centre of our circle, and now and then made an observation ; and when we sang they all joined heartily with ns. We then took possession of the island, and cut away the trees for a place where to fix our tent; but afterwards, in the course of the day, upon more consideration given, we abandoned Dothan, 'and chose our site in Garden Island. Here accordingly the axe was industriously used, and some largo timber was cleared away. In the course of the afternoon, I shot a goose and a duck. In the course of the evening, what from being very tired and cold, and the rush of impressions being very great and forcible upon my mind, my whole body seemed to shrink from the hardships that were palpably before me ; and my flesh, with a cowardly tremor.

FIRST TOILS. 125

seemed to protest against the difficulties, the trials, and the dano;ers. Whilst I felt this, I knew it was but the weakness of the flesh, and although I could not, under its present weariness, quiet its alarms, yet I felt a firm and quiet resolution, if need be, to sacrifice the flesh to the cause of God and humanity. It was a trial and a war between the two ; but the spirit within, strengthened by grace, ofiered the flesh upon the altar of sacrifice. Praise God, never did I feel more sensibly how God provides grace against the day of trial than in this instance.

" Tuesday, December 10. — To-day the first oppor- tunity presents, of recording the events which have marked our career. On Friday last, early in the day, having selected a spot on Garden Island ad- mirably adapted for our purposes, we conveyed to it bedding, apparel, provisions, and cooking utensils, and engaged ourselves most actively in clearing away a spot sufficiently large for our tents. These we erected, and by nightfall had everything pretty comfortable. AVe had two tents — one for the men, another for ourselves — and between the two a cook- ing-house or kitchen, made of poles we had cut down and covered with oiled canvas. The floor of our tent was covered with cork; over this, oiled canvas, which thus made a dry place for our beds. We had also begun a fence around our tents, which, on the following day, by the assistance of some of our ship's company, we enlarged and completed, so as to be surrounded on all sides except an opening

126 FIRST TOILS.

from the beach. It was amusing to see us all at work, each one plying the woodman's handicraft ; right and left, blows were being dealt, and the entano-led forest resounded to our hatchets. We piled up a huge fire, and regaled ourselves with provisions kindly sent us from the ship by our excellent captain. We are indeed greatly indebted to him for unexampled kindness, he having con- stantly manifested the most generous disposition and an affectionate interest in all that concerned us ; ever ready to assist us, and most hospitably and abundantly entertaining us during our whole voyage. The name of Captain Cooper, of the Ocean Queen, deserves to be remembered by us with respect and affectionate gratitude.

" We were undisturbed by the natives the whole of the day, and congratulated ourselves on this fortunate circumstance, as we hoped, by their not seeing our possessions, they would not be so excited to molest and pilfer from us. By eleven at night we were all so far straight as to be able to retire to rest, which all of us did, excepting the Captain and mj^self. We had agreed that each should keep a two hours' watch the ni^ht throuo-h, and this the Captain proposed should be commenced by himself takino; the first watch, commencing' at ten o'clock every night. The Captain accordingly rigged him- self in his sou'-wester and india-rubber overcoat and overalls ; and thus armed against the rain, for it was pouring with Fucgian earnest, he sallied

^-

FlItST TOILS. 127

forth ; and about half-past twelve, I succeeded liira.

" I had not lain doAvn, on account of the short- ness of time before commencing my watch ; and now that I was alone in the dead hours of nio-ht, surrounded by the dark masses of wood on the one hand, and the rippling waters on the other, with the i-ain pouring in heavy showers, and after a fatiguing day, I could not overcome the weakness of my frail heart, and I felt oppressed. The time of my watch hung heavily upon me ; and I almost counted the minutes as they passed. Strange cries broke upon my ear ; the penguin's harsh croak, with the shrill whistle of some sea-bird, and many sounds that I could scarce account for, all tending to give an extraordinary character to the scene. I felt no fear, neither did I wish to be differently circumstanced ; but I was wearv, and I wished heartily for rest. Two o'clock came, and then was poor Mr Maidment's turn. He had thrown himself down on his bed with his clothes on, and now he engaged with alacrity in the duty which fell to him. Selfish nature was glad of the opportunity to ex- change positions even thus with a friend and a brother, and to comfort itself in the warmth and repose of bed. I slept soundly, and awoke the next morning ready to resume the labor of the day. We persevered all Saturday in completing our fence, and arrano-ino- matters to our sa-tisfaction, and still we continued unmolested by any of t];0 natives, — a

128 FIRST TOILS,

matter somewhat surprisino-, had wo not hence conjectured that they were going to give the intellio-ence of our arrival to others of their ac- quaintance.

" Toward the evening, however, we had intima- tion of their approach ; and three of them, whom Ave had before seen alongside the vessel, came up to us. They appeared no way surprised at what they beheld, but greeted us with apparent good- ]iature, yarnmer-schoonering after everything they saw, and moving in a sidelong manner towards the enclosure of our tents, anxious to look in ; but we intimated our disapproval of this, and they were very tractable. These three were very peaceable and quiet, imitating every word we spoke, catching at any oddity they observed in our manner or doings, and laughing, and seeming altogether so well disposed, that we had good hope of maintain- ing a friendly footing with them, and have no reason to fear their molesting us. As the evening grew late, Captain Gardiner made signs to them to leave us, intimating that it was time to go to sleep, by laying his head on his hand, and then gently directing them to the entrance. They readily per- ceived our wish, and without hesitation departed.

" We had not provided meat for our food this day. For this purpose I went out witli my gun (for we have first to shoot or fish, before Ave can dine) ; and having brought back a goose and a duck, a stew Avas made of these, with the addition of some wild

FIRST TOILS. 129

celery Tve found in the woods; and having finisiied the day witli prayer, we again took our repose by sleep.

" Forcibly convinced that we ought not to suifer the Captain to share the duty of watching, I begged him that he would alloAV us to divide it entirely among ourselves, which, after some trouble and entreaty, he at length consented to do. At two o'clock I was called to take my post. The morning was fine and quite light, and everything around wore a pleasing aspect. The two hours I now spent, I trust 1 shall never forget. I felt the precious influence of the Spirit of grace and love upon my heart, and never were my impressions of divine truths so forcible ; never did I feel more sensibly the vanity and littleness of all human things, save as they bear reference to the eternal and invisible kingdom of God. I was much affect- ed by the thought, that what the poor natives of these islands were to us, so thousands and tens of thousands of the inhabitants of so-styled civilised lands were in God's sight — savages in their enmity against a just and good and holy God. I clearly saw that I had not so much danger to dread at the hands of these poor wretched natives, as at the hands of polished and civilised people : those would only assault my body, and rob me of a few earthly comforts, whilst the latter, by their influence and example, would rob me of an everlasting salvation; My heart, by the reflection, was drawn out in behalf

I

130 FIRST TOILS.

of my native land, and, alas ! I felt that there was spiritual wickedness in high places, and cor- ruption Avorking at the very core of human society. The blessing of God's presence in a holy frame of mind, with great joy, was felt as I never felt before in like manner. The time very quickly passed away, very differentl}'" from the night before. Afterwards, whilst in bed, I was greatly led out in spirit to praise and bless God.

" The following day, Sunday, was spent very happily and profitably, I was engaged most of the day with my Bible, and in close communion with God, blessed in the sense of his presence and favor. During the morning services, just as Ave commenced them, the three natives wc had hitherto seen came again and either sat or stood at our tent door. There they remained, for the most part very quietly, whilst we Avere engaged in Avorship, little thinking hoAv nearly they themselves stood concerned in Avhat Ave Averc doing. All things went on very quietly, and nothing occurred to dis- turb us until late in the afternoon, Avhcn Ave Avere startled at the mournful yelling cry of some of the Avomen, from their canoes, like the prolonged hoAvl of a dog. The Fuegians, who were Avith us at the time, immediately pricked up their ears, and mak- ing sijins to us Avhich we understood to mean that As^e Averc not to folloAv them, they departed in haste, and proceeded up to the head of Banner CoA'e, toward the outlet leading to Banner l\oafl!=5.

FIRST TOILS. 131

Soon we perceived, by the help of our glasses, that some strangers were joimng them. We noticed that our Fuegians took their spears with them before they went to meet them, and we imagined that the women might at first apprehend that the strangers were their foes.

" In the course of a few hours appeared the new-comers, who, we afterwards had reason to conclude, were from Navarin Island, and of the Yacuna tribe. We were immediately sensible that they were altogether a different people from the others. Their faces were quite blackened over, and they were sturdy and audacious in their bear- ing, and, as we soon found, impudent and uncon- trollable. Unlike the former, they were ready to resent every refusal of their importunate demands, and resisted our endeavours to keep them in check, looking at us with a most contemptuous and malign expression, and, by their demeanor, plainly be- speaking mischief. They were very well made, and, but for the diabolical passions expressed in their countenances, really good-looking men. Like the others, they had the crown of the head cropped close, and the fore part like a circlet of long hair hanging over the face. Like the others, too, they were perfectly naked, except the guanaco skin, which hung loosely over their shoulders and back, and which they occasionally folded together around their arms. Each wore a necklace made of small shells. With five of thc>e men around

132 FmST TOILS.

US, prying into everything, the other three hav- ing now put on a less pacific deportment, and ahnost entering our tent by force, our situation was not agreeable. It required all our vigilance to watch their motions ; and, from their whispering together, and their bold attempts to look into our tents, we suspected that they were concocting some plan of attack. However, after a time, they left us, Captain Gardiner having very plainly expressed his wish to that effect. After this — and upon the conclusion of a very profitable service, during which, as has always been our custom on the Sun- day evening, Captain Gardiner read a very excel- lent and encouraging sermon, and I read from the Scriptures and prayed — we set the watch and retired to bedr

■'It had been agreed that, on the least occasion of alarm, a railway whistle, provided for tlie purpose, should be blown. Accordingly, a little before four o'clock on Monday morning, we were startled by its shrill sound, and were out of bed and dressed in an instant. The cause of the alarm was the coming of the two black-faced natives. It was raining heavily and a very disagreeable morning, and we were a little uncomfortable at so early an intru- sion. The Captain and Mr Maidment, together with poor Bryant, who was on watch for the time, encountered them, I returning in after a while, as did the Captain also. Mr Maidment and Bryant being left, had a great deal of trouble with them

FIRST. TOILS. 133

One of them had the audacity to push the former quite off his seat, although he is a much bigger made man than the native himself. They also AYOukl have taken off Bryant's boots, had they not been forcibly resisted. After remaining two hours, they grew tired and left us. But in the course of the morning, whilst Mr Maidment and "I were out in the boat with Captain Cooper, the same men with some others again visited our tents, and so determined was their conduct, and so utterly con- temptuous, all but bordering upon open hostility, that it was quite manifest we could no longer stay on shore, and Erwin came from Captain Gardiner with a message to Captain Cooper, asking him for hands to assist him, as he would at once strike the tent?, and have all our things on board the boats. This was the original intention of Captain Gar- diner ; but he was anxious, while the boats were being got ready, and whilst the vessel was staying with us, to try an establishment on the land, so as to see what disposition the natives would evince. 1 was already firmly persuaded that the thing was impracticable, and was convinced that to prolong our stay another night would be attended with the loss of our property, and perhaps of our lives. I had only intimated these my apprehensions to Captain Gardiner, but did not press my opinion. I was therefore glad when I heard liis determina- tion to abandon the land, and take to our boats. For that purpose, last evening (Monday) all our

134 FIRST TOILS.

things were again brought on board the Ocean Queen, where we shall remain for a few days in the enjoyment of all our former comforts, until our boats are ready.

" I should not omit to add that on Monday morn- ing, at the moment the whistle disturbed me from my sleep, after some hours of troubled and anxious thought, I had just begun to slumber. During the night I could not but feel how portentous was our present horizon, and what dangers, difficulties, and privations awaited us on all hands. I greatly deplored the pressure of such thoughts, and resisted them over and over again with little success. But my compassionate Jesus helped me to look up to him as ready to help me even against myself, and to offer up myself again a willing sacrifice unto God. In this frame of mind I had sunk to sleep ; and when the alarm awoke me, it was just at the moment when I seemed to be hearing the songs of angels singing, 'We live to Christ alone;' and oh, how heavenly was the impression made upon my heart! how sweet the sound still ringing in my ears, * We live to Christ alone ! ' How full of mean- ing the words, 'Angels live to Christ alone!' We live to him alone, so must you. Yes, yes, my heart, my soul responded ; by the grace of my blessed Saviour, I will live to Christ alone.

" I should also mention that whilst reading the Scriptures on Sunday, every word seemed to be a volume, and truly 1 could say that then he opened

FIRST TOILS. 135

to me the Scriptures. Yea, I bless God, the Scrip- tures are become a precious treasure to me now, and I begin to verify the saying of Christ, that we must sell all we have, before we can go and pur- chase the field containing the treasure of God's grace and the riches of his Son. Oh! the world and Christ are opposed indeed. We must leave all if we would be his disciples : not that it is needful that we should all go into a heathen land to find the preciousness of Christ to our souls; but that all who seek after Christ should in no respect be con- formed to the world. God's love cannot be felt and known but where God's will is obeyed ; and his will requires of us, that we renounce the world, the flesh, and the devil, and live to God ; glorify- ing Christ with our body and soul, which are his.

" On Saturday, in company with Captain Cooper, we took one of the Fuegians with us in the Captain's gig, and cruised about for some hours. I shot a penguin at a considerable distance ofi", and this for the purpose of making an impres- sion on his mind. He seemed somewhat impressed with the sight of the wounded bird, though not much interested in the gun, or curious about it ; however, he did not like that it should be brought very close to him, and seemed to have some fear of it. We took the man afterwards on board the ship, and rigged him out in trousers, shirt, stock- ings, coat, and cap, which one and another pro- vided for him ; we also did the same for two other

136 FIKbX XOIL.S.

Fuegians, who came alongside tlie vessel in their canoes with their families. Afterwards we took the man back with us to our station ; gave him the bird, which, when some of his companions, five in all, including two children, joined him, he put on the burning embers, singed the feathers, then plucked them, and having laid it on the fire again for about a quarter of an hour, it was ready cooked according to their taste ; and then, borrowing a knife from one of the men, which he was honest enough afterwards to return, he dissected it, giving each one of the party a portion. These again bit oil pieces and gave them to each other. And thus tliey devoured the whole, without the least part being left except the bones and feathers, shewing us such a specimen of rapacious voracity and ex- pertness in dismembering and clearing the bones, as we had no conception of before. I also shot a large bird, the bald-headed vulture, which I gave them ; this they carried off to their families for a repast at home. We have been disappointed in finding no fish in any of the waters about us, neither catching any ourselves, nor seeing any with the natives, with one exception only, and then only a solitary one. Yesterday, we took courage on seeing some large albatrosses in the act of devour- ing a large rock salmon, which they had a minute or two before caught. The absence of fish is the more important to us, as the Captain, having ob- served plenty with the natives when lie was hcic

FIRST TOILS. 137

before, had fully reckoned on them, and had pro- vided no store of animal food, not even beef and pork. One thing more to be noticed now, is the remarkable aptitude of the people at imitation. Of this we had a striking instance on Sunday last, when talking to one of the boys. Not a word we uttered, but he repeated it over; not a question we put to him, but he answered us back in our own words, and imitated our every movement, so that it was quite ludicrous to see the child, as well as tiresome to talk with him.

" Tuesday, Dec. 17. — In company with Cap- tain Cooper, we dined on shore in honor of the Captain's birthday, and to celebrate the naming of a point of land after him, called Cape Cooper. It rained nearly all the time we Avere at dinner, but we proceeded therewith as coolly as though we had been in the sunshine, indeed somewhat more so."

Owing to some indispensable repairs, the Ocean

Queen had been detained in Banner Cove longer

than was anticipated ; but the time was now

arrived when she must proceed on her voyage, and

take leave of the missionary settlers. They availed

themselves of the opportunity for sending letters

home ; and a few paragraphs from one which Mr

Williams addressed to his sister will interest our

readers : —

" December 13.

'* You will see, my dear Anne, by what I have written to C, where we now are, and how we are

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• I have rec«.i\> a .. the Captain of tl crew, who united of the passengers ;i _ . ; silver pencil ca»e, and a _ present was given me 1..-.,..^ resence of all the company on ittering memorial drawn ni • as the motive to this n \ ices I have rendere«i to rely say that not is, and that I w nplyi. Several

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138 FIRST TOILS.

situated. You can enter into my feelings. You know the source which suppUes my consolations, and the fountain whence my joys arise. God is alhsufiicient for us, if we are his children in Christ Jesus, and put our whole trust in him. All who have hitherto inherited the promises have been strangers and pilgrims, and this, by God's grace, I am now. Kejoice therefore, my dear A., and know that all things shall work together for my good. Be not uneasy and apprehensive concerning me; but let your heart be glad that I am thus called to serve God and live to him. I believe I shall be spared to return to you again. But what- ever be the will of God concerning this, vv-e do know his will concerning our meeting together in his own presence, where there are pleasures for evermore. Then all will be lasting and secure : no more change, no more partings ; but every tear will be dry, and the songs of our rapture will abound. The lap of comfort is too often the nurse of sin and sorrow, whilst the thorny path of duty, although through the wilderness, is the sure road to everlasting bliss, and fruitful in heavenly joys. Cheer thee up, then, my dear A., and seek with me first the kingdom of God, and live in the enjoyment of the love of Christ."

" Wigwam, Banner Cove, "December 18.

" My dear Sister, — We have this day talcoa

leave of the ship and all on board; and uoav, with

FIRST TOILS. 139

our beats moored alongside of our station, or rather the place appointed for it, and in a wigwam of our own building — made of trees, thatched at the sides, with a fire in it — not far from the wigwams of the natives ; with the woods of Picton Mand on the one side, and separated from Garden Island by Banner Cove ; seated on the earth for my floor, I now write these last few lines again to say fare- well, and to bid you God- speed. God bless you. All is well, dearest A. ; the Lord does greatly comfort and strengthen me.

" I have received a" very pleasing testimony from the Captain of the ship and the passengers and crew, who united together, and purchased from one of the passengers a gold watch, with a gold chain, a silver pencil case, and a gold ring. This handsome present was given me to-day by the Captain, in presence of all the company on board, with a very flattering memorial drawn up and read. They allege as the motive to this very handsome conduct, the services I have rendered to many of them ; but I can sincerely say that nothing was farther from my expectations, and tliat I was conscious of no such desert. I simply performed a duty that de- volved upon me. Several of the men, even the sailors, wept on my taking leave of them, and seemed to feel greatly on leaving. They also pre- sented Mr Maidment with a ring and pencil-case. He really deserved their esteem ; for I never saw any person more kind in his attentions to the sick,

140 FIRST TOILS.

nursing them, cooking for them, and assisting them at all hours of the night. I regard this expression of their kindness as a good evidence that their hearts have been somewhat touched by the pro- fession we have made of the Lord Jesus, and I hope that the grace of God maj more deeply and permanently affect them.

" T must close. My love to C, to mother, &c., and to all my dear friends. To-night the ship leaves us. I shall not go on board again; but a boat shall take this on board.

" All is well, God be praised ! It is beyond all thought blessed to be given up entirely to the service of Christ. His consolations and the com- forts of the Holy Ghost are infinitely precious, and far outweigh all privations we have to encounter.

" Farewell, farewell !

" Your ever affectionate brother,

" Richard."

Tt is the twofold glory of Christianity, that it infuses fresh tenderness into the relative affections, and yet, when needful, it can subordinate or supersede them. Mr Williams had warm feelings naturally, and religion made them warmer ; and the parting Avith loved friends was the sorest pang in his departure for Fuegia. But as distance did not impair his attachments, so these attachments did not weaken his zeal. He did not put his hand to the plough, and turn his eye to his English

FIRST TOILS.

141

home; but, whatever might be liis secret hopes for the future, he gave all his heart to the work before him. The love of Christ constrained him, and the sacrifice of earthly endearment which he had made for His sake, helped to render that Master's authority more august and his fiivor more precious. And if it be a fine spectacle to see a home-sick but oaken-hearted sailor like Colling- wood, sustained by a simple sense of duty — keep- ing his post one weariful year after another, Avhen a flower from his own garden would have been more welcome than a forest of laurel, and a sight of his children more prized than a step in the peerage — it is surely as great a lesson to see the Christian missionary self-exiled from what he deems -an earthly paradise, and, in a calling which admits no earthly recompence, bound to a bar- barous shore by no other mooring than compassion for his fellow- men and loyalty to his Lord in heaven. It would be wrong to print the outpour- ings of brotherly and friendly tenderness, and the yearnings homeward with which Mr Williams's letters overflow ; but, having been allowed to read them, we confess that they have greatly exalted the writer in our eyes, and have imparted to his mission another element of martyrdom.

Returnino- to the Journal, we resume the record after the sailing of the Ocean Queen : —

" Our ship was seen getting under weigh at about nine o'clock on the morning of the 19tli December,

142 FIRST TOILS.

and in a few hours we lost sight of her. God speed her, and all that are in her ! About ten o'clock on the same morning we ourselves prepared to leave Banner Cove, in search of a place where we might deposit some of our stores, our boats being too much crowded. We could not stow any in the immediate vicinity, on account of the natives. Ac- cordingly, w^e got under weigh, but the wind was ahead of us at first. We had to make several tacks, and were sometimes puzzled in the attempt. My berth was in the Pioneer with Captain Gardiner ; but, as he required two of the sailors with him, I exchanged places with Bryant, and went on board the Speedwell, which was under command of Erwin, Badcock being with us. Thus we were divided, Captain Gardiner, Mr Maidment, Pearce, and Bry- ant in the Pioneer, and we three in the Speedivell. The Speedivell was much the heavier laden of the two, and greatly encumbered with stores. In addition, we had a heavy raft of timber fastened to our stern, and towed after us. I now turned to, to assist for the first time in the management of a sailing craft. I soon was able to handle the main- sheet, in working the boat, * hauling aft ' and ' slackening off,' ' brailing up ' and ' furling,' as I'equired ; and rigged out in most of tlio gear of a sailor, with sou'- wester, a blue sera;' shirt, and heavv sea-boots. The wind was blowinu fresh from the N.E., with squalls of rain, and, although some- what gloomy the weather, and chilHng, we set off

FIRST TOILS. 143

in excellent spirits. After tacking about for more than an hour, the Pioneer got the start of us, bv •weathering on one tack the point of land project- ing from Garden Island, and we lost sight of her. In attempting to do the same, the raft we had in tow came on our weather bow, whilst we were in stays, and we were driven leeward considerably. We now tried to wear her, but, owing to a field of kelp on our lee bow, she would not go round, and we saw ourselves fast drifting right on the surf. We were startled and amazed at the suddenness of the danger, as well as by its imminency and great- ness. It was scarcely credible to our senses, that, in the course of a few minutes, and almost at the instant of our losing sight of our companions, we should be exposed to such a peril as was now before us. All was anxiety and alacrity to do whatever we could. The anchor was hastily let go, but, owing to the mass of kelp and bad holding-ground, it came home until we were in the midst of the rocks. Destruction now, indeed, threatened us, and poor Erwin was almost beside himself. ' The boat, the boat will be lost ! — she's done for, she'll go to pieces ! ' was the poor fellow's repeated ex- clamation. We did our utmost, by means of the boat-hooks, &c., to keep her from being heaved by the roaring swell on the rocks. Now she was broadside, and all but upon them ; now her bow was really in danger of being stoved : we Avero first at one part, and as immediately at another,

]44 FIRST TOILS.

our hands being fully engaged, to keep her from" striking. Betwixt two and three hours we con- tinued thus, in constant and unceasing effort, till at length we were somewhat relieved by getting a spring on the cable, on which I held for an hour longer, whilst Erwin and Badcock fixed the boat- hooks. The wind was blowing; hard durino- the whole time, with increasing blasts at intervals, and the surge was furiously dashing about us. For more than four hours together had we thus to con- template the probability of our destruction ; and if our lives should be saved, yet now, separated from our companions, all our provisions gone, if left on shore, helpless and destitute, and at the mercy of tlie natives, the prospect was not pleasing. Were such my thoughts ? They might have crossed my mind. But they were not my thoughts ; my thoughts were altogether different. The grace of God so strongly supported me, that I felt not the least alarm, and v/as all along confident tliat we should again get off in safety. Indeed, I could not lielp thinking that I was too insensible to our danger, and too httle affected by it. Certain, however, it was, that not a struggle nor one emo- tion of fear occurred to me. I felt that, whatever the result might be, all would be well, for God had the ordering of this, as well as of anv other circum- stance which should betide us. Poor Erwin, as vet a stranger to the grace of God, gave way to pas- sionate paroxysms of grief, not on account of any

FIRST TOILS, 145

danger to himself, but on acconnt of the appro-- hended loss of our boat, and the injury we all, as well as the mission itself, would sustain thereby. Dear fellow! his feelings reflected honor upon him, as well as his unparallelled exertions. After re- maining in our dangerous position the time before specified, a lull occurred in the wind, and wc thought it a good opportunity to make an effort to get out, and push round the rocks into open water. It was, however, a most critical juncture, and presented certain destruction if we failed. Falling down before God, we sought his direction and help in prayer, and upon rising from our knees immediately proceeded to cut the chain cable ; but, not succeeding in this, we let it go altogether. And now, although destruction appeared inevitable, the swell launching us broadside with great force in the direction of the rocks ; yet, by the mercy of God, the danger was averted, and, after exerting ourselves to the uttermost, we found ourselves out- side the rocks and round the point. Here again another difficulty presented itself. Our rudder had been unshipped and carried away, and, before w^e could get any command of the boat, the wind and tide drifted us against the opposite small island, Round Island, wdien we had again to make strenu- ous efforts with our boat-hooks. Hardly had wo escaped this when wc touched some sunken rocks and shoal Avater, but were again mercifully pre- served. On getting free, wc took the only alter-

K

146 FIRST TOILS,

native left us, and ran aground on the shelving beach of Garden Island. Now, thank God, there was rest for the soles of our wearied feet. We hauled up the boat, and gave God praise. Happily at the time no natives appeared. Had they been present and witnessed our distress, humanly speak- ing we should have been altogether in their power, and in all probability must have fallen victims to their cupidity. But the providence of God was over us. The Lord is our shield. It was late in the day when we got here, and now, without any hope of seeing our companions this day, the wind being strong and against their putting back, we passed the night, sleeping very soundly till the time of high Avater, about three in the morning, when the boat was again afloat, and we once more got her into Banner Cove.

" Friday the 20th passed, and we saw nothing of our companions till past midnight, when we were aroused from sleep by their shouting and rattling against our boat. How happy were we to see them returned and safe ! They too had their difficulties. After losing sight of us they had proceeded, think- ing we should soon follow them, and after survey- ing several entrances on the north shore, had found an excellent harbour about twenty miles from Banner Cove, which Captain Gardiner named Blomefield Harbour, after Sir Thomas Blomefield, former secretary to our Society. Here they passed the night, remaining till the weather afforded them

FIHST TOILS. 147

a hope of returning to seek after us. Shortly after our separation they lost both dingies which they were towing astern, the lieavy swell having snapped the chain by which they were fastened. They found the boat not altogether fitted for sea, at least for rough weather, having no scuttle on her fore hatch- way, and leaking greatly from one of the bolt-holes in the knee of the bulk-head, which added much to their perplexities. Captain Gardiner was, however, highly gratified in having found a harbour so ex- cellently adapted for us as he deemed Blomefield Harbour to be, where he thought there was every facility to complete the fittings-up of our boat, and to overhaul the Pioneer for her leak, and likewise, as no natives were seen, where we might deposit our ample stores.

" Bent upon this, we again set out in company at about ten o'clock, on Saturday the 21st. The morning was very fine, with light breezes, but against us ; so that, when in Beagle Channel, we had to tack about all day long, and made but little way. However, all was very pleasant, and we kept in company until the evening, when our boat, the Speedwell, got considerably ahead, and we at length lost sight of the Pioneer. We stood on our course, and, by the directions given, we got abreast of the entrance to Blomefield Harbour. Surprised, how- ever, at the delay in the Pioneer coming up with us, we kept cruising about during the niglit, and seeing nothing at all of thcni, we in our turn became

148 FlUST TOILS.

alarmed for tlieir safety. Accordingly, about six in the morning, a fine breeze springing up in favor of our return, we put back for Banner Cove, hoping they might have returned there. Abreast of the Cove we at first saw no indication of them, and Avcre just in the act of standing out again for sea, thinking that somehow or other they must have passed us in the night, and got before us into the harbour, when Badcock got sight of the boat masts and a flag flying at the top of one of them. She was but just visible, and we were greatly puzzled to account for her position, as well as alarmed at seeing her as we thought disastrously stranded. We got up to her as speedily as possible. Blessed be God ! our first salutation from Captain Gardiner was, ' All is right, but had you not come, all would have been wrong.' They had put back on account of the hght wind, to pass the night in our old locality, and had entered by Cook's Passage, but the tide, on ebbing, had receded further than was expected, and had left them aground. A large party of the natives had come back to Tent Cove, and had been harassing them much. Just as our boat hove in sight they were mustering their forces, and our little party fully expected an attack ; but if they had any such intention, our coming caused them to abandon it. Early in the morning the natives had quite taken our friends by surprise, and being ashore, they clambered up into the boat without there being any possibility of preventing

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them. At this moment, so critical, the Captain with his httle band knelt down and offered up prayer to God, the natives standing about them ; and it was apparent that during the time a real change took place in the countenance of one in particular of the natives, and they were all remark- ably quiet and subdued. As soon as the tide was at full, the Pioneer was got off, and both boats got under weigh.

" Tuesday, December 24. — At Tent Cove, early in the morning, our alarm whistle was blown to apprise us that the natives were coming off. This was about four o'clock, and all hands were immedi- ately on deck to be prepared in case they meant to attack us. The natives consisted of eight men with their wives and families, in three canoes ; they came alongside, and we deemed it prudent not to let them approach so near as to be able to spring- on board. They, however, shewed no actually hostile spirit. We rather anticipated they would, especially as the night previous they had hung up white streamers on their canoes, and painted them- selves white, which wc understood to mean hostility ; and we did not know for what purpose they all were mustered together and put off in company. As we gave them nothing on this occasion, but intimated rather our dissatisfaction with them, they soon left us and went out of the Bay into the Beagle Channel. The natives being gone, we availed our-

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selves of this opportunity to get back our raft of timber, which was lying on the beach opposite their wigwams ; and we also succeeded in recovering our chain and ground tackle, and also a raft which we had constructed in place of our dingies. In the evening we buried, or rather stowed away, all our surplus provisions, an excellent place being found for that purpose on Garden Island.

" Wednesday, 25. — Took up our position at Banner Cove, and overhauled the Pioneer, to get at her leak. Christmas day was, as almost every day had hitherto been since we got on board the boats, a day of bustle and work ; this was unavoid- able. Our Christmas dinner consisted of preserved meat, and some wheat-meal dough with a few I'aisins in it, which we enjoyed as much as any epicure in England could enjoy his well-spread table and delicate viands. We remembered our dear friends, and in God's name blessed them.

" Thursday, 26. — The natives returned, and ' came up to us in a very friendly manner, and we bartered with them for some small fish, which they had speared ; they then passed on in the direction of their wigwams, but we saw nothing more of them that day.

" Tuesday, 31. — Up to the present time, no- thing very material has occurred. We are now getting into something like settled habits, as re- spects our new quarters and altered