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THE BOSTON COOKING 5CHGDL MAGAZINE CQ
372BOYISTONS" BOSTON MASS
THE WHOLESOME
SURPASSES ALL OTHERS IN HEALTHFUL AND BAKING QUALITIES.
It is a food itself, made of the genuine Professor Horsford's Phosphate, thereby supplying the nutritious and str giving phosphates so essential to health, which die ^ moved from flour in the process of bolting. Hot Biscuit, Rolls, Muffins, etc., made vv^ith Rumford Baking Powder can be eaten hot without detriment.
Its action in the dough is thorough, producing superior Cake, Biscuit, etc., of the finest texture, and without impairing the most delicate flavorings that may be used.
The Best at a I^easonable Cost.
30
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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine
OF
Culinary Science and Domestic Economics
Volume XV ^X y
June-July, 1910— May, 1911 Copyright, 1910, 1911, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co.
Published Monthly by
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass.
COMPLETE INDEX, VOL. XV
June July, 1910— May, 1911
Page
After Breakfast Chat 148
Appertaining to Our Christmas Dainties 245
April . 440
Autumn 133
Autumn Specter, An 131
Bargain Hunters 463
Baseball Entertainment, A 421
Because She Loved Adventure .... 225
Before A Lady's Portrait ...... 221
Being Married 65
Bridewell Cake, The 16
Call of the South, The 465
Chair of Manners, A , 173
Chestnuting Time 175
Choice Masquerade Costumes 343
Christmas 247
Christmas Tree, The 217
Common Sense 363
Cookery in Literature 345, 371
Cooperative Christma' jJinner, A . . . 218
Cradle Song 277
Daguerreotyped ^ .aid, The 321
Decline of Ger.jiity, The 313
Diet in Typlvjid Fever 196
Dishes for Automobile and Picnic Lunch- eons .... 57
Dove and the Eagle, The 152
Do You Get Pure or Deadly Milk? . . 451
Dumas and Neapolitan Macaroni . . . 462
Editorials ... 25, 78, 134, 182, 230, 278, 326,
374, 422, 470
Entrees, Character and Service of . . . 436
Experts 12
Facts 315
Fate 70
Food and Economy 390
Food and Health 484
French Manners 270
Friend's Friends, A ; . 413
Garden Seats (III.) 3
Goin' to School 108
Grapes 133
Group of Choice Mexican and Spanish
Recipes, A 96
Hands that Wash Dishes, The .... 408
Head of the House, The 466
Heart of the Home, The 270
Her Potatoless Dinner 415
Home Ideas and Economies . . 48, 104, 154, 202, 251, 299, 348, 395, 441,491
Home Light, The 407
Housework 223
How Much Shall We Spend for Food . 10
Humble Chimney, The (111.) 403
In August 73
In February 344
Innocents Abroad 176
Interlude, An 417
In Time of Vacation 94
Page
It Pays 457
January 265
June 6
Last of the Snowiclans 319
Lessons in Elementary Cooking . . .41, 150,
293, 390, 340, 438, 486
Light Suppers of the French, The . . 392
Linda's Dual Personality 359
Little Dinners for January 257
Love and Affection 75
Lucy 221
Madeira, The Island of 458
March 367
Menus . . . 35-38, 90-92, 113, 146, 147, 161,
193-195, 242-244, 290-292, 338, 339, 386, 378, 401, 434-435, 482
Menus for Buffet Suppers 305
Menus for Church Luncheons .... 449
Menus for Little Dinners 209
Menus for Little Dinners and Luncheons 353
Menus for Old Ladies' Home .... 483
Miss Eversham's Rug 274, 322, 368
Modern Taste in' Curtains 259
Moral House Cleaning 410
Municipal Conscience, A 366
Nature's Songs 182
'Neath Skies of June 13
Neighborly Girls Find the Open Sesame,
The 14
New Year Guest, A 265
Nursery, The 97
Nursery Hangings (111.) 307
Nurserv Screens 455
Oasis .' 130
Old Age 73
On the Whole_ 268
Once in a While 312
One of the World's Famous Tables (111.) 310
One Thanksgiving 171
Our Fireless Cooker 490
Out of Chicken Pie 71
Parisian Cheap Restaurants 247
Passing of Pemmican, The 20
Path, The 325
Petty Economies 125
Plea for the Enthusiastic Home Woman 460
Potterv of Todav and Yesterdav ... 211
Practical Home Dietetics 43, 99, 295
Psychology of Clothes 8
Quaint Customs and Toothsome Dainties' 59
Regeneration of Podunk 67
Rendering Cheese Digestible 19
Reprieve, A 317
Rhymed Receipts for Any Occasion . . 93
Romany Tent, A n
Rose, the Poppy, and the Lily, The . . 1
Scallop Fishing from Maine to Mass. (111.) 355 Some Uses to which the Attic May Be
Put 163
COMPLETE INDEX
Page
Souvenir Enforced, A 128
Spring 398
Substitutes for Meat 39
Summer's Passing 125
Sun's Wooing, The 416
Take Account of Your Blessings . . . 169
Task We Love, The 95
Thanksgiving 205
Third Meal, The 180
This Day 273
Though the Sea Roar 121
Three Girls Go Blackberrying l(i
Three Girls in Gotham 318
Use of Stone in Fire Places 115
Very Latest, The — hn Easter Vagary . 320
Window Washing 488
Young Nurse, A 168
Seasoxable Recipes :
Apples, Blushing, with Sauce (111.) 337
Apricots, Frozen, City Style .... 34
Asparagus. Maltese Sauce (111.) . . 427
Bananas, Baked 337
Baskets, Christmas (111.) 239
Beans, Red Kidney, Mexican Style
(111.) 28
Biscuit, Rye Meal 34
Bouillon, jellied 82
Bread, Aviation (111.) 285
Bread, Croutons of • . 426
Bread, Swedish (111.) 238
Brioche (111.) 288
Broth, Clam 289
Buns, Floradora (111.) 31
Buns, Hot Cross (111.) 477
Cake, Birthday (111.) 287
Cake, Chocolate Layer 337
Cake, Christmas Fudge, with Fruit and
Nut Filling and Icing (111.) ... 240 Cake. Cocoa, with Lilac Decoration
(111.) 429
Cake, Mrs. Stoke's (111.) ...... 145
Cake, Sponge, with Potato Flour (111.) 429
Cake, Tutti Frutti Filling for ... . 287
Cakes, Valentine (111.) ZZ1
Canapes, Crabflake Maltaise 233
Candy, Turkish Cream (111.) .... 384 Cauliflower, Cold, with Aspic Mayon- naise (111.) 142
Cauliflower, Creamed, Au Gratin (111.) 190
Caviare Medallions 281
Charlotte, Simple Apple (111.) ... 143
Charlotte Russe, Caramel (111.) ... 336
Charlotte Russe, Prune 34
Charlotte Russe, I and II (111.) ... 430
Cheese Course (111.) 190
Chicken, Chaudfroid of (111.) .... 473
Chicken, Fried with Samp (111.) . . 236
Chicken, Princess Stvle (111.) .... 332
Chicken and Ham, Terrine of (111.) . 84 Chicken and Macaroni, Chafing Dish
Style : . . 473
Chicken Loaf (III.) 381
Chickens, Giblet Sauce, and Bread
Dressing (111.) 188
Chops, Lamb, Breaded with Tomato
Sauce 333
Page
Chops, Lamb, Maintenon Style (111.) 380-
Chops, Pork, Dinner Style (111.) . . 284
Chops, Veal, en Casserole (111.) . . . 473-
Chowder, Green Corn 83
Cocktail, Grapefruit and White Grape 329
Cocktail of Broiled Live Lobster . . 137
Cocoa, To serve 30 or 125 (111.) . . 377
Consomme, Christmas 233-
Cookies, Small Chocolate 192"
Corn, Green, au Gratin (111.) .... 88
Coupes Venus (111.) 288
Cream, Apricot Bavarian (111.) . . . 144
Croquettes, Crabflake 186
Croquettes, Ice Cream (111.) .... 479
Croquettes, Rice, Cheese Sauce (111.) 30-
Croustades, Potato 333
Custard, Boiled with Snow Eggs (111.) 477
Custard, Caramel (111.) 144
Custard, Tomato 233-
Cutlets, Breaded IMutton, with Cuban
Sauce 138-
Cutlets, Lamb, Laura (111.) 475
Eggnog, Frozen 241
Eggs, Guinea Hen's, a la Christiana . 281
Eggs, Halves of. Stuffed 425
Eggs, en Cocottes with Asparagus . 474 Eggs, Molded with Pimentos (111.) . 379 Eggs, Poached, with Pimento and To- mato Sauce 431
Eggs, ScramlDled, with Croutons . . 334
Eggs, Truffled a la Muscovite (111.) . 329
Egg-Yolks, Poached for Soup . . . 426 Figs, Stewed with Charlotte Russe
Cream (111.) 478
Fish, Creamed in Potato Cassolets
(111.) • 186
Fish, Creamed in Scallop Shells (111.) 378
Fish Loaf, Chowder from Remnants of 27
Fish Loaf, Simple (111.) ._ 26
Fowl, Boiled or Steamed, with Poulette
Sauce (111.) 141
Fowl, Guinea, Roasted, with Bread
Sauce 188
Fritter Batter 140
Fritters, Lenten 385
Frosting, Confectioner's and Boiled . 430
Fudge, Maple 241
Gnocchi a la Romain (111.) ...... 28
Gnocchis, Italienne (111.) 140
Grape-fruit Cocktail 282
Grape-fruit, Plain 282
Grape-fruit with Powdered Sugar . . 282
Grape-fruit with White Grapes . . . 330
Halibut, Fillets of, Florentine Style . 283
Halibut, Fritter Batter for 474
Halibut, Julienne of, Figaro Sauce
(111.) 474
Ice Cream Sundae 192
Ice Cream, Vanilla, Chocolate Sauce
(111.) 34
Jelly, Aspic 332, 476
Jelly, Sweet-Pickle 235
Kohlrabi au Gratin (111.) 139
Kuchen, Kugelhopf (111.) 89
Lady Fingers 145
Lamb, Boned Leg of Roasted (111.) . 138
Lamb, Roast Leg of, IMarine .... 481
COMPLETE INDEX
Page
Lamb, Roasted Leg of, Franconia (111.) 138
Macaroni a la Reine 32
Macaroni au Gratin, Creamed .... 32
Macaroni, Savory 32
Marguerites 144
Marinade for Lamb, Game, etc. . . . 481
Marshmallows, Glace (111.) 240
Mayonnaise, Latest Method (111.) . . 382
Meat, Cold, with Vegetable Salad (111.) 85
Meringues, Almond, Lady Finger (111.) 335
Meringues, with Whipped Cream (111.) 240
Muffins, Cranberry (111.) 286
Muffins, White Cornmeal 145
Mush, Banana 288
Mushrooms, Algonquin Style .... 433
Omelet, Rice, Cheese Sauce 380
Oysters, Escaloped 83
Parfait, Fig (111.) 430
Parfait, Grape Juice (111.) 89
Parfait, Nesselrode 145
Paste, Puff 191
Paste, Turkish Blood Orange (111.) . 478
Pastry, Plain and Flaky 86, 87
Peaches, Manhattan Style (111.) . . 429
Pears, Beatrice (111.) ........ 87
Peppers, Green, Fried 143
Pie, Chicken, Biscuit Crust (111.) . . 187
Pie, Fish-and-Oyster 238
Pie, Mock Mince and Banana .... 385
Pig, Shoulder of. Marinated (111.) . . 234
Pig, Shoulder of. Roasted (111.) ... 234
Pimentos, with Samp (111.) 236
Potatoes, Breakfast 481
Potatoes, Mashed, Nantaise 190
Potatoes, Mashed with Peas (111.) . 480
Pralines 24
Pretzels, German (III.) 189
Pudding, Chestnut (111.) 191
Pudding, Cold Apricot (111.) .... 480
Pudding, Cottage with Sauce .... 385
Pudding, Delicate 34
Punch, Ginger Ale (111.) 192
Rabbit, Mexican (111.) 378
Rice, Boiled or Steamed (111.) ... 141
Risotto 30
Rissoles, Chicken-and-Ham (111.) . . 85
Rocks, Miss Bower 145
Roe, Creamed in Pimentos 433
Rolls, Coffee, from Brioche (111.) . . 289
Rolls, Easter Breakfast (111.) .... 427
Rolls, Quick Yeast 384
Salad, Apple-and-Cumquat (111.).. . . 286
Salad, Asparagus in Pimentos (111.) . 382
Salad, Asparagus and Radish (111.) . 383
Salad, Cabbage, for Roast Pork ... 235
Salad, Cheese (111.) 86
Salad, Chicken, Christmas Style (111.) 236 Salad, Grape-fruit, White Grapes and
Quince (111.) 334
Salad, Lima-and-Black Bean (111.) . . 29
Salad, Peach (111.) 89
Salad, Persimmon (111.) 286
Salad, Prune-and-Pecan Nut (111.) . 428
Salad, Komaine, with Dressing (111.) 142
Salad of Asparagus Mousse (111.) . . 384
Salmon, Hot, Canned (111.) .... 186
Salmon Mousseline, with Sauce (111.) 426
Page
Sandwich, Cream Cheese-and-Ginger. 288
Sandwich, Hot Chicken, Indienne . . 285
Sardines, Deviled, 473
Sauce, Blushing Apples, with Orange 289
Sauce, Brown Tomato 234
Sauce, Chaudfroid 332, 476
Sauce, Fish, Bechamel and Holland-
aise 330
Sauce, Hollandaise 433
Sauce, Mint 481
Sauce, Vinaigrette 85-
Sausage with Pineapple Fritters (111.) 8S
Shad, Planked, Supreme (111.) ... 432
Sherbet, Dried Apricot 480-
Sherbet, Grape Juice 89
Shortcake, Asparagus (111.) .... 31
Souffle, Spinach ....'. IBS
Soup, Bisque of Clams and Green Peas 81
Soup, Black Bean 26'
Soup, Chestnut 185'
Soup, Christmas 234
Soup, Clam Broth, Chantilly .... 81
Soup, Cream of Chestnut 186
Soup, Cream of Clam 185
Soup, Cream of Spinach 377
Soup, Cream of String Bean .... 25
Soup, Economical Rice 142
Soup, Emergency 25
Soup, Lima Bean 137
Soup, Nivernaise 283
Soup, Pumpkin 283
Soup, Puree of Tomato, Julienne . . 82
Soup, Tomato 425
Soup, Tomato Bisque 82
Soup, Tomato with Barley 377
Squash, Summer, Fried (111.) .... 139
Steak,, Hamburg (new recipe) .... 432
Steak, Swiss (111.) 284
Stew, Italian 143
Strawberries, Early June Style ... 33 Strawberry Tart (111.) with English
Cream 33
Strawberry-and-Pineapple, Fancy (111.) 33
Succotash 33
Succotash, Kornlet 231
Svllabub, Grape Juice 241
Tarts, Cranberry (111.) 190
Timbale, Halibut, with Peas (111.) . . 330
Timbales, Egg with Asparagus (111.) 2S
Toast, Spanish 140
Tomatoes, Baked, Luncheon Style . . 433
Tomatoes, Fried, with Cheese .... 142
Tomatoes, Stewed 241
Turnips, Creamed 334
Veal, Galantine of (111.) 330
Wafers, Honey 385
Wafers, Oat-flake 288'
W^atermelon Cones (111.) 89
Wreaths, Christmas (111.) 239
Queries and Answers: .
Angel Food, Directors for Baking . . 496
Apples, Manhattan Style 400
Banana, Baked, Sultana Sauce .... 447
Beef, Braised Rump of 495
Blitz Kuchen 109
Bread. Baked Brown 55
COMPLETE INDEX
Page
Bread, Bran 350
Bread, Cause of Bursting in Oven . . 400
Bread, Whole Wheat 448
Brownies, Chocolate 496
Buns .^ 206
Buns, Squash 207
Cake, Devil's Food 54
Cake, Fig Layer, with Filling .... 255
Cake, Marshmallow, with Icing . . . 352
Cake, Moist Chocolate 54
Cake, Soft, White Layer 399
Cake, Sponge for Jelly Roll .... Ill
Cakes, Tea 256
Candy. Taflfy 399
Chops, Lamb en Casserole 350
Chops, Lamb, Maintenon Style . . . 159
Chops, Mushroom and Risotto for . . 159
Chops, Mutton, Luncheon Style . . . 351
Chowder, Clam 160
Cocktail, Oyster 206
Coffee, After Dinner 496
Consomme, with Flagolet 158
Cream, Chocolate 208
Cream, Mocha 208
Crullers, Toughness of 53
Cumquats, Preserved 304
Currants, Bar-le-Duc 112
ligg Timbales, Bread Sauce 447
Fggs, Benedict Ill
Figs, Sliced in Wine Jelly 303
Fig Whip 304
Fish Dinner, Menu for, etc 54
Flour, Use of Pastry 448
Food for 30 People 495
Frostings, Regarding Cake 256
Fruit, Macedoine of Winter 303
Fruits and Punches, Serving of . . . 207
Gingerbread, Rochester 56
Grape Juice, Recipe for 160
Gravy, Pan, for Roast Beef 207
Grease Spots, Removal of 352
Halibut Steaks with Oysters .... 446
Ice Cream, Dark Chocolate 109
Ice Cream, Strawberry 56
Icing, Almond 256
Jelly, Mint and Mint-Apple . . . . . 55
Page
Jelly, Mint, Recipe for 159
Jelly, Tomato, Aspic 110
Lemon Filling 158
Mince Meat 208
Muffins, Plain 255
Mushrooms, Preparation of, for Broil- ing 495
Oil, Value of. Cooked 160
Onions, Spanish, Stuffed with Nuts 352
Onions, Stuffed with Nuts 304
Oyster a la Poulette 446
Pastry, Lard or Butter 158
Pickles, Watermelon Rind 159
Pie, Cream Fig 495
Pie, Pumpkin 255
Pie, Softening of Crust of Custard 256
Pie, Squirrel, with Flaky Pastry . . 208
Pigs in Blankets 56
Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel ... 447
Potatoes, Duchesse 160
Powder, Canning 208
Pudding, Baked Tapioca, with Peaches 351
Pudding, Serving Green Corn .... 160
Pudding, Steamed Fig 304
Puddings, Steamed Orange, Prune,
Raisin, etc 55
Punch, Lemon 207
Punch, Roman 206
Rice, Green Color in 494
Rolls, Rasped 56
Rusks, Slightly Sweetened 208
Salad, Alligator Pear 303
Salad, Fig-and-Orange 304
Salad, Orange and Banana 399
Salad, Prune-and-Pecan Nut .... 448
Sandwiches, Aviation, Club Style . . 350
Scum, Composition of, on Jelly . . . 494
Snaps, Brandy 351
Soup, Cream of Corn . Ill
Sundae, Ice Cream, Fruit 207
Sweet Pickles, To Make Less Acid . 255
Time Table for Cooking 110
Tomato Rabbit 448
Tomatoes and Potatoes at Same Meal 494
Tongues, How to Pickle 399
Torte, Rve Bread 351
ADVERTISEMENTS
\>s<
Premiums for New Subscriptions
The following premiums will be given to present subscribers only, in payment for their efforts in securing and sending to us new yearly subscriptions at 2 1. 00 each. No premium is given with a subscription or for a renewal.
AMERICAN KITCHEN FRIEND SET
As illustrated. Sent for three new subscriptions. Express to be paid by receiver.
FOR ONE NEW SUBSCRIPTION
we will send postpaid a 3-pint
ICE CREAM MOLD
of the very best quality.
FOR ONE NEW SUBSCRIPTION we will send postpaid a
GOLDEN-ROD CAKE PAN
(Waldorf Triangle pan) of the very best quality.
A SPATULA
There are few utensils more useful than a spatula. All professional cooks use them, and where once used they be- come a necessity. We will send an eight- inch one of the best make, postpaid, for one new subscription.
FOR TWO NEW
Subscrip- t i o n s we will send, postpaid, a set of six individual
CHARLOTTE RUSSE MOLDS
FOR TWO NEW Sub- scriptions we will send, postpaid, a set of eight individual
ALUMINUM TIMBALE MOLDS
These are very popular.
SEND US TWO NEW SUBSCRIPTIONS AND WE WILL RENEW lOUR OWN SUBSCRIPTION FOR ONE YEAR AS PREMIUM
The Boston Cooking-School Magazine, Boston, Mass.
XXSX5©CX3S»CX1XSX!XX>»<X.XSX;X^^
Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
TKe Best o/ All Shortening
is Real Leaf Lard
Tea Biscuits— Sift one quart of flour with one tea- spoonful of salt, and three rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Into this ruboiielargeteaspoonful of Armour's "Simon Pure" LeafLard. Add just enough sweet milk to make a dough easUy handled Roll out and bake for about fifteen minutes in very hot oven.
INew Eoiiland Dourfhnuts— Scant cup granu- lated suear, rounding tablespoonful "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard, cupful sweet milk, two eggs, one-founh teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon nutmeg, four cup- f'lls flour, four rounding teaspoonfuls baking powder. Roll out one-fourth of an inch thick, cut and fry in Armour's " Simon Pure" Leaf Lard,
Old-Fasbloned Su({ar Cookies— One cupful of Armour's " Simon Pure" Leaf La»d, three cupfuls sugar, three eggs, one cupful buttermilk, one level tea- spoonfui* da, one-half nutmeg grated, pinch of salt, two cupfuls pastry flour. Add enough flour to make a dough easily handled. Cut out one-eighth of an inch thick ; cover with granulated sugar and bake a deli- cate brown.
Pie Paste — One level cup of pastry flour, one-hal cup of Armour's ">iinon Pure" Leaf Lard, rne-half teaspoon salt one-fourth cup cold water. Mix salt and flour thoroughly, chop in the lard, add water. Use as little flour as possible when rolling out. This makes a light, crisp, flaky and delicious pie crust.
It is the shortening that made old-time cooks famous for their wonderful hot breads, flaky pastry, light and feathery cakes — all digestible as well as delicious.
These old-fashioned cooks rendered their own lard — made it in open kettles just as "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard is made today.
Armour's "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard is the fine, pure, sweet, delicate lard our grandmothers had to make for themselves, but even better because of our wonderful facilities, materials and long years of experience.
** Simon Pure'*
LEAF LARD
is the very cream of the land — better than butter when butter is called for because it doesn't cook so dry.
And while it costs a trifle more than ordinary lard you need only use two-thirds as much.
There is just one way for you to get this finest of all lard. Be sure the label reads Armour's "Simon Pure" Leaf Lard.
Save this advertisement and try some of these recipes. They will give you wonderfully good results. Then write to us for " Pastry Wrinkles," from which they are taken. We send it free. Address
ARMOUR aWdCOMPANY
Dept. G 146
Chicago
Buy Advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes ' viiin
/
The Rose, the Poppy and the Lily
By Helen Coale Crew
Flower of dawn and day's bright birth! Morning dew with soft fire ghstens GemHke on the breast of earth. And the lark, with glad unrest, Sings, and soars from out his nest: Heaven itself leans down and listens!
Flower of noon and silence green!
Sunlight through warm shadows gleaming
Fills the air with amber sheen.
In still pools are mirrored fair
Butterflies afloat in air.
Woods and fields lie softly dreaming!
Flower of twilight, mystic, white! Golden gleam at heart of thee With faint fragrance fills the night. Starlight dawns in purple deeps, And the moon, uprising, steeps All the world in reverie.
M,^^ The
-X
^zrvL-f-l
Boston Cooking-School Magazine
Vol. XV
JUXE-JULY, 19 lo O
Garden Seats
By Marv H. Xorthend
Xo. 1
THE charm of a garden lies not so much in its floral equipment as in the selection and arrangement of its accessories. Today ornaments are recognized as essential to the pro- per display of flowers and shrubs, and a garden that lacks these necessary adjuncts is much as a house devoid of artistic embellishments.
In America a proper appreciation of the value of garden furnishings has never been as evident as in foreign countries, and, in fact, it is only in recent years that ornaments have been employed in gardens to any great ex- tent. The ancient Greeks and Romans were cognizant of their worth, as is evident from the manner in which they embellished their floral spaces with bridges, fountains, statues, seats, urns, etc., and the French, too, were even appreciative of their decorative quali- ties, as is attested by the adornment of the famous gardens of Versailles and the Tuilleries. which, unfortunately, were shorn of their lovely accessories at the time the English type of garden came in voo:ue.
Many of the more modem flower plots also showed, in their arrangement, a proper regard for these essentials, but of late years scant heed has been given garden furnishings, and, in conse- quence, much of the old-time charm has been lost.
This is particularly true of the Ameri- can type of garden, and, until the last few years, when the possibilities for enjoyment to be derived from flower plots, equipped with attractive acces- sories, begun to be realized, numerous splendid opportunities for develop- ment were neglected. Probably the adoption of the formal Itahan type of garden had much to do with the bringing about of this happy change, but, at all events, garden furnishings 'are today extensively employed, and their use tends to increase the attract- iveness of the flower plot, no matter how small or extensive it may be.
Of all garden furnishings, seats are, perhaps, the most important. They not only afford a resting place for tired bodies, but they also frequently pos- sess artistic qualities quite distinct from
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
A Stoxe Seat at Pride's Crossing
their importance in marking axes, end- ing walks, and relieving barren spaces, that are most valuable.
The position the seat occupies in the garden is quite as important as the seat itself, and while, of course, there is much less chance of wrong placing in a garden where positions are fixed b}^ formality than in a picturesque scheme of unmarked distinctiveness of type, where they must be so placed as to give the impression of inevitableness, still care must be exercised in the placing, in either case.
Frequently the position of a seat is determined by the view which one may obtain while resting upon it, and while in some cases this plan works out to good advantage, provided the seat hap- pens to fit in as a part of a pleasing com- position, still, as a rule, it should have a more obvious justification than mere view to warrant its placement.
Of all materials for garden seats, stone undoubtedly is the best, for not only is it durable, but the best qualities permit of carving, and thus it can be made as decorative as desired. Also, there is a worthiness about stone which
cast cement cannot approach, and to many minds a seat of rough stone, that the ax has never touched, is eminently more desirable than one of cement, evenly finished.
Limestones and marbles are com- monly used for seats, but there are several other stones of more pleasing color and texture w^hich could be used with better effect. The pink granites look well, and the black, red, and green slates are of pleasing qualities, the red being particularly effective when streaked with another color. The Quincy granites should never be em- ployed, for their texture is cold looking and uninteresting, and the weather, instead of softening their colors, seems to render them more dismal.
Our first and second illustrations are examples of the better quality of stone, finely carved. Both are placed be- side tree trunks, and both pleasantly relieve the monotony of surrounding green. The second, however, is the more pleasing of the two, for its simple slab top, supported by carved standards, is much more in keeping with the seat idea than the elaborately finished back and side pieces of the first named, which savors too much of the chair form, which is rarely attractive in stone.
A seat of this type, however, to be entirely comfortable, should be placed against a wall to afford some support to one's back.
Another Stone Seat
GARDEN SEATS
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In Mrs. Phillips' Garden, North Beverly
Of course, where, as in the case illus- trated, it is only one of several seats in the floral space, it is not necessary to so place it, but if, as it frequently hap- pens, it marks the only resting spot in the garden, then it should be arranged to provide the greatest comfort possible, and surely a seat on which one cannot lounge is not conducive to enjoyment for more than a few moments at a time.
There is another fault about most garden seats of stone, and that is that they are built too high. Thirteen inches is usually high enough for most people, and if additional height is re- quired, the bench can be placed on a stone platform, which is not only pleas- anter for one's feet than grass or gravel, but also adds considerable to the archi- tectural effect. In summer the stone seat needs cushions, if it is used to any great extent, and in winter it should be covered with narrow slats arranged close together.
There are two points to remember in the employment of seats of carved stone; first, that they must not be too elaborate to harmonize with the gar- dens which they are meant to grace, and second, that they must conform with the other ornaments used. A seat of elaborate finish used in conjunction with a fountain, sun-dial or other ac-
cessory of simple design, is ridiculous, and it is better to omit it than to have it cause such incongruity.
If stone be too expensive, use wood, but let it be used as wood, and not as stone. When a pretty rustic effect is desired, cedar and locust, with the bark
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Garden of Ferns
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
Wooden Garden Seats
left on, can be used to good advantage, and cypress also makes a satisfactory garden seat and, if painted and well cared for each season, will do service for a number of years. Sometimes a good result of a stone type is obtained in wood, as is shown in the illustration. Wooden seats with roofs are now made to some extent in this country, and most attractive they are when well placed against a background of trees or shrubbery. The roof affords protec-
tion from the summer sun, and in the winter acts as a windbreak, and then. too, it assures freedom from the insects which sometimes drop from the leafy tangle of an arbor.
Garden seats in their type and ar- rangement present almost limitless possibilities, and there is no garden plot, however small, which does not include some nook that can be im- proved by the placement of a seat of simple design.
June
Bv Ruth Raymond
Let others laud the winter's snows.
Let others tell of spring's delight.
But give to me June's fragrant rose
That in the early morning blows
All fresh and pure with dewdrops bright.
Let others praise the autumn's brown And gold of sheaves that grace the year, But give to me June's crimson crown Of cherries sweet that tumble down, Lo at mv feet, a wealth of cheer.
O flowery June! O fruitful June! The bride's delight, the maiden's choice, AVhen earth and sea and sky atune Bring to each heart some longed-for boon, While weary ones again rejoice.
SOME DESSERTS FOR JUNE
Strawberry Tarts ( See page 33 )
Strawberry axd Pineapple Fa:
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Strawberries ix Orange Shell Strawberries ix Loxg-Stemmed Glass
Psychology of Clothes
Discussed by iho Young Pliilosophors
B\- jc^sephine Page Wright
I
"T would take a gallon oi sherbet and an eleetrie fan to overcome the effect of that costume." gasped the Scientist.
The Young Philosphers ran to the window to see what had provoked the Scientist to an inaccurate statement of a proposition. On the opposite side of the street strutted a young woman, dressed in red from the tip of her suede sHpper to the tulle of her lar^e picture hat.
"Some one has told her red is be- coming to her, and now she wears it, regardless of time or circumstance," commented the Cynic. "A gown like that, however, on an August day is positively an act of cruelty to specta- tors."
"I wonder," mused the Sage, "if any of us fully realize the effect upon others of the garments we wear."
"We had a striking example of it in our home last winter," conhnned the Epicurean. "My sister and I were made to wear colored woolen dresses during winter, from the time we could tirst walk. Nevertheless avc have always liked dainty garments, and when my sister's tirst baby came, eighteen months ago. we determined to keep it in white until it was old enough to go to school. One cold day my father found the baby toddling about the house in a white dimity dress. He at once took my sister to task for clothing the child improperly. We explained to him that a white woolen slip beneath the outer garment kept the child from feeling cold. ' But it doesn't keep me from feeling cold when I see her!' he stormed. And it didn't. He insists that he suffered acutely from the cold every time he saw the little one in its hlm\- frock."
"I asked a school-teacher once," said the Sage, "whether the garments her pupils wore in any way affected their scholarship. She replied ^^■ithout hesitation that they did and that, moreover, the garments which she wore aff'ected their scholarship. She explained that she had one particularly becoming and attractive go^^^l, which she wore during tests or examinations. This change of costume not only the more observing in the class seemed to notice, but even the dullest felt it and profited by it. This same teacher cited the case of a young girl who had entered a class half clad, disheveled and dirty. Her books were soiled, secondhand ones which she had begged from others. She was sullen and showed little interest in her studies or her classmates. Suddenly orphaned, this child Avas adopted by a benevolent organization, Avhich purchased new books for her and clothed her in gar- ments, not only new and comfortable, but attractive and becoming. With the new clothing she donned came a new interest in life, a new self-respect, and she is rapidly becoming oiie of the most promising pupils in her grade. ^Mothers should study this subject of the psychology of clothes."
"Mothers and ^A-ives," added the Cynic. " Xot every wife realizes that the Avork of the day for her husband is often made easier or marred by the gown in which she greets him at his breakfast table."
"That is true." agi'ced the Sage. "A man sometimes makes the mistake of telling his wife that she looks well in a boudoir jacket. Thereupon she forms the habit of wearing one to the breakfast table. And that is all right during the honeymoon, perhaps. But
PSYCHOLOGY OF CLOTHES
9
when a man sits down to a belated breakfast, with school children clamor- ing for attention, and home duties fairly shrieking from nursery and kitchen, he feels vaguely, although he does not analyze the emotion, that there is something inadequate about the appearance of the woman who faces him, my lady of the dressing sacque."
"But a man would not wish his wife to dress like a nursery maid," pro- tested the Epicurean.
"Why not?" demanded the Sage. "Why not, at least, while she is per- forming the duties of one? W^hat could be more suitable, serviceable or becoming than a plain cotton house- gown and spotless white apron? Our educated helpers and trained nurses have changed this same costume from a badge of servitude to an insignia of rank. Women are prone to believe that man has no intuition, that he is not susceptible to psychical influence. She has believed it many times to her own undoing. A man is annoyed, if he finds his wife working about the kitchen in a discarded dinner dress; he is Ukewise annoyed, if she comes to his dinner table looking like a servant. Nevertheless he may be and probably is quite ignorant of the cause of his annoyance."
"That is because man for generations has been the business head and the warrior of the family," expounded the Scientist. "He understands the methods and the necessities of proper equip- ment. He would not go shooting for duck with an elephant gun."
"At the same time woman is the more punctilious about the conven-
tionalities of dress," contended the Epicurean.
"But conventionalities are many times the creatures of her own caprice," said the Cynic, "and are not often brought into being by the laws of proper equipment. Where convention- alities fail to coincide with these laws, man rebels and often, too often woman submits."
"Here is a case in point," laughed the Sage. "I know a young matron who is extremely fastidious about the proprieties of dress. She is never seen at a formal dinner or at the opera save in evening gown. Her street costumes are faultless. But I have seen her working about her kitchen in a silk kimona and torn silk skirt. She felt, moreover, that she was maintaining the dignity of her position."
" I suppose none of you would believe me, if I told you of the wonderful effect upon the health which different garments may have," timidly ventured the Mental Healer.
"Whether we accept your philosophy as a whole or not," politely returned the Cynic, "we are all willing to con- cede that a woman feels no better than she looks. Personally I have cured more than a headache with a bath and a complete change of garment."
"And, of course," admitted the Scientist, "we are beginning to learn the effect which colors have upon the mind and the emotions of man. We know that red — "
"But that is the X, Y, Z of the subject. Start our wives and mothers at the A, B, C of it and they make their own progress," concluded the Sage.
-To Mother's Apron
Here's to mother's apron,
The gingham one, with strings ; Here's to all the household joy
The wearing of it brings.
Here's to all that apron does
With little mother in it! I cannot say enough in praise,
And so I won't begin it.
From "The Valley Farmer.'
How Much Shall We Spend For Food?
By May Ellis Nichols
THE question "How Little Can We Spend for Food?" has been con- sidered over and over again, and especially during the time of financial stress has been of the greatest interest to the housewife. Undoubtedly the cost of food is the item of household ex- pense that varies most in different fami- lies, and consequently the item that can be modified most easily, hence the in- terest in the question of how little is needed to run a satisfactory table. But the question," How Much Shall We Spend for Food? " is quite different. It is an ethical rather than an economic question, and as such is worthy our careful consideration.
Granting absolute freedom in the use of money,, how is one to decide, not how small an amount she can get along with, but how much she will be justified in spending upon food for her famil}'. Or is it necessary for her to decide at all ? Shall she buy the food that she needs and wishes without regard to cost? That is the method often employed. Only last week a friend informed me — in a way that made me feel that she considered figuring on the cost of food penurious — that she had never at- tempted to run her table on a certain amount. She had always bought the things that she knew the family liked without regard to cost.
' ' I never know how much my table bills are going to be till the}^ come in," she concluded.
"Yes," I answered, "but do you buy your clothes in the same way? Did you know" how much you were to pay for your beautiful new cloak before it came home?"
The reply was prompt. "How ri- diculous! Of course I did. I never buy a garment without knowing its price. If I cannot afford a hundred-
dollar coat, I get one for fifty dollars, or thirty-five, or for twenty-five. But food is different. We must eat."
True, we must eat, but health and even happiness do not depend on our eating squabs and sweetbreads, much less strawberries in January. Spring chicken may be a common arti- cle of food in one family and an inex- cusable luxury in another, while even chops and beefsteak may be extrava- gances in a third.
"M}^ family insist on having grape- fruit for breakfast every morning," groaned my friend who is trying to live within her income. Grape-fruit is de- licious and w^holesome, so if a family can afford it and want it, it should be on their table every morning, but oranges are nearly as good, baked apples just as wholesome, and prunes are the most digestible of fruits, as wit- nessed by the fact that they are almost the first to be given babies.
I once confided to m}^ grocer's wife, who w^as assisting her husband on Satur- day morning, that I could not aft'ord a certain tempting titbit, for if I did, I should go over my table allowance. She looked interested and, at last, hesi- tatingly asked if I minded telHng her how much my allowance was. We each catered, as it happened, for the same number — five. I named the amount, which while not large was ample to pro- vide a table that seemed to please and satisfy my own family. Her curiosity turned to surprise. "Why," she said, "rny own table never costs less than thirty-six dollars a week, and, of course, all the fruit, vegetables and dry gro- ceries are bought at wholesale."
The grocer lived over his store; he worked early and late to provide an in- come for his family; his eldest daughter kept his books; his wife did the house-
10
EXPERTS
11
work and "helped out" in the store Saturday mornings; and yet they spent more than .seven dollars per person for food each week. Any woman who has made a little study of food values and the cost of food knows that for a family so situated that amount is folly, almost sin. But what of the wife of a man on a five thousand dollar salary who spends the same amount? Is she any wiser? In short, how is one to know how much she has a right to spend for food ?
To begin with, every family should have enough good wholesome food to keep up strength in the adult members of the family and to furnish material for the growth of the children.
In addition, the food should be varied enough to make it palatable. That much expenditure is a necessity. If the family income allows, more delicate but not less nourishing food may be sub- stituted, as the finer cuts and varieties of meat, some of the hothouse vege- tables, more fruit and relishes of differ- ent sorts. If there is no reason why the housewife should limit the amount she spends for food, she will, of course, make her table as dainty as possible, freely using the hothouse products and imported delicacies, which belong with jewels, Oriental rugs and Old Masters. But even then the .wise woman will know what is a reasonable amount to spend for the results she expects, and will keep within it. If she does not insist on adequate returns for her money, she will encourage waste in her
domestics and dishonesty in her trade folk.
The real test of how much one can afford to spend for food, then, is how much can be used beyond what is ab- solutely necessary without encroaching on the funds that should be used for other purposes. "What is necessary," being understood to mean the food that would be sufficient to keep up strength and growth, in distinction from what is desired, as illustrated by my friend's grape-fruit. Exactly what this sum shall be, every housewife, who ear- nestly wishes to do her duty by her family, must discover for herself. It may be fifty per cent, it may be twenty- five, it may be only ten, but she must know how much it is and keep within it, if she is to make a wise distribution of the funds at her disposal.
The problem is really one in simple proportion. What can the family af- ford in other things ? For example, my grocer's family had a table that should have presupposed a house to them- selves, attractive furniture, books and periodicals, the young daughter in school, instead of behind her father's- desk, and some assistance in the home for the overworked mother.
The housewife will make no mistake who takes care that a nice proportion is maintained. If she makes sure that charity, art, books, hospitality, travel, home decoration, yes, and clothes, all have due consideration, she will be able to decide how much she can afford to spend for food.
Experts
By Kate Gannett Wells
SOCIAL research, social welfare, expert service and the economic woman are the elect phrases by which today's activity is differentiated
from the unobtrusive, far-reaching, personal work of thirty years ago.
"Social research, forsooth, it's just inquisitiveness, I'm none of your busi-
12
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
ness!" exclaimed indignantly a woman, who was being subjected to a "ques- tionaire" in the interest of social re- form. To whom the philianthropist, pining for something to do, replied, *' Oh, but it's social welfare I am after."
"What's that ?" inquired the woman, "each of us knows best what we want; don't come it over us with fine words; and as for your expert service, it is just spoiling shopping and house- keeping. I went into a store run by trained salesladies and asked for a blue veil and the girl told me, oh, so politely, that I should get brown. 'Blue,' I repeated. 'Brown,' she smirked, as if she understood my wants better than I did. So as the floorwalker came along to inquire into the row, I told him I had asked for a blue veil and all his salesgirl had done was to say I ought to have a brown one. Then the little man had the impudence to remark, 'You're wearing brown, madam.' *Do you suppose I haven't got a blue suit, too? Have you a blue veil?' I asked him, real dignified. The girl showed me one and I walked off and went home to find the waitress wouldn't make the mayonnaise, because I had given her Italian oil when she had been trained to use French oil, and the dressmaker had cut my blue skirt the way she thought best instead of doing what I told her, and the nurse girl had used what she called her judgment in mixing the baby's food instead of doing as I had directed. I'm tired to death of experts who never do your way."
"Ah, madam," remarked the phi- lanthropist, "you are proving yourself to be the economic woman by the way you see into things."
"Economic fiddlesticks!" was re- torted. ' ' Woman was bom economical. She can do a lot more than just being an expert."
And I, a bystander, knew the woman was stating facts and the philanthropist seeing visions. I, myself, had been be- rated, because I had said research was
poor atonement for lack of sympathy; that tabular statements were partial un- truths, and questionaires were mora and intellectual vivisection; that the social welfare business usually carried a salary for those who worked at it; that experts were as futile as rules for good manners, and that the phrase, eco- nomic woman, was an insult to man, who is fast losing his chivalry because of it. Then, too, I had seen the pretty, vague enthusiasms of afternoon teas and knew it was so tiresome not to have enough to do, that social service had become a real honest kind of re- Hgion for this world, and that expert advice is unnecessary, as everybody, ex- cept one's self, knows best what one can do.
The trouble is we never know we have made mistakes until they are made, and that there need not have been so much preventive work, if we had been different. Some of us prefer to work along with Jack-of-all-trades' assistants rather than with "exacting helpers," whether they are the visitors who must remove their rings before they wash the breakfast dishes or the more effi- cient variety which insists on special brands of soap, flour, flavors, etc., in cookery. Others of us prefer, at least, "facultied assistants," even experts, that we may escape the worry of im- perfect details and have time for social welfare. And then a few of us today are still sufficiently meek to rest con- tent with Wesley's advice to his wife, "Be content to be a private and in- significant person, known and loved by God and me."
Somehow the attitude of those who try to live up to the significance of so- cial service irritates, because it is in such haste to present its facts and de- ductions, instead of waiting till oc- casion arrives. A striking instance of the love for exact fact in its bearing upon physical stature, with the quiet hoarding of such knowledge until chance brings it forward, is given in
XEATH SKIES OF JUXE
13
Professor Shaler's autobiography. At a certain dinner, a Mr. Coolidge was challenged regarding his statement of the average height of a Chinaman. "I know it is so," he replied, "because I saw a hundred of them beheaded and I measured them afterwards." The story w^as corroborated by one who saw Coolidge do it.
A very different illustration of exact research into facts and feelings, but with no announcement of categories, ques- tionaires and tabular statements, is a little book by Jane Addams, called "The Spirit of Youth." It is not written as by an expert, but simply as by one who loves youth and who finds in its peccadillos the results of natural, unguided, early years. How she pleads for cultivation of the imagi- nation among the children of the poor, that they may enjoy good acting more
than live-cent shows! How tenderly she traces the ''moral fatigue" of the youthful poor to results arising from being compelled to assume responsi- bilities too early in life! The book is filled w^ith sympathetic penetration into the follies and quibbles of boys and girls who, finding there is no fun in the even- ings at home, hunt for it outside. If we could have her winning sincerity in persuasion, there would be fewer phrases as summaries of activities.
Why need the spirit be labeled? Ten years hence today's phrases will have yielded to others. Each, in turn, by becoming historical, is a glimpse into past social activities and a guide- post to future action. And all the time the spirit that animated the past, as it does the ever present, is the spirit of youth, of enjoyment and love and sympathy.
* Neath Skies of June
Bv Agnes Lockhart Hughes
Under the apple trees drifts of white, In the meadow gleam kingcups, gold,
And down by the stile kneels a Marguerite pale, Smiling up at a sunflower bold.
There's the drone of a bee, midst the grasses lush
That flash forth their sabers green, And sweet little clovers in ruffled frocks
Peep coy through their fragrant screen.
The brook croons a lullaby, soft and low, A robin trills forth, loud and long.
While ever\'where borne on the perfumed air Are merriment, laughter and song.
A purple-flushed pansy, quite deep in thought, Leans o'er the pearl-tossed stream,
And under the waving dew-kissed ferns The scented violets dream
With a soft little swish of her silken leaves,
A rosebud opens her heart. And a butterfly, poised on her petals pink,
Vows from her never to part.
There's a song, — there's a sigh, — a laugh and a tear.
But love sings its merry rune, While the butterfly kisses his amorous rose
'Xeath the turquoise skies of June
(P==^^^:.Si^^^£-.::iC:=n)
The Neighborly Girls Find the Open Sesame
By Lee McCrae
BESS MITCHELL had been the center of attraction at the last two meetings of the Neighborly Club. It seemed so interesting to have a member "return alive" from a whole six months' stay on the western plains. Besides, Bess was a famous story- teller, and one who always sees the comic wherever she goes. This after- noon, however, she began in a ver}^ final way:
"To sum it all up, girls, I think I had such a good time, because I went expecting to have it, to make the most of things and to like the people."
"Passports everywhere, every time, and for everybody," commented Mar- garet Mills, with a wise nod of her head.
"Yes, and especially true in the West," Bess went on. "You see the majority of people in that region are there to build their fortunes; the farm and business have not been inherited, as in older sections, and each man has a vital interest — an intense concern for their "boom," the crop prospects, etc. Even the women and children share the sense of responsibility for the town's progress and pride them- selves upon every advantage it pos- sesses. To speak slightingly or even patronizingly of it is to offend mortally every inhabitant.
"Fortunately, I went with rosy glasses, expressed my likes freely and suppressed my dislikes. As a result, the}^ flocked around me until I felt like the 'queen of the May.' Really I owe my good time chiefly to what Jo calls the * habit of Uking things.' "
"That is all right, and it is certainly your side of the matter," replied Louise Hargrove. "But I can see their side, from a little experience I had only yesterday. We had two little country cousins come to visit us.
They were only eleven and thirteen years old, and we knew perfectly well that they had never been in a city of any size before, and that lots of things would be new and strange to them; so I anticipated genuine delight in taking them about. But do you know, they were so afraid of appearing green that they would not show pleasure or sur- prise at anything. I took them to see the finest houses, to the Zoo, to the top of the Monument, through the big stores, ever3rwhere; yet not one single exclamation escaped them. I knew they were seeing it all — their quick eyes showed that they were keenly alive and appreciative — but from what little they said you would have thought them the most blase of travelers. It was so disappointing! I would rather have had them act green as gourds!
"So," Bess, I see plainly that it was your expressions of delight that charmed those westerners. It not only pays to like things, as you say show that you like them."
"Wise conclusion No. 2,'^' '' " '^^e Norton, clapping her hand:, fashion among these merry* '♦'"••-'libors. * ' It has always struck me as" extremely bad manners as well as bad policy for one to express dislikes — except oc- casionally," she added.
"Or semi-occasionally," supple- mented Bess. "But really, girls, it was not premeditated but wholly spontaneous. I had not thought about it until there was a reception given for several of us newcomers, (And , by the way, the elaborateness and the style there would have surprised you.)
"Among the guests of honor was the sister of the town's one druggist, a pretty girl who had come out from Cincinnati for a month's visit. That
14
THE NEIGHBORLY GIRLS FIND THE OPEN SESAME
15
evening she acted so toploftical; be- littled everything western, and even compared the new burg with old Cin- cinnati. It was ridiculous — or would have been, if we had not been too dis- gusted to see the funny side. But I did laugh to see how the people dropped her. Before the evening was out she was having a lonesome time, and I was told that not a soul called on her. Not another invitation did she get, and when she left there was no mention of the fact in the weekly paper, though its editor fairly beat the bushes for news. She showed me how not to act! "
"Green — if she had been brought up in a city," commented Zoe.
"She certainly lacked common cour- tesy— "
"And hadn't a scintilla of culture!" cried Cora. "For I think culture means adaptability as much as any- thing. A cultured person makes every one feel at ease, and appears herself at ease, everywhere and under all conditions. On the other hand, a per- son who looks at the world through a crack in the fence — as it were — is always pessimistic, prejudiced and stub- born-piinded."
'-'Axid say," broke in the neighbor cuixed up among the sofa cushions, "r^nr,-..,vou think all this applies partic- \ people moving from one town to a|ip,i cjr, or rather from one section to another? They go of their own volition — as a rule — to better their own condition; yet so many talk and act as if they were conferring a per- sonal favor on the new community by coming into it. They criticise right and left, constantly referring to the old home as a veritable Eden. I often feel like asking such what they did to get sent out of Paradise."
"Oh, that is because they are home- sick. You are too hard on them," protested Bess.
"Well, making due allowances for homesickness, you know very well, Bess, that there are people that simply
do not try or want to like things. They aggravate their troubles and ex- aggerate the disagreeable in their sur- roundings until the old residenters feel as uncomfortable as possible, and their relations become strained or severed entirely. Instead, they ought to go in exactly the spirit you went, seeing the cheerful, better side, and using a little Christian Science — or rather Christian charity — on whatever they dislike. I am so tired of complaints and criticisms!"
Loud "amens" greeted this, show- ing that the Club was of one mind here, at least.
"Another thing about it," continued the voice among the cushions, "if the movers, loving the old home, go reluc- tantly, because of circumstances, they should consider themselves its repre- sentatives in the new section. Un- doubtedly a western person coming East is looked upon as a type of that region, and he or she should feel that, in a limited sense, the reputation of their beloved West is at stake. Some do feel that responsibility, but I wish all movers did."
"Hear me! Surely as a minister's daughter, with four moves to my credit, I am entitled to the floor." EUzabeth sprung to her feet enthusiastically. "This is strictly confidential, but we've never moved that I haven't shed tears and at the same time shaken hands with myself. You see there are al- ways some people and some things it breaks one's heart to leave, and also some people and some things you are delighted to get away from.
"Besides, we have found that God is mighty impartial to places, putting nice folks everywhere (sandwiched in with the other kind), and that every climate and section has its good and bad conditions. The scales do not al- ways hang as evenly, but what's the use in growling?"
"Hurrah for the minister's daughter! Her father's own beautiful echo,"
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
exclaimed Margaret, with real admira- tion in her tone. "I firmly believe that optimism and the art of saying gracious things ought to be a part of our educations, especially as women. The southern people have the latter art cultivated to a degree. Indeed, it is a large factor in the 'southern hospital- ity' you hear so much about. In the little visit I made in Georgia they had me so flattered and happy I had to come home to — -to cool off."
"But don't so many 'gracious re- marks' make you suspect their sin- cerity?" asked Cora,
"O, Co, don't look for motives! It's like pulling a rose to pieces to examine its stem."
At this there was vigorous clap-
ping, and as it subsided Bess ex- claimed:
"Let me finish my summary! It not only pays to like people and to show it, but to pretend to like them whether you do or not — not saying anything untruthful, but being pleasant to all, as is one's Christian duty, enjoined by Him who said, 'Love your enemies.' The delicate art of saying nice things is well worth all our study, dears. To abstain from making comparisons, to cease disagreeable criticism and voice only kindly thoughts — isn't this wo- man's part in the complex medley we call life in the twentieth century ? ' '
"Here's the tea!" cried the hostess. "Let's drink a toast to Bess and her ideals!"
The Bridewell Cake
By Madeline Burrage
MISS MEHITABLE GREEN looked with unseeing eyes out upon the dreary wet line of trees that bordered Stony Brook pasture. Her thin hands were clenched tightly in her lap and her face was set.
"She did it to spite me! I'll pay her back! I'll — I'll — " Miss Mehita- ble paused as if to consider well Avhat might be the most terrible punishment that she could inflict upon her neighbor. "I'll get the recipe for the Bridewell cake! I'll get it, even if my mother, an' her mother before her, failed. Oh, I'll pay her back!"
In the Httle room all was still save for the singing of the tiny kettle and the ticking of the clock in the comer. Miss ]\Iehitable was thinking hard. How could she do it ? The attempt had failed so many times. How closely the Bridewells had guarded the recipe of their famous cake, despite the many
efforts to beg, borrow or steal the coveted treasure. Well, she would get it by hook or by crook. Spiteful thing! Sarah Bridewell should pay for her meanness! The thin hands clenched themselves more tightly than ever and Mehitable Green's forehead puckered itself into innumerable fine wrinkles.
In her own kitchen across the road, Sarah Bridewell was also sitting, lost in thought.
"Hetty's got such a temper," she sighed to herself. ' ' She flies off the han- dle, as Ma used to say, at the least thing. How should I know that the calico I bought for my new dress this mornin' was the pattern she wanted, and that I'd got all there was left? She says she told me all about it, but I don't seem to recollect. I don't care nothin' about that particular piece, except that after she was so mean an'
THE BRIDEWELL CAKE
17
all, I just won't give it up to her! I guess she'll get over it, though."
Rising, she went into the little pantry to begin preparations for her meager tea. As she did so her eye fell on a tiny mirror hanging on the wall. Her hand instinctively went to fasten a stray lock that in some way had escaped from the prim knot into which her thin gray hair was tightly drawn.
"I wonder what Ma ever hung that glass in here for? Goodness knows, the Bridewells ain't never been any- thing on looks. Sometimes I think I'll take it down, but I kind o' hate to, it's been there so long." She stepped a little closer. "Well, I declare, I never noticed you could see so much of that old clump of syringa right in this mirror. Sarah Bridewell," she re- marked severely, a few moments later, "quit lookin' at yourself in the glass. You're nothin' but a homely old maid."
With this severe criticism she turned away and busied herself with the little teapot.
That night Mehitable Green lay awake for long hours, planning for the earUest possible moment when she might put her plan into execution. Suddenly the thought came to her.
."She'll make it tomorrow for the Minister's Social," she said aloud, tri- umphantly. "Oh, I must get it I I must! But how'll I do it? I can't go over an' sit with her while she makes it. Mother tried that with old Mis Bridewell an' I remember she put her out. How mad she was! If I could only hide somewhere. But there ain't any place, for I know Sarah Bridewell's pantry as well as I do my own, an' I'm too big to squat down behind the sugar barrel." She laughed scornfully to herself. "An' Sarah would see me, if I stood out- side the window, for there ain't any- thing to get behind. Why, yes, there is, too! The old s^^ringa where w^e used to play dolls! I'll do it! I'll hide in
them bushes, an' then she'll never see me! Oh, I'll pay her back!"
The next morning both Sarah Bride- well and her enemy rose early. The one great event of the year, the Minister's Social, was to be held that evening. All the good ladies of the village an- nually contributed good things and there was much rivalry as to who should produce the most delicious dainty.
Needless to say, the Bridewell cake always figured at these occasions and was a cause of great jealousy, for it had always held the much-coveted "first place."
It had cost Sarah Bridewell a great deal of careful planning to be able to make the cake this time, for it was a very expensive one for her. The poor little lady had hard work to make both ends meet with only ordinary expendi- tures, and at that time of year prices were unusually high. However, it was a necessity to preserve the honor of the Bridewells and so she had given up her new spring bonnet, although she had worn the old one for at least eight years and it was getting a trifle shabby.
"The Bridewell cake has got to be at the social," she told herself, sternly, "and you're too old to care about a bonnet, Sarah! "
Immediately after breakfast Miss Bridewell repaired to her pantry and Mehitable Green stole cautiously to her hiding place. It seemed centuries from the time when she slipped from her kitchen door to the time when she ar- rived at the syringa bushes. Her foot- steps echoed loudly, as they never had done before. Even the very robins ap- peared to cry, "Sa-rah! Het-t}^!" as if to warn the former of the thief's ap- proach. Out in the yard a rooster crowed. Miss Mehitable started vio- lently and little chills ran up and down her spine, for to her the innocent bird seemed to say, "Where's the Bridewell ca-a-ke?"
xA.t last she gained shelter, and,
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
crouching down, waited impatiently for the preparation of the famous cake.
It was not a comfortable place. Me- hitable grew cramped and cold ; her foot went to sleep and caused her untold agonies. But all her sufferings were forgotten, when Sarah Bridewell ap- peared with a basket of eggs.
Slowly and methodically she counted them out.
"A dozen eggs," whispered Mehita- ble Green, her e3'es sparkling.
Next, putting aside the eggs, Sarah began to weigh butter and sugar.
Miss Mehitable repeated each amount under her breath, in order that nothing should be forgotten.
Suddenly the little song that Sarah Bridewell had been humming died on her Hps. The tin}^ mirror had caught her eye. What was that she saw^r It was moving! She stepped nearer to the glass as if to look at her own face and stealthily peered into its depths.
It w^as — it was — Mehitable Green spying on her to get her recipe !
Her first impulse was to rush and drag Hetty from her hiding place, but she refrained.
She would play with her mouse I She w^ould punish Hetty Green! She should see!
"Vain old thing," said Mehitable to herself in the syringa, "she hasn't anything to boast of in the wa}' of looks! "
To all outward intents and purposes Sarah Bridew^ell went back to her cake- making quietly, but her heart beat suftocatingl}'.
If she could only change it enough! Hetty would never know. But it would be so expensive, for she would have to make two cakes now. She would have to go without meat for at least two or three months. She shut her lips firmly. "Sarah, a^ou don^t need meat. 'Tain't as if you were fat! Do you hear me?"
"Let me see," said Sarah Bridewell aloud, "eight eggs." To herself she
added hastih^ "That's four less; it ought to be about right." Then aloud again, "Add to the creamed butter and sugar, — and put in a cup an' a half of milk," suiting the action to the words.
Silently she hoped that the cake might not appear too eccentric in Hetty's eyes. It certainly seemed queer to her.
On she went, sometimes putting in more of an ingredient, sometimes less, as her fancy dictated. It was exciting work. Sarah Bridewell's face grew flushed and her lips twitched.
"My, I wonder what makes, her so nervous," remarked Hetty in the syringa bushes. "Guess she must be gettin' old. Let me see, she must be fifty-four or five."
It was a singular cake that was made that day in the Bridewell kitchen, but Mehitable Green congratulated herself on having gotten the true recipe at last.
What a stir it would make in the village! Oh, it w^ould be glorious!
Her thoughts were interrupted there. What was Sarah Bridewell saving?
"Kitty," she spoke to the tortoise- shell cat curled up in the comer, "Ivitty, I'd like to tell Mehitable Green just w^hat I think of her. She is a mean, spiteful old woman; an', Kitty. I'm right glad I got her old calico, an' I'd do it again, too, if I got the chance! "
At this declaration Hetty nearly sprang from her hiding place to denounce Sarah Bridewell and her cake, but on second thought she remained quiet. Little did she know Sarah was glory- ing in her power !
"I'll pa}^ her back," breathed Me- hitable. "Oh, won't it be fine when there are two Bridewell cakes at the social tonight!"
The moment that Sarah disappeared into the kitchen with the cake, Me- hitable Green hastened from her re- treat, repeating the precious recipe all the wav home.
REXDERIXG CHEESE DIGESTIBLE
19
Once there she set about making the loaf, but when it was done, to her as- tonishment, it was not the Bridewell cake. She tasted and stared, and stared and tasted. It was rather good, but it was not the cake.
"Sarah's losin' her mind," she said finally, with con-sdction, "she's for- gotten the recipe. My, ain't that awful!"
In her own little kitchen opposite, Sarah Bridewell sat with her cat in her lap.
"I'U never take that mirror down." she said slowly.
Then she rose with decision and half an hour later a real Bridewell cake was cooling by the kitchen window, where, as Sarah remarked, there weren't any bushes.
That night all Elmville went to the social. Mehitable Green was a httle late and as she came into the room a clear voice floated to her, "Just a Httle more of that delicious Bridewell cake, please." She pressed forward, her eyes shining with excitement.
There must be some mistake, for did she not know that tonight there was no such cake?
But what was this? People were exclaiming, as they always did, how good it was and how they longed for the recipe; and there, before her very eyes, was all that remained of the handsome loaf.
And then, as she stared and stared, she heard a taunting voice at her elbow, "You're just a Httle too big for them syringa bushes. Hettyl"
Rendering Cheese Digestible
Bv Mrs. A. P. Owens
ALL the nourishing elements in a gallon of milk are represented in a pound of cheese. Beef has less than half the food value of cheese, which may be said to contain a third, each, of water, fat and proteid. A pound of cheese yields three times the energy in a pound of beef. Such are the esti- mates of conservative writers. Some figures go much higher. When one adds to these considerations the fact that a pound of cheese can be obtained at about one-third the cost of three pounds of beefsteak, which is its nutritive equivalent, it is at once e^^ident that we possess in cheese a most economical substitute for meat.
But cheese is not an article of diet easily dealt with by deHcate digestions, for the fat forms a waterproof coating, which prevents access of the digestive
juices to the casein. The larger the lumps of cheese which enter the stomach, the slower will this access be. Hence the importance, often urged, of thoroughly chewing every mouthful eaten. Proper mastication is made the easier by grating before cooking, 3'et, even when grated and reduced to the finest possible particles by the teeth, this splendid food proves indigestible to nineteen people out of twenty. However, an able writer on the chemis- try of cookery, Mattieu WilHams, has pointed out a way of preparing cheese which renders it perfectly digestible, as I, a confirmed dyspeptic, whose stomach revolts at so innocent a thing as a sweet cracker, can testify, and my experience has been dupHcated in the households of numerous friends. This method is very simple, the cheese being nearly dissolved by the addition of bicarbonate of potash. Casein forms
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
soluble compounds with alkalies. Bi- carbonate of potash is an alkali, harm- less as another of more common use, bicarbonate of soda, if used in the right quantities; and it supplies the potash so necessary to health, and unavoid- ably eliminated in cheese making, not only rendering the cheese digestible, but neutralizing the fatty acids so irritating to the sensitive lining of the stomach. It may be had at about ten cents an ounce. From a quarter to half a teaspoonful is sufficient to nearly dissolve a quarter of a pound of cheese, if the latter be first grated or chopped into fragments.
By the addition of milk and eggs, a delicious and exceedingly nutritious pudding or fondu may be prepared, at small cost. "Full cream," or common "store" cheese contains rather more nutriment than parmesan, at less than half the price. Stilton, also, costing twice as much as the ordinary kind, is of the same food value. Of course, these considerations are of little interest to those who eat cheese merely as a relish at the end of a substantial meal,
with particular regard to its flavor. To others, who seek a cheap, efficient substitute for flesh food, they are vital. Swiss cheese, or cheese made from goat's milk, for example, is slightly more digestible than the cheaper kind. The common variety, too, is frequently adulterated with an animal fat, a product practically identical with oleo- margarine, unless one purchases the best grade, and the adulterant, wffiile quite as wholesome in one way as good butter, is rather more difficult of digestion.
Here is an excellent recipe for pre- paring the cheese: Grate a quarter of a pound ; add to a gill of milk in which has been dissolved a saltspoonful of pow- dered bicarbonate of potash, one of flour of mustard, one of white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and the sixth part of a nut- meg. Heat carefully until the cheese is completely dissolved. Add a cup of bread crumbs, and three eggs, well beaten, stirring the whole. Butter a shallow dish, pour in the mixture, and bake it until it is nearly solidified. Less eggs may be used, if desired.
The Passing of Pemmican
■ By John'^ Northern Hilliard
"T "TE who discovers a new dish," I I said Savarin, "does more for -»- -■- humanity than he who dis- covers a new star." The witty author of the "Physiologic du Gout" did not stop to think that navigation is the out- com.e of astronomy, and thus, by de- duction, America owes her existence to a star. But there is much truth in Savarin's saying, as much as in any epigram — perhaps more — for it is certain that man began eating when he was created, and it is a habit that he has indulged to this day.
If the discovery of a new dish is worthy of preservation in literature, shall not the passing of an old and well- established article of diet be fittingly commemorated ? Fifty years ago pem- mican was to the shifting population of the Northwest what flour is in the pres- ent day to the people of the civilized portions of the globe — the staple and most common food of the country. Today pemmican — even in the North- west territory — is as obsolete as auks and pterodactyls. There is a dried beef product called pemmican, but
THE PASSING OF PEMMICAN
21
it is no more pemmican than milk is wine. Pemmican passed with the buf- falo. Nevertheless the word is insep- arably linked in the history of our ■pioneer settlements, and for this reason it ought never to be expunged from our vocabulary.
Pemmican disappeared with the buf- falo. It is a Cree word meaning mix- ture, or something made with fat. It was composed of buffalo meat, dried in the sun and pounded fine, mixed with melted buffalo fat, and was sewn up in sacks made from the raw hide of the buffalo, with the ha;r outside. The Hudson Bay Company used to buy hundreds of bags of the dark, nutritious compound, annually, from the Indians for use at its trading posts scattered over the vast wilderness stretching from the Red River and Hudson Bay to the Rocky Mountains, and from the two Saskatchewans to the Arctic Sea, a region then designated Prince Ru- pert's Land.
Pemmican was a food that kept for years, which made it a necessity to the trappers and hunters employed by the Hudson Bay Company. It was also the Indian's staple food, for owing to the migratory habits of the buffalo herds fresh meat was not always obtain- able. The red man was an adept at preparing pemmican. After the hunt the meat was packed on the travois the bones broken and the marrow ex- tracted, and, loaded with the red spoil the hunting party returned to camp. Here the meat was cut into wide, thin sheets and hung upon pole frames in the sun and wind to dry. After a day or two these sheets were removed and spread upon the clean prairie grass, where, if the weather continued fair, they soon became as hard as shingles. They were then placed upon a hide threshing floor, with the sides elevated on short pegs to form a sort of basin, and beaten with flails or between
stones until the meat was reduced al- most to a powder. The strange thing was that if properl}^ handled the flesh seldom, if ever, became tainted, al- though in any other than the dry, pure atmosphere of the Northwest such a method of preparing the food would doubtless be impossible. Meanwhile the marrow and other choice fat had been rendered, and bags, some two by one and one-half feet, of raw buffalo hide, doubled over at the bottom and sewn up at the sides with the sinew of the animal, made for the reception of the pemmican. The melted fat was next poured over the shredded meat in the threshing basin, and the whole mixed to the consistency of paste. This was the pemmican. It was shov- eled into the sacks, pounded down, and, after the tops had been sewn up and the bags jumped upon to make them flat, the cooled pemmican packages were solid and almost as hard as so many boulders.
Such was pemmican. It was not an inviting dish, judged by modern stand- ards of food. The rules of cleanliness and hygiene were not scrupulously observed in its preparation. There was no attempt made at sterilization. And yet pemmican was a pretty good food, when one was hungry. Francis Parkman testifies, in his "Oregon Trail," to the nutritious properties of the food and also to its palatability to the person who is hungry. When the pioneer desired to eat pemmican he chopped a piece off with an ax, sack and all. If he had time, he cooked the adamantine morsel; if not, he ate it just as it was, hard and dry. It certainly was not a delicacy, but it served its purpose. The great North- west owes its advancement to pem- mican, for the sinewy men that fed on it redeemed a wilderness. It was a wholesome, hardy diet, the strong meat of men.
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
THE
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
MAGAZINE
OP
Culinary Science and Domestic Economics Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor
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ECONOMY
THE Cooking-School Maga- zine stands for wise economy always. Luxury, extravagance and wastefulness are ever the fore- runners of evil times ; while temperance, prudence and thrift lead to a uniform and a possible prosperity competency in old age.
Good health is the prime source of enjoyment and the main object in living. To secure this all other things should be made subordinate. Is not temperance in all things conducive to the highest degree of health? Hence, for manifold reasons, people are not taking kindly to a rise in the price of the necessities of life. Quite a different procedure had long been anticipated. In fact, to raise the price of anything,
at the present, seems an unwise policy, for people are in the mood of wanting to know the reason why.
Widespread healthfulness and the cost of food products are in close conse- quence. To produce a strong and vigorous race, food, plentiful, whole- some and cheap, is the first requisite. Truly wise economy can be practiced in the choice of food and in the pur- chase and serving of the same, but the supply cannot be stinted without the gravest consequences.
PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE TIME
WE believe in progress, in mak- ing the most of the present, and in looking forward to higher well-being in the future. Are there any who would wish to go back a century or two as a better era in which to begin life ? As Mary Johnston writes in the Atlantic Monthly, "for why should we continue to pour our minds into mediaeval molds, into eighteenth- century molds, long after candle molds have been discarded in favor of the electric light ? "
To us the conditions of life today, compared with those of even fifty years ago, seem simply amazing. Modern science has already done much and is des- tined to do still more for the betterment of the common welfare. This word, science, on account of its associations, may be more or less hateful to some. But ignore the use of the word and think and speak of experience or his- tory, which means the same thing, and we reach the same result. For history is only the partial narrative of man's experience and deeds from age to age. Relying upon man's" past experience and what he has wrought out by dint of thought, men and women today are able to build more surely for future weal. It is evident that we are here to live, to get as much as possible out of life's experience; and all agree that to live, now and here, the best one can.
EDITORIALS
23
is the fittest preparation for a life to come.
In the multitude of objects that in- terest us here, we take it that great comfort and satisfaction are to be found in making a single spot of earth more beautiful and attractive than it was before. Gardens, both in number and extent, are to be' among the future wonders of the world. Eden is not lost, but is to be won. Were people in general properly disposed, earth might be made a vast garden. Note what the village improvement society has done in places Hke Stockb ridge, Lenox, Northampton, Mass., Cornish, N.H., and many others in the land, to cultivate a taste for attractive and wholesome environments, and the in- ference is plain: no tow^n can afford to be without its village improvement society. From a prudent, aesthetic or otherwise point of view, its work is invaluable. Aside from the increased value of real estate that is sure to follow any considerable effort in this line, the gain to residents in health, comfort and daily enjoyment is be- yond measure.
We must say we are not fond of the antique; we like modem, up-to-date things; we would prefer rather to live in the twenty-first than in the eight- eenth century. But, as it is, we Vv411 try to get along as well as we can for a brief period in this the twentieth century.
THE LESSON OF THE COMET
WE are anxious to see our strange visitor in the heavens because it is an object we have never seen before and shall never see again. Our earth encircles the sun in three hundred and sixty-five days ; the comet now approaching nearest the sun at the rate of two million miles a day makes its elliptical circuit in seventy- six years. And yet we are taught that there are comets that become visible in the vi- cinity of our sun but once in a thousand
years. Do not these items indicate space incomprehensible by the human mind? How little do we really know about what is taking place within the limits of a single solar system. Was it not Kepler, an astronomer, who said the undevout astronomer is mad?
The contemplation of such occur- rences as these may well give us en- larged views of the universe, and at the same time reveal to us our own individ* ual insignificance. A sense of deep humility is the lesson impressed on us as we gaze upon these wondrous strangers in the sky. "When I con- sider thy heavens, the work of thy fin- gers, the moon and the stars, which thou hast ordained ; what is man, that thou art mindful of him?"
A deal of superstition has ever attended the appearance of comets.
"When beggars die there are no comets
seen; The heavens themselves blaze forth the death
of princes."
FASHIONS OLD AND NEW
IN a popular story book, an old-fash- ioned country tea-party is described with a catalog of the good things provided for the occasion. There were "jellied chicken and cold tongue; two kinds of jelly, red and yellow; whipped cream and lemon pie; and cherry pie and three kinds of cookies, and fruit cake, and yellow plum preserves; and pound cake and layer cake, and bis- cuits.' ' Imagination quails before such an array, and one wonders how the good people of old ever lived to the standard of threescore years and ten. Certainly extravagant hospitality is no new thing. When we hear constant criticism of the high living in modem homes, it is fair to remind ourselves of older customs. The influence of all modem teaching in domestic science is against the promiscuous lavishness of old-fashioned entertainment. With the same amount of time and thought,
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
a menu may be prepared, warranted against causing indigestion, yet afford- ing equal gastronomic satisfaction. Good taste and delicacy have replaced vulgar display and overfeeding. In modem culinary creations art conceals art so skillfully that however difficult the performance, the finished dish has the appearance of elegant simplicity. Best of all, a dish is valued not for its richness and cost, but for its dainti- ness and novelty. The part played by decoration and service is also much greater. On the whole, the contrast betw^een the old and the new is mxuch in favor of the latter, in the direction of practical common sense as well as artistic qualit}^ — -e. m. h.
AWFULLY BUSY
THE words are in ever3^body's mouth; it is the great American catch phrase. It is the excuse for all shortcomings, the reason for every mishap. On the whole, nobody seems to regret being awfully busy; it is a matter of satisfaction to be in the fashion. To have a day of leisure, or even an hour to oneself would argue that one was not at all in the swim. So there are many who multiply en- gagements foolishly with the mistaken idea that it is keeping up with the times to be awfully busy. With not a few it amounts almost to a disease to be always occupied, and the disease finally develops into nervous prostra- tion. It is a pity that we cannot learn something from the ways of Nature, who is never in a hurry. There is an old proverb which we would do well to write upon our walls: "Make haste slowly." Here and there we find some one living up to that standard, and we feel at once the restfulness of such a character. The calm, well-poised per- son who accomplishes great things and who can be permanently relied upon, does very little talking. The world's real workers never complain of being "awfully busy." — e. m. h.
HALLEY'S COMET
OF all the famous comets Halley's is the most interesting; for, by the aid of the Chinese astronomi- cal records, its history can be traced back for nearly two thousand years. A Roman writer mentions its appearance in B.C. 12; and it'was the comet which Josephus tells us appeared during the rebellion of the Jews in A.D. 66, and hung like a flaming sword over Jerusa- lem, heralding its destruction. It ap- peared several times during the su- premacy of the Roman Empire, — "a very large and fearful comet," frighten- ing people nearly out of their wits. Years later it terrified the son of Charle- magne so that he spent whole nights in prayer and poured out his money in charities. Its great tail blazed across the sky when William the Norman landed in England in 1066 and con- quered the Saxon Harold. It was em- broidered afterwards by Queen Ma- tilda on the famous Bayeaux tapestry; and one of the jewels in the British crown was said to have fallen from its tail. It created a great sensation when it came in 1456, three years after the fall of Constantinople, when the Turks were trying to push their conquests farther west. Prayers were issued by the Church for protection against its malice, and the pope is even said to have excommunicated it! The next three appearances, however, were more famous than all that had gone before; for they were the means of astronomers discovering the real truth in regard to these wanderers of the heavens.
— Zion's Herald.
"In the last fifty years the expenses of an American household have in- creased two, three and four times. What were once considered rare lux- uries are now common necessities."
" I'd like to be an iditor. They'senawthin' so hard as mindin' ye'er own business; an iditor never has to do that." — Mr. Dooley.
A Group of Meat Substitutes
Seasonable Recipes
By Janet M. Hill
IX all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material.
Emergency Soup
COOK half a cup, each, of carrot and celery cubes (a table- spoonful of celery seed may be substituted for the fresh celery) and one onion, cut in slices, in one-fourth a cup of butter, or fat from the top of soup stock, ten minutes. Add one cup of potato cubes, boiled five minutes, rinsed in cold water and drained, and four cups of water, and let cook one hour ; add half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and salt and pepper as needed. Beat the yolks of two eggs; add half a cup of cream and stir into the hot soup. Serve very hot. Strain out the vege- tables or leave them in as desired. There should be one quart of soup. If reduced by cooking add milk or water to make that quantity.
Cream-of-String Bean Soup Chop or pound cold, cooked string beans, then press through a sieve. A gravy strainer set into one part of a double boiler and a wooden pestle are needed for this process. Between one and two cups of puree are needed for a soup to serve six or seven people. Let one quart of milk scald with three slices of onion and three branches of parsley. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one-fourth a cup of fiour, one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika ; add the puree and stir until boiling. When ready to serve strain the milk over the puree, mix thoroughly and serve at once. Other vegetables, as asparagus, peas tomatoes, spinach, onions, etc.. ma\ be substituted for the a%|a>iiT^iiiy
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
Black Bean Soup
Let one pint of black or dark red kidney beans soak overnight; drain, wash in cold water and rinse and drain
the whole to the soup kettle and let sim- mer fifteen minutes. Serve a slice of lemon and a slice of "hard-cooked" egg in each plate of soup. Pass crou- tons with the soup.
Cream-of-String Bean Soup with Croutons
again. Set to cook in two quarts of cold water. Slice an onion and let cook in one or two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add to the beans with two parsley branches and half a teaspoonful of celery seed, tied in a bit of muslin. Let simmer until the beans are soft, adding hot water as needed to keep the quan- tity the same as in the beginning. Press the beans through a sieve; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one-half a teaspoonful of paprika, one-fourth a teaspoonful of curry powder and a cup of tomato puree, if at hand. Heat the soup to the boiling point. Beat one- fourth a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in two tablespoonfuls of flour, dilute with a little of the hot soup, stir until smooth, then return
Simple Fish Loaf
Purchase a fresh codfish or haddock with the head left on. Remove the head, cut down the full length of the fish, on the side opposite the opening of the fish, on each side of the fin bones and pull out this narrow strip. Loosen the skin at the head end of the fish, then pull it from the fish, first on one side and then on the other. With a knife and the fingers push and cut the flesh from the large bone, first on one side and then on the other. In the ab- sence of a "fish sheet," flatten the edges of the cover of a tin cracker box ; set this in a baking pan and on it dispose about three thin slices of fat salt pork. On the pork dispose a piece of the fish
Simple Fish Loaf
SEASONABLE RECIPES
27
to make a layer of fish suitable for serving. Mix one cup of soft, fine bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of dried sweet basil, crushed fine, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper and one-fourth a cup of melted butter, ba- con or salt pork fat ; spread the crumbs over the fish, first sprinkling it lightly with salt and pepper. Cover the crumbs with the other piece of fish, trimming and setting in place as is needed to make a compact loaf. Sprin- kle with salt and pepper. Dispose three or four thin slices of salt pork above and set to cook in a moderate oven. Reduce the heat as soon as the fish is seared over a little and let cook slowly about half an hour. A few minutes before the fish is cooked, re- move the pork from the top, cover the fish with half a cup of cracker crumbs, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and set into the oven, to brown the crumbs. Serve with drawn butter sauce, to which a chopped "hard-cooked" egg or two tablespoon- fuls of capers may be added. Baste the fish four or five times during the cookinsf.
Chowder from Remnants of Fish Loaf
Put the head, the bones, broken in pieces, and all the remnants of the fish
G-XOCCHI A LA ROMAIXE
in a saucepan. Cover with cold water and let simmer an hour or more. Strain off the liquid ; add to it any good pieces of fish that may be found in the sauce- pan. Pour boiling water over a pint of pared-and-sliced potatoes ; let boil three or four minutes , drain , rinse in cold water and drain again. Heat the fish broth to the boiling point; add the sliced pota- toes, the pulp scraped from an onion and a teaspoonful of salt and let cook until the potato is tender. Add any rem- nants of the fish loaf, half a cup of cream, one cup of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter and salt and pepper as needed. If the water has been much reduced by cooking:, more milk mav be needed.
Egg Timbales with Asparagus
28
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
Gnocchi a la Romaine
Mix one-fourth a cup, each, of corn- starch and flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika to a thin paste with milk. Put the rest of a pint of milk over the fire in a double boiler. When the milk is scalded, stir in the paste, and stir and cook until the mix- ture is smooth and thick; cover and let cook fifteen or twenty minutes. Add half a cup or more of grated cheese, one-fourth a cup of butter, beaten to a cream and mixed with the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir until the cheese is melted and the eggs are cooked, then turn into a buttered shallow dish, to make a paste half an inch thick. When
drops of onion juice, and one cup and a half of rich milk. Mix thoroughly, and pour into well-buttered timbale molds. Cook, set on folds of paper, surrounded by hot water, until the centers are firm. Turn from the molds upon a hot platter, and surround with cooked asparagus or peas or with tomato or bread sauce. Season the asparagus, cut in short pieces, or the peas with salt, pepper and butter, or stir into a cup and a half of cream sauce.
Bread Sauce
Put half a cup of fine bread crumbs, from the center of a stale loaf, a peeled onion into which six cloves have been pushed, half a teaspoonful, each, of
Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce, Tomato-axd-Lettuce Salad
cold cut in rounds with a biscuit cutter. Put the rounds in a buttered earthen dish, sprinkle with grated cheese, set other rounds above the first and sprinkle generously with cheese. Set the dish into the oven, to melt the cheese and reheat the mixture. Serve very hot with bread in some form and a salad or cooked fruit.
Egg Timbales
Beat six eggs, without separating the whites and yolks. Add a scant teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, twenty
salt and paprika, and one pint of milk over the fire in a double boiler. Cover, and let cook about one hour. Remove the onion and cloves. Add two table- spoonfuls of butter and beat thor- oughly. Then pour over the timbales. Half a cup of coarse bread crumbs (center of loaf), browned in three or four tablespoonfuls of butter, made hot in a frying-pan, may be sprinkled over the whole.
Red Kidney Beans, Mexican Style
Let a cup of dark, maroon colored kidne}' beans soak over night in plenty
SEASONABLE RECIPES
29
of cold water. Set to cook in fresh water and let simmer several hours or until nearly tender, letting the water, at the last, evaporate till but a few spoonfuls are left. Chop fine a green or red pepper or let a pepper simmer in a little water until tender, then scrape the pulp from the thin outer skin. To the chopped pepper or the pepper pulp add the pulp scraped from an onion and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley; let these cook in two tablespoonfuls of melted butter until softened and }-el- lowed; add half a teaspoonful of salt, one cup of tomato puree, and, when boiling, stir in the beans. Let cook un- til the tomato is evaporated and the beans are soft throughout. Finish with two more tablespoonfuls of butter in little bits. Surround with triangles of bread, buttered and browned in the oven. If desired garnish with a hard-cooked egg, cut in eighths, lengthwise.
Lima-and-Black Bean Salad
Let one cup each of Lima and black beans soak overnight, separately, in cold water; drain, wash in cold water.
Red Kidney Beaxs, Mexican Style
drain and set to cook in cold water, After boiling begins, replenish Avith boiHng water as needed and let cook until tender. Season with salt when about three-fourths cooked. When cold season separately with oil, vinegar, onion juice, paprika, chopped parsley and about one-fourth a teaspoonful of mustard or curry powder. Let stand until well seasoned. Serve in a bowl lined with lettuce hearts. Dispose the dark beans in the center and the lie^ht
Lima-axd-Black Bean Salad
30
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
beans at the ends. Garnish with quar- ters or sHces of tomato or with pickled beets.
Plain Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce
Blanch one cup of rice (by boiling and rinsing) as in the preceding recipe. Add four cups of milk and three-fourths a teaspoonful of salt and let cook until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. Have ready a cup or more of sifted bread crumbs, from the center of a loaf of bread that has been baked twenty- four hours; also an egg beaten w4th three tablespoonfuls of milk. Take the rice in rounding tablespoonfuls,
Risotto
(Practical Cooking and Serving)
Put one cup of rice over the fire in a quart of cold water. Heat quickly to the boiling point and let boil rapidly two or three minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan, turn in the rice, add an onion cut in halves, stir and cook until the butter is absorbed, then add one cup of to- mato pulp (cooked tomato pressed through a sieve) , one teaspoonful and a half of salt, half a teaspoonful of pap- rika and three cups of water (when
Asparagus Shortcake
form into cylinder or triangle shapes, roll in the crumbs, then pour over the egg to cover completely and again roll in the crumbs. Fry in deep fat and drain on soft paper. Serve with cheese sauce and tomato-and-lettuce salad.
Cheese Sauce Make a cup of white sauce with two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper and one cup of milk, then stir in from one -half to a whole cup of grated cheese with salt and pepper as needed.
convenient broth made from remnants of meat is better). Let cook in a double boiler or in a covered saucepan on an asbestos mat until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender. Add half a cup or more of grated cheese; lift the rice with two silver forks, to mix the cheese through it. Serve very hot. This mixture may be shaped and fried as croquettes.
Savory Rice Croquettes
Blanch and cook the rice according to directions given under "Risotto." Prepare a cup of tomato sauce, first
SEASONABLE RECIPES
31
cooking a slice, each, of onion and green pepper, chopped fine, in the butter of which the sauce is to be made, then add the flour and cup of tomato puree. Into the sauce stir all the rice the sauce will take up readily. Turn the mixture upon a buttered plate. When cold shape, fry and serve with cheese sauce.
Asparagus Shortcake
This dish fur- nishes a good way of using to advantage stalks of asparagus which, on account of the lack of uni- formity in length, are not suitable to tie in bunches. Cut the asparagus in pieces nearly one inch in length, cook in boiling salted water until tender. For a pint of cooked asparagus make a cup and a half of drawn butter or cream sauce, using the water in which the asparagus was cooked as part of the liquid and finishing with an extra tablespoonful or two of butter. Sift together, three times, two cups of sifted pastry flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and two slightly rounding teaspoon- fuls of baking powder. With the tips of the fingers work in three tablespoon- fuls of shortening, then mix with milk
or water to a soft dough. Spread the dough in two round shallow pans. Bake in a quick oven. Stir the aspara- gus into the sauce. Butter one of the
Vanilla Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce
cakes, pour part of the hot asparagus over it, and set the secpnd cake af)ove the first. Spread with butter, and pour over the rest of the asparagus. Finish with the sifted yolk of. a "hard-cooked " egg and the white, cut in quarters.
Floradora Buns
Cool a cup of scaldea milk to a luke- warm temperature. Add a cake of compressed yeast, softened in one- fourth a cup of water, then stir in about two cups of bread flour, or enough to make a batter; beat until smooth, cover and set aside to become very light and full of bubbles. Add half a cup of cocoanut, half a cup of sliced citron.
Floradora Buns
32
THE BOSTUX COOKIXG-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
the yolks of two eggs, half a cup of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, one- third a cup of melted shortening and enough flour to make a dough. Knead until elastic; cover and set aside until doubled in bulk. Shape into balls weighing about two ounces each ; cover closely w^ith pan or bowl, to avoid the formation of a crust. Form into oval shapes. Set close together in baking pans. When light bake about twenty- five minutes. Brush over with white of egg, sprinkle with sliced almonds and granulated, or, better still, coffee A, sugar. Return to the oven to set the glaze. The nuts, especially the almonds, which contain considerable proteid, make these buns valuable in a dietary from which meat is excluded.
Creamed Macaroni au Gratin Boil three-fourths a cup of macaroni, broken in pieces an inch in length, in boiling salted water, until tender ; drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. Make a sauce of two table- spoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a teaspoon- ful. each, of salt and pepper and a cup of rich milk. Mix the macaroni through the sauce, mixing in, at the same time, half a cup or more of grated cheese. Turn into a shallow dish, cover with half a cup of cracker crumbs, mixed with three tablespoon- fuls of melted butter, and let brown in the oven.
Sa
vorv
M
acaroni
Cook the macaroni in the usual man- ner. Cook half an onion, cut in slices, and half a green or red pepper, in three tablespoonfuls of butter until lightly browned; add about a cup and a half of tomato and let simmer until well reduced. Press through a sieve. There should be a generous cup of the pulp. Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and the prepared tomato; add half a cup or more of grated cheese. When the cheese is melted, pour the sauce over the cooked macaroni and lift with two forks, to mix together thoroughly. Let stand over hot water to become very hot. Sprinkle with a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley. When convenient fine-chopped or diced ham may be mixed through the dish or broth may replace a part of the tomato puree.
-^2--
Macaroni a la Reine Cook and blanch three- fourths a cup of macaroni, broken in inch lengths. Scald one cup of rich cream; stir into it two tablespoonfuls of butter and one-fourth a pound of cheese grated or cut into exceedingly thin slices. When smooth add one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea-
CoFFEE Percolator, Xew Style
SEASONABLE RECIPES
33
spoonful of paprika and pour it over the macaroni, which has been turned into a shallow baking dish. Have ready a scant cup of three-eighths an inch cubes of bread fried delicately in a Httle butter or olive oil. Sprinkle these over the macaroni. Ser^^e very hot.
Succotash Let dried Lima or kidney beans soak in cold water overnight; drain, wash in fresh water, rinse and drain again. Cover with cold water and let simmer until tender (five hours or longer). Add a teaspoonful of salt, one can of komlet or canned com, one-fourth a cup of butter and half a teaspoonful of black pepper, also more salt if needed. A little strained tomato puree, also onion juice and chopped peppers, are additions relished by many.
Chou Paste
Set half a cup of butter and one cup of boiling water over the fire; when again boiling stir in one cup of sifted pastry flour. Stir and cook until the mixture separates from the sides of the saucepan. Turn into a bowd and break in three eggs, one after another, beat- ing in each egg smoothly before the next is added. Use as be^w.^shaping with bag and star tube.
Strawberry Tart
{See page 7) Cut out a round of pastry^the size of an ordinary pie plate. Use plain, flaky or puff paste. Prick the paste with a fork, that it may puff evenly in baking. Set it on a tin baking sheet and pipe a rim of chou paste on the edge. Also pipe small (about an inch in diameter) rounds of chou paste on another baking sheet. Bake the large round about twenty-five minutes, the small cakes about fifteen minutes. When done they w411 feel light, if taken up in the hand. Have ready two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar, cooked
to caramel; dip the base of the small rounds in the caramel and set them in order upon the rim of paste. Have ready a cup of English cream and a basket of strawberries, hulled, cut in halves and mixed with sugar as needed. Turn the partially cooled cream into the pastry case and dispose the straw- berries above. Serve at once or at pleasure.
English Cream Scald one cup of milk. Sift together, several times one-fourth a cup, each, of pastry flour and sugar and one- fourth a teaspoonful of salt, then stir into the hot milk. Stir and cook until the mixture thickens, then cover and let cook ten minutes. Beat one whole egg or two yolks; add a scant fourth a cup of sugar and beat again, then stir into the hot mixture ; let cook until the egg is set. When cooled a little add half a teaspoonful of vanilla ex- tract and use as indicated above.
Strawberries, Early June Stvle {See page 7)
Cut choice strawberries in halves; squeeze over them a httle orange juice and mix with sugar to sweeten; let stand in a cool place to become chilled. Cook one quart of water and one pint of sugar twenty minutes ; add a scant teaspoonful of gelatine softened in two or three tablespoonfuls of cold water, strain and when cold add one pint of orange juice and the juice of one large lemon. Freeze as usual. Put a spoonful of the sherbet in a glass cup or saucer (orange shells may also be used) and surround with some of the prepared berries.
Strawberry-and-Pineapple Fancy
{See page 7) Mix strawberries, cut in halves, and pineapple (fresh or canned) in small pieces with sugar to sweeten. Dispose in the center of a dish, and surround with half slices of choice pineapple.
34
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
Frozen Apricots, City Fashion
Drain the syrup from a can of apri- cots ; add a cup of sugar and the rind of an orange, cut in quarters; let boil ten minutes and remove the rind; add one quart of water, one cup and a half of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of curacoa and the pulp scraped from the skins of the apricots and cut in bits. Let stand some hours, overnight if con- venient, then freeze as usual. This quantity will make one quart of frozen mixture.
Vanilla Ice Cream, Chocolate Sauce
Let one quart of milk, one cup of double cream, one cup of sugar be heated to betw^een 90° and 100° Fahr. Stir in one Junket tablet, crushed and dissolved in a tablespoonful of cold water. Keep the mixture in a warm (100° Fahr.) place until it jellies, then let cool and freeze. "When ready to serve pour over a hot chocolate sauce. Both ice cream and sauce are nutri- tious.
Chocolate Sauce
Melt two squares of chocolate over boiling water; add one-fourth a cup of sugar' and one-fourth a cup of boiling water and stir and cook until perfectly smooth and boiling. Sift together, several times, three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a cup of granulated sugar ; pour on one-fourth a cup of boihng water and when smooth stir into the chocolate mixture. Let simmer ten minutes, stirring as needed. Flavor' with a tea spoonful of vanilla extract.
Prune Charlotte Russe
Soften half a package of gelatine in half a cup of cold water. Cut enough cooked prunes in pieces to fill a cup; add a cup of prune juice, the juice of one lemon, three-fourths a cup of sugar, and, if desired, three or four tablespoon- fuls of sherry wine; add the softened gelatine, dissolved by setting the cup
containing it in hot water. Set the mixture into a dish of ice water and stir until it begins to thicken, then fold in one cup and a half of double cream, beaten firm. Turn into a mold. Serve, turned from the mold, either with or without whipped cream. For a change substitute orange or grape-fruit marma- lade for a part of the prunes.
Delicate Pudding (Miss Wilbur) To a cup of sugar add one cup of hot water and the juice of two lemons. Stir three level tablespoonfuls of corn- starch with enough cold water to pour and stir into the first mixture, heated to the boiling point. Stir till smooth, then let cook fifteen minutes. Fold in the whites of three eggs, beaten dry, and turn into a mold. Serve cold with a custard made of the yolks of three eggs, half a cup of sugar, one-fourth a leaspoonful of salt and two cups of milk. Flavor with half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract.
Rye-Meal Biscuit
To one pint of milk, scalded and cooled, add half or a whole cake of compressed yeast, softened in half a cup of lukewarm milk or water, and three cups of sifted bread flour. Beat very thoroughly and for several min- utes, then cover and set aside to be- come light. When light add one- third a cup of olive oil, melted butter, or drippings, one-third a cup of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt, and two cups and one-half of sifted rye meal. Beat thoroughly and for several minutes, and set aside, to become light, then roll into small balls and dispose in a buttered pan. W^hen Hght and puffy, bake about twenty-five minutes. The recipe makes two and a half dozen of small biscuit. The tops of the bis- cuits may be glazed by brushing them over with a teaspoonful of cornstarch, diluted, and cooked in a cup of boiHng water, or with white of egg for a crisp exterior.
Menus for a Week in June Without Meat
''Cereals and civilization have ever gone hand in hand. As nations have advanced in culture and importance, their dependence upon corn plants has been not less but greater." — Sargent.
Breakfast
Strawberries. Yeast Rolls
Eggs Cooked in Shell
Fried Rice, Sugar. Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Clam Broth
Egg Timbales, Stewed Asparagus
Lettuce, French Dressing
Graham Rolls and Butter
Strawberry Shortcake
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Lettuce-Cream-Cheese and Pimento Salad
Bread and Butter
Rhubarb Baked with Raisins
Cream Sponge Cake. Tea
Breakfast
Strawberries, Cereal, Thin Cream
Scrambled Eggs
French Fried Potatoes
Pop Overs
Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Potato Soup, Croutons
Cheese Souffle
Spinach Molded in Cups, Sauce Tartare
Strawberry Shortcake, Cream
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Cream Toast with Eggs
Currant Bims
Stewed Prunes. Tea
Breakfast
Hot Cereal, Bananas, Thin Cream
Asparagus Omelet
Corn-Meal Muffins
Cocoa. Coft'ee
Dinner
Cream-of-Tomato Soup
Stewed Kidney Beans. Yeast Rolls
Lettuce Salad, Edam Cheese
Toasted Crackers
Cream Puffs
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Boiled Rice, Cheese Sauce Bread and Butter Strawberries. Tea
Breakfast
Cereal, Thin Cream
Codfish Balls
Sliced Cucumbers
Baking Powder Biscuit
Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Asparagus Timbale, Cream Sauce Lettuce Salad, Cheese Balls (fried) Cream-Puff Cases, Strawberry Fillin< Half Cups of Coffee '
Supper
Green Peas Bread and Butter Canned Fruit^ Tea
Breakfast
Cereal, Thin Cream
Asparagus on Toast with Poached Eggs
Yeast Rolls (reheated)
Strawberries. Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Cream-of- Asparagus Soup
Bermuda Onions Stuffed with Nuts
Mashed Potatoes
Boiled Spinach with Sliced Eggs
Rhubarb Pie
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Fresh Fish or Clam Chowder, Crackers
Bread and Butter. Cream Cheese
Dried Peaches, Stewed. Tea
Breakfast
Cereal, Thin Cream
Eggs Cooked in the Shell
Spider Com Cake. Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Cream-of-Komlet Soup with Kornlet
Timbales. Cold Lima Beans
Lettuce and French Dressing
Graham Bread and Butter
Rice Boiled in Milk, Chocolate Sauce
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Boiled Asparagus, Melted Butter
Yeast Biscuit. Orange Cookies
Rhubarb Stewed with Sultana Raisins
Milk. Tea
Breakfast
Strawberries, Cereal,
Thin Cream
Kornlet Griddle Cakes,
Marmalade
Cocoa. Coffee
Dinner
Clam Broth
Asparagus-and-Egg
Shortcake
Lettuce, French Dressing
Cookies Prune Bavarian Cream Half Cups of Coffee 35
Supper
Rice Croquettes, Cheese
Sauce
Bread and Butter
Milk. Stewed Prunes
Tea
|Menus for a Week in July Without Meat
*'The human family are more in need of sound, wholesome advice as to what they should eat and drink than ever before.'' — E. G. Fulton.
Breakfast
Cereal, Top Milk, Red Raspberries Flora dora Buns Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Salmon, Fresh, Canned or Salted,
Egg Sauce
New Potatoes
Peas. Cucumbers
Raspberry Ice Cream. Sponge Cake
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Stewed Primes
Cottage Cheese Bread and Butter Tea Chilled on Ice
Breakfast
Boiled Rice
Sliced Bananas, Thin Cream
Buttered Salt Codfish
New Potatoes, Baked
Graham Bread, Toasted. Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Emergency Soup. Cheese Souffle
Summer Squash
Cabbage Salad in Beet Cups
Raspberry Shortcake, Cream
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Lima-and-Black Bean Salad
Graham Bread and Butter
Berries. Tea
Breakfast
Cereal, Top Milk
Salmon-and-Potato Cakes
Cucumbers
Rye Meal Muffins
Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Cream -of -Green Pea Soup
Risotto
Baked Indian Pudding, Whipped Cream
Half Cups^of Coffee
Supper
Succotash
(Dried Lima Beans and Komlet)
Baking Powder Biscuit
Black Raspberries. Tea
Breakfast
Eggs Poached in Cream on Toast
Plain Rice Croquettes, Maple Syrup
Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Black Bean Soup
Nut Loaf, Tomato Sauce
Stringless Beans
Lettuce-and-Canned Peach Salad
Rhubarb Pie
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Egg Timbales, Bread Sauce
Stringless Beans (left over)
French Dressing
Baking Powder Biscuit. Tea
Breakfast
Berries, Top Milk
Scrambled Eggs, Reformed Style
Waffles, Maple Syrup
Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Asparagus^ Shortcake with Eggs
Gnocchi a la Romain
Lettuce, French Dressing
Raspberry Sherbet, Whipped Cream
Macaroons
Half Cups of Coffee
Supper
Bread and Milk
Chocolate Eclairs
Tea
Breakfast
Berries, Top Milk
Cream Toast
Cinnamon Buns
Coffee. Cocoa
Dinner
Simple Fresh Fish Loaf, Egg Sauce
Beet Greens
Mashed Potatoes (old potatoes)
Green Peas
Raspberry Tart
Supper
Hot Peanut Butter Sandwiches
Cold Beet Greens, French Dressing
Berries. Cookies
Tea
Breakfast
Cereal, Thin Cream
Green Pea Omelet
Buttered Toast
Rye Meal Muffins
Rhubarb Marmalade
Coffee
Cocoa
Dinner
Cream-of-Potato Soup
Egg Timbales,
Green Peas
Kohl Rabbi, Hollandaise
Sauce
Grape Juice Parfait
Half Cups of Coffee
36
Supper
Fresh Fish Chowder
(left over fish) New Beets, Pickled
Berries Bread and Butter
Formal Menus for June Luncheons
Colors: Pink and Green Flowers: Sweet Peas with Maidenhair Ferns.
Choice Strawberries with Hulls Retained
Cream-of-Green Pea Soup, Bread Sticks Radishes. Olives
Halibut Timbales (forcemeat) , Shrimp Sauce
Light Colored Beets, Stuffed with Chopped
Cucumbers and Sprinkled with Chopped
Chives, French Dressing
(Served in Hearts of Lettuce)
Chicken en Casserole. Asparagus, HoUan-
daise Sauce
Plain Rice Croquettes,
Pineapple Sauce Tinted Pink
Sultana Roll, Crushed Strawberry Sauc© Candied Mint Leaves. Pink Mints
Coffee
II
Crushed Pineapple in Glass Cups,
Sprinkled with Fine-Chopped Pistacnio Nuts
and Maraschino Cherries
Consomm^ with Flageolet
Creamed Shrimps in Swedish Timbale Cases (Edge of cases dipped in white of egg, then in fine-chopped parsley) Cucumber-and-Radish Salad (Slice cucumbers and radishes. Do not re- move pink skin from radishes) Lamb Chops, Maintenon Mint Jelly. Green Peas
Cream Cheese Balls Rolled in Fine-Chopped
Parsley
Bar-le-duc. Crackers
Coffee
Luncheon Without Meat
I
Unhulled Strawberries, Powdered Sugar
Cream-of-Spinach Soup
Plain Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce
Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad,
French Dressing
Strawberry Ice Cream
Angel Cake
Coffee
Strawberry Cocktail
Clam Broth
Egg Timbales, Bread Sauce Salad Rolls
Lettuce-and- Asparagus Cream Glac^. French Dressing
Pineapple Sherbet
Macaroons
Coffee
III
Fresh Fish Chowder
Olives. Pickles
Cheese Souffle
Lettuce-and- Asparagus,
French Dressing
Hot Salad Rolls
Vanilla Ice Cream, Crushed Strawberries Coffee
IV
Unhulled Strawberries, Powdered Sugar
Cream-of- Asparagus Soup, Croutons
Olives. Salted Nuts
Gnocchi k la Romain
Lettuce-and-Stringless Bean Salad,
French Dressing
Tiny Baking Powder Biscuit
Individual Strawberry Tarts Coffee
V
Tomato Bouillon
Deviled Crab Meat in Shells
Olives. Gherkins
Pop Overs
Red Raspberry Shortcake, Whipped Cream Coffee
37
Menus for June Weddings
Wedding Breakfast
II
Strawberries, French Fashion
Jellied Bouillon
Chicken Croquettes, Green Peas
Lobster or Fresh Salmon Salad ,
Sandwiches. Rolls
Coffee. Wedding Cake
Strawberry-and-Pineapple Ice Cream
(Molded together)
Fruit Punch
Strawberries, French Fashion
Jelhed Bouillon
Egg Timbales, Bread Sauce
Lettuce-and- Asparagus Cream Glace
Salad Rolls
Coffee
Bride's Loaf
'Pineapple Sherbet
III
Strawberry Cocktail
Lobster Newburg in Ramekins
Cucumbers, French Dressing
Breaded Sweetbreads, Fresh Mushroom Sauce
Lettuce-and-Asparagus Cream Glace
Salad Rolls. Coffee
Bride's Loaf
Assorted Cakes
Pistachio Ice Cream, Claret Sauce
For Afternoon and Evening Weddings
Chicken in Aspic Jelly
Bread-and-Lettuce Sandwiches
Bride's Cake
Strawberry Ice Cream
Claret Lemonade
III
Bread, Grated Cheese, Sliced Nuts,
Butter Sandwiches
(X lb,, each, except bread, creamed
together and seasoned)
Coffee
Chicken or Salmon Salad
Buttered Rolls. Olives
Assorted Cake
Wedding Cake in Boxes
Vanilla Ice Cream, Crushed Strawberries
Lemonade
II
Cold Boiled Tongue, Sliced Thin
Buttered Rolls. OHves. Salted Nuts
Assorted Cake
Wedding Cake in Boxes
Strawberry Bombe Glace
Pineapple Lemonade
IV
Chicken or Lobster Salad
Tiny Baking Powder Biscuit
OHves. Salted Nuts
Coffee
Bride's Loaf
Fruit Punch
V
Bride's Cake Fruit Punch (largely Strawberry Juice)
VI
Bride's Cake
Strawberry Ice Cream
Lemonade
38
Meat Substitutes
Bv lanet M. Hill
THIS present time of high prices for food-stuffs should not pass without leaving us better quaH- fied to cope with a return of the same conditions. If we learn our lesson well, we shall know how to take our old- time supply of food and "make it go farther." For the truth is, women in general do not get the full value of the money expended for food. With too many of us the A, B, C of economy is 3^et to be learned, and, as we have said before in these pages, economy does not consist in going without, but in obtaining the greatest value possible out of what we buy. This means study on our part. And a little thought is what too many of us seem to be afraid of. Instead of letting ourselves, at the thought of meal- time, fall into a state of chronic mental flutter that utterly incapacitates us for any serious work, let us sit down in advance and calmly plan out the meals for a week. It is impossible to follow out with exactness any printed set of menus, but these are suggestive and helpful in working out our own bills of fare.
In our page of menus without meat the flavor of many of the dishes could be improved by the judicious use of meat extract or of "second" broth, broth made of the remnants of roasts, giblets of fowl, flank ends of chops and steak, etc. Granted that we un- doubtedly have, in the past, eaten too much meat, there is no reason why we should fly to the other extreme and eat none at all. Remember that a cup of good, well-seasoned broth will change entirely the character, as well as the taste, of all vegetable dishes to which it is added.
The main substitutes of meat are: milk, cheese, eggs, fish of all kinds,
dried beans, peas, lentils, nuts and grains. These may be presented singly or in combination. When milk, eggs or cheese is combined with others in the group a most substantial dish results. Remember that in meats of good quality fat is always present, though it ma}' not be conspicuous, and the fat thus eliminated from a meat- less diet must be made up in cream, butter, olive or other form of vege- table oil.
Asparagus and green peas are not, like dried peas and beans, meat substi- tutes, but their flavor is grateful to us; combine either of these in a meal with bread or rice and cheese or eggs (butter in small quantity will be needed) and a complete meal is assured.
Asparagus Cream Glac6 is given in several of our menus for formal occa- sions; the full dish calls for lettuce hearts and French dressing. The recipe was given on page 429 of the April number of this magazine. Noth- ing more delicate in flavor and texture can be produced for a salad. The recipe was produced for these pages, and, while the feature of packing in ice and salt makes the dish too trouble- some for general or frequent use, we' commend it for occasional service, and most especially in a menu where the eHmination of meat makes some form of fat, in rather generous measure, advisable. By the addition of three or four beaten 3'olks of eggs to the puree (added by cooking as in boiled custard) , the food value of the dish is enhanced and it may become the chief dish of the meal.
In the "Egg Timbales -w^th Aspara- gus" the egg and milk of the timbales insure tissue-building material for the meal; if still more of the prot'eid cor*
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
pound be ad\-isable in this special dish. stir the cooked asparagus into a cream sauce and finish with the beaten yolks of two eggs.
It is yet too early for much choice in green beans, but the ripe beans of last year are in good condition for many really delectable dishes, and only these dried beans are true meat substitutes. Any variety of bean, carefully stewed and as carefully seasoned, will be found palatable, satisfying and wholesome. For seasoning, salt is added when the cooking is half completed; pepper aids in their digestion; butter or cream supplies the fat in which they are lacking and adds to their palatability. The variety of pepper is a feature upon which to play. Chilli-Colorado, pap- rika or black pepper, all of which can be purchased, ground, in bottles, are some of the forms to be secured with- out labor; green or red peppers, fresh from the garden or hothouse, or the chilli peppers or pimentos, which are preserved entire, need to be chopped and softened in a little melted butter before they are added to the cooked t-eans. Onion and parsley are other flavorers that harmonize with beans. Indeed, a salad made of beans does not reach its highest estate unless the presence of onion be suspected. To- matoes are an addition that we have borrowed from Mexico or, farther back, from the dark-eyed Spaniard.
Among our illustrations will be found croqueues with cheese sauce. Rice croquettes, though easily pre- pared, take some time, and practically the same dish is obtained by turning the cooked rice into a shallow dish.
The rice when cold may be cut into any desired shape. Egged-and-crumbed it may be fried in deep fat, or, dipped in flour, it may be sauted in a small quantity of salt pork fat or butter. In either case the cheese sauce is needed for the complete dish; though really a green salad of some sort is a requisite to many, to make a meal of full satisfaction.
Milk is one of the chief meat substi- tutes. There are so many ways in which to present this almost perfect food that choice is often difficult. Junket ice cream wlQ always be welcomed, and wiU make up for much of the seeming deficiency felt by many whileh\'ingupon a meatless diet. Choco- late sauce is an addition, rather heayy for summer, perhaps, but one that wiU insure more than an ordinarily nutri- tious dish. In creamed codfish, cream soups, with eggs, in custards, with cereals, macaroni and cheese, the com- binations are almost limitless. Nor must we forget to mention the dish dear to the heart of childhood and age ahke, and one that even those in middle life return to, again and again, when the summer stm is high in mid- heaven, and real refreshment that will not tax the system imduly is de- manded. We refer to a choice, egg- shell china bowl filled with bread and milk, through which, perchance, are mixed blueberries from the near-by hillside. Truly it is no great hardship to go without meat, at least for a season, if we will but expend for whole- some substitutes a goodly portion of the money we have been accustomed to spend for the several kinds of meat.
Cherries, Cherries
Cherries btirden all the trees. Swinging gayly in the breeze, Wooing every bird, I ween, First of ripened globes to glean; Every wind that passes by For the cherries seems to sigh, Kissed by siinbeams all the day Are the cherries glad and gay.
Cherries, cherries, ripe and red, On the branches overhead. Swaying, turning, glowing bright In the morning's rosy Hght; Xot a hand shall plead in vain Thus the jmcy fruit to gain. Come and gather as you may Cherries, cherries, glad and gay.
— Rtdh Raymond.
Lessons in Elementary Cooking
By Mary Chandler Jones
Teacher of Cookery in the Public Schools of Brookline, Mass.
LESSON IV
Vegetables
VEGETABLES belong to the plant kingdom and include many parts of the plant which may be eaten. It is difficult, sometimes, to make a distinction between a vegetable and a fruit, but, in general, we may say that fruits have some sweet acid taste and are, really, the fruit of plants, while vegetables include many other portions. In the turnip, beet, carrot and parsnip we use the fleshy root; in celery and asparagus, the stalk; in the onion, the bulb; in lettuce, cabbage and spinach, the leaf; in cauliflower, the blossom; in potatoes, the enlarged por- tion of an underground stem, called a tuber. In peas and beans we eat the seeds, and, in string beans, the seed- pod as well. We may notice that the parts of any plant, in which are stored materials for the future growth of the plant or for the nourishment of the new- plant, give us our most hearty vegetables, such as potatoes, peas and beans, while green vegetables, such as lettuce, furnish very little real building material of any kind. Such vegetables are, however, very valuable for the mineral salts which they contain, and which may be supplied to the body in this form better than in any other. Green vegetables, then, even in winter, may not be always the luxury they sometimes seem.
Vegetables that are eaten without cooking, as in salads, must be most carefully cleansed and served cold and crisp.
Let us examine the structure of a slice of potato, carrot, turnip and onion.
Test each with dilute tincture of iodine. Which gives the purple color of the starch test? From the taste of the carrot and turnip, what would you imagine them to contain?
Grate a slice of turnip and one of potato and wash the gratings in a cheese cloth under cold water. Notice in each case what washes through and what remains in the cloth. Let the potato water stand, then pour it away without disturbing the powder that settles at the bottom. After washing the powder let it dry thoroughly. Notice how glis- tening is this potato starch. Examine the fibrous mass that is left in the cheese, cloth. This is called woody fiber or cellulose and forms, in a greater or less degree of hardness, the framework of all plant life. It may be called the bony structure of plants and vegetables.
The cellulose is tough and must be thoroughtly broken down to be at all digestible and to allow the starch and other substances in a vegetable to be used in the system. Heat and mois- ture are necessary for softening and breaking down the cells of this woody fiber. It may be said that in cooking vegetables we wish to accomplish three things:
1. To soften and render the cellu- lose more digestible.
2. To cook starch if present.
3. To develop flavor. Vegetables contain so much soluble
matter, in the form of mineral salts, that they must be prepared without long soaking in water, if such water is, afterward, to be thrown away. Pota-
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
toes, for instance, if pared, cut and soaked before cooking, lose a very large percentage of their mineral matter, as well as much of their albumin.
General Rules for Cooking Vegetables
1. Wash and scrub, if necessary.
2. Remove the skin.
Potatoes. Pare with a thin par- ing and remove the eyes with- out waste.
Carrots. Scrape until bright and red.
Turnips. Cut off tough, woody layer.
Beets. Wash carefully so as not to break the skin. Rub off the skin after cooking.
3. Plunge the vegetable into fresh boiling, salted water. Green vegetables, to keep their color, should be cooked without a cover over the kettle. Onions and other strong vegetables, also, should be cooked uncovered, since the odor will thus be less noticeable through the house.
4. Boil the vegetables until they are tender, then remove at once from the water ; mash (if desired) , season and serve.
5. Use salt, pepper and butter for seasoning. Measure the vegetable after it is cooked and mashed or prepared in any other way, and for each cup of the vegetable add one tablespoonful of butter, one-quarter a teaspoonful of salt and a speck of pepper.
Boiled Potatoes
Choose medium-sized potatoes. Pre- pare by the general rule. When they are tender, drain off every drop of water and leave them, uncovered, in a warm place to drive off the steam. Do not let them bum. Serve hot.
Riced Potatoes Press hot boiled potatoes through a ricer or coarse strainer. Pile lightly on a hot dish and serve hot.
Mashed Potatoes
Measure hot riced potato and season by the general rule, adding with the sea- soning enough hot milk to moisten. Add the milk slowly and be careful not to add too much. Beat with a fork until creamy and white. Pile lightly on a hot dish and serve hot.
Creamed Potatoes
Cut cold boiled potatoes into one- half inch cubes and reheat in white sauce. Use about one cup of sauce for one cup and a half of potato. Gar- nish with sprigs of parsley, washed and dried.
Baked Potatoes
Choose medium-sized potatoes.. Wash and place them on the rack in a moderate oven. Bake about thirty minutes or until they are soft. Prick the skin to let the steam escape. Serve in an uncovered dish, covered with a napkin.
(If potatoes contain a large amount of starch and a still larger porportion of water, how is the baked potato cooked? Remember that starch re- requires both heat and moisture for its cookery.)
Creamed Carrots
Cook the carrots by the general rule but cut into dice before boiling. When tender remove from the water and re- heat them in white sauce. This white sauce may be made with the carrot "stock" in place of the milk, or with part milk and part stock. (The stock is the water in which the carrots were cooked.)
Scalloped Onions
Wash and prepare the onions. Plunge them into boiling, salted water and let boil five minutes, then drain off every drop of water and put them into a fresh supply of boiling, salted water.
PRACTICAL HOME DIETETICS
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Boil until the onions are tender. Drain off the water again, put the onions into a buttered baldng dish and pour white sauce over them. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake until the crumbs are a golden brown.
Notice the color, odor and taste of water in which vegetables have been cooked. Is any waste apparent? How might this be avoided? (Ad- vantages of using vegetable stock in vegetable sauces and soups, and in cooking such vegetables as carrots and turnips, directly in stews and soups.) Potato water can never be used in these ways and potatoes must always be par- boiled before putting into stews. Why ?
What is the advantage in cooking a
strongly flavored vegetable, like the onion, in two waters? Why is it better to bake a potato than to boil it ?
Our common winter vegetables, such as the turnip, carrot, parsnip and onion, are too little eaten and enjoyed. The mineral salts that they contain are very wholesome for general use. The onion, too, is not so general a favorite as it richly deserves to be. It is a pity that it is not more generally liked, for when properly cooked there is scarcely any vegetable more deHcious or more whole- some. Encourage the pupils to learn to like, if they do not already enjoy them, the simple, inexpensive vege- tables, which may be within the reach of all.
Practical Home Dietetics
Diet for Nervous People By Minnie Genevieve Morse
WHILE diseases of bacterial ori- gin are being, one by one, brought under control by modem methods of prevention and treatment, nervous disorders of all kinds are said to be steadily on the increase. Many factors unite in bring- ing about this state of things, but among the most prolific causes of nerv- ous illness are overwork and over- worry, domestic and financial troubles, an over- strenuous social life, and the modem spirit of unrest. Women are the most frequent sufferers, but the stronger sex also furnishes many victims, and even among children, under the influence of an inheritance of irritable nerves and the over-intense atmosphere about them, one too often sees signs of nerv- ous instability.
When actual breakdown occurs, the patient is taken in hand by a physician ; and it is the part of wisdom to seek medical advice on the first appearance
of the symptoms of such a disaster. The sufferer from mere nervous ir- ritability, fatigue, or depression, how- ever, seldom considers herself ill, and it is she who can profit most by the practical suggestions contained in such books as "Self Help for Nervous Women," dealing with such topics as the control of the emotions, rational ways of resting and working, and suggestions for fighting insomnia, mor- bid fears, and other nervous miseries.
Many nervous women do not realize that their symptoms are a sign that the nerve tissues of the body are not in good condition; that in some way the ex- penditure of nerve force has been greater than the supply, and that bank- ruptcy is approaching. Such is the case, however; the nervous tissues are not properly nourished, and the nerve cells have become impoverished and shrunken. Therefore, along with the effort to lessen the expenditure of nerv-
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
ous energy, by better emotional control and a more rational and less wearing life, there should be an attempt to im- prove nutrition and build up the de- pleted nervous tissues.
Nervous patients often complain of a loss of appetite so complete that it is only with difficulty that they can force themselves to eat at all. Others suffer from nervous indigestion; while still others, attracted by the advertise- ments of some "health food," or under the influence of some dietetic faddist, exchange a normal, well-balanced ra- tion for a one-sided diet, which fails to supply all the needs of the body, and so aggravates their condition. Where there is actual digestive trouble, medi- cal treatment may be needed. If, however, there is merely a lack of de- sire for food, together with nervous irritabihty or fatigue, the patient needs, first, to take a sufficient supply of nourishing and easily-digestible food, at regular intervals, whether she wants it or not; and, second, to think as little as possible about her appetite or her digestion.
There is no such thing as a specific "brain" or "nerve food," outside of the advertisements of enterprising food- stuff producers; the nutrition of any particular part of the body can only be improved by improving that of the body as a whole. Nor can this be done satis- factorily by the use of any one class of foods alone; under ordinary circum- stances a generous and nourishing, but well-balanced diet produces the best re- sults. When recourse must be had to the "rest cure," a milk diet is frequently ordered for a certain length of time, and in some sanitariums special re- strictions are put upon the diet for nervous patients; but, for the person who is able to lead a fairly normal Hfe, there need be no violent deviation from the ordinary bill of fare. As the shrunk- en nerve cells need rebuilding, the proteids, or nitrogenous foods, among which meats, eggs and milk hold the
leading place, should be well repre- sented in the diet. The "force pro- ducers"— the carbohydrates or sug- ars and starches, and the fats — are also an important part of the fuel needed for the proper running of the human machine, while fresh fruits and vegetables, though containing less ac- tual nourishment, do much to keep the body in good condition.
Liberty to eat a generous and well- balanced ration does not, however, mean Hcense to indulge in all sorts of indigestible and improperly prepared food. When the nervous system is in a run-down condition, the nerve supply to all parts of the body, including the digestive organs, is not up to the normal, so that these organs cannot do their work as well as usual; and attempts to improve nutrition cannot meet with much success, if the digestive system be overtaxed. Among meats, veal should be avoided, as should pork, except in the form of bacon or ham, and liver and kidneys. Chicken is easily digested, but turkey is less so, and duck and goose should be omitted altogether. Almost all kinds of fresh fish may be eaten, with the exception of salmon and eels, but salt fish are not desirable. Fried foods of any kind put a heavy tax upon digestion, as do highly-seasoned or pickled foods and complicated "made dishes"; pastry is proverbially difficult of digestion, and griddle cakes, fancy cakes and rich puddings should be avoided. While most vegetables and fruits may find a place in the menu, cabbage, cucum- bers, turnips and radishes among the former, and bananas and pineapples among the latter, often prove difficult of digestion. There are many people, also, who cannot eat tomatoes or straw- berries without suffering.
Nervous people are especially liable to be great tea or coffee drinkers, and often grow very dependent upon their favorite beverage, and think they could not get along without it. This is not
PRACTICAL HOME DIETETICS
45
to be wondered at, for both tea and coffee are nerve stimulants, relieving fatigue and producing a feeling of re- freshment. They have no real food value, however; and if one can learn to take instead a cup of cocoa or hot milk she will exchange a purely stimulating beverage for a nourishing one, while still enjoying the pleasure and the ad- vantage to digestion that come from the use of a hot drink. Many people, who would not be willing to give up tea or coffee altogether would find it to their advantage to reduce the quantity taken to a minimum. When tea in large quantities is taken with meals, in- stead of aiding digestion it retards it ; furthermore, it is liable to cause wake- fulness and nervous restlessness. Tea should never be allowed to "steep" in- definitely; the additional tannin that is thus extracted makes it much more mischievous. No dietetic error could be worse for the nervous system than the practice of keeping a teapot con- tinually on the range, for refreshment at all hours. Even greater caution is needed in the use of coffee, Avhich is a stronger stimulant than tea; its ten- dency to produce insomnia and nervous tremor is well known, and in cases of extreme overindulgence it may bring about a condition resembling that of other drug habits.
Alcoholic beverages the nervous per- son should leave strictly alone, unless for some specific reason they are ordered by a physician. Alcohol, like other drugs, is a good servant for use in an emergency, but to one who leans upon it for steady aid in improving nutrition and rebuilding a debihtated nervous system it proves a false friend. Dr. W. Oilman Thompson, the well- known authority in dietetic questions, says of it: "Though alcohol is such a strong force producer and heat genera- tor, its effect in this direction is ver}^ soon counterbalanced by its stronger influence in lowering the general tone of the nervous system, and in pro-
ducing positive degeneration in the tissues."
In planning for a generous propor- tion of "tissue builders" in the diet, one's first thought is apt to be of the red meats. It is not advisable, how- ever, to have meats figure overlargely in the menu, as certain extractives which are derived from them are ex- citants to the nervous system. It is for this reason that beef tea, bouillon and meat juice make such eft"ective restoratives; their effect is almost en- tirely that of a stimulant, owing to the preponderance of these extractives over the albumin, or true tissue-build- ing substance, which they contain. They cannot be depended on to furnish nourishment, and should be avoided by nervous people. With onl}^ a moderate amount of meat in the diet, the desired average of proteid may be secured by the use of milk and eggs. Milk is the nearest approach to a per- fect food, and there are few who can not take it in one form or another. A quart of milk a day means only four glasses; yet, as the nutritive value of a pint is said to be about the same as that of six ounces of beef, the addition of a quart of milk a day to the diet means a material aid in rebuilding the bodily tissues. ^lany who dislike the taste of milk do not object to it when flavored with coffee or caramel, beaten up with an egg, made into cocoa, ice cream, junket or other custards, or in gruels or cream soups.
Sour milk has been found by recent investigations to contain a principle which aids in preventing the fermenta- tion of food in the lower part of the digestive tract; used in this form, there- fore, milk plays a double r6le in im- proving nutrition. The delicate cheese made from sour milk, known as cottage or pot cheese, is thus an especiall}^ use- ful article of food. Buttermilk is also high in favor with modem dietitians; it is very easily digested, but should only be used when freshly pre-
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
pared, as it deteriorates in a very short time.
Eggs, raw or slightly cooked, are the second great dependence, when an es- pecially nourishing and easily digested diet is demanded. A raw egg may be broken into a glass and svv' allowed like a raw oyster, or it may be beaten up with milk. The whites alone can sometimes be used with success, when almost nothing else can be retained or digested, and in cases where there is need of immediate and rapid nutrition the whites of a dozen or more eggs a day may be given. They may be swallowed oyster fashion, stirred lightly into orange juice, or beaten with milk or into cocoa. Eggs may also be soft- boiled, or lightly poached, or they m.ay be allowed to stand with the shells on in hot (not boiling) water until brought to a jelly-like consistency. A similar and very attractive method of preparation is to break an egg into a ramekin, which is then placed in a larger dish of water over the fire until the same jellying process has taken place. Hard-boiled or baked eggs take a long time to digest.
Cheese is a very nourishing form of proteid, and a valuable addition to the m^enu for those w4th whom it agrees. But it should be remembered that when toasted, cheese is about as indigestible an article of food as can be imagined.
Peas and beans also contain a large amount of proteid. When used in thick purees made with milk they are ver}^ nourishing and are readily di- gested, supplying tissue-building ma- terial without the irritating properties of the meat extractives.
Few nervous people drink enough water. Drinking large quantities of water at meals is bad for the digestion, diluting the gastric juices so as to give them less power over the food in the stomach, but a generous supply of cool (not iced) water taken on rising in the morning, between meals and at bed- time helps to clear the system of waste
matters and to prevent constipation, and it also improves the complexion.
Constipation is very common among those with an enfeebled nervous system, but it can be overcome to a consider- able extent by including in the diet a large proportion of laxative foods. Eating freely of the fresh fruits and vegetables, which contain much material not used in thenourishment of the body, will produce larger and freer evacu- tions; apples, — raw, baked, or' ipple sauce, — oranges, celery, spinacn and string beans are especialty useful. Figs and prunes, raw or stewed, graham bread, cracked wheat and wheaten grits also have a laxative effect. A glass of cool water the first thing in the morning, an orange or an apple or two or a few figs or prunes before retiring, and confidence in the efficacy of these rational methods, will often bring about an entirely satisfactory condition.
Much indigestion in nervous people is not the result of an actual disorder of the stomach, or even of indiscretions in diet, but is caused by the lowered tone of the nerves supplying the digest- ive apparatus. In such cases, the nervous energy of the body should be conserved in every possible way, and the digestive organs given every chance to do their work properly. x\ glass of hot water, plain or with a pinch of salt or soda, taken half an hour before meals, will often stimulate the digestive fluids to a more profuse flow. Lying down for half an hour, before and after meals, or even sitting quietly in a com- fortable chair — perhaps with a light book, but on no account making any mental effort that would call the blood to the brain when it is needed in the digestive organs — is a procedure that sometimes works wonders in cases of this sort. When the giving up of so much time is impracticable, even ten or fifteen minutes of real relaxation and quiet will help to keep one from going to a meal in a state of nervous tension or excitement, or returning to such a con-
PRACTICAL HOME DIETETICS
47
dition the instant the food is disposed of, thus removing one of the greatest obstacles to good digestion among those who lead a too strenuous life.
Mealtime ought in every household, but especially among highly-strung people, to be made a particularly pleasant and cheerful time; to be kept free from all bickering and faultfinding, all discussion of unpleasant subjects, worries, or matters of business, and as far as possible from all sense of hurry. There is nothing that has a stronger influence upon digestion than the mental attitude with which one comes to the table; grief, worry and anger almost invariably produce a deleterious effect on digestion, besides depriving one of the desire for food. Pleasant emotion, on the other hand, improves digestion and assimilation; the old say- ing, "Laugh and grow fat," has a large amount of truth in it.
An artisticially spread table and a meal serv^ed with especial daintiness will often enable one to eat with fair heartiness, when it would be impossible if the food were less attractively pre- sented. Unless it is absolutely neces- sary, a person with loss of appetite from nervous debility should have nothing to do with the preparation of her own food. If the patient is a wo- man who has been doing her own house- hold work, she may be able to arrange for her meals at some near-by boarding house or restaurant, w^hich would give her both rest and a change of surround- ings at meals. Such a change some- times proves surprisingly beneficial.
Whether taken at home or elsewhere, the nervous person's meals should al- wa3^s be taken at regular hours, regular hours of work being as necessary to the well-being of the digestive system as to the schedule of the methodical house- keeper. If one finds it really impossi- ble to eat a sufficient quantity of food at mealtime, a luncheon in the middle of the morning and another in the middle of the afternoon should supplement the
three usual meals, but these luncheons should be at the same time every day. Dinner at night is to be preferred to a midday dinner, unless plenty of time can be given to the latter; the midday meal is apt to be a rather hurried aft'air, sandwiched in between various duties and engagements, while at night the pressure of the day is largely over, and the digestive organs have better opportunity for taking care of the heaviest meal of the day. Furthermore, many nerv^ous people who can scarcely touch food early in the day can eat a fairly heavy meal at night. Of course, if indigestion and a wakeful night fol- low a late dinner, some other course must be pursued.
On the other hand, insomnia may often be cured by eating a light lunch- eon, such as a glass of milk and a few crackers, the last thing before retiring. This procedure is effective in cases where the mind is too active for sleep, and the desired result is produced by calHng the blood to the digestive or- gans, thus relieving the overcharged brain. The same plan may be followed by those who waken in the early morn- ing hours and find that insistent trains of thought keep them from further sleep; a glass of milk or other light nourishment can be within reach.
Plenty of fresh air in the sleeping- room at night, and living as much as possible out of doors during the day are important aids to digestion for the nervous person. The more oxygen that is taken into the lungs, the better all the vital processes can be carried on. Other things being equal, the woman who sleeps with wide-opened windows and spends several hours each day in the open air will stand a far better chance of being able to digest and as- similate a normal ration than she whose close room obHges her to breathe the same air over and over. There is no surer way to produce most of the ills that flesh is heir to than to deprive the body of a plentiful supply of oxygen.
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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
IF you are pulling threads in linens, or any goods where the threads are hard to get hold of, rub a bar of soap (Ivory I always use) over the threads, and you will find that they slip easily.
M. B.
A Suggestion to Guests
FEW are the households in which the weekly washings do not form a sore point. For the housewife who can get this necessary work done well, regularly, economically and without friction is the blessed exception now- a-days.
Hence the addition of a guest's clothes, though the pieces be reason- ably few in number, is often a sort of a last straw — enough to precipi- tate a storm in the kitchen or laundry, to the distraction of the hostess, who is anxious to make her guest comfortable and equally anxious to keep the peace with her help, especially at this time.
So it is a wise guest who pleasantly but firmly declines to add his or her clothes to the family washings, quietly calling in the laundry wagon, or, if that be impossible, putting the gar- ments into a small bag (brought for the purpose) and giving them to the washerwoman as a separate bit of work, making a private agreement as to the price. The expense is but Httle — nothing at all to be compared with the value of being an agreeable guest, welcome in the kitchen as well as in the parlor. If one dare not or cannot afford to "tip" the help in the house, the least she can do is to lessen their burden in some such way as this. Where the hostess does her own work, this bit of thoughtfulness is all the more necessary.
Even though the hostess be a near relative she will appreciate the kindly independence and its motive, and the visitor may prolong her stay without feeling that the household wheels need extra oil on her account. l. m. c.
Spring Diet
WITH the approach of spring and a warm season, it is, says Dr. Olsen in Good Health, desirable to modify the diet somewhat, avoiding the heavier and more concentrated foods, and taking more fruit and salads of various kinds. It is a fact that the require- ments of the body vary to a certain extent according to the weather. Dur- ing the hot summer season but a com- paratively small amount of food is re- quired for the purpose of maintaining the normal bodily temperature. In the coldest weather of winter the re- verse is the case, and then one requires ample nutrition, and it is proper to eat more heartily. But if the hearty eating is continued well into springtime, when the temperature gets higher and higher, it would produce a surfeiting of the body which would be extremely undesirable and might produce un- pleasant disturbances.
Singing Kettles
It is said that the Japanese, so in- genious in making curious and fasci- nating devices of every kind, manu- facture singing teakettles. An iron kettle, otherwise quite ordinary, has the almost lifelike characteristic of bursting into song when the water boils.
The sounds, they say, are produced by steam bubbles escaping from sheets of iron fastened across the kettle near the bottom. Skill is required not only in making them, but in regulating the fire under them. These curious kettles have been in use many years.
To Distinguish Old Milk from Fresh
When both are kept bottled in the refrigerator, turn the pasteboard bottle- top upside down in the bottle contain- ing left-over milk, and keep it right side up in the bottle contain g fresh milk. G. w. D.
Items for this department should bear name and ad dress of writer in full. — Editor.
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
49
letin from the United States Depart- ment of Agriculture we are told that grape juice can be safely steriHzed at from 165° Fahr. to 176° Fahr., and that at this temperature the flavor is hardly changed, while it does change at a temperature above 200° Fahr.
The following method of preparing grape juice gives satisfactory results: Crush the ripe grapes. Pour them into a cloth bag and extract the juice by twisting the bag. Heat the juice in a double boiler or stone jar in a pan of water until it steams. Pour the juice into an enameled vessel to settle for twenty-four hours. Drain it carefully from the sediment and run it through a cone-shaped filter made from woolen cloth. Then proceed as you would to can any fruit in a wash boiler. Put a false bottom in the boiler and set the jars or bottles, filled to one inch of the top, in the boiler. Fill in water within an inch of the top of the jars or bottles and heat until the juice is about to simmer. Take out and seal or cork immediately. Cotton batting tied over corks will prevent mold germs entering. Of course the cans or bottles must be running over full when sealed.
* E. B.
HERE is a recipe for a bread pud- ding which differs a little from the mock Indian pudding given in the Cooking-School Magazine for Feb- ruary, 1905, and really deceived a man who is very fond of baked Indian pud- ding into the belief that his favorite dessert was before him. The recipe is original, but was suggested by your own.
One cup of dry bread crumbs; one quart of milk; one-half a cup of mo- lasses; one-third a cup of granulated sugar; one teaspoonful of cinnamon; one-half a teaspoonful of ginger; one- half a teaspoonful of salt; two table- spoonfuls of butter; one egg.
Reserve one cup of milk; scald the remainder and pour over the dry bread
crumbs. Add the molasses, then the sugar into which you have stirred the spices and salt, then add the butter, cut into tiny bits, and, lastly, the egg, beaten Hght. Bake in a moderate oven about one hour; pour over it the remaining cup of milk and bake one and one-half hours longer. A half cup of raisins may be added if desired. The bread crumbs in this case contained a large proportion of entire wheat crusts, which may possibly have given the pudding its especial excellence.
Regarding varying the monotony of the staples, like bread and potatoes, too much cannot be said. My three grow- ing boys eat quantities of bread and butter, and I find that a change from white bread, which is our staple bread, to entire wheat or oatmeal bread (they do not enjoy rye bread) seems to them a great addition to our usual bill of fare. Coffee cake makes a Sunday morning breakfast a feast; any change, in fact, in the bread seems to make a more elaborate menu. The same en- thusiasm prevails, if we change oc- casionally from plain boiled or mashed potatoes to potatoes Hongroise, French fried, scalloped or hashed brown.
E. C. R.
IT is an excellent plan to underscore with ink the various ingredients in any recipe. This makes it possible for one to see at a glance what articles are needed, and frequently prevents one from omitting something to which the success of the dish is due.
Any dish in which dough has been prepared should be rinsed with cold water before being washed, as hot water tends to cook the dough, making it more difficult to remove. Fpr the same reason run the egg beater a second or so in cold water before putting it into the hot.
Last June we saw a imique decoration of a fireplace at a wedding. Ferns
HOME IDEAS
AND
ECONOMIES
Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at reasonable rates.
Thought and Digestion
" But hushed be every thought that springs From out the bitterness of things."
— Wordsworth.
OF equal importance with air and sunshine to the body is serene and happy thought and that equable mental poise that gives stability to both body and soul.
At the table especially should all thought be of this nature, since whole- some and cheerful thoughts are es- sential to the most perfect digestion which m^tst precede the most perfect assimilation and nourishment, results very necessary to the retaining of youth and the retarding of age effects.
Hence digestion and felicity go hand in hand to perpetuate plumpness and postpone wrinkles.
The "jolly old critter of ninety- four," with freak features and no wrinkles other than those kindly and worthy ones that are at once recognized as coming from sympathy, kindly thought and a good digestion, is an actuality, now and then, and there ought to be more of him, because there might be, if diet and thought were made the best kinds of companions, being made the most of as copartners.
To the idea of plain living and joyous thinking I need add but one injunction, to capture in a nutshell the gist of table benefits as far as the best nourish- ment is concerned, and that is the avoidance of overeating, recalling here the old proverb, "To lengthen your life shorten your meals."
" Go to your banquet, then, but use delight So as to rise still with an appetite."
— Herrick
Thus may
" Time lay his hand Upon your heart gently, not smiting it; But as a harper lays his open palm Upon his harp to deaden its vibrations."
A. P. R.
Dandelion Wine
I HAVE made dandelion wine after various recipes, but those who have made it in the following manner pro- nounce it the best they ever drank:
Pour over two quarts of blossoms one gallon of boiling water. Let it stand from twenty-four to forty-eight hours, then strain through cheese cloth. Add the juice of four oranges and the juice of three lemons. Put in four pounds of granulated sugar and one-fourth cake of yeast foam. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Put the mixture in a two or three gallon jar. Tie muslin over the top of the jar. Set it in the cellar for six weeks. Then skim, strain and bottle. It is ready for use and is pronounced not only good to the taste but a healthful drink.
Grape Juice
I have repeatedly been disappointed in the flavor of my canned cider and grape juice, which I put up without sugar. But I have learned that in order to preserve the flavor of the fresh juice it must only be thoroughly heated, not boiled. In a farmer's bul-
48
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
51
live two blocks apart, but as one of us is possessed of a small boy with a red wagon, it is not difficult to carry it back and forth. We bought it with the understanding that neither of us could lend it, so that problem is also solved. Now, as housecleaning is at hand, we have decided to rent it, if desired, for one dollar a day for the machine and one dollar for the operator — which will be she or myself — the rent for the machine to be divided, but the operator's money going to herself.
Simplify the Furnishings
AS the warm weather approaches, I simplify the furnishings of each room as much as possible. Practically all the bric-a-brac is put away, and photographs and small pictures are shut safely away from the dust. I like a profusion of cut flowers about the house during summer, and alone they show to better advantage than as if they were crowded in with all the rest of the small articles; this also saves much dusting. As many small rugs as can be divspensed with are carefully cleaned and put away. This gives the rooms an appearance of space and coolness that is very refreshing. Cush- ions are covered with cool linen slips. A shady little porch off the kitchen has. been screened, and here we eat many of our meals; we find this pleas- ant, and a great saving of work. The dining-room is very severely dealt with, and all superfluous dishes and silver put away. All this greatly simplifies the housekeeping during the warm tedious months when the house- wife needs all her strength, a. m. a.
ONE bright woman improvised an antique "tip-top" table out of two table leaves and an ordinary ob- long stand. Putting the stand in the desired position at the side of her dining-room, she placed one leaf across the top, and set the other up at right
angles on top of it, leaning it against the wall. As they were all of black walnut, the effect, when covered with pretty doilies and pieces of copper, was that of the much-desired but hard-to- find old colonial table in such demand.
The man of the family had a bad cut near the knuckle of his finger, where it seemed impossible to keep it covered. A druggist, noticing his predicament, asked to do it up for him. After wet- ting the finger all about the cut with collodion, he laid a very thin layer of absorbent cotton over it; hardly more than a film of cotton was used. This he again wet thoroughly with the collodion, making it adhere closely to the finger in all places. The result was a pliable, water-tight dressing that stayed on until pulled off, and we have found it equally successful since.
Plant scarlet poppies and blue and white bachelor's buttons now for your Fourth of July centerpieces. Another good combination is scarlet poppies, love-in-the-mist, and gypsophilla, or baby's breath. Both groups make beautiful red, white and blue bouquets.
It is a difficult thing to make a good button-hole in thin material. Fine white embroidery cotton makes a very handsome button-hole in such ma- terial and will be found to be much easier to work with than thread, and it is quite as durable.
Why do we all not make more un- der-clothes of the white cotton crape and avoid all that ironing in warm weather?
An ingenious woman darns all of her stockings over shoe-trees. She says that as the stockings are held in the shape in which they are worn, the darns are more comfortable to wear, as they conform to the shape of the foot.
J. F. G.
52
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
IF you are pulling threads in linens, or any goods where the threads are hard to get hold of, rub a bar of soap (Ivory I always use) over the threads, and you will find that they slip easily.
M. B.
A Suggestion to Guests
FEW are the households in which the weekly washings do not form a sore point. For the housewife who can get this necessary work done well, regularly, economically and without friction is the blessed exception now- a-days.
Hence the addition of a guest's clothes, though the pieces be reason- ably few^ in number, is often a sort of a last straw — enough to precipi- tate a storm in the kitchen or laundry, to the distraction of the hostess, who is anxious to make her guest comfortable and equally anxious to keep the peace with her help, especially at this time.
So it is a wise guest who pleasantly but firmly declines to add his or her clothes to the family washings, quietly calling in the laundry wagon, or, if that be impossible, putting the gar- ments into a small bag (brought for the purpose) and giving them to the washerwoman as a separate bit of w^ork, making a private agreement as to the price. The expense is but httle — ■ nothing at all to be compared with the value of being an agreeable guest, welcome in the kitchen as well as in the parlor. If one dare not or cannot afford to "tip" the help in the house, the least she can do is to lessen their burden in some such way as this. Where the hostess does her own work, this bit of thoughtfulness is all the more necessary.
Even though the hostess be a near relative she will appreciate the kindl}' independence and its motive, and the visitor may prolong her stay without feeling that the household wheels need extra oil on her account. l. m. c.
Spring Diet
WITH the approach of spring and a warm season, it is, sa^'s Dr. Olsen in Good Health, desirable to modify the diet somew^hat, avoiding the heavier and more concentrated foods, and taking more fruit and salads of various kinds. It is a fact that the require- ments of the body vary to a certain extent according to the weather. Dur- ing the hot summer season but a com- paratively small amount of food is re- quired for the purpose of maintaining the normal bodily temperature. In the coldest weather of T\anter the re- verse is the case, and then one requires ample nutrition, and it is proper to eat more heartily. But if the hearty eating is continued well into springtime, when the temperature gets higher and higher, it would produce a surfeiting of the body which would be extremely undesirable and might produce un- pleasant disturbances.
Singing Kettles
It is said that the Japanese, so in- genious in making curious and fasci- nating devices of every kind, manu- facture singing teakettles. An iron kettle, otherwise quite ordinary, has the almost lifelike characteristic of bursting into song when the water boils.
The sounds, they say, are produced by steam bubbles escaping from sheets of iron fastened across the kettle near the bottom. Skill is required not only in making them, but in regulating the fire under them. These curious kettles have been in use many years.
To Distinguish Old Milk from Fresh When both are kept bottled in the refrigerator, turn the pasteboard bottle- top upside down in the bottle contain- ing left-over milk, and keep it right side up in the bottle con tain g fresh milk. G. w. D.
Items for this department should bear name and ad dress of writer in full. — Ediior.
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES
49
letin from the United States Depart- ment of Agriculture we are told that grape juice can be safely vSterilized at from 165° Fahr. to 176° Fahr., and that at this temperature the flavor is hardly changed, while it does change at a temperature above 200° Fahr.
The following method of preparing grape juice gives satisfactory results: Crush the ripe grapes. Pour them into a cloth bag and extract the juice by twisting the bag. Heat the juice in a double boiler or stone jar in a pan of water until it steams. Pour the juice into an enameled vessel to settle for twenty-four hours. Drain it carefully from the sediment and run it through a cone-shaped filter made from woolen cloth. Then proceed as you would to can any fruit in a wash boiler. Put a false bottom in the boiler and set the jars or bottles, filled to one inch of the top, in the boiler. Fill in water within an inch of the top of the jars or bottles and heat until the juice is about to simmer. Take out and seal or cork immediately. Cotton batting tied over corks will prevent mold germs entering. Of course the cans or bottles must be running over full when sealed.
* E. B.
HERE is a recipe for a bread pud- ding which differs a little from the mock Indian pudding given in the Cooking-School Magazine for Feb- ruary, 1905, and really deceived a man who is very fond of baked Indian pud- ding into the belief that his favorite dessert was before him. The recipe is original, but was suggested by your own.
One cup of dry bread crumbs; one quart of milk; one-half a cup of mo- lasses; one-third a cup of granulated sugar; one teaspoonful of cinnamon; one-half a teaspoonful of ginger; one- half a teaspoonful of salt; tw^o table- spoonfuls of butter; one egg.
Reserve one cup of milk; scald the remainder and pour over the dry bread
crumbs. Add the molasses, then the sugar into which you have stirred the spices and salt, then add the butter, cut into tiny bits, and, lastly, the egg, beaten Hght. Bake in a moderate oven about one hour; pour over it the remaining cup of milk and bake one and one-half hours longer. A half cup of raisins may be added if desired. The bread crumbs in this case contained a large proportion of entire wheat crusts, w^hich may possibly have given the pudding its especial excellence.
Regarding varying the monotony of the staples, like bread and potatoes, too much cannot be said. My three grow- ing boys eat quantities of bread and butter, and I find that a change from white bread, which is our staple bread, to entire wheat or oatmeal bread (they do not enjoy rye bread) seems to them a great addition to our usual bill of fare. Coffee cake makes a Sunday morning breakfast a feast; any change, in fact, in the bread seems to make a more elaborate menu. The same en- thusiasm prevails, if we change oc- casionally from plain boiled or mashed potatoes to potatoes Hongroise, French fried, scalloped or hashed brown.
E. C. R.
IT is an excellent plan to underscore with ink the various ingredients in any recipe. This makes it possible for one to see at a glance what articles are needed, and frequently prevents one from omitting something to which the success of the dish is due.
Any dish in which dough has been prepared should be rinsed with cold water before being washed, as hot water tends to cook the dough, making it more difficult to remove. Fpr the same reason run the egg beater a second or so in cold water before putting it into the hot.
Last June we saw a unique decoration of a fireplace at a wedding. Ferns
50
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
were planted in a low box that just fitted on the grate. The box was entirely covered with dark green crepe paper so, of course, it could hardly be seen. To make the illusion still pret- tier, a large weather-beaten log was placed in front of the box. The ferns did so well that they formed a pretty spot in the room until cold weather came and the grate had to be used.
The refrigerator was so filled up that there was no place for the water- melon I wanted to ice. I reasoned that "where there is a will there is a way," and eventually found it in a two quart Mason jar. I cut the melon into long, narrow slices that could be packed into the jar, and removed all the seeds before filling the can. After being chilled in the top of the refrigera- tor, I served the melon, cut into cubes. Now my family does not want it in any other way.
A small portable gas oven saves a great deal of fuel. It takes less gas to run it than the large ovens require and can be used on the coal range as well as the gas. One woman I know puts two large sad-irons on top of this small oven to give it greater stability and keep it from jarring too easily, which is the principal cause of failures in baking with these contrivances. By putting anything to be baked on the grate near the top of the oven a kettle, whose contents have been brought to a boil, can be set upon the bottom and so one blaze made to do the work of two.
C. F.
Ironing Help
DU-RING the warm months es- pecially, and at other times when I consider it advisable, I do not iron such articles as kitchen towels, tea towels, every-day bath-room towels and washcloths. AVhen they are nearly but not quite dry, I take them from
the line, fold them evenly, press with the hands, and hang on the clothes- horse to dry. They do not look at all bad when folded neatly away or when they come to be used, and much hard, warm work has been dispensed with, besides a saving of fuel. It is a com- fort now to learn that science ordains that towels are better unironed, as their absorbent power is greater when the fibers are not pressed hard and fiat.
Getting Rid of Flies
We do not use screens in our upper windows, yet are never troubled with flies, and only occasionally by a mosquito. For an hour each morning the windows and shutters are opened wide to air and sun, but very early the rooms are put in order; this means that all dust is carefully removed, and that all crockery is dry and perfectly clean. Then the blinds are closed, and the curtains partially drawn, leaving the room dark and cool and sweet — not at all attractive to flies. On re- tiring, we leave the shutters closed, and use candles for light, because they give sufficient light without diffusing much heat or attracting insects. I have never been troubled with moths in rooms so treated. I keep all the house rather dark during intense heat, as it is cool and refreshing after the hot glare outside, but several times each week I let in plenty of sunshine to dis- pel any possible dampness, and there is an abundance of fresh air at all times.
Cooperation
I had long wanted a vacimm cleaner, but two important reasons had de- terred me from getting one — the ex- pense, and the knowledge that in our little town I should be continually called upon to lend it, or give offence bv a refusal. But one day, while talking with an intimate friend, we decided to get one together. This solved the fi- nancial problem for each of us, as the divided expense was not great. We
QUERIES AND ANSWERS
DO
may be spread upon the cake and stay in place. Flavor with half a tea- spoonful of vanilla extract. If too much sugar be added, a spoonful or two of boiling water is the remedy.
Ste^imed Orange Pudding
\ a cup of sugar Grated rind and juice of half an orange
1 tablespoonful of lemon juice
2 tablespoon fuls of chopped almonds
Pour the milk over the crumbs and
butter and let stand an hour. Beat the
eggs; add the sugar and beat again;
add fruit juice and almonds and mix
all together. Steam one hour. Serve
with hard sauce.
a cup of scalded
milk a cup of grated
bread crumbs
1 tablespoonful
butter
2 eeiis
of
Pour the milk over the crumbs ; when cool add the suet mixed with the fruit, sugar and spices, then the yolks of eggs, and, lastly, the whites of eggs, beaten dry. Steam four hours. Serve with hard or wine sauce.
Query 1610. Bread."
Recipe for Baked Brown
Baked Brown Bread
^ a cup of molasses h a cup of brown sugar
1 cup of buttermilk or
sour milk
2 tablespoonfuls of
melted butter
1 egg
1 teaspoonful of soda
J a teaspoonful of
salt 1 cvip of white flour 3 cups of graham flour
Bake from three-fourths to a full hour in a moderate heat.
Steamed Prune Pudding
^ a cup of sugar 1 egg, beaten light ^ a cup of prune puree I a teaspoonful of salt I a cup of milk
^ a cup of stale bread
crumbs I a cup of flour
1 level teaspoonful of
baking powder ^ a cup of fine-chop- ped suet i
Mix together the crumbs. Hour and baking powder, sviet and sugar. To the beaten egg add the puree, salt and milk. Stir the liquid into the dry in- gredients. Steam two hours in a buttered, tight-closed mold. An empt" baking powder box makes a good mc Leave plenty of room for the pudf to swell. Serve with hard or li sauce. Other fruit place of the prunes.
Steamed Rais...
2 cups of sifted bread 4 tablespoonf
crumbs , melted bi
1 egg 2 cups of mi]
^ a cup of molasses ' ^ a teaspoonf
1 cup of rais
Steam three hours.
Query 1611. — "Recipe for ]\Iint Jelly."
Mint Jelly
Let one-fourth a package of gelatine stand for some time in cold wntpt- i-r^ cover. Boil one -^ sugar and " six mi*- tine
Plum Pudding
2 cups of bread crumbs 1 cup of scalded milk I a cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of salt 4 yolks of eggs 1 teaspoonful of cin- namon
J a teaspoor of clo mace ^ a poimd c ^ a pound c ^ a poimd c 4 whites of
56
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
of creme-de-menthe cordial. Heat the sugar in the edge of the oven, leaving the door open that the sugar may not bum. Heat the apple juice to the boiling point as quickly as possible, and let boil rapidly, uncovered, ten or fifteen minutes, skimming as needed, then add the hot sugar; let boil again and, when a little jellies on a cold saucer, remove from the fire, stir in the cordial and green color-paste or liquid, to secure the shade of green desired, then turn into glasses.
Query 1612. lasses Cake."
"Recipe for Soft Mo-
Rochester Gingerbread
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream ; gradually beat in half a cup of sugar and one cup of molasses. Add two eggs, beaten very light, one cup of thick, sour milk and three cups of sifted flour, sifted again with one tea- spoonful and a half of soda, one tea- spoonful of ginger and one teaspoonful of cinnamon. Bake in a large shallow pan or in two brick-loaf pans.
r Strawberry
Query 1614. — " Recipes for Pigs in Blan- kets and Rasped Rolls."
Pigs in Blankets
Season choice large oysters with salt and pepper and wrap each seasoned oyster in a thin slice of fat bacon. Fasten the bacon in place with a tiny wooden toothpick, taking care not to pierce the oyster. Cook in a hot omelet pan just long enough to crisp the bacon.
Rasped Rolls
Scald two cups of milk and, when cooled to a lukewarm temperature, add half a cup of water in which a yeast cake has been dissolved, and stir in about three cups of sifted flour. Beat the mixture until very smooth, then cover and let stand in a tempera- ture of about 70° Fahr. until light and puffy; now add one teaspoonful of salt and one-third a cup of melted, butter or other shortening, and three or four cups of sifted flour, and stir these to a dough. Knead the dough about fifteen minutes, or until smooth and elastic, then cover and set aside to become doubled in bulk. Shape into small ovals of about two ounces each, and set in a baking pan some distance apart, that they may not touch each other in baking. When light bake about 'wenty-five minutes. When baked,
dth a lemon grater remove the thin,
ossy crust that completely covers
roll, and so leave a light brown,
ped exterior. Where large quanti-
3S of these rolls are prepared, a ma- chine is used for this purpose. A little nore time is required in using a lemon
'ater, but the result is the same.
Query 1615. — "Recipes for Small Cakes or Crackers that require no eggs. Also for the Coffee Cake sold in German Bakeries."
Oatmeal Cookies
1^ cups of flour 3 level tablespoonfuls of baking powder I a cup of sugar ^ a cup of butter
i a teaspoonful of salt Cold water to mix to
dough Currants if desired
THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully ^answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answer by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, editor, Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass.
Query 1606. — "Why are Crullers often filled with holes, and what makes them tough?"
Toughness, etc. of Crullers
Toughness and over-porosity are not often found in the same crullers. Too large a proportion of leavening in- gredient would occasion porosity. Too much flour or milk containing no butter fat (skimmed milk) would occasion toughness. In the absence of a special recipe we are uncertain as to the exact character of the crullers referred to. In the ordinary cruller or doughnut, served at the end of breakfast, we have found that shortening in the form of yolks- of eggs or the creamy milk from the top of the milk bottle gives better results than butter or other shorten- ing. In small, fancy crullers, where no milk or similar liquid is called for, melted butter gives good results. The first of the following recipes, published in the December, 1909, number of the magazine, gives a good breakfast cruller. If more convenient, use two whole eggs and two extra yolks and a little less of the cream, adding a corresponding quantity of skimmed milk. The recipe designated crullers is from "Cooking for Two."
Christmas Doughnuts Sift together five cups of sifted flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one level tea-
spoonful of soda, two slightly rounding teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and half a teaspoonful of ground mace. Beat three eggs; add a cup of sugar, measured generously, three-fourths a cup of cream, poured from the top of a quart bottle or can of milk, and a scant fourth a cup of skimmed milk; mix together thoroughly, then turn into the dry ingredients and mix the two together. Take a small portion upon a floured board, knead slightly, using no more flour than is necessary, cut into rings and fry in hot fat; drain on soft paper and roll in sifted powdered sugar. .
Crullers
1 white of egg, beaten
dry X a teaspoonful, each,
of mace and salt About 1 cup of flour
53
1 yolk of egg, beaten
light X a cup of granulated
sugar 1 tablespoonful of
melted butter
Beat the sugar into the beaten 3^olk ; beat in the butter, fold in the white and then beat in the flour sifted with the salt and mace. Add more flour if needed. The dough must be stiff enough to roll into a sheet about one- third an inch thick. Cut into rectangu- lar pieces (two by three inches) , make four parallel slits in each equally dis- tant from each other and the edges of the dough on all sides. Carefully lift
54
THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE
up the second and fourth strips, to meet in the center, and cook in hot fat to a golden brown. Drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar.
Query 1G08. Cake."
"Recipe for Devil's Food
Query 1G07. — "Menu for a Fish Dinner to be served at the seashore, at a cost of $1.00. Woukl also like to know the quantities of meat, coffee, tea, butter, etc., needed to serve twenty people each day."
Menu for Fish Dinner
Clam Broth Broiled Blue Fish Mashed Potatoes. Green Peas Yeast Rolls Lobster Salad Pineapple Sherbet Coffee
II
Clam Chowder
Bluefish, Stuffed and Baked
Scalloped Potatoes. Cucumbers
Summer Squash
Lobster Salad
Sliced Pineapple
Coffee
III
Clam Broth
Broiled Live Lobster
Cucumbers, French Dressing
Baking Powder Biscuit
Bluefish, Stuffed and Baked
Hollandaise Sauce
Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Onions
Rhubarb or Berry Pie
Cream Cheese
Coffee
Quantities of Food-Stuffs Needed per Day for Twenty People
If the coffee be of good strength, from a pound to a pound and a quarter will be needed for each meal at which it is to be served. Half a pound of tea will be required for each meal. One pound and a quarter of butter will suffice for breakfast, the same quantit}^ will be needed at supper and about a pound at dinner. This is for the table, and. does not include the butter for cooking. Half a pound of raw meat is usually allowed for each individual. A chicken three pounds and one-half in weight, when roasted, is allowed for each four people. A four-pound chicken, boiled or fricasseed will serve six people.
Devil's Food Cake
1 cup of light brown sugar
\ a pound of choco- late
^ a cup of milk
1 QgS
^ a cup of butter 1 cup of granulated sugar
A a cup of milk
2^ cups of sifted pas- try flour
3 level teaspoonfuls of baking powder
2 eggs, beaten sepa- rately
1 tablespoonful of warm water
Melt the chocolate, add the sugar and the milk and cook to a smooth paste ; then add the egg, beaten without separating the white and yolk, and set aside to cool. Beat the butter to a cream; gradually beat in the sugar, the yolks of eggs, and, alternately, the milk and flour, sifted with the baking powder; then add the whites of eggs, beaten dry, the cold chocolate mixture and the warm water. Bake in two layers twenty-five or thirty minutes. Put the layers together and cover the outside with boiled icing.
Query 1609. — "Recipes for inexpensive Chocolate Loaf Cake baked in pan two to three inches deep and covered with white icing, also for Steamed Puddings, using bread crumbs."
Moist Chocolate Cake
If
teaspoonfuls of
baking powder a teaspoonful of
cinnamon a teaspoonful of
mace a teaspoonful of cloves Whites of 2 eggs,
beaten dry
^ a cup of butter I a cup of sugar Yolks of 2 eggs ^ a cup of sugar ^ a cup of hot mashed
potato 1 ounce of chocolate,
melted J a cup of sweet milk 1 cup of sifted flour
Cream the butter and beat in the first half cup of sugar ; beat the yolks of eggs and beat in the second half cup of sugar and beat the two mixtures together; add the potato and chocolate and finish in the usual manner.
Confectioners' Frosting Boil one-fourth a cup, each, of granu- lated sugar and boiling water about four minutes, then stir in sifted con- fectioners' sugar to make a paste that
Dishes for Automobile and Picnic Luncheons
I.
Terrine-of-Chicken and Ham
Cold Jellied Chicken Pie
Cold Jellied Tongue
Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin
Cold Chicken-and-Ham Rissoles
Boned Loin of Lamb, Roasted, Cooled, Sliced Thin
Slices of Cold Roast Lamb in Mint Jelly
Cold Broiled Lamb Chops, Paper Frills on Bones
Cold Creamed Chicken in Puff Cases
Salmon-and-Green Pea Salad
Potato-and-Egg Salad Stringless Bean-and-Egg Salad Deviled Ham Sandwiches Cheese-and-Pecan Xut Sandwiches Bacon Sandwiches Noisette Sandwiches Pimento-and-Cream Cheese Sandwiches Corned Beef-and-Mustard Sandwiches Peanut Butter-and-Olive Sandwiches Lady Finger Rolls Parker House Rolls Rye Biscuit Apple Turnovers. Banbury Tarts. Jelly Tarts Grape-fruit Marmalade. Currant Jelly Gherkins. Melon Mangoes
Cold Coffee. Hot Coffee
Grape Juice. Pineappleade
Lemonade
The Boston Cooking-School Magazine
Vol. XV
August-September, 19 io
Xo.
Quaint Customs and Toothsome Damties
By Frances R. Sterrett
POPULAR hotels and big cafes are much the same the world over, whether you find them in Xew York, Paris, Cairo or Calcutta. There is the same staff of uniformed, expectant servants, the same glitter- ing decorations and appointments, the orchestra plays the same selections, and the throng of well-dressed guests looks as though it might have been transported bodily from one to the other. Love of variety sends the traveler, away from all this glare and glitter, to some quaint resort that had its group of patrons when the United States was young, and which still retains many of the customs that were features of the common life a century or more ago, and that now are so unusual that they prove strong magnets for the tourist.
Nearly everybody who goes to Lon- don finds his way, sooner or later, to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in Wine (Office Court. Tucked away, as it is, just off of Fleet Street, it presents any- thing but a pretentious appearance and more than one party