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LETTERS.
LETTERS
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WRITTEN FROM
COLOMBIA,
DURING
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A. JOURNEY
« FROM
CARACAS TO BOGOTA,
ANl) THENCF. TO
SANTA MARTHA,
i
IN
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1823.
LONDON :
PRINTED FOR G. COWIE & CO. 31, POULTRY.
1824.
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J. Haddon. Printer, Castle Street, Finsbury.
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PREFACE
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The writer of the following Letters puts them forth with no other pretension than that of giving a faithful account of what he had the opportunity of observing on his journey.
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Pretending to neither literary talent, nor scientific attainment, he would not, however, have considered mere accuracy of observation a sufficient apology for the publication, but for the want so universally felt in Great Britain of information as to the actual condition of the Republic of Colombia.
The more that rich and beautiful country becomes known, the greater will be the in-
VI
PREFACE.
terest excited towards it among all Europeans, So extensive a field for the exercise of Euro¬ pean industry and intelligence has not for ages presented itself. Nature discloses, on all sides, inexhaustible treasures, both of the mineral and vegetable kingdoms the skill and labour of man are alone wanting to draw them forth. The variety of soil and climate affords scope for every species of production, and enables the stranger to choose those which may suit his constitution and pursuits. The scene on all sides is, in short, abundantly inviting ; and the traveller, in passing through the country, sees such extensive capabilities so much scope for improvement, that he hardly knows which object he ought to take up first.
The suffering caused by the Revolution has been excessive— -the desolation extreme. Both mark, in a manner highly honourable to the Colombians, the undeviating constancy with which, for fourteen years, they have persevered in a struggle, — not of faction against legitimate authority, but of lawful right against unlawful
PREFACE.
Vll
oppression. It is, perhaps, not generally known in this country, that the original con¬ querors of Spanish America established solemn treaties between the inhabitants of those na¬ tions, and the crown of Spain ; by which the former became subject to the Spanish crown, but with certain provisions and stipulations, calculated to secure to them particular rights and privileges. These treaties were wholly disregarded, and trampled under foot by the Spanish Government. Remonstrance after re¬ monstrance was made to the Court of Madrid. They were mocked at, and despised. A greater example of patient and enduring loyalty, than that exhibited for three centuries by the Co¬ lonies of Spain, history does not furnish. It was not sufficient that the greatest political privations were inflicted on the inhabitants ; — they were even prohibited from cultivating some of the most valuable fruits of the earth. The vine and the olive-tree were forbidden plants throughout all Spanish America. And. why ? That the wine and the oil of the mother country might alone be consumed by the
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PREFACE.
Colonists. In short ; a more absurd system of misrule — a more heartless, selfish tyranny, than that exercised by Spain over its trans¬ marine possessions, the world has no example of. With so docile a people, any thing like a moderately liberal system of government would have secured these valuable countries to Spain for ever. She has now irrevocably lost them, — not by the rebellion of discontent against the restraints of rational government, but by her own infraction of the most solemn and in¬ alienable engagements. A few years of peace will shew how much the interests of humanity at large have benefited by the change.
CONTENTS.
LETTER I.
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Description of the country near La Guayra, p. 1, Of the town, 2. Landing, ib. Beds, 3. Account of earth¬ quake at La Guayra, ib. Inhabitants, ib. Commerce, 4. Cocoa-nut trees, ib. Houses, ib. Further descrip¬ tion of country round La Guayra, 5. Departure, ib. Scenery near La Yenta, 6. Its great height, 7. Descent to Caracas, ib. Description of the town, 8. Account of the cathedral, ib. Country when conquered, 9. heat, 10. Yale of Caracas, ib. Agriculture, &c. ib.
LETTER II.
Departure from Caracas, p. 11. Distance to Bogota, 12. Method of travelling, ib. Description of country, ib. Plantations, ib. Village of Las Juntas, 13. Fighting cocks, 14. Description of the Andes, ib. Difficulty of travelling, ib. Fertility of soil, ib. Climate, 15. Buena Vista, ib. Village of San Pedro, ib. Cock¬ fight on Sunday, ib. Scenery, 16. Dine at Las Ala- jas, ib. Village of Las Coquises, ib. Badness of roads, ib. Description of the inn-keeper, 17. His poetry, ib. Proceed to Consejo, ib. Productions, 18. Account of La Victoria, 19. Heat, ib. Sugar planta¬ tion, ib. Process of making sugar, 20. Haciendas,
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21. Village of Maracay, ib. Milk-tree, 22. Gen. Paez, ib. Lake of Valencia, 23. Scenery, ib. Ex¬ tent, ib. Fort Cabrera, 24. San Joachin, ib. Guacara, ib. Description of Valencia, 25. Amuse¬ ments, ib. When, and by whom founded, 26. Further account of General Paez, ib. Climate, 27. Soil, ib. Letter from Bolivar, 28. Account of our host Don Fernando Pehalver, 29. Departure from Valencia, 30. Tocuyito, ib. Situation, 31. Hospi¬ tality of the Colombians, ib. Field of battle at Cara- bobo, ib. Bomantic scenery, 32. Fire flies, ib. Disasters, ib. El Hoyo, ib. Birds, 34. Mocking¬ bird’s nest, ib. Various birds of beautiful plumage, ib. Tinaquillo, 35. Houses, ib. Situation of Tinaco, ib. Approach to San Carlos, 36. Indigo, ib. Description of San Carlos and its environs, 37. Trade, 38. Great heat, 39. Population, ib. San Jose, ib. La Ceva, ib. Scenery, ib. Caramacal, 40. Description of the Alcalde, 41. Montana del Altar, ib. Indian family, ib. River Cogedes, 42. Wretched accommodation, ib. Gloomy scene, 43. Boca del Montana, 44. La Morita, ib. Augare, ib. Great fertility of soil, 45. Town of Barquesimeto, ib. Population, ib. Great devastation caused by earth¬ quake, ib. Situation, ib. When founded, ib. Seritas Blancos, ib. Las Horcones, ib. Productions, ib. Chibor, ib. Arrival at Tocuyo, &c. ib.
LETTER III.
Second division of journey, p. 48. The name of Vene¬ zuela whence derived, ib. Account of Tocuyo, ib. Situation, 49. Productions, ib. Population, 50. Bathing, ib. Bread, ib. Departure, 51. Road, ib. Approach to Olmucaro, ib. Olmucaro Abazo, ib.
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Indians, ib. Temperature, 51. Curious bridge, ib. Grand scenery, 54. Great variety of flowers and shrubs, ib. Agua de Obispas, 56. Climate, ib. Produce, ib. Departure, ib. Road, ib. Myrtles, ib. Yale of Carache, 58. Fine and picturesque scenery, ib. Descent to Carache, ib. Appearance, ib. Miserable habitations, ib. Dearth of provisions and wine, 59. Departure, ib. Vale of St. Anna, ib. Extent, ib. Well calculated for a European Settlement, 60. Temperature, 61. Soil, ib. Pro¬ ductions, ib. Curiosity, ib. Mocoy, 62,. Great poverty, 63. Continue our march, ib. Road, ib. Village of Panpanito, ib. Description of the men, and their accoutrements, 64. Heat, ib. Fine coup d’ccily 65. Savanna Larga, ib. River Motatan, ib. Fine trees, ib. Cocoa hacienda, 66. Valera, ib. Great lake, ib. Extent, ib. Temperature, ib. Ap¬ proach to Mendoza, 67. Fine mountainous and forest scenery, 68. Humboldt’s description of Ameri¬ can woods, ib. Vale of Timotes, 69. Procession of San Filipe, 70. Change of temperature, ib. Cha- copo,ib. Mucuchies,71. Population, 72. Climate, ib. River Chama,ib. Mucucubar, ib. Description
of the country, 73. Arrival at Merida, ib.
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LETTER IV.
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Account of Merida, 74. Productions, ib. Vale of Chama, 75. Heat, ib. Height of the mountain, ib. Situation, ib. Description of the city, ib. Popu¬ lation, 76. Convents, ib. Soil, ib. Value of land, 77. River Chama, 78. Departure, 79. Descrip¬ tion of the road, ib. Acacia and wild jasmine, 80. St. Juan, 81. Senor Pina, ib. Account of the in¬ habitants, ib. Spanish oppression, ib. Convent, 83.
Xll
Singular lake near St. Juan, ib. Indian divers, ib. Departure from St. Juan, 81. Fine scenery, ib. Difficult and dangerous pass, ib. Account of two singular bridges, 85. Estanques, ib. Coffee planta¬ tion, 86. Cocoa trees, ib. The coffee plant and L’Erytrine, 87. Method of keeping slaves free of expence, 88. Abolition of slavery, ib. Curious and affecting circumstance, 89. Mosquitos and the ejen, ib. Horse stung by a serpent, 90. Forest trees, 91. Description of Vijagual, ib. Tobacco plant, 92. Places where grown, 93. Bayladore, ib. La Ceva- da, 94. Situation, ib. Vale of La Play ta, ib. Dove and pigeon shooting, ib. Mode of agriculture, ib. Temperature, 95. Mule stolen, ib. La Greta, 96. Situation, ib. Women, ib. General Morales, ib. Road to El Cobre, 97. Manner of conveying dis¬ patches, ib. Ascent of El Zumbador, 98. Approach* ib. Disappointment, 99. Savannah Larga, 100. Valley, ib. River Tormes, ib. Tariva, ib. Road, Capachio, ib. Lancasterian school, ib. San Anto¬ nio de Cucuta, 102. Arrival at Rosario de Cucuta, ib. Population of the Province of Venezuela, 103. Proportions of ditto, ib, Extent of countrv, &c. &c. 104.
LETTER V.
Account of Rosario de Cucuta, 106. Church, ib. Painting, ib. Appearance of the town, 107. Popu¬ lation, ib. Hot spring, ib. Its great heat, 108. Dancing, ib. Provisions, ib. Departure, 109. Fine view, ib. Road, ib. Cotton plant, and when intro¬ duced, ib. Soil, 110. Snakes, ib. Produce of the hacienda, 111. River San Jose, ib. Serpent shot, ib. New road fiom Carillo to Pamplona, 112. Description of the country round, ib. Fertility of
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soil, ib. Gallenazo, ib. Village of Chopo, 113. Cheapness of provisions, ib. View of Pamplona, ib. Account of the city, 114. Convent of Franciscan Nuns, ib. Paintings, ib. Temperature, 115. Gold mines of Veta, ib. Copper and silver mines, ib. Population, 116. Departure, ib. Singular colour of soil, ib. Fine spring of water, ib. Village of Cacuta,
117. Chitaga, ib. Bad accommodation, ib. Hoop¬ ing-cough, ib. Ascent of the Paramo Almocadero,
118. Beauty of the cattle, 119. Temperature, ib. Serito, ib. Servita, ib. Village of La Concepcion, ib. Gaetano Garcia, the Curate, ib. Account of the village, ib. Quantity of sulphur, 120. Malaga, ib. Agreeable companions in our night’s lodging, 121. Village of Llano Anciso, ib. Description of the Goitres, ib. Fine scenery, 122. River Chichamache, ib. Village, ib. Population, ib. Heat, 123. The cucurachas, ib. The road to Tipacaque, ib. Beauty of flowers and shrubs, ib. Approach to Soata, 124. Arrival at Soata, ib.
LETTER VI.
Leave the mountains, 125. Village of Susacco, ib. Great hospitality of Madame Calderon, ib. Storm, 126. Village, of Satiou, ib. Market day, ib. Militia, 127. Dress of the females, ib. Comfortable shelter, ib. River Chiquito, 128. Difference be¬ tween Venezuela and New Grenada, ib. Vale of Serinsa, 129. Produce, ib. Cottages, ib. Popula¬ tion, 130. Example of their patriotism, ib. Arrival at Santa Rosa, ib. State in which we found the people, ib. Village of Duithma, 131. Defeat of the Spaniards by Bolivar, ib. Cattle, ib. Village of Paypa, ib. Battle of Boyaca, 132. Village of Tuta,
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ib. Account of the Curate, Antonio Guevara : his great information and excessive hospitality, ib. Curates, 133. Tunja, ib. Situation, 134. Manu¬ factory, ib. Custom of the Spaniards, ib. Convents, 135. Monks, ib. Paintings, ib. Sor Banos, 136. Colegio de Boyaca, ib. Laneasterian School ib. Temperature, ib. State of the country, 137. Field of Bayaca, ib. Account of the Battle, ib. Venta Quemada, ib. Moonlight ride, 138. La Pila, ib. Bad accommodations, ib. Description of country, 139. Village of Choconta, ib. Vale of San Vicente, ib. Game, ib. Esquele, 140. Village of Guacha- sipa, ib. Tocunsipa, ib. Zipaquira, 141. Salt mines, ib. The plain, ib. Hacienda, ib. Susaquia, ib. Neglect of cultivation, 142. Arrival at Santa Fe de Bogota, the capital of the Republic, ib.
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LETTER VII.
Difficulty of procuring a house, 143. Promenade, ib. A description of our lodging, 144. Visit to the Vice- President and Ministers, ib. General Santander, ib. Sor Gual, 145. Castillo, ib. Sor Restrepo, ib. General Briseno Mendez, ib. Bishop of Maracaibo and Merida, ib. General Oudinetta, ib. Dr. Pena, ib. Scite of Bogota, 146. Difference between the ascent and descent of the river Magdalena, ib. Method of travelling, ib. Climate, 147. Elevation of the table land, 148. The Plain, ib. Height of the mountains Serrat and Guadaloupe, 149. Popu¬ lation of Bogota, 150. Churches and convents, ib. Streets, 151. Calle Real, ib. Provisions, ib. Wines, 152. Prices of some articles, ib. Costume of the ladies, ib. Peasantry, 153. Beautiful women, ib. Their depravity, 151. Village of Soacha, 155. Road
XV
to the falls of Teguendama, ib. The country round, ib. The river, 156. Description of the falls, 157. Remarkable lake, 158. Cathedral of Bogota, 159. Paintings, ib. Church of St. Juan de Dios, 160. National Congress, ib. Government, ib. Legislative authority, ib. Passing of laws, ib. General elections,
162. Qualifications of a Member, ib. The Senate,
163. Qualifications of a Senator, ib. Executive power, 164. Ministers, ib. Judicial authorities, 165. High Court of Justice, ib. Debates, 166. Senate house, ib. Speeches, 167. Sor Soto. 168. Mr. Hurtado, ib. Padre Breceno, ib. Bishop of Merida, ib. Vice-President Torres, 169. General Narifio, ib. Gual and Castillo, 170. Two speeches of Sor Gual, ib. The Sessions, 171. Party spirit, ib. Chamber of Representatives, 172. Interesting de¬ bate, 173. Sor Caycedo, 174. Sor Pedro Mosquera, 175. Dr. Palacio, ib. Padre Santander, ib. Sor Herrera, ib. Col. Olivarez, ib. Six new laws, 176.
LETTER VIII.
Engage passage to Jamaica, 177. Departure from Bogota, ib. Serresuela, ib. Facatativa, ib. Venta of Cerredera, ib. Height, ib. Description of the road and country, 178. Ascent of the Alto del Trigo, 179. Fine and picturesque scenery, ib. Guarduas, ib. Situation, 180. Thunder storm, ib. Dangerous descent, 181. The coral snake, ib. River Magda¬ lena, ib. Width and impetuosity, ib. Temperature, 182. Site of Honda, ib. Indian carriers, ib. River Guale, 183. Purchase a canoe, ib. Rapids, ib. Dangerous pass, 184. Rio Negro, Rio Claro, Rio de la Mien, ib. Overflow of the Magdalena, 185. Bats, ib. Alligators, ib. Tigers, ib. Turtles, 186.
XVI
Village of Nare, 187. Change our boat, ib. River Junta, ib. Garapata, ib. Dews, 188. St. Barto- lome, ib. River Nuevo, ib. Heat, ib. Sunset, ib. S. Pablo, 189. Badillo, ib. Variety of birds, ib. Monkies, ib. Snakes, ib. Lions, ib. Wolves, ib. Butterflies, ib. Neglect of cultivation, 190. Champans, ib. Meeting of two boats, 191. Account of the bogas, ib Budillo, 192. The Brago Ocana, Villages, 193. Expedition of travelling, ib. City of Mompox, ib. Commerce, 194. Population, 195. Pass several villages, ib. River Cauca, ib. River scene, ib. Heavy squall, 196. Great heat, ib. Nivito, 197. Baranca Viejo, Baranca Nuevo, ib. El Digue, ib. Ducal, ib. Heat, ib, Kayman or alligator, ib. Leave the Magdalena, 199. Grand scenery, ib. Canos, or lakes, 200. Cienaga, ib. Pueblo Viejo, ib. Proceed over land to Santa Mar¬ tha, 201, Description of town and coast, ib. Eleva¬ tion, 202. Cathedral, 203. Population, ib. Com¬ merce, 204. Steam-boats, ib. Savanilla, ib. General Padilla, 206. Accounts received of a battle and victory, ib. Joy of the populace, 207. Women, ib. Balls, ib. Curious custom, ib. Carthagena, 208. Mexico and its population, ib. Engage a passage to Kingston, ib.
W.-vf.l-.&l- AlA
LETTERS
Sfc.
CARACAS, 2 1 si February, 1823.
My former letter will have put you in pos¬ session of the narrative of a most favourable voyage from Falmouth, of thirty- three days ; I therefore resume my Journal from the
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11 th Feb. near La Guayra. How grand and magnificent a sight is now before us ! The splen¬ did coast of Terra Firma lises in lofty majesty, till its towering mountains are lost to view in the fleecy clouds that envelop their summits. How novel and sublime a prospect the first opening of this fine country to an European! its very aspect bespeaks independence ! We are coasting along at the distance of a few miles ; the mountains, which rise abruptly from the verge of the sea to a stupendous height, are completely clothed in verdure.
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which, on nearing the land, seems principally to consist of brushwood, with here and there patches of forest. In two or three spots near the sea, the ground is cleared, and small Indian villages and plantations form a pleasing variety. The Silla, or Saddle Mountain of Caracas is by far the highest in this range of eminences on the side of La Guayra. At three o’clock we were at anchor before the town, which is a singular object, appearing as if it had dropped in a heap at the bottom of a deep ravine ; the mountains at its back rise to an amazing height, and are most imposing in their aspect. Although the most frequented, this is by far the worst port on the Coast, being exposed to a constantly rough sea.
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Owing to the swell, it was not without some difficulty we landed at a rotten wooden pier. We proceeded thence to the French Posada (inn). It was dinner time; and many of the inhabi¬ tants of the town had met at the Ordinary — a promiscuous assemblage, from the shop¬ keeper’s clerk to the governor. Almost the first object that presented itself to our view on landing, was the coast covered with wrecks ; a violent swell from the N. E., unaccompanied by any wind, having, in the preceding month, cast on shore every vessel, excepting an Ame-
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rican frigate, that was lying off the port. There were no less than fourteen hulls then on
the beach, and amongst them Captain - — s
ship, himself and crew having fortunately been saved. After paying our respects to the Governor, we supped with Mr. - , a respec¬
table merchant here, and had beds prepared for us at the inn, after the fashion of the country. These are nothing complicated ; consisting of a simple piece of canvas drawn tight upon a stretcher, with a pair of sheets, and a B alley bolster ; I dare say well adapted to the climate, but certainly a novelty! In spite of a whole fraternity of fleas and mus- quitos we slept soundly until four the next morning —
12 th Feb. When my compagnons de voyage mounted their mules for Caracas, with a view to make the necessary arrangements for our imme¬ diate departure for Bogota. The town of La Guayra 'presents a most dismal aspect, from the ravages committed by the earthquake of 1812; two-thirds of it, at least, is a heap of ruins, and the tattered appearance of the black popu¬ lation is in unison with the general desolation : amongst them I observed many well made, and even athletic men. The female sex are more unsightly, and neither of them are incumbered
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by superfluous clothing ; the children have none at all. The commerce carried on with La Guayra is considerable, and is daily in¬ creasing, with the English and North Ame¬ ricans. During my short stay I visited a pretty little village on the sea coast, at the distance of a mile, called Maiquetia. It is characterized by a fine grove of cocoa-nut trees, which, I believe, thrive best near the sea-shore. It is an elegant tree, growing to the height of fifty or sixty feet, the top of the stem being crowned with about fifty leaves from ten to fifteen feet long, with nuts in clusters of about a dozen each hanging from it. The houses here are constructed in a manner to exclude heat as much as possible, and admit the sea breezes, which set in from ten in the morning until sun-set. They have generally a court in the centre, surrounded by an open terrace, which communicates with the respec¬ tive apartments. The rooms are lofty, and for the most part tiled instead of boarded ; which, in a hot climate is pleasant, for every other reason, than that it generates fleas most abundantly.
13 th Feb. This morning I had an opportu¬ nity of seeing a little of the wild aspect of the country round La Guayra, in seeking for a fit
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spot to bathe in; a small rivulet descending from the mountains at the back of the town, and forming occasional pits, is frequented for this] purpose. The scenery is grand and striking, but just as nature formed it, unaided by art or cultivation. The mountains, rising to a towering height, lose their summits in the clouds ; many fine ravines are formed, clothed in wood ; and the stream, falling from one steep to another, is occasionally seen through the openings. Several birds of curious plu¬ mage frequent these solitudes, but I did not observe any that were particularly beautiful.
Humboldt speaks of the yellow fever as pre¬ vailing at La Guayra ; if it was known there in his time, it has disappeared since, for there is no trace of it at present. An English physician directed his enquiries particularly to this point, during a short stay at La Guayra and Caracas, but could no where meet with, or hear of the yellow fever.
Having dispatched the cavalcade of baggage mules to Caracas, I took leave of La Guayra at three o’clock, and commenced the steep ascent which is cut in a zig-zag form up the mountain. The road is so rough and precipitous, that it
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surprizes one how so much traffic can be carried on with the interior. It was long before La Guayra began sensibly to recede from our view ; but by dint of perseverance we reached “ La Venta,” the half-way house, in three hours. Nothing can exceed the gran¬ deur of the scenery while winding up this immense steep. The mountains are generally wooded, excepting only in a few spots where they have been cleared to give place to “ Tierras” of maize, plaintains, coffee, &c. ; and words cannot convey an adequate idea of the majestic beauty of the view from the Venta, which has already been most justly celebrated
(t This spot does indeed, when the clouds permit, present a magnificent view of the sea and the neighbouring coast. You discover an horizon of more than twenty-two leagues radius ; the white shore reflects a dazzling- mass of light, and you see at your feet Cape Blanco, the village of Maiquetia with its cocoa trees, La Guayra, and the vessels lying at anchor in the port. But this view is far more extraordinary when the sky is not serene, and trains of clouds strongly illumined on their upper surface seem projected, like floating
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islands, on the surface of the ocean. Strata of vapour, hovering at different heights, then form intermediary spaces between the eye and the lower regions. From an illusion easily ex¬ plained, they enlarge the scene, and render it more extraordinary. Trees and dwellings dis¬ cover themselves from time to time, through the openings which are left by the clouds driven on by the winds, and rolling over one another. Objects then appear at a greater depth than when seen through a purer and more serene air.”
According to Humboldt’s computation this spot is 3,600 feet above the level of the sea, and the difference of temperature between it and La Guayra is very striking. From hence to the summit of the mountain, which I reached at sun-set, is a distance of two miles, and thence to La Guayra is computed at eleven, which it took me four hours to perform. The descent to the vale of Caracas is seven more. The view of that city from hence, I am informed, is one of the grandest sights imaginable, and I have to regret that the advance of evening deprived me of the enjoyment of it. It was eight o’clock when I passed the city gates, descending by the Calle (street) deCarabobo, a complete picture of desolation — that part of Caracas nearest to
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mountain presenting a continued mass of ruins. For the full space of a mile the streets were overgrown with weeds, and entirely uninha¬ bited. Such are the remains of the violent earthquake of 1812 !
20 th Feb. I regret that full employment dur¬ ing my short stay in the second capital of Colombia prevents my giving a very detailed account of its peculiarities. It is situated in a valley, about four leagues in extent, running east and west, and surrounded by the immense chain of mountains which border the sea from Coro to Cumana; the only regularity observable in the town is the direction of the streets, which run at right angles ; the principal square is called the Placa Mayor, where the market is held ; it is built without any symmetry or order, and surrounded by small shops which are any thing but ornamental. The cathedral occupies the eastern side. The houses of Caracas, once so rich in the costliness of their furniture and decorations, can now barely boast the com¬ monest articles of convenience, and it is with the utmost difficulty that a table, chair, or bedstead, can at present be procured. The cathedral is neither remarkable for its architectural regula¬ rity or taste ; on the contrary, one is surprized to see in the capital where the Roman Catholic
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religion is, or rather was, so honored, an edifice that does not correspond more with the former size and importance of this city ; the interior is divided by four rows of pillars at equal distances, consequently the nave has only the width of the aisles ; the principal altar, instead of being de¬ tached, is fixed to the wall, and notwithstanding the gaudiness of ornament, and a certain degree of grandeur, as respects the size and general effect, the several parts will not bear scrutiny. Depons informs us, that in 1641, a plan was laid for a superb structure, but when, in the com¬ mencement of the work, a severe shock of an earthquake arrested its progress ; it was then decided that solidity should take the lead of magnificence, and such is the character of the present building, which indeed its age bespeaks, having stood nearly two centuries, braving the repeated shocks of earthquakes, and above all, the overwhelming calamity of 1812, which has laid more than half the town in ruins.
The early settlers in Spanish America had more difficulty in conquering the district of Caracas than any other on the main, for within a circumference of ten or twelve leagues there were upwards of one hundred and fifty thousand Indians, governed by more than thirty Caciques : after desperate resistance they were at length
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conquered by Don Diego Losada, who founded the city in 1567. During our stay here the climate was most delightful, the maximum of heat not exceeding 75°, and the mornings and evenings sufficiently cool to make additional clothing agreeable. Fruits of various kinds are very abundant and delicious. A beautiful pano¬ rama of the vale and town of Caracas, might be taken from the ruins of an old hospital, situated on a gentle rise near the foot of the Silla.
This vale, formerly so celebrated for its great fertility and the value of its productions, is now, with the exception of a few Haciendas,* much neglected ; but it would be unfair from this cir¬ cumstance to judge of the people’s disposition to industry, for in no part of the Republic are they more distinguished for agricultural activity; the cause may very justly be assigned to the desolating and long protracted war, in which they have struggled for, and at length obtained their independence.
My next letter will probably give some ac¬ count of our progress towards Bogota: as a favourable opportunity presents itself of for¬ warding this to Europe, I will not detain it for further particulars.
* Estates.
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TOCUYO, 27 th March.
I intend to be faithful to my promise by informing you from time to time of our progress — the aspect of the country — its inhabitants — manners — customs — and general state of affairs. Although I feel and lament my incompetency to delineate these objects with the force they de¬ serve, to convey any thing like "an adequate idea of the grandeur and sublimity of the scenery — general fertility of the soil — its pro¬ ductions, spontaneous, and such as result from cultivation — both for want of the necessary in¬ formation, and from my very recent acquaintance with this quarter of the globe, I will endeavour to impart to you what little I have acquired by observation, resuming my journal from the period of our leaving Caracas. I must, how¬ ever, prepare you to expect many repetitions, for as all definitions of the same thing have a tendency to resemblance, so the descriptions of country, which frequently occur, must always bear in a degree that similarity to each other which they have generally to their object.
22 d Feb. After a stay of ten days at Caracas the object of our detention being satisfactorily arranged, we took leave of our friends at five in the afternoon, equipped with every requi-
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site and convenience for the journey to Bogota, the capital of the Republic, from hence a dis¬ tance computed at 1,200 miles !
The only method of travelling in this country being on mules, the best were provided that
Caracas afforded. - accompanying us a few
miles on our route, formed with the three tra¬ velling companions, and like number of servants, a larger cavalcade than had departed hence for some time. Tocuyo was fixed upon as the place of rendezvous, where the arriero in charge of our effects was to join us.
The evening as usual, was delightfully mild and serene; by sun-set we had gained the summit of an eminence from whence the retrospect of the city is extremely fine, backed by its lofty Cordillera, or range of Andean mountains, in the centre of which the Silla (so named from a dip between its east and west extremity, which gives it the shape of a saddle,) was eminently conspicuous : on the left of the road, situated in a delightful valley, and half enclosed by wooded heights, the first object of much interest that presented itself was a sugar plantation, belong¬ ing to a rich merchant of Caracas. The trans¬ parent tints of the cane, its romantic situation, the river Guayra winding through the plantation,
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together with a variety of trees peculiar to the western hemisphere, forming altogether a scene of deep interest. Our friend left us at the village of Antimon6, and we pursued our route through the vale of Caracas, once so celebrated for its richness and fertility, now in a state of compa¬ rative abandonment, but not less interesting from the noble struggle whence it has pro¬ ceeded : the moon shone with uncommon splen¬ dour to illumine this scene of novel and pecu¬ liar beauty ; on each side the road mountains rose to a great height, apparently meeting the brilliant stars that twinkled on their summits ; the murmuring Guayra still accompanying us. Such a scene, softened by a most delicious tem¬ perature — the stillness of the evening, inter¬ rupted only by the progress of the river and chirruping of crickets — was truly astonish¬ ing.
At eight o’clock we stopped at a small village, called “ Las Juntas” (from the junction of several streams,) to give time for the arrival of the bag¬ gage, our sable cook, a most important person¬ age, having already fallen in the rear. W e waited three hours in expectation of his arrival, when it became too late to proceed ; the hammocks were therefore slung under a shed in the Pal- peria, a method of rest to me so unusual that I
had little sleep, and was startled before it was light by the crowing of a fighting cock close at my ears. These animals are customary inha¬ bitants in all Palperias throughout the country. A messenger who had been dispatched after the cook returned without any tidings of him.
23 rd Feb. Sunday. We mounted at six, and quitting the plain of Caracas, began to ascend the mountains which separate it from the valleys of Aragon — here the river Guayra takes its source, and the country at every turn presents objects for encreasing admiration ; the road was steep, but our animals being such as con¬ quer all difficulties, we were soon enclosed by this branch of the Andes, which you must picture to yourself as the grandest of scenery ; indeed, on such a scale, that I am at a loss to give you any idea of it. The mountains are covered with the very richest verdure, and spontaneous natural ornaments. Trees and shrubs of such variety and exquisite beauty, as
quite astonish the inexperienced mind of a
8
European, and render every step of the deepest interest; a new object presents itself at every winding, and the attention is kept in a state of constant excitement by the magnificence of the changes. The richness of the verdure is not the least source of astonishment and admiration
15
in a tropical climate, where one expects to see vegetation parched and burnt by a vertical sun; here, on the contrary, it luxuriates in the greatest possible freshness; the climate is delicious, owing to the rarity of the air at so great an elevation. In fact , nature seems full , spreading her gifts with an abundant hand in the midst of a perpetual Spring! The road lay occasionally through beautifully verdant avenues ; it would then open to a panoramic view of the sea, of mountains that encompassed us, with here and there an inconsiderable spot of cultivation.
Having passed “ Buena vista, ” an eminence which describes its meaning, I must lead you on to the village of San Pedro, a distance of four leagues, which we performed before break¬ fast. Its site, in a small valley, is very roman¬ tic ; but the place itself is inconsiderable, consisting only of a few hovels, amongst which we found a Pulperia. It being Sunday, the inhabitants had assembled to witness a cock fight, a diversion peculiar to the day, and a very favorite amusement throughout the country. There were no less than four combatants in each corner of the room where our hammocks were placed, whose constant music interrupted our mid-day slumbers.
16
At two, we again mounted and commenced a steep ascent, the road still winding through a grand and naturally rich country, abounding in a variety of beautiful shrubs and wild flowers, such as in Europe would excite the greatest admiration. We dined at a place called Las Alajas, commanding! y situated on this summit, the highest point of the Cordillera. For our dinner, consisting only of a few eggs and a piece of lean pork dried in the sun, with a bottle of bad Catalonian wine, our simple mountain host would have charged us the moderate sum of seven dollars, the half of which he ultimately received with evident glee. The distance hence to Las Coquises (named after a species of aloe, which grows in great abundance in its vicinity) is three leagues ; but by such a steep descent, and so bad a road, resembling more the bed of a mountain torrent, than the principal commu¬ nication in the country, that it was late ere we reached it. The “ Posadero”* was gone to bed, and it required all our persuasion, accompanied by liberal promises, to induce him to open the door — one of the fraternity having been mal¬ treated by travellers a few nights before ; how¬ ever he made ample amends for our detention, by setting before us an excellent supper ; and was in himself so complete an original, as highly
* Innkeeper.
r
. ■ ■
<
17
to entertain us. It would indeed be difficult to find a better personification of Sancho than “ Coetano Rios;” the following are specimens of his poetry, as inscribed on the walls of the Posada :
Todo el que traiga Dinero,
Entre k tratar con este Ventero.
Companeros ! Hoy no’ se fia aqui,
Manana Si!
Vayan Entrando ; Yayan Coraiendo ;
Vayan pagando y Vayan Saliendo.
Ye who have pockets full, may enter here;
The host shall welcome — and ne’er doubt your cheer.
Traveller, no trust is given here to-day,
Well trust to-morrow, if to-day you pay.
Pray enter here, eat, drink your fill,
Merry depart — but pay your bill !
This is the first village in the plains of Aragua, so celebrated for their valuable productions and fertility. At ten o’clock we again proceeded, and had a most delightful ride to Consejo, two leagues distant. The moon shone with great splendour when we left the Posada, and fol¬ lowed the course of a small river, the Tuy. On our right the plain was cultivated with sugar cane,
c
V.
18
maize, and plantain, for about half a mile, when it terminated suddenly in high mountains richly wooded. On the opposite bank, they rose abruptly from the stream, the whole forming a view of great beauty in so soft a light. We found it expedient to take advantage of the moon-light nights as much as possible; they certainly tend to enhance the rich effect of such scenery. The same difficulty again occurred in gaining admittance here; and it was past twelve when we “ turned in,” after a long day’s journey.
2ith Feb. In the last village there is nothing worthy of remark ; like most others consisting of only a few cottages or huts, which are ex¬ tremely poor and miserable ; but the country now opening upon us, is as much noted for its luxuriant richness, as the lofty Cordillera for its magnificence. The valleys are generally the most productive, on account of the equal dis¬ tribution of heat and moisture ; the plains being- more exposed to the heat of the sun, are in general extensive pasturages — those of Aragua are considerable, the eye nevertheless encom¬ passes the boundary of mountains that enclose them. This tract is more abundantly favoured by nature, than any I have hitherto seen — its produce consisting of cocoa, coffee, sugar, indigo,
m
19
maize, cotton, plantain, and all kinds of fruits. The land is completely intersected with rivulets, and the attention is constantly attracted by a variety of birds of the most brilliant plumage, from the commencement of the vale.
At La Victoria we only stopped to see the church, formerly of great beauty and gran¬ deur, but its day has now gone by. This place was founded by the Missionaries; and from a small village, inhabited only by a few Indians, has risen to a very considerable town. It has many good houses, and the remains of others, that were destroyed by the overwhelming calamity that desolated Caracas and other cities in the Republic. In 1804, its population amounted to 7800 — now probably not a third of the number, from the Earthquake and the Revolution. Here, for the first time, we began to feel inconvenience from the heat : it became rather oppressive ere we reached San Matteo, a small village with a tolerably good Posada, taking its name from an hacienda of considerable extent and richness, belonging to Bolivar, at the entrance. It is one of the largest in the country, consisting principally of sugar-cane plantations. Notwithstanding the quantity of sugar that is
s
grown in Venezuela, but l ittle (and I am not aware if any) is exported, owing to the amazing con-
c 2
sumption at home; large quantities are consumed in making “ Guarapo,” the common beverage of the lower order ; it consists simply of sugar and water, which is made to undergo the vinous fermentation, after which it possesses intoxicat¬ ing qualities. A great deal of “popelon” is eaten by the common people, either with or instead of bread— this is sugar in its first state, before the treacle is extracted. Preserves and sweetmeats are in very general use by all classes, and are another great means of consumption The plant requires a warm climate, rich soil, and abundance of water; according to the degree of heat it is from nine to sixteen months in. ripening -it is then cut down and sent to the mill, the upper part of each cane being reserved for re-planting. When cut, it is immediately carried to the press, and thence the juice to the boilers ; if left only a short time a fermentation would take place, that would greatly destroy the saccharine qualities ; the process of refining follows, which is not carried to half the per¬ fection in which it is done in England, or is it at all to be compared to the Brazilian sugar. If I am not mistaken, a decisive battle was fought in the neighbourhood of this place. »
On opening my best thermometer to ascer¬ tain the temperature of this place, the hottest
21
we have yet come to, I was truly grieved to find it broken, owing I suppose to the rough¬ ness of the carriage ; the loss is irreparable, my smaller one having been broken in coming from La Guayra. We remained here during the heat of the day, reposing in our hammocks, which indeed we find necessary, to make up for short nights. The continuation of to-day’s journey is, if possible, more beautiful than the com¬ mencement of the Vale. A large Hacienda, belonging to Don F. Tovar, in particular, exceeds in exuberance of rich foliage and um¬ brageous coffee and cocoa plantations, any thing of the kind I have yet seen. Between seven and eight we reached the large village of Maracay — a march of five leagues. This place is regularly built, and contains a number of large houses, which are sufficiently commodious and solid, the greater number being of stone ; most of them have gardens attached, a custom little known in this country, probably on account of the extreme indolence of the people — this circumstance alone justifies the character for industry which is usually given to the inhabitants of this village. According to the custom of the country we sought lodging in a private house, the ladies of which received us with the usual good nature and hospitality that are invariaoly shewn to travellers, amusing us moreover by
22
singing national airs, although in a style that cannot be much extolled. We were visited here by two young naturalists, who were sent out by Mr. Zea, forming part of an Academy of Science, which he was preparing the foun¬ dation of, for the general improvement of the country. It appears that their researches have been attended with success, both in Botany and Mineralogy, during their short progress. When at Caracas, they ascended the Silla, an undertaking of some difficulty and danger, and were successful in discovering the Milk Tree , described by Humboldt ; the liquid that is extracted from it exactly resembles milk; so strong is the affinity, that upon analization it proved to contain the same animal properties. They intend proceeding further with their researches.
The renowned General Paez with all his staff passed us this evening — a man as remarkable for courage, as he has been eminently successful in his country’s cause; he is second to none but Bolivar in the regeneration of this part of America, and is as much esteemed by his troops, as feared by the enemy ; he generally travels with considerable pomp, accompanied by a numerous staff. This place may be considered within the limits of the blockading army of
23
Puerto Cabello, and has somewhat the appear¬ ance of military rule. We were glad to swing our hammocks in the open air, the night being very close.
2 5th Feb . At four in the morning we began making preparations for our departure “en route, ” favoured by the moon and freshness of the morning air.- We reached the borders of the beautiful Lake of Valencia, just as the moon was retiring behind the mountains, which bound it on the West. At the same time, the sun rising in dazzling splendour from the fertile vale, gilded its placid waters with the most delicate tints. Situated in a charming valley — surrounded by mountains of the richest and most agreeable vegetation — studded as it is with numerous and picturesque islands, adorned by the freshest verdure — I thought, as we traced the road which winds round the Lake, that it was one of the most exquisite sights imaginable. This scene is compared by travellers to the Lake of Geneva, which it is said much to resemble. In its greatest length it is about forty-two miles, and twelve in breadth, and nearly twenty different rivers are said to fall into it ; notwithstanding which, without having any outlet, the waters do not encrease — their non- accumulation is conjectured to arise from
i
some subterraneous exit, as it would be impos¬ sible for evaporation alone to consume the influx.
At Fort Cabrera, built on an eminence, for¬ merly an Island, on the borders of the Lake, we should have been stopped to shew our pass¬ ports, which were improvidently left with the baggage, had not our friend - fortunately been
acquainted with the Commandant, who allowed us to pass. The richness of the foliage, and de¬ licious perfume exhaled from various odoriferous shrubs, was very agreeable, together with the freshness of the morning ; but as we advanced towards the Condillera, the country became more arid. At half-past eight we reached San Joaehin, a distance of six leagues, having passed a fine Hacienda of Cocoa. Here we remained till four in the afternoon in consequence of the heat, and were well taken care of by the Fosadera and her daughters, who were rather superior and agreeable lasses. A letter was hence dispatched by - to a particular friend
of his at Valencia, Don Fernando Penalver, to apprize him of our approach, and intention to rest a day at his house. We followed at four, and had a very cool and pleasant ride of five leagues, passing the village of Guacara, where we met Don Francisco, a brother of the Marquis Toro,
25
also an old friend of his. It was eight when we entered Valencia, and no sooner were we housed, than a tremendous storm came on ; the rain fell in torrents for three hours in a manner peculiar to this hemisphere.
Valencia, situated in a large plain, a little to the west of the lake, is a large town, the next in size to Caracas, and at present the head quarters of the army investing Puerto Cavello. There are about two thousand troops here, and amongst them most of the English that have survived the different cam¬ paigns. The entrance to the town is by a good bridge of three arches, built of stone and brick, and described as the best by far of any in the Republic. The “ Glorieta at¬ tached to it, is a large circular seat, enclosing an area, where the inhaoitants meet in the evening for dancing and festivity. This is, in fact, the only public promenade. Of the few benefits bestowed on the country, by the Spaniards, this is one. The bridge and Glo¬ rieta were erected by Morales, not many years since. The town contains many large houses, the best of which are occupied by the military : a greater number are in ruins, presenting a further memento of the ravages committed by the earthquake. The population is not, how-
V
26
ever, proportioned to its present size. In this, as well as in respect to its resources, the prolonged and harassing war has left behind it, most melancholy memorials. Valencia has an appearance of antiquity : I believe it was founded in 1555, by Alonso Dias Moreno.
2 6th Feb. General Paez, the commander in chief, arrived at eig’ht in the morning, from Maracay, a distance of forty miles. It is his usual custom, when travelling, to start at mid¬ night, to prevent his movements being known. He is described as a most active man, cour¬ teous in his manners to foreigners, and in his person quite the beau. No officer in the ser¬ vice has so good or so large a stud ; he is, conse¬ quently, always extremely well mounted. His vigilance in the blockade of Puerto Cavello is very great; notwithstanding which, the par¬ tisans of the old system, many of whom have taken refuge in Curacoa, contrive occasionally to introduce succours to the besieged. It is not many days since a brig from the island, laden with provisions, evaded the vigilance of the Commodore, and got into the port. But for this assistance, it was thought the garrison could not have held out many days, being much straitened. It is, I am informed, naturally the strongest, and the best fortified
1
\
27
%
town on the coast, and its occupation by the enemy is a serious loss to the country, being the principal entrepot for the commerce of this part of Venezuela. The town is described as being very unhealthy as soon as the rains set in, when the stagnant waters in the marshes with which it is encompassed, that have been putrefying during the hot months, being set in motion, the exhalations cause fever of a most malignant kind, particularly destructive to Europeans. When the port is liberated, Va¬ lencia will probably become a place of much commerce. The distance between the two is only six or seven leagues, and the communi¬ cation is facilitated by a good road. Indepen¬ dently of the stimulus to cultivation offered by its vicinity to so good a port, Valencia enjoys a great fertility of soil and a warm climate , it is necessarily the medium for imports and exports to and from the valleys of Aragua, St. Carlos, Tocuyo, Barquisimeto, &c., com¬ prising the richest district of Venezuela. A great stagnation to trade is ht present caused by the difficulty of transport; the growers having to send their produce from the above districts overland to Caracas, at a very con¬ siderable expense.
General Paez sent for - this morning, and
I
i
I
f
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28
gave him, in addition to General Soublette’s i ecommendatory letter, one that will ensure to us the aid and assistance of every “ bon Colom- biano” should we stand in need of it on the route. There is, probably, no man in the Republic whose wishes would be more parti¬ cularly attended to, his valour having made him universally respected.
During our stay in Valencia, Mr _ read us
a most interesting letter which he had received from Bolivar. It was quite a friendly and private communication ; and the more valuable, as shewing the unreserved opinions of the writer. Its principal object was, to be informed of the state of affairs in Venezuela; in all probability previous to the President’s making up his mind as to going to the assistance of Peru ; taking at the same time a glance at the moral and political condition of the several republics of South America. The sentiments it contains are not only those of a true patriot, but bear all the impression of a noble and generous mind, ardent in his country’s cause for her benefit alone, in which his whole soul seemed to be engrossed. With a spirit of prophecy highly creditable to his judgment as a statesman, he laments, in the liveliest terms, the evil that must accrue to Mexico from the ambition of Iturbide
29
and speaks of the time as arrived, when, in the Western Hemisphere, despotism must bow be¬ fore public opinion ; in fact, from its ingenuous expressions — the nature of the communication — to one of his oldest friends and active coadjutors in the regeneration of America — a man who is looked upon as one of its ablest senators no¬ thing could have been more interesting to us than the opportunity of perusing such a docu¬ ment. The mind of the illustrious writer shone forth in every line, and excited in us a degree of admiration and respect for his character, that
I know not how to describe.
\
In addition to the above, I should not omit a slight sketch of our hospitable host. His conversation is that of an intelligent and en¬ lightened mind— one who has profited by his communication with the world, and dismissed prejudices that are natural to the American character. His having been President of the first National Congress, bespeaks the esti¬ mation in which he is held by his countrymen ; in addition to which, although our acquaintance was but short, I am sure I do not overrate his merits in describing him as a very amiable man, and one who would be received in any society with respect and consideration. He is living at present in a very quiet way, although pos-
sessing one of the finest estates in the country; but it having suffered much during the war, he very wisely appropriates all his disposable means to its restoration, when he will probably receive from it fifty or sixty thousand dollars a year, a very considerable fortune in a country where luxuries are but little known, or indeed (what in England would be considered) the com¬ mon conveniences of life. Few of his country¬ men, whose property is in like manner deterio¬ rated, possess the same prudence.
21th Feb. We left Valencia between eight and nine in the morning, accompanied a few miles by our worthy host ; here we obtained an addition to our studs of three fine saddle mules, making eight animals for our own use, indepen¬ dently of those for the servants and baggage ; so that with the first recommendations in the coun¬ try, the friendship and respect that all the lead¬ ing men entertain for - , who indeed has ren¬
dered them important services, this supply can¬ not fail to diminish very considerably the diffi¬ culties and inconveniences of this long* journey, in a country so devastated by war, and deprived of the usual accommodations that travellers stand in need of. We arrived at Tocuyito in the middle °f ithe day, after an almost suffocating ride of three leagues across a savannah, in which there
31
is nothing worthy of observation excepting the natural luxuriance of the herbage ; the approach was the more grateful, the village being prettily situated in the midst of Haciendas and green foliage. We were particularly fortunate in meet¬ ing with some ladies of - s acquaintance,
one of whom was the most obliging, lively, and amiable Colombians, that I have yet seen ; the best of every thing that the house afforded was immediately in requisition for us, and while dinner was preparing, we were regaled with delicious fruits, and moreover had the luxury of a cold bath in the shade of a coffee plantation adjoining the house. Here, in fact, we expe¬ rienced to its full extent the hospitality for which Valencia and its neighbourhood are so dis¬ tinguished, and it was with regret we took leave of our kind friends at three o’clock, pursuing our route along the road by which the Spaniards retreated after their signal defeat at Carabobo, first to Valencia, and thence to Puerto Cavello, to which spot they have since been confined. We reached the field of battle just before dusk, but unfortunately, not in time to see the respective positions. The Spaniards were pur¬ sued with considerable slaughter by the victors through Tocuyito to Valencia, and on to Puerto Cavello. By the road side, and scattered over the
• -■ ■ ■ •• • ■ -« X,
32
plain, we observed the remains of many of the unfortunate Godos (Goths, the name by which the Spaniards are usually recognized by the patriots,) who were killed in the retreat. After quitting the plain, the road became very preci¬ pitous and romantic, either winding along the side of mountains, or descending into deep dells, in the bottom of each a stream or rivulet was invariably found. The moon had not yet risen, and but few stars were occasionally visible through the thick foliage that towers above the deep ravines, to relieve the darkness of the de¬ scent. At the bottom myriads of fire flies and other luminous insects which floated on the sur¬ face of the water, tended only to make the gloom more apparent, which, accompanied by the hoarse croaking of toads, hissing of serpents, and chirruping of crickets, formed altogether quite a scene of romance. In the steepness of the ascent from these occasional ravines, our sumpter mule twice broke down, and at one moment (being blind of one eye,) was as nearly as possible precipitated down a steep, which would at once have eased us of him and the effects. After repeated disasters such as the above, the led mules getting astray (and all without embellishment,) we at length, at eleven o’clock, reached a hovel, called “ El Hayo,” a distance of six leagues from Tocuyito ; the
33
animals, as well as ourselves, completely tired. We, therefore, with some difficulty persuaded the inhabitants — -a half-starved Indian woman, and a young girl — to open the door, and receive our canteens, saddles, &c. ; the animals being fastened to a cane fence, while the servants went upon a forage. The Indian woman in the mean time made a fire, and prepared our cho¬ colate (which, by the bye, proves a great re¬ source in this land of bad living.) Couldyouhave seen us seated on blocks round the embers, sip¬ ping our repast out of Indian calabashes , our two dingy attendants hardly knowing what to make of us, in the back-ground the stud tied round the small enclosure, you would have thought it an amusing groupe. The ham¬ mocks were slung in the small place which served us as our kitchen, but from the damp¬ ness of the atmosphere in this low spot, our slumbers were neither sound or refreshing, and we were glad to move as soon as the morning dawned.
Feb. 28 th. Hence to Tinaquillo, a distance of four leagues, there is nothing remarkable in the route, excepting that the roads are good ; indeed, since descending into the valleys of Aragua, with very few exceptions, there would be no impediment to carriage conveyance, either
D
for the purposes of agriculture or of commerce. The various and beautiful plumage of the birds here is very remarkable, the commonest amongst them would be considered curiosities iu Enrope, while there are many of exceeding beauty. The mocking-bird builds its nest in an ingenious manner, to protect it from the depredations of the destructive vermin which abound so much in this country ; it is suspended from extremities of the branches, and is often from one to two feet in length, and very curiously bound together. Par¬ rots and parroquets are very abundant, and make a great chattering, as they fly about in large flocks. The cardinal is another beautiful bird, entirely scarlet; the tropical, equally pretty, and much esteemed ; the most abundant is a small dove, which is perfectly tame ; there are others of a larger kind and fine plumage. We have shot several macaws, the colours of which are exceedingly brilliant. Indeed, if facilities of conveyance and preservation offered, one might make a very interesting zoological collection. There is also a fine bird, called the “ Guacharaca,” very like our pheasant, and somewhat similar in flavour ; they are plentiful in the plains, and are easily shot.
The approach to Tinaquillo is extremely pretty, on account of the freshness of the verdure,
and its pleasing contrast to the monotonous sa¬ vannahs we have lately passed. In the village, however, there is nothing worth recording ; the houses are straggling and as poor looking as the inhabitants, who are reduced to few in number. Indeed, in every place we have yet passed through, the war has decreased the population to the lowest ebb ; there was a tolerable Pul- peria, where we breakfasted, and took an early dinner, resuming our march between three and four o’clock. The position of Tinaco you will perhaps not find even in a good map, but it may be considered midway between Valencia and Barquesimeto. The ride here in the cool of the evening was extremely pleasant and varied, par¬ taking much of the wild and romantic scenery we passed last night; the moon rose at nine, rendering the latter part of our journey doubly agreeable. It was eleven o’clock before we entered Tinaco, and then had some difficulty in procuring lodging for ourselves and beasts, through the cook’s stupidity, who had been sent forward purposely to secure them. To effect this, it is only necessary to forward General Paez’s letter to the Alcalde, and quarters are always provided. It was our intention to start hence for San Carlos, at four in the morning, but we were not off till sun-rise, having overslept ourselves, notwithstanding the same shed served
d 2
for us and the mules — trifles that we travellers become accustomed to ; indeed, this occurrence is generally a source of mirth rather than vex¬ ation.
Tinaco is a large village, but having entered it so late, and left it at day-break, I cannot con - scientiously attempt a description of its pecu¬ liarities.
• '*■*
1 st March. The ride to San Carlos was ex¬ tremely sultry, it being near ten o’clock before we were lodged. The approach is by far the most interesting of any town we have seen ; there is a good deal of cultivation in its imme¬ diate vicinity, the produce being of that luxu¬ riant kind, which invariably characterises and rewards industry in this favoured land. The “ annil,” or indigo, is amongst the richest of its vegetation. “ This valuable plant was first cul¬ tivated in Venezuela in 3 774; the attempt “ being ridiculed at the time, but in the result “ ^ proved a rival to that of Guatimala, the " price of which had always till then been 80 “ Per cent, above that of any other part of the “ globe. Ihe spot where it is chiefly raised is the valley of Aragua, where it has increased with amazing rapidity and success. It requires a light soil, hot climate, and but little moisture.
37
ff
To extract the indigo the greatest degree of care and experience is necessary. The plant is first mixed with water ; in this state it undergoes a fermentation to a particular extent ; it is then boiled, and the blue is precipitated; after which it is dried in the sun, and formed into cakes for use.
As you approach the town several white steeples, and the remains of large edifices, are visible above the rich foliage, as well as some me¬ mentos of the same tremendous visitation of which we have found so many traces in Venezuela. On the north it is bounded by the lofty Cordillera, which stretches along the coast from Coro to Cu- mana, as singular in its appearance as it is an essential provision of nature against the en¬ croachments of the sea, which would otherwise, in all probability, inundate the immense expanse of Savannah, or “ Llano’s,” which extend as far as the Orinoco, constituting (or rather have done so, for they are now comparatively ruined,) the great source of the riches of this province from the amazing quantity of horned cattle, horses, and mules that have been raised in them. To the south, these plains are some hundred miles in extent. We were quartered in one of the best houses in the town, exhibiting in its gilded mouldings, the remains of former riches. Its principal inhabitants are now bats and spiders.
I
38
The owner, Don Andres Herrera, a name distin¬ guished amongst the conquerors of the New World, was one of the richest men of the place, but is now reduced to comparative poverty, from the depredations of one party, and the necessary exactions of the other, for the support of their cause. The resources of this town were for¬ merly immense, indeed, I am told, almost in¬ credible, as there were individuals possessing wealth beyond their power of computation, from the amazing and incalculable increase in cattle, the principal source of their prosperity ; but a most destructive warfare has proved that the spring was not inexhaustible. There now barely remains a sufficiency for the common purposes of freight and conveyance ; and unless timely measures be adopted to replenish the breeding stock, the country will sustain a most serious loss in the extinction of this branch of traffic. There are several churches in San Carlos, of neat and rather elegant exterior, one of which was built at the sole expence of an in¬ dividual of the town. Some large houses have withstood the earthquake, more are in ruins, as well as the greater part of the town ; but should the time arrive, when the government or indi¬ viduals may be enabled to rebuild or renovate this place, it may be made one of the prettiest towns in the province. The principal objection
to it as a residence, is the excessive heat which prevails. During our stay, the glass was at 96, a heat beyond any we have yet experienced. At times I understand it is much higher. The oranges grown here are considered by the natives to be the best in the world ; they are excellent, but not, in my opinion, equal to European fruit. The population is computed at five or six thou¬ sand, including probably the adjacent villages. To avoid as much as possible the heat of the day, as well as to ensure to our animals better fare than they have lately had, we did not leave till one the following morning.
2nd March, (Sunday.) Passing through “ San Jos6,” about a league from the town, we reached La Ceva, another small hamlet, at five leagues distance, by sun-rise, where we took our cho¬ colate, and proceeded without loss of time. This tract consists principally of savannah, which is susceptible of the highest cultivation : a proof of it is to be found in the great vigour of the herbage, watered by numerous rivulets, which continually intersect the plains . The situation of the Pulperia, where we refreshed ourselves, was such as would be envied in the most favoured spots in Europe. On the north, for about a mile, there was a rich flat, capable of producing all that nature requires, backed by a range of low but
picturesque hills, a scattering of wood suc¬ ceeded, beyond which rose a range of lofty mountains. It is painful to see such favoured spots entirely neglected, possessing as they do, a climate and soil that only require the seed to be scattered on the surface, to produce in three or four months a most abundant har¬ vest. Having a long day before us, we pushed on at six o’clock, the country increasing in variety and interest. Now, in confined vallies, invariably watered by a small stream as clear as chrystal, succeeded by undulating hills, which produce spontaneously a variety of beau¬ tiful shrubs, occasionally a few trees are seen, such as I imagine from their size and beauti¬ ful foliage, are to be met with only in the western hemisphere ; in fact, it was quite park¬ like scenery, enlivened by numerous birds of the most brilliant plumage, with wild deer browsing at a distance on the verdant hillocks.
The sun became very powerful ere we reached Caramacat, a straggling Indian village, of mise¬ rable appearance, at the distance of ten leagues from San Carlos, which I made eleven by miss¬ ing the road: the mule being completely fagged, I remained a little in the rear, and took a wrong path, but fortunately fell in with an Indian,
41
from whom I learnt my mistake. We took up our residence here at the house of the Alcalde, or chief magistrate; but when I use this term I must caution you against forming too high a notion of his importance, for these dignitaries usually keep their Pulperias, exercising at the same time uncontrolled authority over their respective towns or villages. While the Alcalde prepared our breakfast he did not consider it derogatory to attend to the cattle ! The aspect of this place is that of perfect po¬ verty, and the lowest degree of civilization, for a country that lays claim to its possession. However, we had nothing to object to our host _ a little squat man, his head shorn of all its co¬ vering but a single curl, which fell in plaits over his forehead ; for in his double capacity of Chief Magistrate and Pulpero, he did not scruple to lay aside the forms of office, and to provide us a meal, if not the most luxurious, the best the place afforded. It being thought desirable that we should push on a little further before night, having a very high mountain to pass, called “ Montana del Altar we left Caramacal at four o’clock, immediately penetrating into the thick wood that skirts the village, and amongst which there are trees of majestic growth. We met an Indian family, the men armed with large
bows and arrows, and the whole groupe so con¬ sonant with the position and solitude of the place, that it gave one the idea of being trans¬ ported amongst the wild Ab-origines of America; having traversed it about a league, we were' stopped in our progress by a rapid river (Co- gedes), which it was necessary to pass to regain the road. A canoe was moored on the opposite bank, but we could not with all our efforts make
ourselves heard by the ferry-man. _ and
myself who were foremost, attempted toford,but we soon found ourselves floating down with the stream, and were very glad to regain the shore,
at the expence of a complete ducking. - in
coming up had observed a practicable part higher up, where we effected a passage, and thence proceeded to the ascent, which satisfied us of the expediency of having pushed on for thispart before dark. As a precipitous and difficult pass, it exceeds any thing we have yet encountered ! An¬ other league brought us to a miserable Pulperia, where we proposed passing the night, after a long march of thirteen leagues. All we could obtain for refreshment was “ Guarapo,” (the liquor I have before mehtioned as being extracted from sugar, neither unpleasant nor unwholesome) and cassava bread, made from the yaca plant, which also pro¬ duces arrow-root ; this is the common sustenance of the Indians. Our animals were reduced to feed upon the thatch of the Pulperia.
/
43
March 3rd. At two in the morning we were again on the move, to benefit by the moon, and to avoid as much as possible the burning sun. We had now passed the steepest of the ascent, the road was nevertheless quite of a novel character, and differing from any thing I have before seen. I can only assimilate it to what my fancy has painted “ Vallambrosa,’ or the more imaginary gloom of the enchanted F orest in La Gierusalemme Liberata.” Although the moon shone with great splendour, this dark pass was impervious to her rays, from the height and close texture of the intwining branches — even the sun’s beams never penetrate them , hence the cause of marshy spots, which in the rainy season are often impassable. We rode for miles in almost total obscurity— the trifling light that entered, being just sufficient to shew the gigantic size, and great variety of trees with which the forest was composed ; amongst them were a great many palms of beautiful growth and uncommon height, probably from eighty to one hundred feet, the rugged pathway frequently obstructed by some that had fallen from age or tempest; the knowledge of the existence of wild beasts in so retired a spot, gave additional novelty and romance to this grand, but gloomy scene 1
At two leagues from the place whence we started, we emerged from the darkness of “ El Altar,” at a place called “ Boca del Montana,” arriving at day-break at Cugisita, an incon¬ siderable village— the knapsack being ransacked and the mules fed, we proceeded another four leagues, to La Morita, a small and scattered hamlet. The road hither being much diversified with hill and dale, and park like scenery, from one or two eminences commands rich views, of a tract but little cultivated. On ,our left, was a very extensive range of mountains running north and south. The place itself deserves no other mention, than to record the extreme poverty and wretched “ accommoda¬ tion of the miserable Pulperia. Having rested during the heat of the day, we were again in march at three o’clock, passing through a tract of country highly gifted with the spontaneous productions of so favoured a climate. It was dusk when we entered Augare, a village of very considerable extent, neat in appearance, and evidently containing a redundant population— the only place, in fact, where the inhabitants have appeared at all adequate to the number of buildings. This is satisfactorily accounted for in the extensive and valuable haciendas of indigo, cocoa, and sugar cane, in the Vale eastward of the range of mountains I before
45
mentioned, which is abundantly watered by the river Cogedes, and various minor streams, tend¬ ing to enrich to an amazing extent a soil, already abundantly prolific. We were much mor¬ tified at passing through this luxuriant Vale, which is of considerable extent, at dusk, when -we could not enjoy its beauties especially as this is the season when the crops are in the highest perfection. We had to ford the river Cogedes five or six times ere we reached the ascent that leads to Barquesimeto, and it was eight o’clock before we obtained quarters, in consequence of the remnants of this town being filled with refugees from Coro, and the borders of the Lake of Maracaibo, who have fled before the marauding bands of Morales. The house of the curate was assigned to us, and we weie received by him with the courtesy and hospi¬ tality for which his Cloth are celebrated through¬ out the Republic— a distinction must be made between the monks and the parish priests— the former are almost proscribed, while the latter constitute not only a useful, but very patriotic class of citizens. This was another long day’s journey of twelve leagues.
Barquesimeto and its environs are supposed to contain a population of between eight and ten thousand persons, by far the greater portion
46
inhabiting the villages — the town is but a rem¬ nant of what it was formerly. In no part of the province of Venezuela has the earthquake committed such appalling ravages as in this ill-fated place— not even in Caracas, a great part of which withstood the shock, but here, I am told scarcely a house remained entire ; and of its comparatively small population 1500 in¬ habitants were buried in the ruins! The inhabited part is now comparatively small, having been built since the awful visitation from the materials that abound in every direction, and still its fallen edifices present a mournful picture of desolation. The town is situated at the extremity of an extensive table mountain, which is again enclosed by still higher eminences (the fertile valleys intervening), hence probably the cause of the severity of the shock. Situated on this Plateau it has the benefit of constant breezes, which cool in a degree its excessively hot climate. This town is fifteen years older than Caracas, having been founded in 1552, by a Spaniard named Villegas.
March Ath. It was 4 o’clock in the afternoon of the 4th, before we thanked the hospitable Curate for his attentions, and again were on the road — passed a small and miserable place called Seritos Blancos ; descending from whence we
47
reached Los Horcones at seven o’clock — tnree leagues from Barquesimeto.
* » j ' i ♦ * » • : ? 4- * * - ‘ * • ' •
At half-past two, as soon as the moon rose, we left Los Horcones, and traversed an uninterest¬ ing and arid tract, where the only vegetation consists in abundance of the prickly pear (the tree of which grows to a large size, and in most fantastic shapes), aloes, and a species of dwarf cedar. We arrived at Chibor to an early break¬ fast. Here again we found a great many emigrants from Coro, & c. who had fled with part of their property rather than risk the whole under the rapacity of Morales and his followers. The village is rather considerable, and presents many symptoms of regeneration. Houses are being repaired — others rising from their ruins, but all on a small scale— a neat church has also lately been erected. Being anxious to reach the first place of rest, both for ourselves and animals, who in fact are much more wearied than we are, we left Chibor at nine o clock, the country assuming the same aspect as above, consequently but of little interest, till by descending a winding ravine, we found ourselves enclosed on all sides by mountains. The sun here became very powerful, and by the time we entered Tocuyo, the heat was excessive ! Here we shall remain until the bulk of our
/
liaggage, which is left in charge of an Arriero, arrives from Caracas. My next letter will probably be dated from the City of Merida.
MERIDA , March 22, 1823.
I now enter on the second division of our journey — namely, from Tocuyo to Merida, both in the province of Venezuela, which you are aware, no doubt, derived its name from several villages built on piles in the Lake of Maracaibo, which according to Robertson, bore a resemblance to Venice, hence the above name meaning little Venice, afterwards extending itself to the whole province.
The town of Tocuyo was founded as far back as the year 1545, by an agent of the Welser’s Company, to whom Venezuela had been ceded by Spain; but who were afterwards expelled the country. We were detained here from the 5th to the 11th of March, in consequence of our luggage not having arrived from Caracas. Senor Arraiz, a civil and obliging native of the place,
49
accommodated us with his house during our
stay, where we were tolerably at our ease.
\.
The site of this town after that of Caracas is the best we have seen ; but the climate is at least ten degrees hotter, as there is seldom much air stirring; the mean heat during our stay was eighty-six degrees. The plain in which it is situated is about three leagues long, and one in breadth, with the river Tocuyo winding through it at the back of the town ; between it, and a chain of high calcareous mountains running from N. E. to S. W. there is a considerable tract of fertile land, the produce of which is principally sugar cane, maize, and plantains ; but the nature of its soil is adapted to all sorts of cultivation — the wheat from hence, in par¬ ticular, being much esteemed. The opposite range is more wooded, but exhibits less rich¬ ness in the intervening flat. We are here shut in on all sides by mountains. The town, though large, has not been a place of much commerce, farther than in the exchange of its agricultural productions. It, therefore, seems an anomaly, that it should formerly have supported two convents — the one of Franciscans, the other Dominicans ; besides which, there were three parish churches, and a public hospital— the former having suffered by the earthquake, the
E
50
Franciscan convent, which with the exception of the Cathedral at Caracas, is the finest reli¬ gious edifice I have seen, is converted into the “ Parochia, ” and service is regularly performed there, since the suppression of the monasteries. The population at present does not exceed from three to four thousand persons. We met with every assistance from the Political Judge (Juez Politico) in procuring fresh baggage mules, not¬ withstanding an embargo had been laid upon all animals in the neighbourhood for the Govern¬ ment service.
- t ,
4
Like all other towns in this - country, the streets run at right angles ; generally speaking, they contain but few good houses. During our stay here, there was very little variety in our
occupations. Once or twice - - took out his
s-un. and brought home some herons and macaws; the flesh of the latter is much esteemed by the natives. In the evenings there was a sort of rendezvous at the river, where the females make no scruple of bathing at the same time and place with the men ! The best article of provision here is the bread, called “Pan de Tunja.” It appeared to me the best I had tasted, being very white and rather sweet. Fruits were not very abundant, we could only procure oranges and water melons. Here it
.
51
was necessary to leave our horses, and purchase three fresh mules in their stead.
Wth March. We set out at seven in the morning, more regularly organized in marching order — -as from hence the difficult passes com¬ mence. The road is level and good for the first four leagues, winding through a defile of rich, varied, and cultivated land, abundantly wa¬ tered. Its productions appeared to be cane, maize, plantains, and there were one or two haciendas of cocoa. There are several pretty passes through the latter, especially where the road led down to the river, which runs over a rocky bed with considerable impetuosity; a range of sterile mountains on either side this pass, rise gradually as you approach Olmucaro; their only produce being a species of wild lilac, of a fixed, and much brighter colour than the European plant. It was near four when we entered “ Olmucaro Abaxo, ” a small In¬ dian village, consisting of about forty houses or detached huts, and probably two hun¬ dred inhabitants, descendants of the original owners of the soil, who were reduced to the lowest state of indigent wretchedness, by the oppressive system of government, instituted by Old Spain, and its selfish and narrow¬ minded policy in keeping them in a state of
e 2
^ _
brute-like ignorance, and the most servile sub¬ jection — the natural consequence of which is, a disregard of all moral obligations. But in the midst of their poverty and degradation, there is to be observed in these poor Indians, a great degree of primitive simplicity, meek¬ ness of disposition, and a willingness to oblige — qualities that under present aus¬ pices may yet be rendered highly valuable ! The Alcalde from whom we had bought a mule at Tocuyo, had prepared for us an apartment in the guard-house — the ad¬ joining one being occupied by some Indian Conscripts, the contingent furnished by the village, in consequence of an assessment which has been made throughout the province ; out of its small population, Olmucaro has lately been called upon for fifteen recruits. The subdued spirit of these poor people is strongly exempli¬ fied in their prison discipline — there not being even a door to secure them, and merely a sen¬ try placed at the entrance. They are in ge¬ neral strong, well proportioned men, capable of undergoing much fatigue, and inured to the greatest privations. For a trifle some of them brought us a sufficient supply of forage for the animals. We had provided ourselves with a cold dinner at Tocuyo, and the first time made use of the canteens, a real luxury in
53
a tract of country where a knife and fork is seldom used, and a plate frequently a novelty. To reach the place we had a long ascent from the bed of the river. It is situated at what is called the extremity of the plains — ( Llanos ) shut in on all sides by mountains, and immediately at the foot of one of immense per¬ pendicular height. The temperature is agree¬ able, being eight degrees cooler than Tocuyo.
12 th March. At six o’clock we left the vil¬ lage, taking with us the servants, and one baggage animal to convey the canteens, the remainder, together with the spare mules, will henceforth follow, and join us at night at a given place. x Such is our marching order.
We descended by a steep and craggy path, till we again met the river Tocuyo at the bottom of a deep ravine. A rude bridge formed of the trunks of trees bound together, was raised on buttresses of stone, on either side, at a con¬ siderable elevation from the stream, which issuing from fissures in the mountains, foamed down a rocky bed. It was with great difficulty we got the mules over, and proceeded up a narrow defile, threatened by overhanging rocks and “ cloud capped ” mountains. At this spot the above river takes its rise, receiving several
%
tributary streams, which issue from the moun¬ tain, and join in its course. I saw last year, in Wales, some grand passes, where the scenery was magnificent, and a greater body of water foaming down rocky precipices ; but when compared with this, the recollection dwindles into comparative insignificance. Here the na¬ tural accompaniments are inconceivably grand, and beggar my humble powers of description. The more we advanced, the greater was our asto¬ nishment at these beautiful scenes — Nature’s sole work ! Winding along avenues of luxu¬ riant foliage of the most varied description,;- amongst which, overhanging the stream, were trees of gigantic size — many loaded with a white kind of moss, dropping from the branches like pendent icicles — others covered with ivy, or festooned with arches of bignonia, which stretch from tree to tree in verdant arcades, forming rich contrasts with those bearing an orange-coloured and deep blue flower — flocks of parroquets, doves, tropiales, &c. added to the novelty of a scene to all of us of the most intense interest! We now began the ascent of one of the highest and most difficult passes in the route — that between Olmucaro and Agua de Obispos, winding a considerable time up a precipitous and barren mountain, succeeded by others covered with immense forests composed
55
of the same rich variety of trees, which, from their height and size, must have stood for ages. The more we gained ground the more distant appeared the steep we had to climb ; but the sublimity of this mountain world would have repaid any fatigue. After four hours of con¬ stant ascent we reached some sheds about the middle of the mountain, which had been erected by Morillo as a covering for troops who secured the pass. Here we made a halt, and had recourse to our canteens, furnished with a tolerable breakfast, which we enjoyed exceedingly in this romantic and magnificent wilderness. The temperature, owing to the great elevation, was cool and agreeable, and we found a spring of delicious water close at hand. It would be difficult to conceive the true grandeur of this spot, surrounded on all sides by immense barriers — some covered with impervious forests—the verdant foliage relieved by a sprinkling of trees, the leaves of which appeared white as snow— in parts immense crags of rock projecting through the foliage from the sides of the mountain — others more sterile, and of immense elevation — the solemn silence disturbed only by the murmuring of water down the rocky precipices! It was near two o’clock when we arrived at the summit of this chain of the Andes, after a
56
*
truly arduous and constant ascent of seven hours and a half. The scene now before us was again stupendous ; mountains gradually lowering until they appeared to subside into a flat, — but probably deceptive* from the great distance. We were considerably above the clouds, which rolled on the summits of other eminences below us, and there was a very sensible chill in the atmosphere. We now descended for an hour and a half, on such a road that it was wonderful how the animals could keep their footing. We were much inter¬ ested on this side by the great variety of beautiful wild flowers and mountain shrubs that grow in the greatest profusion and luxu¬ riance — a complete study for a botanist — which science I never more regretted my ignorance of. Agua de Obispos, at the foot of the eminence, consists only of a few detached huts inhabited by agriculturists. We were received in one of them, with our retinue, with the accustomed hospitality. The change of climate here is surprising : the thermometer in the night fell to 60°; a difference of 36 degrees between this place and St. Carlos. The produce of the few patches of ground that are in culti¬ vation here, is wheat, peas, “ garbances,” &c. We had little expectation of meeting with provi¬ sion, but were unexpectedly provided with fowls.
57
milk, and coffee, added to some do ves that we had shot. The lodging was indifferent, but we are now pretty well accustomed to mud walls and earthen floors; and with — — ’s originality, and inexhaustible fund of entertainment, and
- ’s invariable good humour, such scenes are
very entertaining, inasmuch as they give one an insight into the domestic character of the natives.
March 13 th. We delayed our departure till a later hour than usual, to partake of “ La Be- bida de los Dioses,” coffee and new milk — finally proceeding at seven o’clock. The first part of the road was a steep ascent which occupied us an hour, after which we had a delightful ride along a ridge of high mountains, constantly, though gradually descending for three hours by an even road ; the scenery was of the grand¬ est description, although bearing bat few traces of cultivation; a deep valley on either side succeeded by numerous parallel ranges of greater or less elevation, the path way at times so narrow, that a false step would have precipi¬ tated one down an almost perpendicular steep of incalculable depth. All the way along this beautiful slope we met with the most delicate shrubs, and in particular a great variety of myr¬ tles of very luxuriant growth. About midway
58
the vale of Carache, running east and west, opened to our view ; it had a most picturesque effect in the midst of this gigantic Andean sce¬ nery, and reminded me of a model I had seen of the valley of Chamouny, backed by the lofty Alps, only wanting perpetual snow to make it a great resemblance, although probably from hence there is a much greater extent of moun¬ tains. The descent to the town occupied three hours ; on a nearer approach it has all the appearance of a camp, consisting of about one hundred detached houses built round a square ; a river runs through the vale, which is most favorably situated for culture, though at present much neglected in the vicinity of the town, which, having been occupied, at different times, by both contending armies, is reduced to the lowest state of misery ; no place that we have passed through has presented so truly desolate an appearance ; many of the houses are deserted, the inhabitants having sought shelter in the woods, in preference to being subject to military occupation either from friend or foe ; the former, being ill paid, are sometimes driven to commit exactions, in which, of course, the latter have not been behind them. In those huts that are still occupied, there is hardly an article of furniture, to many not even a door, and it was with infinite difficulty we procured provision of any kind ;
■
the Alcalde’s influence, (who by the by was not the most assiduous we met with) was not suf¬ ficient to procure us a fowl at any price. To conclude the list of wants, we were informed that there was not in the town wine enough for the Communion Service ! The church is equally bereft of its ornaments, as the houses of their little furniture and utensils.
March Uth. LeftCarache before day -light, following the road through the valley, which is probably three leagues in extent, but very narrow. The mountains on each side form part of the Cordillera, which is laid down in the map east of the lake Maracaibo, its di¬ rection being north and south. Shortly after leaving the village, the vale assumed a less desolate aspect, there appeared a succession of small haciendas of cane and maize, more re¬ markable for the freshness of their verdure, than their actual richness. The vale terminates in a high mountain which we had to ascend, pursuing the road to the Indian village of St. Anna; having crossed the ridge, we entered a tract of quite another description, which for identity must be called the vale of St. Anna, its direction is nearly parallel with that of Carache, probably four leagues in extent, and one in breadth, but its features totally op-
/
60
posed, excepting at its commencement where the soil also appears good. I do not think we have passed a spot more remarkable for its exuberance, and great natural fertility. From the summit of the two ranges of eminences which enclose this vale, descending in a gradual declivity, vegetation is abundantly prolific, and of a force that bespeaks a great depth and rich¬ ness of soil. The wood on each side is thick and umbrageous, in the bottom a small river runs the whole extent of the valley; in the lower ground the soil being pleasingly diver¬ sified by wood and lawn, the richness of the pasturage on these verdant and sloping banks is remarkable ; and if the hand of industry were but employed in the cultivation of so naturally prolific and picturesque a spot, it could not fail to be eminently successful. Some ground has been cleared, and is now cultivated, but its extent is trifling compared to that which is yet in a state of nature. We have not passed any spot that we have considered so favorable for a European settlement; for, in addition to the great advantages offered by the soil and situation, the climate is such as to suit a European con¬ stitution. Its present inhabitants consider it cold, and from its elevated situation it is com¬ paratively so with the plains, but what we
■MM
61
should consider a moderate temperature, the thermometer being at 70. In the neighbour¬ hood of the village the vine has been tried, and we were told it yielded an abundant produce. The soil and moderate heat is also well adapted for the coffee plant. Wheat is grown in consi¬ derable quantity, as well as potatoes, beans, &c. plantains and maize ; all other produce that thrives in a mild temperature would no doubt succeed. For cotton, indigo, and cocoa, it would not be warm enough, but the preceding articles will sufficiently recommend a situation which for natural beauty we have not seen exceeded. The site of the village is on an oblong emi¬ nence, at the further extremity of the vale ; the houses are small and of miserable aspect, and it was with difficulty we procured wherewith to make a meal. The inhabitants are without exception the comeliest looking people we have yet seen in the country, although the women are more or less afflicted with “ Goitres their complexion are of a lighter cast than what we have usually seen. There are not at present above fifteen or twenty families in the place. It was between eleven and twelve when we arrived here, leaving it again at three. The only curi¬ osity the place contains is the stone on which General Morillo alighted to meet Bolivar, to treat of the armistice concluded in November,
/
62
1820. We heard several anecdotes of both from a
poor but patriotic inhabitant of the village, whom we visited. I should not omit to remark, the pre¬ dilection which the population in general have for foreigners, and the attention that is generally paid to us, for it is a circumstance of some im¬ portance, and may tend to very beneficial results. As we advanced the western extremity, the vale appeared to have been more cultivat¬ ed, although much neglected at present. From hence the road, accompanied by the same inte¬ resting and fertile scenery, led us up a consider¬ able ascent, till we attained the summit of another eminence enveloped with clouds. As night approached, we quickened our pace, enabled so to do by the even pathway along the range, until we came up with our arriero, who had bivouacked on a grassy spot. Hence we had a most tedious and fatiguing descent of at least two hours, to an insignificant village, called “Mocoy,” which we had in view almost continually, and to all appearance close at hand, but such were the windings and zig-zag path¬ ways, that we were heartily tired on arriving*. It is placed at the foot of the mountain, consist¬ ing only of a few straggling huts, inhabited by goatherds. The poor animals, after a hard day’s journey of ten leagues, were doomed to pass the night in fasting, there being neither a blade of
63
grass or com in the place ; and the miserable hut wherein we were received not containing so much as a draught of water, at least we could obtain none ; and I have little doubt it is the policy of these poor Indians to say, “ No hay ” to every thing that is enquired for, as it cer¬ tainly is their practice, in consequence of the repeated passage of troops, who levy contribu¬ tions, and seldom think it necessary to pay for their entertainment. It was near eleven before the servants arrived with our hammocks.
1 5th March. Before starting in the morning we did, for ample payment, obtain a little fresh goat’s milk and coffee. Then pursued a southerly course along the valley, which, as we advanced, increased in richness and fer¬ tility. The first part was wild and romantic, and shut in by immense rocky fastnesses ; but the nearer we approached Panpanito the more the mountains receded, leaving a rich tract of partially cultivated and in part wooded land, with abundance of water. We passed several small haciendas of cocoa, plantations of cane and maize, in very good condition ; the natural productions being of the most prolific and verdant description. Arrived at Panpanito, a distance only of two leagues and a half, be¬ tween eight and nine, having passed an un-
usual number of detached cottages. This is the nearest point to Truxillo, and contains an advanced guard from thence, consisting of a troop of cavalry. We remarked the fine ath¬ letic appearance of the men was much at variance with their wretched accoutrements : the greater number were in a state of demi- nudity — none of them with either stockings or boots; the principal badge of their profession being a kind of helmet made from bullock's hide, with a strip of blacked sheep skin in lieu of a feather . We were sorry not to see the ancient city of Truxillo; a sacrifice we necessarily made in consequence of its being a couple of leagues out of our route. In this small place we were tolerably supplied with provisions, but found the heat very oppressive — the ther¬ mometer at 84°. Made preparations after an early dinner for a long march to Mendoza, dis¬ tant eight leagues, but our plan was frustrated. Leaving at three o’clock we had a delightful, al¬ though at first sultry ride, through the remainder of the vale, which expanded as we advanced. The road lay through verdant and shady lanes of the richest fertility, in one or two instances through haciendas of cocoa ; a great portion of the surrounding country being tolerably culti¬ vated, but not to half the extent of its capability. The great circumference of this fine valley is
hardly surpassed in beauty by those of Aragua, although much of it yet remains to be cleared and planted. The coup d'ceil of its full basin, from a wooded eminence at the further extre¬ mity, heightened by the warm tints of the evening sun, was rich almost beyond precedent. Having loitered away some time in the wood, in parrot shooting, we found it too late to carry our first intention into effect, therefore stopped for the night at a Pulperia on “ Savanna Larga” • — a plain of considerable extent, situated on the summit of a mountain, where we found good pasturage and an accommodating Pulpero , who prepared us an excellent dish made from the “yuea,” the plant from which arrow-root and cas¬ sava are made. Excepting the arracacha, it is the best of many good roots that I have tasted in America, and must be very nutritious. We found the temperature mild and agreeable.
* /
16 th March . Leaving at six o’clock, we de-
v
scended from the Savannah by a winding road
to the river Motatan, which we had some diffi-
/
culty in passing, from the narrowness and insta hility of the wooden bridge, which the cautious mules had a particular aversion to. On the opposite bank we passed some beautiful trees, of extraordinary growth and symmetrical form. The country continued to be highly interesting,
66
interspersed with fine estates, and others that have been totally neglected, but bearing the trace of former richness ; especially a cocoa hacienda in the vicinity of Valera. It is exten¬ sive, and used to produce three hundred mule loads a year. The above village is remarkable only as the nearest point to Maracaibo that we shall pass ; being situated between that town and Truxillo, and not more than ten leagues distant from the lake — an immense inland sea, which measures one hundred and fifty miles from north to south, its greatest width being ninety, and circumference four hundred and fifty. The eastern coast is spoken of as being very arid, not susceptible of cultivation, and extremely unhealthy; and on the west the land only begins to be fruitful twenty leagues south of the city of Maracaibo. The southern extre¬ mity of the lake, on the contrary, is equal in richness to any portion of South America. The city built on the west bank, is seventeen or eighteen miles from the sea. It stands upon a sandy soil, devoid of vegetation. Its temperature is excessively hot, aggravated by the scarcity of rain. In July and August the heat is excessive. In this tropical country, from March to October is considered summer ;
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but the seasons are not divided, as with us,
mm
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into four parts. You only hear of summer and winter; nor is it cold or heat that forms the distinction, but the wet and dry periods ; which, as they are very variable, subject one, not to four, but to twenty different seasons in the year. In Maracaibo the atmosphere is so impregnated with heat, that you appear to breathe the air of a furnace. The inhabi¬ tants counteract its effects by frequent bathing in the lake, which is considered healthy. Not¬ withstanding all this, a residence there is far from pernicious after a person becomes “ ac¬ climate no endemic disorders being known, and you are much less subject to disease than in many places where the heat is less, and the means of refreshment more numerous.
We continued our route to Mendoza. The sun was exceedingly powerful, and the beasts much tired. On approaching it the scenery became less interesting ; the mountains narrowing until we were shut in by two sterile ranges. It being
Sunday, the inhabitants were all at mass, and it was twelve o’clock before we were in the way of getting a breakfast. At length the retinue arrived, and with the remains of a fowl, a little bread, and three eggs, all we could pro¬ cure in this miserable hole, we made a meal.
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agreeable.
68
This is another poor Indian village : the chief produce of the neighbourhood is wheat. For¬ tunately the alcalde heard of our arrival, and came to invite us to take up our quarters at his house, a short distance from Mendoza , where we should meet with better accommo¬ dation ; an offer we gladly availed ourselves of, and experienced from him and his wife every civility and attention his means were capable of affording. The temperature here was very
\lth March . Having a cordillera to pass in the course of the day, we left Mendoza be¬ tween six and seven ; at a distance of two leagues we commenced the ascent, which oc¬ cupied us a couple of hours, the road being tolerably good. There was a considerable ex¬ tent of the same grand and mountainous forest scenery which we enjoyed on the journey to Agua de Obispos , pervaded by the same solemn silence, — a remarkable feature in the forests we have passed, where you scarcely hear a sound but that of your own voice and the rushing of waters.* I am at a loss to describe
* Humboldt says of the American woods, “ It is scarcely to be distinguished what most excites your admi¬ ration ; — the deep silence of those solitudes — the individual beauty and contrast of form — or that vigour and freshness
—
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the magnificence of the scene from this lofty summit; for mountain grandeur we have scarcely seen it equalled. Beneath us, at an immense depth, lay the verdant vale of Timotes, through which we could trace for leagues a serpentine river ; — rising above this, a range of hills of moderate dimensions, but of almost per¬ pendicular acclivity; the summits are exten¬ sive table lands, cultivated in parts, with the village La Mesa, (so named from the formation of the eminence,) at the eastern extremity; hence a second chain, of immense height, rose abruptly from the “Mesa;’ mostly co¬ vered with forest, but terminating above the clouds, which appeared to rest midway, - in rocky and craggy summits of various forms. It occupied nearly double the time to descend into the vale, and it was two o’clock ere we reached Timotes. We had pretty sharp appetites, having only breakfasted with a crust and a cup of coffee at the hospitable alcalde’s. We were here at the foot of the Paramo, with the clouds just hovering over our heads: the atmosphere was damp and chilly, the max¬ imum of heat being 63°. W^e were present at
of vegetable life which characterize the climate of the tropics. It might be said, that the earth, overloaded with plants, does not allow them space enough to unfold them¬ selves. "
a religious procession of San Felipe, (who is, I believe, the patron saint of the Indians,) exceeding in burlesque any thing I have before seen ; but which excited at the same time, a sensation of pity, that this mild and tractable people should have been subjected to so idol¬ atrous and disgusting a system, and of indigna¬ tion that their former government should have contrived thus to humiliate a race of human beings to so degrading and revolting a con¬ dition. It is to be hoped a more enlightened policy will sweep away such gross abuses.
\§th March. The object of this day’s journey was to cross the “ Paramo ” — a name given to the highest mountain in a Cordillera. We started soon after day-light, commencing a regular and continued ascent.' The road was much better than any we had passed in the mountain districts. The difference in the temperature gradually manifested itself until we were glad to have recourse to our cloaks. With the change of climate, the country also assumed a different aspect ; the more we advanced, the greater the barrenness of the soil, until passing Chachopo, a straggling village in a bleak part of the mountains, all useful vegetation ceased — - the only covering to the stony mountains being a kind of moss, and a plant somewhat resembling
71
the aloe, but of a more woolly appearance. Wc continued ascending, the rarity of the atmos¬ phere encreasing, until we reached the summit of the Paramo at ten o’clock. Here we found a surprising fall in the thermometer, which was down at 42£°— a transition that we of course felt very sensibly. The morning was extremely favorable for crossing, being perfectly clear; at other times it is often dangerous, and in stormy weather impracticable, to effect the pas¬ sage. The view from the height comprised only a mass of barren and rugged mountains, more wild than interesting. I much regret not having a barometer, by which these respective elevations might have been accurately ascertain¬ ed Hence we descended by a gradual slope, an tolerably good road for four hours successively the scenery possessing no novelty, unless indeed the abundant sources of various rivers, which take their rise in these, mountains ; and it is interesting to watch the encreasing velocity of their currents as they proceed, receiving rein¬ forcements from every ravine. Arrived at Mucuchies at two o’clock-the temperature was agreeable, about 66°; but the country equally uninteresting, not a tree to be seen. A considerable quantity of corn is grown here ; and as we approached the town, we observed upon the mountains a great many horses and oxen.
72
The town and its neighbourhood formerly con¬ tained 3000 inhabitants, but the number is very sensibly diminished, from three causes, the war, emigration, and small-pox ; the place itself is, however, so evident an improvement on the villages we have lately passed, that I begin to hope we have seen the worst. Took up our quarters at the Pulperia , where we found very tolerable “ accommodation for man and beast.” The church, although quite in humble style, is one of the neatest, and best constructed that we have seen.
f
19^ March. If we found the climate here agreeable in the middle of the day, we have had reason to think less favorably of it during the night, the cold being very sharp. On rising, the glass was as low as 46° — a change of twenty degrees in a few hours ! From hence we gra¬ dually descended, until we were again in summer heat; these transitions are surprisingly great in so short a space of time. By degrees the country became more fertile, and as we gra¬ dually descended by a stony road from Mucu- chies, had an opportunity of tracing from its source the river Chama, which receives a num¬ ber of mountain streams, and rolls over its rocky bed with great velocity as it approaches the small village of Mucucubar. Here we
73
observed for the first time, the craggy summits of distant mountains, bearing S. W. covered with perpetual snow ; the scenery increase amazingly in richness and grandeur on nearing Merida. The high chain of mountains on the left were finely wooded — the vale partially cu - tivated— and the road crossing verdant lawns intersected by rivulets with the Chama increasing in impetuosity and size from numerous streams that it receives. Between twelve and one we commenced an abrupt ascent to crown this morning’s ride, exceedingly fatiguing to t e animals from its steepness. When on the sum¬ mit, we found ourselves in the delightful city o Merida, from whence I propose to forward this
letter.
74
ROSARIO DE CUCUTA, 1st April, 1023.
22nd March . Having recruited at Merida three days, and it now being' the eve of our departure, I must give you some account of so charming a spot, and its neighbourhood. It is considered by travellers to be about half way between Caracas and Bogota; but I believe there is no accurate computation of the distance. “ The city was founded as long since as 1558, under the name of St. Jago de los Caralleros, and is situated on a table land of three leagues in length, and one broad,” surrounded by the rivers Macujun, which has its source to the north, in “los Paramos de los Conejos,” — the Albarregas, and the Chama, which empties itself into the Lake of Maracaibo ; here are united with extraordinary felicity the greatest gifts of nature, soil, climate and situation ; the first is of that peculiar quality as to be equally adapted to all the productions of a tropical climate, as well as those of northern latitudes, and in its present imperfect state of cultivation, it yields within view of the city, cocoa, coffee and cotton, indigenous to a warm climate; plantains, maize, all kinds of roots, such as arracaeha, yuca, vegetables, and the best of fruits in high perfection; which
75
require considerable heat; moreover wheat, bar¬ ley, peas, potatoes, &c. are equally abundant, although thriving in a comparatively cool atmosphere.
The primary cause of these heterogeneous productions, so different in their nature, is the climate varying according to the position of the land, from an excess of heat, to the greatest intensity of cold. In the vale of the Chama for instance, running at the foot of the table land, the heat is probably between 80 and 90° and at the summit of the mountains, (15,000 feet above the level of the sea,) which form its boundary, and immediately fronting the town, you have perpetual snow. Its site is most striking and singularly beautiful; ascending from the valley by a very steep and narrow pass, you gain the summit of an extensive table land, tending in a slight degree towards an inclined plane as it runs westward. The city commences at the eastern extremity, covering at least a square half league. On the north, south, and east, the sides of the mountain are perpendicular, and to the west, as I have before observed, gradually sloping in an extensive “ plateau ” At the bottom of each precipice are the three above named rivers, and beyond in each direction, rise a chain of lofty mountains
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of more or less fertility. Those to the south, which are the highest, covered with large forest trees, and above their dark green appear the rocky summits enveloped in perpetual snow. I can give you but a faint outline of this most picturesque and delightful spot ! the city being m the middle region, enjoys a temperature extraordinarily moderate and agreeable ; the heat never being oppressive, and cold scarcely sensible, the average is from 67 to 70°. Next to Caracas, this is by far the largest town in the province of Venezuela, and like it, two thirds at least is a heap of ruins from the same melancholy cause; (its population, in 1804, amounted to near 12,000 persons, whereas at present, 3,000 is probably the extent.) The prodigious velocity of the shock which laid both cities in ruins is inconceivable; the dis¬ tance is nearly 500 miles, and yet the convulsion was simultaneous ! Merida in proportion to its size, has suffered more than Caracas, for with the exception of two streets, at least a mile in length, it presents an unvaried picture of ruin and desolation. Merida is the capital of a de¬ partment, the see of a bishop, and a muni¬ cipality. Before the calamity of 1812, it pos¬ sessed five convents, and three parish churches ; at present one only of the former remains, that of St. Domingo, which, since the abo-
77
lition of religious orders by the decree of congress, is converted into the cathedral. Here is a convent of nuns, twenty-three in number, of the order of St. Clara, still existing, an hos¬ pital, and public college, in which sixty stu¬ dents are instructed in Spanish, Latin, Na¬ tural Philosophy, and Theology. In like man¬ ner to Caracas, the streets intersect each other at right angles, each having in the centre a clear stream of running water. I assure you I do not exaggerate in setting this forth as the most delightful spot the imagination can paint. What might not be made of it, if peopled by European families of enlightened ideas, and with sufficient capital to rebuild and beautify the city as its situation deserves ? With any society it might be made a delightful residence ; there is a great deal of land on the “ Mesa,” in its immediate vicinity, which could be con¬ verted into gardens and pleasure grounds, capable of producing the finest fruits. The surrounding country offers abundance of pro¬ ductive soil for those disposed to agriculture. The intrinsic value of lands is of course influenced by their site and irrigation, as well as their proximity to principal towns and sea ports \ and in all these points the neighbourhood of this town is abundantly favored. There could not be a spot better
78
adapted for the capital of the province, for which it enjoys the following advantages ; — placed in a centrical position, it would be an entrepot for the commerce of the Llanos , the most fertile part of the interior, whence their produce might be conveyed for exportation to the lake of Maracaibo, distant only four or five days journey, and which, by an improvement of roads, might be reduced to two or three. The river Chama, already become a considerable body of water, might, I conceive, although at considerable expense and labour, owing to the velocity of the current, be made navigable; in which case it would by its communication with the lake, give to the town almost the advantages of a maritime situation. The abun¬ dance of mountain rivers, and streams would give great facilities for manufactories, mills, and machinery in general. We understood that land might be purchased here at very low rates from individuals, to whom it principally belongs, and in whose hands it is entirely neglected ; its natural advantages are too many to allow of its long continuing uncultivated. - , being ac¬
quainted with the Gov. Col. Peredes, he quar¬ tered us in the best house in the town ; one that has been lately built by a Senor Lobo, the most complete and certainly the cleanest I have seen in the country ; it is well adapted for the heat.
/
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with a corridor round the inner court, large airy rooms, &c. We experienced great civility from our host during our stay here, and have fared excellently well, to make up for short commons en route . Provisions of all kinds are plentiful ; wine only is not to be procured, in consequence of the communication with Ma¬ racaibo being stopped. Our relay of mules we have agreed for with Senor Lobo. We proceed on our march to-morrow morning, and the impressions which Merida (from what it might be, more than what it actually is) has made upon us, will, I venture to say, be as lasting as they are pleasing !
23 rd March . At an early hour we com¬
menced the third division of our long journey, proceeding westward along the Plateau, at least two leagues in extent. The soil is of the richest description, but little cultivated ; not so the extended valley beyond the river, which runs north of the Mesa ; for from its banks to the foot of the mountains, which close the view on that side, is one of the finest tracts of land I ever be¬ held ; more cultivated, (although not made the most of,) than any space of similar extent that we have passed for a long time, and forming scenery of the most picturesque and beautiful description ; in one or two places the vale
winding round projecting bases of the moun tains, branches off to the right in gentle rises, and terminates in a distant perspective. Some quantity of rain had fallen early in the morning, which had brought out the rich colours of the sugar-cane, plantain, and a variety of foliage in the valley. In the distance were visible the rugged summits, enveloped in eternal snows, with fleecy clouds hanging about the midway forests. An artist of the most happy imagina¬ tion could never have composed so beautiful a picture — not even Claude, who “ emends the faults of nature.” Descending from the table land, by a short but steep and stony road, we entered the vale of Exjido, having crossed two rivers, the “ Alvaregas” and “ Montauban,” we arrived at the village, which is about two leagues and a half from Merida. This rich flat is pro¬ bably a league in extent, surpassing the preced¬ ing in the uniformity of its cultivation ; indeed, no where have we seen so great an extent of land more fully employed, and in no place has it pro¬ duced so admirable and picturesque an effect. As we ascended the mountains we cast many a parting glance at this lovely scene. The rest of the road to St. Juan lay through moun¬ tainous passes ; the acacia, is in great abundance here, together with wild jasmine, and other beautiful mountain flowers, spreading a delicious
_
81
fragrance. We passed a fine hacienda of coffee and cocoa about midway ; crossed two or three rapid rivers, and arrived, after a fatiguing ascent, on a rough and rocky road, at the plain, on which is situated St. Juan.
We took up our quarters with the com¬ mandant, Senor Pina, whose hospitality - -
had before experienced, and found him not only a good host, but a sensible and well informed man. He employs a portion of the inhabitants in cultivating a small hacienda (farm,) and go¬ verns the whole in so mild a manner, that at his slightest summons they assemble, even for the purpose of conscription ; at the very idea of which, in other villages, the inhabitants fre¬ quently quit their homes, and retire to the mountains.
The greater part, I may almost say the whole of the persons we have yet met upon our journey, have declared their utter de¬ testation of the yoke under which they have so long groaned, and which they have now so glo¬ riously cast off. The grinding oppression which the Spaniards exercised over this then ill-fated country, was inconceivable. The inhabitants were not allowed to cultivate either the vine, the olive, or the mulberry. These restrictions were
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enforced merely to insure to the mother country (as she was then termed,) a market for three of her staple commodities — wine, oil, and silk ; and the natives of Colombia were prevented exercising their industry in three branches of trade to which their soil and climate were pe¬ culiarly applicable — they will now be able to resume them, but it will require much time, and the aid of European activity and capital before they can be carried to any extent. It is the con¬ viction of all the reasonable and reflecting peo¬ ple, with whom we have conversed, that the best policy the government can adopt, is to encourage, as much as possible, the introduction of European industry, mechanics, and popula¬ tion. This is the only course by which the coun¬ try can possibly be relieved from the extreme of poverty, and wretchedness, by which it is now completely overwhelmed ; but it is, nevertheless, surprising, to hear these sentiments expressed by a people who have been tutored by their op¬ pressors in an absolute abhorrence of all fo¬ reigners, and of the innovations upon the old and corrupt system, which they would naturally introduce ; which by enlightening the people, would have accelerated the term of their eman¬ cipation; and it is no less singular, that a population, which in general conforms so scru¬ pulously to the Catholic rites, should not only
83
look favourably upon those of a different reli¬ gion, but receive them as the regenerators of their country.
There was formerly a convent here, the building is now in ruins, and the nuns dis¬ persed, in consequence of a difference in poli¬ tics. With the revolution, party feelings were introduced into the sanctuary, which ended in the abolition of their order : the Godas are gone to Maracaibo ; those at Merida being the patriotic portion of the sisterhood.
I should not omit to mention a small lake in
%
the neighbourhood of St. Juan, possessing singularly useful qualities, as it may be con¬ sidered one of the greatest natural curiosities in the country. In its bed is deposited a kind of salt of a rocky consistency, called Urado, which, when mixed with Chimon, an extract from tobacco, possesses very valuable pro¬ perties, and is much used by the natives. It is also essentially serviceable in fattening cattle, and is used for a variety of other pur¬ poses. The Indians obtain it in small portions at a time, by diving to the bottom of the Lake, which is four or five fathoms deep, and detaching it from the bed ; in this dangerous service many have perished, and it is only surprising that for
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so trifling a recompense (the utmost they can gain being a few rials per day) they subject themselves to the risk. The Ur ado is not known to exist in any other part of the Repub¬ lic, and it is matter of regret that so valuable an article should at present be totally neglected,
24 th March. Departed from St. Juan early in the morning, having before us one of the most difficult and dangerous passes in this part of America. On leaving the village the country assumed a neglected and generally sterile ap¬ pearance; descending gradually for about a league we arrived at a double chain of moun¬ tains, between which, at considerable depth, the river Chama rushed along its rocky bed, its violence augmenting every instant from the numerous streams it receives from the moun¬ tains. We alternately ascended and descended by difficult passes cut in the side of the moun¬ tains, and followed the road which runs from North to South in this romantic defile. The further we proceeded, the more grand the scenery became — rocky mountains on either side, encreasing in height, and wildness of aspect* — the narrow pathway cut in the almost perpendicular sides of the mountains, and barely wide enough for the passage of the animals. We arrived at length on an ele-
85
vated promontory, at the bottom of which another rapid river joins the Chama. The road winding down the steep side of the rock, is justly considered a difficult and dangerous pass, so narrow is it, that the smallest deviation would precipitate the mule and rider down a perpendicular height of some hundred feet into the Chama, which rolls at the bottom. On the other hand, the rocky mountain rises with equal precipitancy, so that you have no resource but the narrow pathway winding down in sharp angles, which barely admit of the animals turning. In this defile we passed two cu¬ rious bridges, thrown across the Chama for the convenience of travellers, between Merida and Maracaibo; they consist simply of long strips of hide, fastened on either side to poles fixed in the earth ; on the surface of these is placed a square piece of hide, on which the traveller seats himself, and with the assistance of a cord, to which it is fastened, pulls himself across : the river, although not deep, runs with such violence that it would be impossible to ford it. The animals were much fatigued when we reached Estanques, a distance of only five
leagues.
This is the name of a cocoa and coffee plan¬ tation of considerable extent, belonging to some
86
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families who reside in Bogota ; it is under the superintendance of a Major domo, who has 150 slaves under his command. Being yet early, and as we proposed remaining here for the night, we passed an hour in the hacienda in shooting, where we found a variety of birds of beautiful plumage.
On these estates the cocoa tree is planted in lines, at intervals of from twelve to fourteen feet; and as it requires protection from the sun’s rays, rows of plantain and EEry trine (of very rapid growth and very umbrageous) are planted in alternate lines at the same time — the latter shelters it after the second year, and the former protects it the first, at the same time yielding its own fruit; the plant usually yields two crops, the one in July, the other in December, which in the gathering and drying require particular care. The nut is extracted from the pod, and placed either on leaves or cane-work to dry, great caution being taken that no moisture is com¬ municated ; the process is repeated for a con¬ siderable time, after which it is housed, especial care being taken that none of the pod, or the unripe nut be mixed with it. The plant seldom yields fruit before the fifth year, in some places not till the sixth or seventh; but after once bearing, if properly managed.
will continue to fructify from thirty to fifty years.
The cocoa of Caracas, which 1 believe is understood to be that of all Venezuela, is esteeemed, with one exception only, that of Soconusco, the best that grows. It requires a situation sheltered from the north, to be near a river by which it may be irrigated in dry weather, and drained in the rainy season.
The coffee-plant is comparatively of recent cultivation ; it was not introduced into Vene¬ zuela till 1784, since when it has been an ob¬ ject of great attention ; it is less capricious as to soil than cocoa, and a much hardier plant, it yields a crop the second or third year, and the tree, which is allowed to grow to four or five feet, will last forty years ; like the cocoa, it requires shelter from excessive heat the plantain, in some districts, is considered suffi¬ cient — in others, L’Erytrine, is used, which is planted alternately with the coffee ; plenty of moisture is also requisite. When the berry is ripe, it is shaken off the tree on to cloths which are spread for the purpose, and afterwards ex¬ posed to the sun for two or three weeks, to be well dried.
i
The agriculturist, in this country, has an ex¬ cellent method of availing himself of the ser¬ vices of his slaves, almost free of any expense. Each man, or family, receives a certain portion of land, called a Conuco , which he cultivates for his own support; for this purpose he is left at liberty a day in each week. A taste for husbandry is hereby acquired, which in the end is beneficial to the estate; five days are devoted to the hacienda, and on Sunday they are again free. After hearing mass, in which they are very punctilious, the rest of the day is devoted to dancing, a recreation which the
blacks are passionately fond of.
•\ - . * *
Amongst the most liberal laws adopted by the first national congress, is that of abolishing slavery after the present generation. A fund is also established for the purpose of annually redeeming a certain number from bondage, so that in a few years the unnatural distinction will no longer exist. From the period of passing the decree, the children of slaves are declared free, but bound to indemnify the master, who has been at the expense of clothing and feeding them, either by a certain number of years of per¬ sonal servitude, or an equivalent to the expense incurred.
We were seated at dinner on the balcony which surrounds the house, when all the children belonging to the estate, to the number of about sixty — the boys in one line, the girls in another — descending by a winding-path from the village, approached the church, sing¬ ing in very good time an hymn, or evening prayer ; when, in front of the house, they all knelt down in the same order, and lifting up their hands prayed aloud. All religious cere¬ monies are impressive ; and in the present in¬ stance that feeling was greatly enhanced by the situation — as it were in the midst of the wilder-
r
ness. Taken by surprise, the effect of so many young creatures addressing their Creator in the same words and tone, joined with the consi¬ deration, of how inestimable a blessing the in¬ troduction of Christianity, although so disfi¬ gured, is amongst a race of beings but lately barbarians, made it the most impressive sight I recollect to have witnessed.
Towards evening it began to rain, and con¬ tinued with considerable violence the whole of the night. We did not fail to hear it, being kept awake by myriads of mosquitos, and a small fly, called Ejen, equally persecuting, although more diminutive than a flea ; we were
frightful figures in the morning from their joint efforts.
Mr. - , who has occasionally fallen in with
us since we left Valencia, arrived here this morn¬ ing in a heavy shower. A day or two since he lost a valuable horse, from the sting of a very diminutive serpent, the poison of which was so very subtle that the animal died within an hour; they are called by the natives Aranas; and it is only when immediate precautions are taken after the bite, that the animal is ever saved ; it is even then a matter of much uncertainty. One of our best mules was stung in the foot, but re¬ medies being instantly applied, we have hopes of her recovery ; falling in with these reptiles, is not the least of our apprehensions. This particular species, however, only attack the brute creation.
About noon, there being a temporary gleam of sunshine, we thought it well to proceed. We commenced our route by entering a wood, and forded a small river, which intersects the road in a serpentine form at least a dozen times. As we advanced, the forest thickened, and trees presented themselves of a size and luxuriant growth, such as we had not before seen. One
of the peculiarities of trees in this hemisphere is, that they run up to an amazing height, in a per¬ fectly straight line, before they begin to branch out, and from the boughs, various shoots, equally perpendicular, descend and take root. We had not advanced very far when the rain came down in torrents, obliging us for the first time to have recourse to our cloaks. At the distance of two leagues we came up with our baggage animals ; many of them having got loose in the forest, the morning had been lost in recovering them ; the arriero therefore proposed stopping the rest of the day at a cottage in the wood, and we thought it expedient to do the same. The inhabitants of the next village being equally famed for horse¬ stealing, and anti-republican principles.
Vijagual, the name of this Chaumiere In - dienne , is the most romantic spot imaginable; situated on a gentle rise, it commands a view of the mountainous forest that encompasses it on all sides ; for the most part impervious to man, and the sole residence of animals hostile to his nature. The gloomy silence that uniformly per¬ vades American forests is here broken by the impetuous course of the river Macuti, which flows through it, now much swollen by the rains. In this wilderness we again found a family pos¬ sessing the same hospitable attributes, and
92
alacrity to supply the wants of travellers, who they have been taught to look upon with mis¬ trust, if not with horror. We moreover met with good provision, and plenty of cane for the mules. The mother had by no means the man¬ ners of a person who had passed the greater part of her life, as was the case, in such a solitude ; she had four as fine children as I have seen in the country, which with two or three servants, completed the circle.
26^ March. At day light pursued our route through the forest, which, with the exception of one or two openings, presenting the grandest pictures of wood and mountain scenery, occu¬ pied the greater part of the tract from hence to the Parochia of Bayladores, and consequently is not less than six leagues in extent ; the river was our constant companion, watering a soil of uncommon natural fertility ; the road tolerably level and good; a number of detached houses form the Parochia of Bayladores. For the first time we saw the tobacco plant in cul¬ tivation, a considerable quantity being* grown in this neighbourhood ; it is a source of great profit to the government, who have in the village of Bayladores an establishment for the manufacture of segars and snuff. The In¬ dividuals who grow the plant are obliged to
93
sell it to the government at a certain price. After undergoing the various preparations, it is retailed to the public at an advance of four or five rials a pound ; this monopoly is however to be done away with as soon as circumstances will permit.
“Tobacco since the year 1777 has been the “ exclusive property of the state. The valleys “ of Aragoa, Orituco, /Varinas, La Grita, and “ Bayladores, are the spots where it is most “ cultivated. It requires a rich and moist soil,
“ and great care in keeping the plant free from “ weeds ; it grows generally to the height of “ three feet; and as the leaves ripen, they are “ separately taken off when the sun is at the “ meridian, to avoid the least degree of moisture “ which would otherwise injure it. This tobacco “ is principally made into segars, before which “ a juice is extracted, called Chimon, which is “ used by the inhabitants in large quantities.”
There appeared to be nothing remarkable in the town which we merely passed through ; it has been much destroyed by the Spanish troops, a division of which, commanded by La Torre, was quartered here eleven months. Strange to say, the village and neighbourhood still have the reputation of being attached to the
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Spanish interest ! Another league brought us to La Cevada, so called from the quantity of barley that is grown there ; the situation is extremely pretty, and the land very fertile, and tolerably cultivated; two ridges of wooded mountain enclose an extensive vale running east and west, the greater part of which is sown with grain, but still leaving patches of rich pasturage: several detached farm houses of neat appearance add to the picturesque effect of the scenery. It was our wish to stop at one of these houses, the animals being very tired, but in none could we find an inhabitant ; we were therefore compelled to proceed to the extremity of the vale called La Playta, where by the greatest chance, we discovered a farm house in a retired spot, the owner proving to be the person to whom we were recommended by the family at Vijaguel. While our willing host was employed in preparing our dinner, we spent an hour or two in dove and pigeon shooting, having observed large flocks of each in the corn fields of La Cevada. The harvest had lately been got in, which I believe seldom fails of being abundant without any artificial pre¬ paration ; the soil is naturally so rich, that it yields a crop every year. Their mode of agriculture is of the simplest nature: after gathering the grain, which they cut off near
%
the ear, the straw is burnt on the land; a wedge of iron fixed to a rough block of wood forms the plough wherewith to turn the soil, for which purpose, oxen are used of a remark¬ ably fine breed ; the process of sowing follows, which in two or three months is succeeded by an abundant crop ; the grain is then placed in an area, prepared for the purpose, and trodden out of the husk by horses and mules, who are driven round it for that purpose.
Towards evening we found it very cold, perhaps in consequence of being previously heated with shooting; nevertheless the glass was at one time as low as 55 degrees. In spite of our precaution in not sleeping at Bayladores, we had a mule stolen during the night ; I have little doubt that the depredators were part of a body of troops who passed late in the evening towards Bayladores, and who must have seen our stud feeding in the savan¬ na below.
21th March. Were detained here till nine in the morning, making search, and writing to the authorities on the road, to apprize them of the theft : at that hour we got off, and com¬ menced the ascent of a small P avamo , called Portachuelo . The natives regard these spots.
96
where on the summit it is generally very cold, with a respect almost amounting to awe. We met a party descending so muffled up, that their eyes and noses were the only parts exposed to the atmosphere ; they expressed surprise at our not being additionally clothed ; but to us the temperature was most agreeable, being at 60°. The descent was extremely tedious and fatigue- ing, by a winding road through a continuation of forest nearly the whole way. We reached La Grita, a distance of only five leagues, by two o clock, where we took up our residence with the Curate. This town, which is rather con¬ siderable, is prettily situated on an eminence, commanding a view of a large portion of culti¬ vated land, the whole hemmed in by high mountains. The population is by no means proportioned to its size, many of the houses being deserted ; but as it was a “ Dia de Pro¬ cession,” there was a considerable influx from the neighbourhood. The women are mostly tall, and with a few exceptions very plain, and much disfigured with Goitres , a disease which pre¬ vails .to a great extent in this line of moun¬ tainous country. We met with very indifferent accommodation, owing to the late advance of Morales, which had impoverished the town. The Port of Maracaibo, the key to this part of the country being also in his possession, all
97
intercourse with it is at a stand still. The detachment with which he made that extra¬ ordinary incursion, did not go beyond La Grita; indeed it is unaccountable how he was allowed to proceed thus far, when he might have been opposed by very superior forces.
28 th March. At day-light we continued our march through a fertile, but little cultivated country, with finely wooded mountains, and several small rivers. The road was comparatively good and level for the first five leagues, which brought us to a very picturesque spot, called El Cobre , from the copper mines in its neigh¬ bourhood. There is a small house in the valley destined for the reception of couriers, who con¬ vey letters from one part of the country to ano¬ ther, where we obtained excellent bread and water, at times a very acceptable repast ! The facilities given to correspondence from one part of Europe to another, are quite unknown in this country. Public dispatches, official and private letters, are all conveyed by men who travel on foot, and are relieved at every village; and although they walk day and night, the commu¬ nications are necessarily tardy, being forty days between Caracas and Bogota; their bags seldom appeared very burthensome.
H
98
We had now to pass a Paramo , called El Zum-
bador , or Hummer. - - , in his former
passage, says of it :
“We commenced the ascent of the Paramo , “ justly called El Zumbador, from the incessant “ violence of the wind upon its summit. The “ ascent occupied us several hours, and is in “ some places rendered extremely dangerous “ by the narrowness of the road and strength “ of the wind, which frequently threatens to “ hurl both mule and rider into the abyss below. “We suffered most sensibly from the cold, and “ more from the wind, which was almost irre- “ sistible, and would often drive the mules “ sideways several paces.”
The approach to it was extremely grand from the increasing size and magnificence of the mountains, but as they were perfectly free from clouds, and the sun shone with great bright¬ ness, we did not suffer at all from the rarity of the atmosphere, or the usually boisterous wind. On its summit, which we gained at one o’clock, the thermometer was only at 60. Indeed, I felt disappointed at so easy a passage, having pre¬ pared for the usual difficulties. The view from
99
hence was truly grand, comprehending an im¬ mense tract of country, and terminating in a sierrania, or chain of mountains, which to all appearance were the highest from the level of the plain of any we had seen, not excepting the Silla of Caracas : their course laying from $. W. to N. E., and like, in the Silla, the mountain in the centre being the highest. After a long- descent by a stony and difficult road, we reached a solitary house, called Los Caneis , where we had intended stopping for the night, but found it previously occupied by a party of troops, who, in charge of a commissary, were conducting money and stores to La Grita : the latter was much disposed to be quarrelsome, and as suffi¬ cient time had not elapsed to obliterate the recol¬ lection of our loss at La Playta, we thought it expedient not to expose ourselves to a similar misfortune, and we proceeded a league and a half farther, in perfect darkness, upon a most ruoged road ; we arrived at another lone hut ten
o O 1
leagues from whence we started in the morning. The poor people were in bed, and not a little alarmed at hearing so many voices ; but no sooner were they apprised that we were Ingleses, than the door was opened, and we received a hearty welcome ; here we had barely room to sling
h 2
100
our hammocks, in a room where there was a man ill of a fever ; nevertheless, after the fatigues of the day, we slept soundly. Savannah Larga, the name of the place, is prettily situated in the mountain. A small conuco, attached to the cot¬ tage, furnished the family with an ample stock of coffee, maize, plantains, and potatoes ; here with the least industry, the poorest may live in comparative plenty.
♦
29 th March . At half past six we continued our journey through a very interesting, fertile, and well cultivated country. The valley, which widened as we approached the village ofTariva, is well watered by the river Tormes, and is ex¬ tremely picturesque. The situation and advan¬ tages of this district appeared to me such as would recommend it to colonists, as there are large portions of fine land in want of cultiva¬ tors. The valley is bounded by the same Cor¬ dillera we observed from the Paramo , its lofty summits re-appearing above the clouds. We stopped at a house at the entrance of the village,
the owners of which had formerly received -
with much hospitality, and we experienced from them the same treatment.
101
At five p. m. we left Tariva, having waited the arrival of our baggage and spare mules, those we had ridden in the morning being per¬ fectly fagged. The road runs north of the village, and when we had attained the summit of the eminence which commands the whole extent of vale, the sun was just setting, throwing on this lovely landscape a variety of tints that greatly enhanced its already grand and inte¬ resting effect. We advanced in obscurity for two hours, and at eight we reached the village of Capachio, distant three leagues. Eighteen months ago a public school on the Lancasterian plan had been successfully established here, by a priest named Mora, for the education of the youth of the village, many of whom had made considerable progress in reading and writing. We learnt with much regret that this most
O
useful establishment had, for some reason, been broken up. The first and most important object in this country should be the education of the rising generation ; that alone can eradi¬ cate the apathy and laziness of the present inhabitants, who moreover labour under the disadvantages common to all Catholic countries. To carry into effect a plan for general education, which might be done gra¬ dually, and at a comparatively small expence ;
^ — -
MMMW
and at the same time, with the concurrence of government, to distribute translations in Spa¬ nish of the Bible, and a few other useful works, would be one of the greatest benefits that could be bestowed on this tractable, but priest-ridden people, and worthy the magnanimous efforts that have already been made, by some persons in England, for the good of Colombia.
i .
30 th March. As soon as the moon rose we continued our journey. On our way we passed the village of San Antonio de Cucuta, at three in the morning, and a little beyond crossed the Tachina, a river that divides the immense pro¬ vince of Venezuela, of which we have now tra¬ versed six hundred miles and upwards, from the kingdom of New Grenada. Heartily glad were we at four o’clock to take possession of an empty house in Rosario de Cucuta, having completed a fatiguing journey of twelve leagues in the last twenty-four hours ; our hammocks were soon slung, and overcome with fatigue we slept soundly till noon. This brings me to the close of another division of our journey; and I assure you. the prospect of a day or two’s rest is most comfortable.
103
I shall conclude this letter with a comparative view of the population of this province in 1 804, accompanied by an extract of a letter, lately addressed by Baron Humboldt to the Liberator Bolivar, on the estimated population of the whole of America in the year 1822 : —
In 1804, Venezuela contained,
In Varinas . 500,000
the Government of Maracaibo . 100,000
- - Cumana . 80,000
- Guiana . 34,000
- Margarito . 14,000
728,000
The proportion of which were
2- 10ths Whites . 145,600
3- 10ths Slaves . . . 218,400
4- 10ths Free . 291,200
l-10th Free Indians . 72,000
728,000
Statistical calculations on America, from a letter addressed from Paris, by Baron Hum¬ boldt to Bolivar, the Liberator and President of Colombia : —
mm
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i
I 3
104
Extent of Territorial Superficies in square Leagues of 20 to the Equatorial Degree.
Mexico, or New Spain . 75,830
Guatemala . 16,740
Cuba and Porto Rico . 4,430
Colombia 5 Venezuela.. ....... 33,700
(JVew Grenada.,.. 58,250
Peru . 42,150
Chili . . . . . 14,240
Buenos Ayres . 126,770
Possessions of the Spanish ) _ Americans . . . j 872,110
United States . 125,440
Brazils . 256,990
population in 1822.
6,800,000 1,600,000 800,000 900,000 1,800,000 1,400,000 1,100,000 2,000,000
16,400,000
10,200,000 4,000,000
The above superfices have been calculated with much care from maps corrected by astro¬ nomical observations : the computations having* been verified both by myself and Mr. Mathieu, Member of the Bureau of Longitude. The re¬ sults differ from those contained in the table published in 1809, and inserted in the Political Review on Mexico, in which the inhabited districts were alone calculated, not including the desert tracts belonging to the various tribes of independent natives. The extent of each country to its most distant limits, is now mea¬ sured, which the respective populations ' may one day occupy.
«K
Ihe population of the various parts of America, belonging to the Spaniards, is very
I *
' > ?
uncertain, nevertheless, each branch has been carefully examined according to the latest data, that have come into my possession. This state¬ ment should be looked upon in the same light as the others published by me on America ; that is, as an attempt, which ought hereafter to be perfected. The Statistical divisions can only be brought to perfection and accuracy by de¬ grees, in the same manner as the component parts of the Meteorological and Astronomical
Tables.
Proportions that may assist in a comparison.
Spain contains 16,094 square leagues of 20 to the degree— or, 2,854 toises— making 5,572 metres.
The whole of Europe contains 304,7 10 square leagues.
The whole of Southern America consists of 581,891 square leagues.
(Signed) Humboldt.
SO AT A, nth April, 1823.
Rosario do Cucuta will ever be famed in the annals of Colombia, as the town in which the first general Congress was held, and where the Constitution was formed. In 1820 the deputies of Venezuela and New Grenada assembled here; their session lasted three months, and was held in the sacristy of the parish church. You will readily ima¬ gine that our first pursuit, when refreshed from a fatiguing journey, was to visit this memorable spot. At present there is nothing to comme¬ morate this important event; but the church in which it took place is by far the neatest, and in the best preservation of any we have hitherto seen. The architecture is somewhat in the moorish style, and would do honor to a country more advanced in the arts. It is kept in' the nicest order— the least respect that can be paid to its important history. Amidst a quantity of trash, it contains a painting' by a Mexican artist of the name of Paez ; the chief figures are a Madonna and child, evidently copied from Raphael s Madonna, del Pesce. The execution surpasses what one might expect in a South American artist. It is the offering of a late bishop of Caracas, and was painted in 1774.
I
107
The appearance of the town, in the centre of which is situated the church, is extremely pleas¬ ing; surrounded by rich haciendas, in excellent condition, it is, as it were, in the midst of a de¬ lightful garden. The perspective atthe extremity of each street terminates in beautiful vistas, with high mountains in the back ground. The town, which is not large, lies N. and S. and is in itself neat and well built. It has not suf¬ fered from the earthquake that desolated the neighbouring province; the houses, though no.t large, have a clean appearance ; the streets are paved, with a current of water running through the middle. The population is proportioned to its size, and they appear to indulge in much amusement and gaiety.
One of the greatest curiosities we have met with in this country is a hot spring, distant from this town about a league, in a N . W . direction. We made a point of going to see it, and have again to regret the destruction of our last ther¬ mometer, by which we could accurately have ascertained the heat. The centre of the spring being in the middle of a swamp, prevented our trying it where the heat must necessarily have been the greatest; but from the bubbling which appeared on the surface, the water was evidently in a state of ebullition. The surplus water finds a drain under ground and re-appears at
\
108
twenty yards distance ; of course cooled in a degree by its passage ; but even here the heat is so great, that you cannot bear your hand in it many seconds. The spirits of wine thermo¬ meter only indicated heat as high as 120° to which it immediately rose on being immersed.
have no doubt, that in the middle, an egg might be boiled. It evidently partakes of mi¬ neral properties : iron, I should think, both from the taste, and the ferruginous sediment that is left in its course. It is singular that vegeta¬ tion is remarkably strong immediately round the spring. When its properties are correctly as¬ certained, it will in all probability be of impor¬ tant use. At present it excites no attention.
The inhabitants appear to be very fond of dancing; every evening they assemble in the square to the number of fifty or sixty, and figure away with great animation to the most deafening music, by the light" of paper lanthorns, and the glare of innumerable segars. The chief instru¬ ments are calabashes filled with Indian corn, which are rattled to the thrumming of guitars.
We found provisions much cheaper than in Venezuela, and tolerably abundant. Grapes are grown in the neighbourhood, of a very good quality ; the first we have met with on our way.
109
I
Money is proportionably depreciated ; the dou¬ bloon, for which we paid eighteen dollars and a half at Caracas, here only circulates for six¬ teen.
-"fc
2nd April. Having rested two days at Ro¬ sario, and effected a change of baggage animals, with an addition to our riding stock, we left it
this morning at 9.
%
From a gentle rise west of the town, there is a very pretty view of Rosario, and San Antonio, embosomed in haciendas; the latter is in Vene¬ zuela, the former in the kingdom of New Gre¬ nada. The road from Rosario de Cucuta, in each direction, lies through verdant avenues. We passed rich plantations of cocoa, cane, coffee, and cotton. The latter was only intro¬ duced here in the year 1782. It thrives in almost any soil, provided it be dry, and sheltered from the north winds, which are most destruc¬ tive to it. It is allowed only to grow to the height of six feet, and its numerous branches are covered with pods containing the cotton which envelops the seeds. The same plant will produce several successive years, by being properly pruned, but it is more generally the practice to plant fresh stocks, which always give a larger quantity.
The church is a conspicuous and picturesque object from the eminence above mentioned. The first part of the road was a very steep and rocky ascent, after which we traversed a level tract of great fertility. The soil is generally light, but good, and it might with ease be cleared of the useless shrubs which at present monopolize it. I should think it well calculated for the vine, which is already brought to per¬ fection in the neighbourhood, although to a limited extent. A great deal of rain having fallen during our detention, we were apprehen¬ sive that the river would have been impassable ; however we affected the passage with no other inconvenience than a wetting. A short ascent brought us to a beautiful plain, about a mile in extent, another most favoured situation; its only produce however are useless herbs, which hide a multitude of snakes. The small village of Carillo is situated at the extremity. Here we took up our abode at an hacienda , the owners of which, are proprietors of the plain. The house where we lodged is one of the best in the route, but in common with the rest, almost void of furniture. The only fault to be found here, is the abundance of serpents of different denominations and sizes, with which the place is infested, as well as those tormentors, mos¬ quitos; of the existence of the latter,
our
Ill
persons afforded evident proof the following morning ; and the country people do not stir out after dusk without flambeaux to scare the former.
3 7'd April. Besides coffee, plantains, &c. the estate averages a crop of 250 mule loads of cocoa, which at the present reduced price of all agricultural production, owing to the stag¬ nation of commerce on the side of Maracaibo, is worth 3,500 dollars. The house and ha¬ cienda are let at the low rent of 500 dollars. We proceeded towards the source ol the liver San Jose, which runs through these grounds. We were continually climbing and descending rough steeps incumbered with huge loose stones; the pass however is very fine, with the river at the bottom rolling its accumulating waters over a rocky bed. On either side the defile, the mountainous woods rise to a great height, with masses of rock obtruding through the trees. Our curiosity to see a serpent was for the first time gratified this morning, the pathway being obstructed by one. We succeeded in killing him, after firing three times in truly sportsman¬ like style, that is, at a dong shot ; he proved to be what the natives call a “ Ca^ador” between six and seven feet in length, the head and half the body yellow, the tail part black.
A new road has been made within a year or two from Carillo to Pamplona, the only effort of the kind we have met with. We traversed a very tolerable wooden bridge thrown across the San JosS, and commenced a very fatiguing and long ascent leading to a table land, surrounded by mountains partially covered with pasturage, and small cultivated spots inhabited by poor Indians ; the mountains rising one above the other, terminate in an azure and cloudless sky, which appears to rest on their aspiring summits. On the left of us appeared at a great depth, in a beautiful verdant vale of meadow land, the village of Chinacota, the most pic¬ turesque object imaginable, and greatly resem¬ bling drawings I have met with of Swiss scenery, although I imagine this to be on a grander scale. At this spot we were at a great elevation above the level of the sea, having for some- days gradually, though almost constantly as¬ cended ; this is indicated by the rarity of the air ; we are still making a due southerly course among the ramifications of the Andes. The exuberant fertility of the soil is very remarkable, from every inch of which, vegetation appears to shoot with irresistible force! We stopped for the night at a lone house, about five leagues from Carillo, at a place called Gallenazo, where we obtained cane for the mules, a fowl for
113
ourselves, and were served with the same ready alacrity we have invariably met with,
4 th April. We proceeded early the following morning along a gradual rise; the chain on either side receding, presented partial, but luxuriant cultivation, and some quantity of cattle of a remarkably fine breed. The village of Chopo is placed on an eminence, the approach being by a sloping meadow of considerable extent, well stocked with horses and sheep. The neighbouring country produces, in conse¬ quence of a moderate temperature, wheat and maize, with a variety of fine vegetables. We made an excellent breakfast upon a fowl, fresh eggs, and milk, and two fine pines, which cost the moderate sum of one rial! On leaving the vale, the road which winds round the mountain is comparatively good, commanding extensive prospects, with occasional specimens of good tillage, and a rich soil. On turning one of these eminences we suddenly came in view of the city of Pamplona, placed in a vale about a league in extent, and hemmed in on all sides by high hills of variously coloured earth. It was a perfect panoramic scene of no ordinary beauty. The town is large, and divided into squares, similar to Caracas, the streets running at right angles; a great many churches enliven the
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114
effect, and to each house is attached a portion of garden ground, which at a distance have a very pretty appearance. The surrounding fields are enclosed by stone walls in a regular manner, giving an air of proprietorship which is not often met with, but exhibited little vegeta¬ tion, it being the winter season. Several streams run through the vale from north to south. The very picturesque effect from the distant emi¬ nence, was hardly realized on descending to the town ; for many of the houses are abandoned, the streets overgrown with grass, and gardens neglected. Contrary to our plan, we staid a whole day here, having met with an old ac¬ quaintance, Colonel Lyster, with whom we took up our quarters, and were entertained most hospitably. There are no less than ten churches and convents here, a sufficient reason in itself for the existing poverty ; added to which, it has been made amilitary station, and at present is a depot for invalided soldiers, upwards of 300 of whom are in the different hospitals. We visited the convent of Franciscan nuns, thirty-two in number, who have the reputation of being very rich. In the church there is the most splendid altar piece imaginable, as rich as gilding can make it, and of very handsome workmanship. A multitude of paintings deco¬ rate the walls, but none of any merit. The
115
/
Colonel happens to be a favourite with the sisterhood, and receives frequent presents from them ; during our stay they sent some excellent preserves, for which they are very celebrated. The cathedral is a good deal ornamented, but the only article of merit or taste is a painting of St. Francis. The artist’s name we could not learn, but the work is much in the style of Velasquez. The rest of the convents are vacated, and the churches contain nothing remarkable. We visited a Colombian family here, who are emigrants from Cucuta, in con- sequence of Morales’ advance ; the females were the most favourable specimens of their sex that we have had the fortune to meet with. This is considered a very cold place, and in fact we felt a considerable change of temperature, the average during the day being about 60°, and in the night as low as 42°.
Within two days journey of this town, are the gold mines of Veta, mentioned by Humboldt, they have not been regularly worked for the last cen¬ tury, but the Indians occasionally bring grains to sell of a considerable size. The commandant told us that last year he had forwarded a solid piece of gold to the capital, weighing upwards of six pounds. We understood there were mines of copper and silverimmediately adjoining.
i 2
116
The population of Pamplona is about 3200, amongst which are many objects frightful from the goitres.
6th April . It was nine in the morning of the sixth before we left Pamplona accompanied by Colonel Lyster. The country assumes a sterile appearance, excepting only the spontaneous growth of a variety of mountain shrubs, such as myrtle, box, acacia, &c. Our route lay south through the same range that we have been long traversing ; the first part was a steep ascent, but the road unusually good, owing prin¬ cipally to the nature of the soil, a species of mica , so brilliant, as to have all the appearance of silver.*
At the distance of two leagues is a delicious spring of water issuing from the mountain, as cold as if it were iced, and of excellent flavour; even in a country where the water is so good, this was peculiarly grateful. On the summit of a mountain, at the distance of three leagues from Pamplona, and just above the small village of Cacuta is a lake of small dimensions, where the
V ' * ' * * . \ ' ‘ ■ * ■■
* The existence in Venezuela of a mountain of this substance, of a gold colour, was the cause of all the fables and researches for the celebrated El Dorado.
117
/
river Apur6 has its source ; we did not observe any outlet, consequently its waters must filter through the soil till they form the small current observable at the foot of the eminence. The vil¬ lage is a miserable hole, encompassed by a bar¬ ren soil ; nevertheless, we observed some fine cat¬ tle feeding on the mountains. We continued the same course, constantly ascending and descend¬ ing lofty eminences, which extended to the right and left, and although mostly barren, forming a grand scenery from their diversity of shape and outline. It was nearly dusk when we arrived at the village of Chitaga, a distance of nine leagues, situated on a high spot, com¬ manding the vale. Although the Alcalde put half the village in requisition for our service, we fared but badly, and our animals worse. The hooping cough has committed great ravages here ; indeed, it is surprising how any of the children survive who are attacked by it, owing to the mode of treatment, and total absence of medicines and medical aid; spirits, and the strongest astringents being the usual means of cure resorted to. We were told that Bolivar intended making' this a position ot some impor¬ tance, but its want of natural resources seems opposed to such a project. The chief support of this place is grain and potatoes, with little pasture, natural or artificial. The climate is cool.
118
the max. in the day being 65°, and min. 48°, during our stay.
1th April. We had been told to prepare for a formidable undertaking, in the passage of the Paramo Almocadero. Leaving Chitaga at an early hour, we began the ascent for the most part gradual, and on a good road. Nothing- can be more dreary and sterile than this tract, often losing sight of Chitaga ; at the expiration of five hours we gained the summit of the Para¬ mo, without any other inconvenience than chap¬ ped lips, from the extreme rarity of the atmos¬ phere. The sun shone with cloudless splendour, and the glass did not fall below 62°. It is not however fabulous or imaginary, that inconveni¬ ence and even danger are often experienced in traversing it, so great is the exposure to the inclemency of the atmosphere, to which many a traveller has fallen a victim, and is now buried - on its summit. Human bones were even then lying about, and some hundred rude crosses, erected by the passing traveller, either to com¬ memorate the fact of a friend emparamado (a victim of the Paramo,) or a grateful offering at his escaping its danger. In all probability this is the highest spot we have gained in our jour¬ ney, and I regret not having the means of ascer¬ taining the elevation with precision. An hour and a half of gradual descent brought us to a farm
J 19
house and Pulperia, where we proposed re¬ maining the night, as there was good pasturage in the vicinity. We again had occasion to remark the beauty of the cattle; multitudes of goats skipping on the mountains, flocks of sheep, and a quantity of breeding mares. Hatojurado is the name of the place. The glass fell to 52° during the night. The following morning we found that the heat of the sun, and rarity of the air had more than usually scorched us.
8th April. Hence we proceeded at an early hour, through a stony valley, difficult and disa¬ greeable for man and beast. At the distance of a league and a half we passed the small and miserable village of Serito, elevated a little above the river Tequia ; and at another half league Servita, something better, but poverty- stricken withal : from the latter to the village of La Concepcion , we observed a gradual improve¬ ment both in respect to fertility and cultivation, and a corresponding increase of cattle. In passing through the village we recognized an acquaintance made at Pamplona, Gaetano Gar¬ cia, the Curate, and at his invitation we halted during the heat of the day. Our worthy host deserves the most favourable mention ; to his hospitality he united every useful and moral quality. Under his auspices the small village
120
and its inhabitants are in a state of amelioration. Several new houses are in progress ; a school
is established for the education of the children
/ *
of the villagers ; his usefulness extends also to a knowledge of medicine, a qualification as es¬ sential as it is rare to be met with here ; his lite-
/
rary acquirements, and unbigotted generous sen¬ timents, render him agreeable in society. His house, kept in the neatest order; and pleasantly situated, is a most desirable resting place for travellers. It was with regret we left him late in the afternoon to pursue our route. The as¬ pect of the country improves considerably on leaving the village ; the valley well cultivated with sugar-cane, maize &c. is watered by the Tequia. At a short distance from the village is a considerable formation of sulphur, which im¬ pregnates the surrounding atmosphere. The proprietor derives no advantage from it, but en¬ tirely neglects it. We had not an opportunity of visiting it, having mistaken our road, and instead of going to Llano Anciso, found ourselves far , advanced towards Malaga. It being too late to return, we gained the latter, a considerable village situated midway on a sloping mountain of great elevation ; the land is in full cultivation, and divided by hedges nearly to its rocky summit ; abundance of fine cattle and horses were feed¬ ing in the pasture which encompasses it. The
'*T“
»<av i ym •
121
Alcalde furnished us with a lodging where the only nuisance was such a progeny of half starved pigs, that it was with difficulty our animals could, even with our assistance, secure a part of their rations from their undaunted assaults. Whether from curiosity or respect I know not, but we were visited by a large por¬ tion of the population, all eager to exert them¬ selves in our service.
9th April. The following morning we had to make good the ground lost the preceding even¬ ing; we descended by a winding and steep road to the village of Llano Anciso, situated in the midst of cultivated fields of sugar-cane and maize, on a sloping bank gradually declining to the river Tequia, which we crossed by a bridge of rude and tottering workmanship ; the popu¬ lation of this village suffered exceedingly from the goitre. The deformity caused by this dis¬ ease is really extraordinary, its victims having little the appearance of human beings ; and it has gained such an extended empire in the country as to engage the attention of the Go¬ vernment, who have urged the Legislature to de¬ cree a handsome premium for the discovery of a cure or antidote to the evil. In riding through the village, we were repeatedly saluted with mira ! no tienen Grotosl which signifies, see
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they have no Goitres ! thus, happily for its vic¬ tim, this disease is considered by them as rather ornamental than otherwise ! Continuing along the defile, narrowing by degrees, the country gradually loses its appearance of fertility, until it terminates in arid and rocky mountains, through which the Tequia continues to wind. The sun now became exceedingly powerful, and we had no resource but that of proceeding to Ca- pitanejo ; we therefore crossed by a steep ridge of mountains, from this into another parallel chain, at the bottom of which was a river, and from thence gained a second range of still greater elevation, from the summit of which we had an extensive view of the vale of Capita- nejo, running N. and S. and watered by a rapid and considerable river, the Chichamache ; the left bank is well cultivated with sugar-cane, which gives it a lively appearance, and forms a pleasing contrast to the dark and barren moun¬ tains which rise on the other side. During the whole of our journey I have not felt the heat half so oppressive as in crossing these ridges. At two o’clock we reached the village, nearly melted by a cloudless and vertical sun. The population of this village does not exceed 200 to 250 souls, a large proportion of which are rendered most unsightly from the before-mentioned disease, and a species of ele -
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phanticisis which swells their limbs to a most unnatural size. The heat varied from 82 to 86 degrees during our stay here, a great transition from the temperature we had lately experienced. We were entertained here with a new species of vermin, cucuvachos , about the size of a large beetle, which found their way into the hammocks.
A new church has lately been built here, and a pretty bridge thrown across the muddy river ; the water was intolerably bad, the only place where we have found it so.
10^ April. We took our departure at an early hour, our way lying across the bridge, and followed the course of the valley about a league, accompanied by the rapid and muddy Chichamache ; leaving it on the left, the road winds up a high pass ; the more we ascended the more the soil improved, and on the summit, which it took us two hours to gain, the cultiva¬ tion is considerable ; a short descent brought us to Tipacaque, an estate belonging to a convent of nuns, but now occupied by the director of posts, where we staid during the heat of the day ; the chief produce is sugar-cane, corn, and maize, enjoying a temperate climate and rich soil. In advancing further, we had some ex¬ tensive prospects ; the road was diversified with various wild flowers of great beauty, amongst
V
which, different sorts of box and myrtle were pre-eminent. In the course of the day we shot a great many doves. The approach to Soata is one of the most imposing sights imaginable. At the back of the town, which is situated midway on a sloping eminence, the land divided by hedges, like the sections of a map, is culti¬ vated to the very summit. The mountains here appeared to concentrate their chains, forming a vast amphitheatre of prodigious height and magnitude ; one mass rises above another till their heads are lost in clouds. A storm was pending over their dark summits as we ap¬ proached the town, and the effect of the thunder, rolling from one chain to another in the distance, was extremely grand. In itself Soata possesses little worthy of note. We availed ourselves of the invitation of the Alcalde, to make use of his house, where we received every civility, but being attended by several of his family, who were most unsightly victims to goitres, neutra¬ lized all pleasurable feelings. We were detained here a whole day in procuring a relay of mules to conduct the baggage to Bogota, which last division of our journey I will describe in my next.
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BOGOTA , 25th April, 1823.
]2 th April. A short distance from the town of Soata we met a detachment of seven hundred recruits, commanded by Col. Manby, who were marching towards the line of operations lound Maracaibo. I believe that we have now passed the most difficult and elevated spots in this ex¬ tensive branch of the Andes, in which we have been immersed thirty-one days ; the mountains are gradually diminishing. The bridge over a river which we had to pass, having been carried away the preceding night by the violence of the mountain torrent, we were obliged to make a detour to reach the village of Susacco, about three leagues distant, where we made a halt to give time for the baggage to come up ; and were most hospitably and generously enter¬ tained in the house of Madame Calderon, a very superior woman. Far from being able to in¬ duce her to accept any recompence for her kind reception, she said that one of her greatest plea¬ sures, as she conceived it to be her duty, was to administer to the wants of travellers, espe¬ cially when they were foreigners! At three we proceeded gradually to ascend a mountain, which was cultivated in all directions ; a num¬ ber of cottages being scattered about, to each
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H
oi which was attached from ten to twenty acres of land, producing wheat, potatoes, &c. of very good quality. Before we had gained the sum¬ mit, a heavy storm came on, which soon ren¬ dered the road so slippery, it being a clayey soil, that with difficulty our animals could keep their footing, which forced us to take shelter for the night in a small hut by the road side ; the cold was very intense, and with impatience
we waited for day-light to proceed on our journey.
13^ April. The next morning our road continued very slippery and dangerous, parti¬ cularly during the remainder of the ascent ; the country on either side is remarkably fertile, each cottage being surrounded with corn lands, in a clean and thriving state. We had a long descent to the parish of Satiou, where we arrived between nine and ten ; its scite is on an elevated plain, backed by a semi-circular mountain of considerable extent and height, presenting every appearance of a rich and prolific soil, although imperfectly cultivated. It being Sunday and market-day, the village, as is customary on such occasions, was all bustle; there were assembled in the square from twelve to fifteen hundred persons of different classes and avoca¬ tions. In one corner the commandant was ex-
ercising the militia, — the ne plus ultra of all awkward squads ! and who went through then evolutions with characteristic leisure in another the country people had assembled with their various wares and produce ; while others weie pouring into the church at the call of the Sa¬ cristan’s bell. A most striking improvement was observable here, in the comparative absence of the goitres, which have attended us through so large a portion of the country; indeed, amongst the crowd, we did not fail to distin¬ guish some pretty faces, half enveloped in blue mantles, with which they cover their heads and shoulders, a straw hat surmounting it, blue petticoats and sandals made of cord ; the tout - ensemble is not unlike the style of dress ot the Welsh peasantry.
The temperature here was moderate and agreeable.
At the distance of half a league is another small village of the same name, only called the pueblo, or town. After a trifling advance, we were again compelled to seek shelter for the night in a miserable pulperia, by the road side, in consequence of an approaching storm, and the badness of the roads. I doubt if we have been as badly lodged elsewhere. In a small
I
128
hovel, the half of which was occupied with our luggage, we had barely room to suspend our hammocks, the country people, who were over¬ taken by the storm in their return from mass, and the Sunday festivities, were pouring in like drowned rats, and occupying the outhouses and pulperia, solacing themselves with guarapo* Not without difficulty could we procure any pas¬ turage for our train of twenty-two mules ; to¬ wards night the family came creeping into the hut — men, women, and children, about a dozen of them, besides dogs, cats, and poultry, all pigging together.
14 th April. The rain having ceased, we were glad to be off at an early hour ; a gradual and slippery descent brought us to the river Chi- quito — a mountain stream running with great force. At Soapaga, distant two leagues, we fed the mules, and continued our course for Serinsa. Thus far there is a striking difference between Venezuela and New Grenada; the former is more wooded, less peopled, and, generally speaking, more fertile, but as we now gradually leave the chain of Andes, the soil is better cul¬ tivated ; numerous huts and cottages present themselves, each of which possesses a portion of ground more than sufficient to support the inhabitants ; the roads continue to improve as
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